I've used the ADM quick detach mount on my Primary Arms ACSS to hit steels at 400 yards after it being taken on and off.ttha_aggie_09 said:
Are any of the quick disconnect mounts worth a ***** I mean will they really hold zero if you pull it off and replace with a red dot and then put a scope back on?
Bender's Big AR-15 & Semi Auto Shilling Thread
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American Defense and larue are the only two I really trust. I have an american defense coming in for my Cheytac. I can't even sell Larue and still give them a great recommendation for this use. So, I'm using one and say someone else's that I can't sell is also great. Both are basically the best endorsements I can give, I think.ttha_aggie_09 said:
Are any of the quick disconnect mounts worth a ***** I mean will they really hold zero if you pull it off and replace with a red dot and then put a scope back on?
Food for thought on investing in a suppressor (if you intend on being part of a squad conducting fire and movement 
).
http://www.military.com/daily-news/2016/11/22/corps-put-silencers-whole-infantry-battalion.html
).http://www.military.com/daily-news/2016/11/22/corps-put-silencers-whole-infantry-battalion.html
Quote:
In a series of experiments this year, units from 2nd Marine Division will be silencing every element of an infantry battalion -- from M4 rifles to .50 caliber machine guns.
...
"What we've found so far is it revolutionizes the way we fight," Love told Military.com. "It used to be a squad would be dispersed out over maybe 100 yards, so the squad leader couldn't really communicate with the members at the far end because of all the noise of the weapons. Now they can actually just communicate, and be able to command and control and effectively direct those fires."
CharlieBrown17 said:
Burris PEPR for scope mount
Any standard flip up should work if it's a standard height front post
Is this a yeti kind of thing? Both are made in China.
Green Blob Outdoors Tactical 1 inch Black Cantilever https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RQ28FS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a1AnybQ8MR9NV
Giving myself an AR10 for Christmas. I'm struggling internally over how to go with optics. I like the idea of going with a red dot for quick acquisition and rapid firing (pigs) or a scope to take advantage of the range of the gun (deer).
Anybody have any personal recommendations either way or a suggested compromise between the two?
TIA.
Anybody have any personal recommendations either way or a suggested compromise between the two?
TIA.
Bazooka Joe said:
Giving myself an AR10 for Christmas. I'm struggling internally over how to go with optics. I like the idea of going with a red dot for quick acquisition and rapid firing (pigs) or a scope to take advantage of the range of the gun (deer).
Anybody have any personal recommendations either way or a suggested compromise between the two?
TIA.
Three options:
A 1-6 variable would let you use one scope for both quicker shots and higher magnification.
A scope, red dot and quality quick throw mounts for both would allow you to switch between the two depending on what kind of shooting you're doing.
The other, heavier route would be either irons or a red dot offset at 45 so you could use both without swapping optics or trying to use the 1x on a scope, like so:
GeeBee said:CharlieBrown17 said:
Burris PEPR for scope mount
Any standard flip up should work if it's a standard height front post
Is this a yeti kind of thing? Both are made in China.
Green Blob Outdoors Tactical 1 inch Black Cantilever https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RQ28FS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a1AnybQ8MR9NV
Feel free to buy that if you want.
I have no desire to buy knockoff parts from some no name company on Amazon for any of my guns.
They sure as hell look like the same mount to me. The Burris mounts are probably made in the same plant...they just box them different when the come off the assembly line. The chinese company making these for burris probably has a contract to build these for "xyz -you name it - flavor of the week on Amazon" company. burris does not own their own mfr company in China,
I think I would stick with Japanese or USA. Nikon's mounts are made in the USA and competitively priced.
And I hear you on name brand stuff, but it kind of loses its shine when the name brand stuff is the same old crap from china. When you see the exact same thing for $40 less, It looks like to me you are just paying an extra $40 dollars for a stenciled brand name on the side.
I think I would stick with Japanese or USA. Nikon's mounts are made in the USA and competitively priced.
And I hear you on name brand stuff, but it kind of loses its shine when the name brand stuff is the same old crap from china. When you see the exact same thing for $40 less, It looks like to me you are just paying an extra $40 dollars for a stenciled brand name on the side.
Aeroprecision. The SPR is ideal for an AR so the scope can be mounted to the receiver and give adequate eye relief when prone.
Their securing system is a little unconventional, but the mount is very secure and holds up to a lot of abuse. I use this mount on my 3gun SBR. As this rifle is so short, it must be dropped when changing guns. The scope as held zero for two years for me.
It only weighs about 3 oz. Most of those tactical mounts weigh over 8 oz...
Their securing system is a little unconventional, but the mount is very secure and holds up to a lot of abuse. I use this mount on my 3gun SBR. As this rifle is so short, it must be dropped when changing guns. The scope as held zero for two years for me.
It only weighs about 3 oz. Most of those tactical mounts weigh over 8 oz...
BenderRodriguez said:
Three options:
A 1-6 variable would let you use one scope for both quicker shots and higher magnification.
A scope, red dot and quality quick throw mounts for both would allow you to switch between the two depending on what kind of shooting you're doing.
