Magpul MS3. Convertible from single point to 2 point. Easy to adjust.
Bender's Big AR-15 & Semi Auto Shilling Thread
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Last: 3 yr ago by robstrom
I personally use one-point slings that have a little bungee in the backstrap. Just easier for me and my shoulders and easier to dismount the weapon by unclipping versus lifting the weapon above and around my head.reveille23 said:
new to the AR world. First build is complete, shoots great at the range and now I'm excited to take it into the field this is a hunting rig, for running after hogs mostly, possibly yotes.
But I need suggestion for a sling. Not sure whether to go with a one point style or a more conventional hunting carry strap. What does the OB suggest?
Vickers 2 point is my go to sling, have a couple of them....one QD, one regular. Good quality, adjustable....everything you need, nothing you don't.
I really hate one point slings.
I really hate one point slings.
This. One points are pretty miserable if you do any climbing/bending or need to stow the rifle. I can't stand having a dangling rifle or one that won't stay putBenderRodriguez said:
Vickers 2 point is my go to sling, have a couple of them....one QD, one regular. Good quality, adjustable....everything you need, nothing you don't.
I really hate one point slings.
Thanks for the input gentlemen.
As with all things AR, there are so many options to consider. Sounds like I need to get my hands on a few 2-point slings to see what I like.
Then to decide on mounting options.
As with all things AR, there are so many options to consider. Sounds like I need to get my hands on a few 2-point slings to see what I like.
Then to decide on mounting options.
reveille23 said:
Then to decide on mounting options.
My preferred stocks (B5 Sopmod, MFT Minimalist) and rails (ALG, Geissele) come with QD sockets, which makes my options easy: I can use one Vickers 2 point with QD on any gun I own that has the rails/stocks I like to put on all of my guns anyway.
I posted this picture a few pages back but since it's relevant to slings thought I would post again..
The 20" gun on top is using blue force gear parts to attach a regular Vickers two point sling to the piccatiny rail and the fixed stock.
The 16" gun has furniture (B5 stockmod stock, ALG rail) that has Quick Detach points built in, so its sling is the same Vickers two point but with QD hardware.
Basically, the point is no matter what furniture/set up you choose it's easy to attach the Vickers sling to it with the right hardware.
The 20" gun on top is using blue force gear parts to attach a regular Vickers two point sling to the piccatiny rail and the fixed stock.
The 16" gun has furniture (B5 stockmod stock, ALG rail) that has Quick Detach points built in, so its sling is the same Vickers two point but with QD hardware.
Basically, the point is no matter what furniture/set up you choose it's easy to attach the Vickers sling to it with the right hardware.
Primary Arms is advertising a post-tax day sale for an AR-15 stripped Lower from Anderson manufacturing for 34.99 today.
That's dirt cheap.
Edit for link...
http://www.primaryarms.com/anderson-manufacturing-ar-15-stripped-lower-receiver-ar-15-a3
That's dirt cheap.
Edit for link...
http://www.primaryarms.com/anderson-manufacturing-ar-15-stripped-lower-receiver-ar-15-a3
gee, thanks...BreNayPop said:
Primary Arms is advertising a post-tax day sale for an AR-15 stripped Lower from Anderson manufacturing for 34.99 today.
That's dirt cheap.
going in for a couple
PSA running strike fires for $149.99 after discount. I missed out on the SPARC so may have to get one.
which one is preferred? or, what are the major differences?
Thanks for the heads up, that will work well for my pistol I want to build
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Simply a size difference. Great units for the price. Sparc is their small unit and the Strikefire is the fullsize. Only thing I don't like about the vortex units is the view is occluded outside of the scope. The controls stick out a lot and annoy me. Otherwise, great optics.HvilleAggie said:
which one is preferred? or, what are the major differences?
After looking around some last night I really like that Vickers sling you suggested.
Why the vast difference in attachment location on both weapons? Does one work better than the other, or are they set-up for specific roles? I've got a full length M-lock on my handgaurd so can attach a QD mount at any portion, guess I can move it around and see what suites me best
Why the vast difference in attachment location on both weapons? Does one work better than the other, or are they set-up for specific roles? I've got a full length M-lock on my handgaurd so can attach a QD mount at any portion, guess I can move it around and see what suites me best
Because that's where the built in QD mounts are on the short gun.
