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Bender's Big AR-15 & Semi Auto Shilling Thread

534,365 Views | 2919 Replies | Last: 4 yr ago by robstrom
CharlieBrown17
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I know I've been posting about it for probably a few years now but I finally scrounged together all the parts I wanted and built my first AR from the ground up. My first AR build was an assembled upper and stripped lower and left me wanting to build a full AR so when EyeGuy did the Class Year lowers that basically started my 2 year journey of collecting parts when I spare cash or when I could convince Santa to play nice. I wanted to build a long barrel, long range toy instead of a carbine, the thing is a beast at just over 40" and 11lbs.




Parts List with links
Texian Firearms Billet Receiver set
RRA "Operator" A2 Fixed Stock
Magpul MIAD 1.1 grip
Geissele G2S-E Trigger
PSA Premium Full Auto BCG, No Logo
Strike Industries Extended Latch Charging Handle
Burris PEPR Scope Mount
Vortex Viper 6.5-20x50
15" ALG EMR V3 MLOK Rail
LaRue Tactical 20" Stealth Barrel
Odin Works Lo Pro Gas Block
Strike Industries JCOMP V2 Muzzle Brake
Harris Bipod

Unfortunately the first day on the range wasn't as smooth as hope, the gun is a dream to shoot but I need to get back to practicing driving ARs on the bench as I've become annoyingly rusty. The gun is also overgassed which is a relatively common problem with LaRue barrels due to their larger than average gas port. Brass ejects to about the two o'clock position and the bolt is cycling too fast and returning towards battery before the next round is in place to be fed, the next round is either skipped completely or gets partially fed and dented below the shoulder. Bolt holds open on an empty mag.



Only one ammo I brought along shot anywhere worth a damn, the 69 SMK FGMM produced two back to back Sub MOA/MOA groups. The left is 1.125 edge to edge so .902 center to center and the right is 1.2 so just under 1 at .977.

77 SMK FGMM shot between 1.5-2 inches
75 BTHP Hornady Match was worse
55 SP Hornady Training ammo was actually second best at around 1.5

I think even though its a 1/8 barrel its going to like the lighter stuff, will have to find a good 60 Vmax load for next trip I think. I'm happy with my groups but considering how little I've shot ARs or from the bench recently and the overgas issues I'm not quite satisfied.
maverick2076
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I really like Anderson's adjustable gas block. You might consider it for your overgassing issues.
gibberish
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I would check your buffer weight and spring, I didn't see them in your parts list.

Since you are using fixed A2 stock you do not want to use carbine spring/buffer
Van Buren Boy
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https://instagr.am/p/BPNYNrbgDTD

Did I screw up? I'm almost done with my 300 blackout pistol build. Barrel is a BA 9.5 inch and the handguard is 9 inches. I'm waiting on a Strike Industries King Comp which is approximately 2.5 inches long. Will I have enough clearance as to not damage the handguard?

CharlieBrown17
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I didn't list it but the stock came with a rifle spring and buffer
CTGilley
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I have a 10" rail on my 1.3 barrel and the break fits perfectly without a crush washer.
TheEyeGuy
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Van Buren Boy said:

https://instagr.am/p/BPNYNrbgDTD

Did I screw up? I'm almost done with my 300 blackout pistol build. Barrel is a BA 9.5 inch and the handguard is 9 inches. I'm waiting on a Strike Industries King Comp which is approximately 2.5 inches long. Will I have enough clearance as to not damage the handguard?


Barrel is out past the edge of the handguard. You should be good with pretty much anything.
TexasAggies06
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Working on a 300 BLK pistol/future SBR build with 9" barrel. Is an adjustable gas block recommended if I want to switch between subsonic and supersonic ammo? If so, any particular adjustable gas block you would recommend?
TamuKid
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txswag06 said:

Working on a 300 BLK pistol/future SBR build with 9" barrel. Is an adjustable gas block recommended if I want to switch between subsonic and supersonic ammo? If so, any particular adjustable gas block you would recommend?
Going to be building a 300BLK with pistol length gas system, and have researched this very thing. It appears the general consensus is that the 300BLK round is not overgassed when suppressed with either Super or Sub rounds. Multiple threads on multiple forums across the web all have users indicating the same thing. Not necessary on 300BLK. Additionally, most users suggest tuning an adjustable gas block with a pistol length system is damn near impossible with front facing adjustment screws (due to depth of gas port in handguard).

I have no actual hands on experience though.