The other, heavier route would be either irons or a red dot offset at 45 so you could use both without swapping optics or trying to use the 1x on a scope, like so:
Wow. Thanks Bender. I spent the night researching 1-6x scopes and this will be my direction. Maybe someday I'll post a pic of the finished product.
PSA has the vortex strike eagle 1-6x for less than$250. That's a steal.
Edit...out of stock.
Edit...out of stock.
I have the Primary Arms 1-6x. It's a great scope for the money, and I absolutely love the ACSS reticle.
I'm new to the AR world, and starting to build my first in 6.5 Grendel. I wanted to build for two reasons: 1) I am ant to minimize the amount of compromises as much as possible, and 2) can buy things as I can afford them.
So as I am going through the process, I have already come up with a few questions. What barrel would you recommend? I know I want a 20" free floating barrel, but don't really know beyond that. What are the pros and cons between M-LOK and KeyMod handguards? Also, what should I look for/out for in uppers?
So as I am going through the process, I have already come up with a few questions. What barrel would you recommend? I know I want a 20" free floating barrel, but don't really know beyond that. What are the pros and cons between M-LOK and KeyMod handguards? Also, what should I look for/out for in uppers?
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If you want accurate, start with a set of matched receiver. Don't have to be wilson, but something matched that will fit tight.
Barrel... if cost is no worry, I'd look at something like Shilen. If you want to go a bit less, I should be able to get a good deal on Odin, soon. That's what I just put on my Grendel.
M-Lok vs Keymod... Keymod is cheaper and has more accessories. M-Lok is newer and looks nicer and seems to be growing a bit faster. This ends up being a Ford vs Chevy debate.
Barrel... if cost is no worry, I'd look at something like Shilen. If you want to go a bit less, I should be able to get a good deal on Odin, soon. That's what I just put on my Grendel.
M-Lok vs Keymod... Keymod is cheaper and has more accessories. M-Lok is newer and looks nicer and seems to be growing a bit faster. This ends up being a Ford vs Chevy debate.
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I'll be putting a thread up hopefully tonight with mine, btw. She purty and drew her first blood yesterday morning.
I'm not worried about cost. If it takes me a few months, then so be it. I would rather take my time and do it right. That said, I don't want to spend money that I don't need to. If there is no significant difference between two products, I will probably always opt for the cheaper if the two.
TheEyeGuy said:
If you want accurate, start with a set of matched receiver. Don't have to be wilson, but something matched that will fit tight.
For clarification, you are talking about matching the upper with the barrel, correct?
No, matched lower and upper receiver. Typically from the same manufacturer.DatTallArchitect said:TheEyeGuy said:
If you want accurate, start with a set of matched receiver. Don't have to be wilson, but something matched that will fit tight.
For clarification, you are talking about matching the upper with the barrel, correct?
The Wonderer said:No, matched lower and upper receiver. Typically from the same manufacturer.DatTallArchitect said:TheEyeGuy said:
If you want accurate, start with a set of matched receiver. Don't have to be wilson, but something matched that will fit tight.
For clarification, you are talking about matching the upper with the barrel, correct?
Is that all it means, from the same manufacturer? Or is there something additional?
they are matched together so the fit is good. here's an example:AgLA06 said:The Wonderer said:No, matched lower and upper receiver. Typically from the same manufacturer.DatTallArchitect said:TheEyeGuy said:
If you want accurate, start with a set of matched receiver. Don't have to be wilson, but something matched that will fit tight.
For clarification, you are talking about matching the upper with the barrel, correct?
Is that all it means, from the same manufacturer? Or is there something additional?
http://www.noveske.com/products/gen-iii-matched-upper-lower-set
The Wonderer said:No, matched lower and upper receiver. Typically from the same manufacturer.DatTallArchitect said:TheEyeGuy said:
If you want accurate, start with a set of matched receiver. Don't have to be wilson, but something matched that will fit tight.
For clarification, you are talking about matching the upper with the barrel, correct?
That may have just changed up my plans slightly. I had an 80% billet lower I was going to get (I have access to a good drill press). Was hoping to do as much of the work on this rifle as I possibly could.
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I get wanting to do everything on your own and you probably wouldn't be disappointed with the results but getting a matched set will most likely be better for you if accuracy is the top goal. Oh, here's my post on my new baby:
https://texags.com/forums/34/topics/2815830
https://texags.com/forums/34/topics/2815830
I appreciate the help. I guess I now have my first compromise. Definitely leaning towards the matched set, but I was looking forward to finishing out the lower.
A matched set is better for accuracy but probably the smallest gain for the $. Barrell, trigger, glass will all have a larger impact on accuracy. Spend there.
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HumbleAg04 said:
A matched set is better for accuracy but probably the smallest gain for the $. Barrell, trigger, glass will all have a larger impact on accuracy. Spend there.
Agree with this 95%. The main caveat is that one's first 80 percent lower is more likely to have looser tolerances than a set already from the factory. Now, if the op is a machinist, this may not be the case. Not trying to dissuade doing an 80% just see there being a possible pitfall. Flip side, if you know what you're doing with mill work, you can get just as good of a fit as anyone else. Op said money wasn't the issue so my advice was according to that. Also, most of my advice is based on generalities. There are always exceptions.