Either way works, though I"ll give a slight nod to the longer set up for how tight I can get the sling while carrying the gun with my hands free. Makes rifle retention while moving/climbing/whatever easier. But if that isn't a primary consideration, both work fine.
Either way works, though I"ll give a slight nod to the longer set up for how tight I can get the sling while carrying the gun with my hands free. Makes rifle retention while moving/climbing/whatever easier. But if that isn't a primary consideration, both work fine.
This is a video narrated by Larry Vickers (guy who "invented" the Vickers sling) explaining the different rear attachment points. IIRC, he has another where he talks about the front points. The technique he goes over in the video is the same one he teaches in his classes and works well.reveille23 said:
After looking around some last night I really like that Vickers sling you suggested.
Why the vast difference in attachment location on both weapons? Does one work better than the other, or are they set-up for specific roles? I've got a full length M-lock on my handgaurd so can attach a QD mount at any portion, guess I can move it around and see what suites me best
Thanks!
Single-point slings only have one purpose, to keep the weapon from hitting the ground when you need to take your hands off of it.
That's about the extent of their usefulness. They are easier to manage if you are constantly getting into and out of vehicles...you Will unsling getting in, clip it back on getting out. But even then you will have your hands on the weapon all the time.
If you plan to move any more than a few steps with no hands controling the weapon, then a single point is not for you.
That's about the extent of their usefulness. They are easier to manage if you are constantly getting into and out of vehicles...you Will unsling getting in, clip it back on getting out. But even then you will have your hands on the weapon all the time.
If you plan to move any more than a few steps with no hands controling the weapon, then a single point is not for you.
Newbie needing some help - Back in 2014 I bought an extreme budget build AR15 consisting of the following parts:
AR Upper - PSA CHF 16'' 5.56mm 1:7 Mid-length A2 Profile - w/ BCG & Charging Handle
AR Lower - PSA AR-15 Complete Blem Lower Magpul MOE Edition - Black, No Magazine
Now that the AR craze has died down. I'd like to upgrade it and make it more functional with a free float hand guard. Maybe even make it a little more flashy than just plain old black. Would I be better off selling this build and starting a new one from scratch or could I start swapping out parts upgrading as money allows? If swapping out parts, what should I change first and do you have any recommendations? Gun will mainly be used at range, plinking, and hog hunting. Thanks!
AR Upper - PSA CHF 16'' 5.56mm 1:7 Mid-length A2 Profile - w/ BCG & Charging Handle
AR Lower - PSA AR-15 Complete Blem Lower Magpul MOE Edition - Black, No Magazine
Now that the AR craze has died down. I'd like to upgrade it and make it more functional with a free float hand guard. Maybe even make it a little more flashy than just plain old black. Would I be better off selling this build and starting a new one from scratch or could I start swapping out parts upgrading as money allows? If swapping out parts, what should I change first and do you have any recommendations? Gun will mainly be used at range, plinking, and hog hunting. Thanks!
Keep the gun you have, start building on a stripped lower (cheap right now) and add parts as you can.
Selling right now makes zero sense.
Plus, 2 rifles.
Edit, and you can buy free floated complete uppers cheap right now too.
Selling right now makes zero sense.
Plus, 2 rifles.
Edit, and you can buy free floated complete uppers cheap right now too.
For example, i listed a 35 dollar sttipped lower above.
Add in this upper with bcg and charging handle for 340:
http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-18-rifle-length-223-wylde-1-7-nitride-15-lightweight-m-lok-upper-with-bcg-ch-516445155.html
And you are left looking for a lower parts kit (29 bucks if you watch for deals), and whatever buttstock/pistol grip/upper furniture in colors you want for under 500 bucks total.
Add in this upper with bcg and charging handle for 340:
http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-18-rifle-length-223-wylde-1-7-nitride-15-lightweight-m-lok-upper-with-bcg-ch-516445155.html
And you are left looking for a lower parts kit (29 bucks if you watch for deals), and whatever buttstock/pistol grip/upper furniture in colors you want for under 500 bucks total.
And if you are near houston, ask eyeguy and he will set you up with something of very good quality at a very nice price that meets your needs...