Edit: Reddit Thread, check this thread out towards the bottom.
Van Buren Boy
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Thanks eyeguy!
TexasAggies06
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Thanks, good info!
txyaloo
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TamuKid said:

txswag06 said:

Working on a 300 BLK pistol/future SBR build with 9" barrel. Is an adjustable gas block recommended if I want to switch between subsonic and supersonic ammo? If so, any particular adjustable gas block you would recommend?
Going to be building a 300BLK with pistol length gas system, and have researched this very thing. It appears the general consensus is that the 300BLK round is not overgassed when suppressed with either Super or Sub rounds. Multiple threads on multiple forums across the web all have users indicating the same thing. Not necessary on 300BLK. Additionally, most users suggest tuning an adjustable gas block with a pistol length system is damn near impossible with front facing adjustment screws (due to depth of gas port in handguard).

I have no actual hands on experience though.


Edit: Reddit Thread, check this thread out towards the bottom.
IME, 300BLK in an AR platform needs an adjustable gas block if you intend to switch between supers and subs.

My 300BLK guns with a non-adjustable gas system will not reliably cycle subs suppressed or unsuppressed but have no issues with supers. With an adjustable block, I can tune the gas system to run subs/supers with no issues.
EMY92
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I finally joined the AR-15 club.

I picked up a Spike's Tactical ST-15 with 7" SAR rail this morning.

Lonestar_Ag09
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Alright just double checking...I'm in a raffle for a 7.5" 300 blackout upper. I can legally own this even though I don't have a lower yet correct. My intention would be to build anew AR pistol and if I choose to later get the necessary stamp and make it an SBR.

This is all correct? Just double checking to be sure
maverick2076
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Yes, you are good.
The Wonderer
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cpsencik04 said:

Alright just double checking...I'm in a raffle for a 7.5" 300 blackout upper. I can legally own this even though I don't have a lower yet correct. My intention would be to build anew AR pistol and if I choose to later get the necessary stamp and make it an SBR.

This is all correct? Just double checking to be sure
Do you only have AR lowers with stocks on them?

Beware of constructive possession.
Naveronski
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cpsencik04 said:

Alright just double checking...I'm in a raffle for a 7.5" 300 blackout upper. I can legally own this even though I don't have a lower yet correct. My intention would be to build anew AR pistol and if I choose to later get the necessary stamp and make it an SBR.

This is all correct? Just double checking to be sure

Yeah, you're good.

I would suggest finishing the pistol build before starting any rifles just to avoid constructive intent, but don't worry about it.
Lonestar_Ag09
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Right now I have 1 complete AR. Nothing else owned or planned
Pasquale Liucci
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Then you'll be fine. Just beware if you ever get into builds and have a spare stock sitting around and the lower still designated as pistol.
Lonestar_Ag09
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Is there something specific that makes a lower a pistol lower....other than just having the tube/sig brace instead of a stock?

Also is a blackout lower different than a 556? Asking for future reference to be sure I buy the right lower when the time comes. TIA
CharlieBrown17
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.300BO is a standard lower.

Technically a pistol lower has to have never had a rifle or carbine buffer tube on it. Pistol buffer tubes are made where they can't accept a stock. That's the difference between the two.
GigemCO2008
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Need some suggestions

Built a 300 blk out AR Pistol and 16" AR
Both lowers are Aero from Eye guys lower deal
Both LPK's were also from when Eye Guy did his deal.

Went to Hot Wells yesterday and did the barrel break in process (debate for another day if this is required) of firing one round, then running a swab down the barrel and letting the barrel cool slightly between rounds.
Both guns ran great, no failure to loads or FTE.

However, I ran into this problem on both guns.
The trigger pin wanted to walk out on both. I had an instance where I wasn't looking over and go to pull trigger and nothing happens, when I look, trigger pin had walked out, so it didn't drop hammer.

Now this was a pretty simple fix and get the pin back through fully, but seemed out that it happened on both.

I know with my G2S, it has anti walk clips, but besides that solution, are there any other tips/tricks I can do to get them to stay in place.

I don't know if the trigger groups that came with Eyeguys can take anti-walk pins.

Thanks for the help.
gibberish
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CMC anti walk pins should fit any mil spec dimension triggers. I like the CMC more than the look of the KNS bars, but those would work too.
TamuKid
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GigemCO2008 said:

Need some suggestions

Built a 300 blk out AR Pistol and 16" AR
Both lowers are Aero from Eye guys lower deal
Both LPK's were also from when Eye Guy did his deal.

Went to Hot Wells yesterday and did the barrel break in process (debate for another day if this is required) of firing one round, then running a swab down the barrel and letting the barrel cool slightly between rounds.
Both guns ran great, no failure to loads or FTE.

However, I ran into this problem on both guns.
The trigger pin wanted to walk out on both. I had an instance where I wasn't looking over and go to pull trigger and nothing happens, when I look, trigger pin had walked out, so it didn't drop hammer.

Now this was a pretty simple fix and get the pin back through fully, but seemed out that it happened on both.

I know with my G2S, it has anti walk clips, but besides that solution, are there any other tips/tricks I can do to get them to stay in place.

