They're very tempting as well....
Bender's Big AR-15 & Semi Auto Shilling Thread
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Last: 4 yr ago by robstrom
$35 was their dealer price a few years ago, and I stocked up. They've been good lowers.The Wonderer said:Same here, although I may drive down to Primary Arms and pick up a few for $35/ea.CharlieBrown17 said:
Yeah I'm really waiting for a multi stripped lower sale like that. Be nice to have a few to leave in the back of the safe.
Please feel free to correct me. Im still learning. The thumbs down nonsubstansial answer, though, doesnt help anybody.
The majority of forgings come from the same places. Sure billet vs standard forged aluminum are different, but a "standard" AR lower is a standard lower. For example, PSA's lowers are made by Aero as are many others.Naveronski said:BreNayPop said:
There really is no difference in lower other than brand/name recognition/stamping.
This is not a true statement.
Where are they? I was trying to find it on their website.
It's a tiny bit more complicated than that but yeah, 4 main manufacturers on forged lowers. Spikes uses all four and you can actually figure out who made them due to the serial number. There are variations in the middle of everything though so do your homework. Aero does make the PSA lowers, but they aren't the same as the Aero lowers (set screw). There are different levels of quality that each manufacturer will produce. We'll probably end up having our lowers done by Aero for our future forged project.txyaloo said:The majority of forgings come from the same places. Sure billet vs standard forged aluminum are different, but a "standard" AR lower is a standard lower. For example, PSA's lowers are made by Aero as are many others.Naveronski said:BreNayPop said:
There really is no difference in lower other than brand/name recognition/stamping.
This is not a true statement.
That being said, for stripped lowers, there generally isn't a huge difference between them. What changes is the quality control of whoever's name is on them. Daniel Defense is a hell of a lot pickier than Palmetto about their product. You get more consistency with the more expensive brands.
http://www.primaryarms.com/anderson-manufacturing-ar-15-stripped-lower-receiver-ar-15-a3CTGilley said:
Where are they? I was trying to find it on their website.
I mean their storefront.
Oh, sorry.CTGilley said:
I mean their storefront.
2825 Miller Ranch Rd, Pearland, TX 77584
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Primary+Arms+LLC/@29.5579878,-95.3724043,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xe1e5300c1aacb4e0?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiazuSq9LHTAhUSzWMKHbo0AcUQ_BIIdTAN
EDIT: TheWonderer beat me to it
I ordered the 3 stripped lowers and the 9mm shield for $325 from PSA. I couldn't find a coupon code for free shipping so it cost an extra $17 but my ffl will do all four transfers for $20.
Thanks
Don't some use different alloys as well?
Not a total derail since the quality of lowers is being discussed. I'm beginning to purchase parts for my 300 blk SBR build. Currently have the stripped lower, a Seekins Precision billet, stamped with NFA trust. Seeking your expertise on high quality uppers.
My gut says to go with a Seekins billet upper for the matched set, but 227.00 for the upper is steep. This is not going to be a budget build, as it's an SBR with a can, but still, what say you?
Ranier arms, DD, saw a thread on 68 Forum about Mega uppers?
My gut says to go with a Seekins billet upper for the matched set, but 227.00 for the upper is steep. This is not going to be a budget build, as it's an SBR with a can, but still, what say you?
Ranier arms, DD, saw a thread on 68 Forum about Mega uppers?
Lowers are like motor oil. The one to buy is the one on sale.
Spend your money on oil filters, bcgs and barrels.
Spend your money on oil filters, bcgs and barrels.
Look at San Tan tactical. I matched one of their uppers to one of their ambi lowers on my 300sbr build. Love the way it looks.
Also I just put together a "cheap" 10.5" .223 upper for the SBR. ($340 without charging handle and BCG that I steal from my 16")
Found a billet upper by some company called Noreen. Doesn't have a forward assist or an installed dust cover, but it's also only 60 bucks from brownells.
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/upper-receivers/billet-ar-15-upper-receiver-ar-15-billet-upper-receiver-sku100-022-554-101220-190173.aspx
Also I just put together a "cheap" 10.5" .223 upper for the SBR. ($340 without charging handle and BCG that I steal from my 16")
Found a billet upper by some company called Noreen. Doesn't have a forward assist or an installed dust cover, but it's also only 60 bucks from brownells.
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/upper-receivers/billet-ar-15-upper-receiver-ar-15-billet-upper-receiver-sku100-022-554-101220-190173.aspx
You have already invested quite a bit into this build. If it were me, I would go ahead and get the matching billet upper.
I'd go with the billet upper so the receiver lines match up. I think non-billet uppers with billet lowers look strange/cheap.dr_boogs said:
Not a total derail since the quality of lowers is being discussed. I'm beginning to purchase parts for my 300 blk SBR build. Currently have the stripped lower, a Seekins Precision billet, stamped with NFA trust. Seeking your expertise on high quality uppers.