While I'm not a machinist, I do have access to a commercial grade drill press, as well as a CNC machine. It was my understanding that an 80% lower could be completed with the drill press and a dremel tool (along with a drill press vice and a hand full of bits).
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You definitely can use hand tools to do it, but you mentioned wanting precision. If you're good with it, you can definitely do it and if you're using a nice CNC and know how to operate it, then you are good to go, but most people that do 80% lowers won't be as precise in the fit as something that is finished for you. At the end of the day, it's not the end all be all on accuracy. As mentioned before, other things should take precedence in that regards but having a tight fit between the upper and lower will definitely enhance the build.DatTallArchitect said:
While I'm not a machinist, I do have access to a commercial grade drill press, as well as a CNC machine. It was my understanding that an 80% lower could be completed with the drill press and a dremel tool (along with a drill press vice and a hand full of bits). Y
And we're going for as accurate as possible/money is no object?DatTallArchitect said:
I'm not a machinist ... commercial grade drill press ... drill press and a dremel tool ...
Naveronski said:And we're going for as accurate as possible/money is no object?DatTallArchitect said:
I'm not a machinist ... commercial grade drill press ... drill press and a dremel tool ...
I didn't say money was no object, just that I was willing to take longer and buy the right stuff where it benefitted (I won't buy the best of everything, by any stretch of the imagination). I also said I would like to do as much of the work as possible. While not a machinist, I have certainly worked with tools for a long time, and feel fairly confident in my skills. With a jig to help ensure this process, it seemed reasonable. I will probably end up going with buying a finished lower, but a small part of my soul may die with that. It was going to be one if the few (and possibly only) time during the build that I would be doing anything more than just assembling the parts together. I appreciate/enjoy a good challenge. Before I went back to school (I went back at 27), I was a carpenter for quite a while. I enjoy working with my hands and making things.
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Then make an 80%. Let's put it this way, it probably won't make more than a 1/4 of an MOA difference, most likely much lower than that. You'll be fine.DatTallArchitect said:Naveronski said:And we're going for as accurate as possible/money is no object?DatTallArchitect said:
I'm not a machinist ... commercial grade drill press ... drill press and a dremel tool ...
I didn't say money was no object, just that I was willing to take longer and buy the right stuff where it benefitted (I won't buy the best of everything, by any stretch of the imagination). I also said I would like to do as much of the work as possible. While not a machinist, I have certainly worked with tools for a long time, and feel fairly confident in my skills. With a jig to help ensure this process, it seemed reasonable. I will probably end up going with buying a finished lower, but a small part of my soul may die with that. It was going to be one if the few (and possibly only) time during the build that I would be doing anything more than just assembling the parts together. I appreciate/enjoy a good challenge. Before I went back to school (I went back at 27), I was a carpenter for quite a while. I enjoy working with my hands and making things.
DatTallArchitect said:Naveronski said:And we're going for as accurate as possible/money is no object?DatTallArchitect said:
I'm not a machinist ... commercial grade drill press ... drill press and a dremel tool ...
I didn't say money was no object, just that I was willing to take longer and buy the right stuff where it benefitted (I won't buy the best of everything, by any stretch of the imagination). I also said I would like to do as much of the work as possible. While not a machinist, I have certainly worked with tools for a long time, and feel fairly confident in my skills. With a jig to help ensure this process, it seemed reasonable. I will probably end up going with buying a finished lower, but a small part of my soul may die with that. It was going to be one if the few (and possibly only) time during the build that I would be doing anything more than just assembling the parts together. I appreciate/enjoy a good challenge. Before I went back to school (I went back at 27), I was a carpenter for quite a while. I enjoy working with my hands and making things.
Then that's different and I misunderstood.
DatTallArchitect said:Naveronski said:And we're going for as accurate as possible/money is no object?DatTallArchitect said:
I'm not a machinist ... commercial grade drill press ... drill press and a dremel tool ...
I didn't say money was no object, just that I was willing to take longer and buy the right stuff where it benefitted (I won't buy the best of everything, by any stretch of the imagination). I also said I would like to do as much of the work as possible. While not a machinist, I have certainly worked with tools for a long time, and feel fairly confident in my skills. With a jig to help ensure this process, it seemed reasonable. I will probably end up going with buying a finished lower, but a small part of my soul may die with that. It was going to be one if the few (and possibly only) time during the build that I would be doing anything more than just assembling the parts together. I appreciate/enjoy a good challenge. Before I went back to school (I went back at 27), I was a carpenter for quite a while. I enjoy working with my hands and making things.
Why not build two lowers?
One from the matched set and one from an 80%
While I want something I can be proud of for a long, long time, I don't want to spend money frivolously. That's what is giving me pause now. It would suck to buy an 80% lower and jig, and it not work out to my satisfaction. Oh well, one thing I do tend to have is patience.
That would suck, but you can always buy a built lower if you mess up too bad. 80% lowers aren't expensive.
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