I don't know if the trigger groups that came with Eyeguys can take anti-walk pins.

Thanks for the help.


What about trying new trigger pins? Maybe yours are a bit out of spec? Could also be the lower as well I suppose.
TheEyeGuy
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I think you're close enough to drop by. If so come by after i get back from shot and we can see if if other pins will work. I have a bunch of extras
AGricola08
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Posted these on the "my first AR build" thread, but thought I would share here as well. My first build. 300 blk with plans to pay for sbr and can in the next month or so. Until all that gets taken care of(8+ months down the road), I'll have to stick with the 16 barrel.

GigemCO2008
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Will Do, when do you get back?
reveille23
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Quandry for the the OB AR peeps.

Got my first AR all put together and proudly took it to the range. First shot fired was on target, spent brass ejected nicely, went to pull trigger again and it won't pull (can't move it at all, like it's stuck). Switched to safe, hold for a minute or two, pull back charging handle and checked chamber, new round is in there like it is supposed to be with no indication of primer hit. Closed bolt and switched to fire, pulled trigger and get same result...bang, eject, dead trigger (completely stiff, no travel at all). This time I switch to safe and back to fire and hear a click and notice that the trigger moved some and now feels like it is free. Tried this multiple times, different mags, different ammo, same result.

When I try it with upper removed the hammer isn't resetting, when I switch the safety on and off again it is resetting and that is the click I heard at the range.

Is there something that I installed incorrectly that could cause the hammer to not reset as it should, or is it possibly something wrong with the FCG (CMMG enhanced LPK)?
The Wonderer
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CharlieBrown17 said:

.300BO is a standard lower.

Technically a pistol lower has to have never had a rifle or carbine buffer tube on it. Pistol buffer tubes are made where they can't accept a stock. That's the difference between the two.
Not technically correct.

A lower that has been built in a rifle first (built out lower with a rifle stock attached and a rifle upper mated to form a fully functioning firearm capable of firing a projectile) cannot be later converted to a pistol. The designation of firearm type (pistol or rifle) only occurs once the upper and lower are mated to create a functioning firearm. Until that occurs, the lower is a virgin lower.

A stock that is purchased with a rifle stock attached, but has never had an upper mated to it has never been made into a rifle; therefore, you can remove the rifle stock and install a pistol buffer tube in its place and build a pistol without a problem. This is still a virgin lower as an upper has never been mated to the lower.

It's a nit-picky technicality, but an important one in my mind.
CTGilley
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This is a shot in the dark but are you missing the small spring on the trigger under the disconnector?
txyaloo
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This.

Also, if an upper isn't attached, all lowers transfer as an "other" on the 4473.
jackie childs
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after 42 pages, I'm sure someone has asked this, but the search function is currently disabled, so I'm sorry for asking again...

My first AR should be arriving in a couple of days and I was curious what everybody would consider as "must have" accessories for a first time AR owner (other than ammo). It comes with a hard case and flip-up iron sights, both of which I'll use for a while.

Magazines- How many should I have initially? What brands would you recommend or avoid?

Cleaning- Bender posted a video a while back about how to take care of and clean the rifle, but are there any particular cleaning kits, tools or supplies you'd recommend?

Tools- I'm not talking about build tools, but any tools you always have with you that come in handy at the range?

and then if there's anything else you'd recommend, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks



The Wonderer
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jackie childs said:

after 42 pages, I'm sure someone has asked this, but the search function is currently disabled, so I'm sorry for asking again...

My first AR should be arriving in a couple of days and I was curious what everybody would consider as "must have" accessories for a first time AR owner (other than ammo). It comes with a hard case and flip-up iron sights, both of which I'll use for a while.

Magazines- How many should I have initially? What brands would you recommend or avoid?

Cleaning- Bender posted a video a while back about how to take care of and clean the rifle, but are there any particular cleaning kits, tools or supplies you'd recommend?

Tools- I'm not talking about build tools, but any tools you always have with you that come in handy at the range?

and then if there's anything else you'd recommend, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks




Mags: I have something like 15 Magpul PMAGS and 20 Troy Battle Mags. Like them both.

Cleaning: Get a boresnake and keep some CLP on hand at a minimum (in the range bag).

Tools: I keep a set of Allen wrenches and punches and screwdrivers in my range bag
TamuKid
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I've used magpul and hexmags and had no issues. Magpul is the big name.

Keep a screwdriver with any head type you may need (hex, Allen, etc). in your range bag. If anything loosens you'll want to be able to retighten. Loctite would be good as well.
aggie_wes
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Question: looking to sell my "starter" AR and had a question about the melonite. I had a clamp on flashlight mount that left some marks on the barrel. What is the best way to clean this up and make it look pretty again?
 
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