My gut says to go with a Seekins billet upper for the matched set, but 227.00 for the upper is steep. This is not going to be a budget build, as it's an SBR with a can, but still, what say you?
Ranier arms, DD, saw a thread on 68 Forum about Mega uppers?
Thanks fellas!
Definitely love Holosun's open reflex sight rather than the tubes
I currently just have an old Hoppes cleaning kit that my dad gave me once upon a time. Otis cleaning systems seem to be pretty popular, and definitely intrigue me. Curious about people's thoughts on these. Do you use them in addition to having a rod? Are they more for when at the range? Etc.
Don't need a rod with Otis. It's a complete cleaning system.
The Otis kits are really all you need. I like the kit I was issued. But I still use a bore snake mostly because it is faster than running tons of patches.
Isn't Otis just an expensive bore snake?
Thanks for the input! I may just have to pick up one of their mid-level kit.
I think that one is called the ottis ripcord.35chililights said:
Isn't Otis just an expensive bore snake?
The kits are wire patch pullers. Think a traditional rod but you pull it instead of pushing it
I know this question is basically gonna be Ford vs. Chevy thing.
What FF handguard does the OB prefer? Mainly looking for something on the lower side of the budget scale (no cheap junk though).
What length for a 16" barrel? M-lok or keymod?
What FF handguard does the OB prefer? Mainly looking for something on the lower side of the budget scale (no cheap junk though).
What length for a 16" barrel? M-lok or keymod?
aggie4231 said:
I know this question is basically gonna be Ford vs. Chevy thing.
What FF handguard does the OB prefer? Mainly looking for something on the lower side of the budget scale (no cheap junk though).
What length for a 16" barrel? M-lok or keymod?
M-Lok vs Keymod is definitely Ford vs Chevy, but M-Lok is the right answer.
ALG makes a nice, inexpensive handguard, but the Aero in the following link are on sale right now. https://www.righttobear.com/Aero-Precision-AR15-Quantum-M-LOK-Handguard-15-p/apra400105a.htm
The Aero quantum handguards are nice. If you want the slimmer style, check out the Matrix Arms keymod rails at JoeBob Outfitters.
Quote:
M-Lok vs Keymod is definitely Ford vs Chevy, but M-Lok is the right answer.
ALG makes a nice, inexpensive handguard, but the Aero in the following link are on sale right now.
I'll agree that M-lok is the right answer.
I'll also agree that the ALG handguard is really nice (both in price and in person).
However, I had to return it in exchange for the the cheaper Aero due to the inside diameter. I needed it to fit over a 1.5" outside diameter suppressor, and it won't, as it is 1.47" inside diameter. This might not be an issue for you, especially since you'll still have an inch of barrel protruding with your 16" barrel, but I just wanted to throw that info out there, should that help anyone.
I bought the stripped down 15" aero quantum and you can see it stretched over a 10.5" barrel with a 8" suppressor under it in my post above. So far seems decent, especially given its low price.
Not to derail this thread but how well does the handguard dissipate heat when using a suppressor underneath it?35chililights said:Quote:
M-Lok vs Keymod is definitely Ford vs Chevy, but M-Lok is the right answer.
ALG makes a nice, inexpensive handguard, but the Aero in the following link are on sale right now.
I'll agree that M-lok is the right answer.
I'll also agree that the ALG handguard is really nice (both in price and in person).
However, I had to return it in exchange for the the cheaper Aero due to the inside diameter. I needed it to fit over a 1.5" outside diameter suppressor, and it won't, as it is 1.47" inside diameter. This might not be an issue for you, especially since you'll still have an inch of barrel protruding with your 16" barrel, but I just wanted to throw that info out there, should that help anyone.
I bought the stripped down 15" aero quantum and you can see it stretched over a 10.5" barrel with a 8" suppressor under it in my post above. So far seems decent, especially given its low price.
I don't have much to contribute, but learning a lot from this thread. Thanks guys.
PSA has SPARCs for 139 again when using the code SPARC
For those who missed it last time.
For those who missed it last time.
Thanks! I've been waiting for that deal to pop back up.
Sorry if the engineer in me comes out with this snarky response.
If you're talking direct heat from the suppressor: It limits heat dissipation, as opposed to dissipating the heat.
If you're talking about indirect heat accumulated from the suppressor's heat release: It dissipates the heat very well.
If you just want real world speak, the suppressor can be scalding hot and the temperature of the hand guard directly over the suppressor is hardly elevated over warm to the touch.
If you're talking direct heat from the suppressor: It limits heat dissipation, as opposed to dissipating the heat.
If you're talking about indirect heat accumulated from the suppressor's heat release: It dissipates the heat very well.
If you just want real world speak, the suppressor can be scalding hot and the temperature of the hand guard directly over the suppressor is hardly elevated over warm to the touch.
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