Since its been asked repeatedly in this thread.
You don't have to use all the tools they do (I've never once needed a "forearm removal tool", for example), but watch the video and you'll get a good idea of the skills and tools you need to make the swap.
ETA: Didn't realize they were putting an old school tube and then front sight back on the gun in that video. ha. Only difference would be installing a low profile gas block instead of the front sight though.
Either way, you'll need tools similar to what you'd need to assemble an AR upper in the first place. Vice, punches, barrel wrench etc.
You don't have to use all the tools they do (I've never once needed a "forearm removal tool", for example), but watch the video and you'll get a good idea of the skills and tools you need to make the swap.
ETA: Didn't realize they were putting an old school tube and then front sight back on the gun in that video. ha. Only difference would be installing a low profile gas block instead of the front sight though.
Either way, you'll need tools similar to what you'd need to assemble an AR upper in the first place. Vice, punches, barrel wrench etc.
Thanks for taking the time to write a detailed response. It looks like the stripped lower you mentioned was removed when you editted your post. Would you mind re-linking it? Not sure I can get away with having two with the wife but I suppose that if it's a different color and setup she may think I've had it in the safe all along.
35 dollar stripped lower...
http://www.primaryarms.com/anderson-manufacturing-ar-15-stripped-lower-receiver-ar-15-a3
This is the only part that needs to go thru an FFL, the rest can be shipped directly to you.
Oh, and consider caliber changes as well... eyeguy had a GREAT sub $1000 grendel free float setup that is amazing of you were interested in that.
Buy that now and watch for good prices on an upper soon... those are the 2 things that will jump in price majorly when the next tragedy or dem election happen
http://www.primaryarms.com/anderson-manufacturing-ar-15-stripped-lower-receiver-ar-15-a3
This is the only part that needs to go thru an FFL, the rest can be shipped directly to you.
Oh, and consider caliber changes as well... eyeguy had a GREAT sub $1000 grendel free float setup that is amazing of you were interested in that.
Buy that now and watch for good prices on an upper soon... those are the 2 things that will jump in price majorly when the next tragedy or dem election happen
damn.
PSA doing 3 stripped lowers and a 9mm shield for 324.99 after the 75 dollar rebate on shields
PSA doing 3 stripped lowers and a 9mm shield for 324.99 after the 75 dollar rebate on shields
I got in on that earlier today. Too good to pass up.
Thanks will do. Is there any difference between this stripped lower and the ones made by Aero Precision? Just trying to understand price differences.
CharlieBrown17 said:
damn.
PSA doing 3 stripped lowers and a 9mm shield for 324.99 after the 75 dollar rebate on shields
lol
The supply glut is yuuuuuuge.
On the lower end it definitely is. However, it seems to be almost the polar opposite on the higher end AR products.
There really is no difference in lower other than brand/name recognition/stamping. Find one you like (aero/Anderson/Spikes are usually priced nicely or choose a 'name' like Bravo Company (BCM)/Larue/Daniel Defense) and run with it.
But for 35 dollars, buy 3 or buy the shield deal from PSA that CharlieBrown17 just listed (it's a shield and 3 free stripped lowers) and keep them for later adding parts as can be afforded.
But for 35 dollars, buy 3 or buy the shield deal from PSA that CharlieBrown17 just listed (it's a shield and 3 free stripped lowers) and keep them for later adding parts as can be afforded.
For sure, Larue/BCM/Dan Defense/Colt seem to be holding their value... but even Larue sold a crap ton of cheaper triggers last week.DatTallArchitect said:
On the lower end it definitely is. However, it seems to be almost the polar opposite on the higher end AR products.
It'll be interesting if Repubs hold the house/senate/WH for 4 more years what that will do to these bigger guys.
Yeah I'm really waiting for a multi stripped lower sale like that. Be nice to have a few to leave in the back of the safe.
Same here, although I may drive down to Primary Arms and pick up a few for $35/ea.CharlieBrown17 said:
Yeah I'm really waiting for a multi stripped lower sale like that. Be nice to have a few to leave in the back of the safe.
BreNayPop said:
There really is no difference in lower other than brand/name recognition/stamping.
This is not a true statement.
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