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Bender's Big AR-15 & Semi Auto Shilling Thread

499,156 Views | 2919 Replies | Last: 3 yr ago by robstrom
CharlieBrown17
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AG
Scopes with short eye relief typically have a tight eye box, especially if variable power.

Scopes with long eye relief are typically useable in a much greater range of distances from the scope.


I agree at the end of the day it's personal preference but I've never heard bad eye relief refer to a longer eye relief.
MTxTwelve
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CharlieBrown17 said:

Scopes with short eye relief typically have a tight eye box, especially if variable power. I am not sure how you have come to that conclusion as the "eye box" is essentially a margin of error within the position of eye relief. Most high powered scopes are built with an eye relief of roughly 3.5" which is considered a small value. Check-out the latest offerings from S&B, Nightforce, Leupold, etc. See below.

Scopes with long eye relief are typically useable in a much greater range of distances from the scope.Again, see below.


I agree at the end of the day it's personal preference but I've never heard bad eye relief refer to a longer eye relief. Remember, we're talking about the AR platform. Long eye relief is the devil. I could see how you'd want longer eye relief on a revolver or even a scout rifle platform, for sure.
Copied over from SH:
Eye Relief:
This is the specific distance behind the scope's ocular bell at which the target image and reticle can be seen in the scope's full field-of-view (FOV). A distance that is either too short or too long results in blurry edges around a FOV that is smaller than optimum. Eye relief is a listed value by all scope manufacturers.

Exit Pupil:
This is the cylinder-shaped beam of light that exits the scope and contains the target image. The diameter of this cylinder varies in size depending on the size of the scope's objective lens, and the particular magnification setting. In order for a shooter to see the entire FOV offered by the scope, the shooter's eye must be; 1)at the correct eye relief distance, and 2) INSIDE the diameter of light defined by the exit pupil diameter. An eye position outside (or on the edge of) the exit pupil diameter results in a blacked-out or blurry image.

I like to think of the exit pupil as a "floating disk" behind the ocular bell. The shooter's eye must remain inside this "floating disk" to see the entire FOV. This is no easy chore when a scope's magnification increases, because the diameter of the "floating disk" can shrink significantly.

Exit pupil is also a listed value by all scope manufacturers, or can easily be calculated by dividing the scope's magnfication setting by the objective lens diameter

Eye Box:
Eye box is defined as the amount of "allowable error" in a shooter's eye relief position, yet still offering a clear target image and full FOV. In other words, an optimum target image and full FOV despite a shooter's eye being slightly in front of, or slightly behind the optimium eye relief position.

Eye box is NOT a listed value by any scope manufacturer.
CharlieBrown17
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AG
I'm well aware of the definitions of eye relief, exit pupil and eye box.

I don't see how you don't agree that a shorter eye relief is going to give you a worse eye box given that we agree eye box is margin above and below the optimal.

I also think you're confusing the issue with including scout/ revolver scopes, those are designed to have much longer eye reliefs. In traditional rifle scopes long and short are very relative terms considering the low spread in eye relief values.

In my opinion, forward mounting options exist to take advantage of scopes with longer eye relief. Nose to charging handle is taught to get a consistent hold not because of the specs of an optic.
MTxTwelve
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That's what I said about the larue mounts, mayne. You stated that short eye relief is typically considered bad eye relief - and I'm still not clear on why you'd want longer eye relief on an AR.

Maybe I don't read good. I am not a very smawt man.
Puryear Playboy
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Extended eye relief in the optic gives you a better useable range of eye relief to properly mount the rifle in different shooting positions.

Nose to charging handle is not relavent for shooting optics...it's a vestige of iron sight use where you need to have your eye (and thus your face) in the same position at all times for best accuracy with iron sights.

You want to mount your optic as far forward as possible as a general rule. Your head position in prone will be further forward than when shooting standing or off the bench, so an optic mounted too far to the rear will then create problems when you climb the rifle while in prone.
CharlieBrown17
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To get this thread back on track....
Primary arms has a metric **** ton of stuff on sale right, nothing tempting enough for me to pull the trigger on but lots of temptations present

Huge Clearance at Primary Arms
gumby579
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BCGs....I'm on a second build now and wanting to know what you guys are using. I went mid-range with an Aero in my first build but anyone have experience or opinions on the PSA or other cheap low-end ones?
maverick2076
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PSA BCG's are good to go.
GeeBee
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I bought a PSA BCG for a 5.56 PSA 8.5" pistol upper. First time I shot it I ran steel cased crap ammo that was the cheapest I could buy. Functioned flawlessly rapid firing 2 mags. I think I paid $84.99, free shipping and included charging handle.

I read somewhere that PSA BCG's are made by ToolCraft
3rdGenAg05
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What is the max torque spec on a AR15 barrel nut?
CharlieBrown17
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Mil spec says 80 ft/lbs
aggie_wes
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AG
Most guides I've seen say to torque between 35 and 80 ft-lbs
3rdGenAg05
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Ok, that's what I thought. Just wanted to verify. Thanks
mts6175
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It depends on the manufacturer of the barrel nut. Some of them are different material and have different torque specs. Standard nut used by the military is 80 ft lbs. Other manufacturers may have different specs.

Example, SLR Rifleworks Solo Series is 35 ft lbs.
CharlieBrown17
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aggie_wes said:

Most guides I've seen say to torque between 35 and 80 ft-lbs


Yeah. Max is 80.


Pretty sure the army manual says tighten to 35 then tighten until the gas tube is indexed as long as you don't pass 80.


My ALG rail didn't come with a torque spec at all, it's really not important.
GeeBee
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AG
translation : anywhere between hand tight and really tight
MTxTwelve
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2ndChanceAg96
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AG
Finishing up my 6.5 Grendel. Anyone recommend a certain type of bolt catch and lever? Is there a real advantage to the extended versions?
BenderRodriguez
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I posted a long time ago about doing a quasi lightweight build. I say quasi because I'm also going with some ambi parts since I'm a left handed rifle shooter...which I would have deleted and done without if I was looking to save every single ounce possible.

Well, I got busy, and a key part was out of stock. Still haven't built the gun, but I'm one step closer now that this little beauty was back in stock when I was ready to buy.











2.9 oz lighter than a regular BCG.


dubi
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Link? Also a lefty...
BenderRodriguez
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dubi said:

Link? Also a lefty...

Only ambi parts I'm putting on the gun are a CMMG ambi safety that I added on in the LPK and a BCM ambi Mod 4 charging handle.

Did you mean link to those parts, or to the lightweight BCG?
dr_boogs
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Bender - I'm a lefty and would love a link to the light weight bcg and what you selected as ambi controls of choice.

Also, just got my NFA approval for my sbr, so it's go time for my .300 blk build. Want to make it fairly lightweight too. Would you list out 4-5 parts that I could do quasi-light, most bang for the buck as far as weight goes? I realize I'll be saving a ton of wt w the short barrel so that's a good start.
CharlieBrown17
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Guntec and ALG make cheap, light handguards.

Puryear Playboy
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Take a look at the Adams Arms light weight gas carrier (they make low mass piston and DI carriers).

One of the best parts of the Adams DI carrier is the gas key is machined as part of the carrier...no screws and no staking to ever fail.

Need to weigh one...no idea what the weight is.

Be careful with low mass carriers...it's very easy to buy your way into reliability issues. Light carriers mean you need to play with gas and buffer weights. Different ammo will also react differently...so you have to pick your poison. Low reciprocating mass is nice, a gun that don't run 100% when you need it too is not.
dubi
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BenderRodriguez said:

dubi said:

Link? Also a lefty...

Only ambi parts I'm putting on the gun are a CMMG ambi safety that I added on in the LPK and a BCM ambi Mod 4 charging handle.

Did you mean link to those parts, or to the lightweight BCG?

all of the above.

do like the lightweight BCG!
BenderRodriguez
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Lightweight BCG

BCM ambi charging handle

CMMG Ambi Safety

Dr Boogs:

Handguard is a big one. No old school quad rails. ALG makes light/cheap rails, Geissele makes nicer more expensive light rails, BCMs KMR line is light....

You can save a lot of weight on buttstocks as well, look to something like the MFT Minimalist.

You can also shave a lot with expensive (but cool) options like the BAD receiver set, or the BALIOS (my favorite)

Beyond that, you start getting into things like lightweight bolts, and if you really want to go nuts check out V7s line up. Expensive as hell, but light.
TheVarian
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There are also carbon fiber options... but gotttt dayyyyyum are they exspensive

https://brigandarms.com/shop-3/brigand-edge-7/
gumby579
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Botach has a 6 pack of the Lancer AWM magazines for $77 shipped right now. These are usually about $14-15 per magazine (including shipping). I know these aren't the usual PMAG or GI magazines (or cheapest) but I love mine.
gibberish
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gumby579 said:

Botach has a 6 pack of the Lancer AWM magazines for $77 shipped right now. These are usually about $14-15 per magazine (including shipping). I know these aren't the usual PMAG or GI magazines (or cheapest) but I love mine.
Have switched to all translucent smoke Lancer mags for competition, can't see myself going back to opaque or GI mags.
Van Buren Boy
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Just need my stamp


https://instagr.am/p/BQ3Wb4fhYn7
CTGilley
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Anyone have a line on some good 20rd mags? I was using cheap ones in my 300BO pistol but now it does not want to pick up the last few rounds and it has always had occasional trouble. I want to try some of my Pmags and steels but I ran out of daylight yesterday.

If it is not the mags what is the next step in resolving an occasional failure to feed issue? Buffer?
maverick2076
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If they are old GI 20 round mags you can get rebuild kits. Try Brownells or Midway.
CTGilley
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They are crappy S&W plastic mags. I don't think you could even call them polymer. I think the top lip may need to be trimmed some.
BenderRodriguez
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Try different mags and lots of lube before anything else when troubleshooting ARs.

They like to be run wet.
CTGilley
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That is the plan.

I also picked up a 20rd PMAG to make my free shipping.
 
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