quote:
I'll send it back if it sucks as bad as an A3.
I like the A3, even coupled with .308.
Bender's Big AR-15 & Semi Auto Shilling Thread
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Last: 4 yr ago by robstrom
I like the A3, even coupled with .308.
quote:You're the outlier lol I've never been able to get a decent cheek weld with them when compared to an A2 or a B&T. Mine is on my MP5/40 for good reason. Neither of them ever make it to the range.quote:
I'll send it back if it sucks as bad as an A3.
I like the A3, even coupled with .308.
quote:quote:I went ahead and bought one from Primary Arms. Dealer pricing was a decent discount. I'll send it back if it sucks as bad as an A3. If this one doesn't work out, I'll try the MVB version which is a bit more compact. I'm building up a PDW and want something a little lighter/more compact. A standard buffer/tube is ~10oz. My go to STR stock is around 12.5oz. The Tomahawk is supposedly 10oz total.quote:
I'm thinking about picking up a Troy Tomahawk for a new 300blk build. Has anyone on here run one before? I'm wondering if it's any better than the HK A3 stocks
Haven't gotten to play with one but that style intrigues me too.
Another option would be a law folder and a LWRC ultra compact.
I played with the MVB ARC stock. Really liked it's functionality, but I couldn't get a cheek weld I wanted. Ended up with a Law folder.
This summer I rebarreled and rebuilt my training rifle and primary social rifle. Used the MVB ARC since it allowed the use of any carrier and this rifle is a piston (Adams Arms conversion kit).
Had considered this stock for a PDW also, but it is heavy. The weight works for this rifle since it has some stuff on it and will occasionally wear a can. The PDW won't get any of that, so the weight will blow the balance on that rifle. Law side folder will be the answer there I think.
The MVB has been outstanding. I like that it can be fired collapsed. Zero cycling issues from round number 1 with all sorts of ammo. Cheek weld is not great, but it's a CQB rifle, not a precision gun. Once you get used to what it offers there is no issue.
It's called The Skunk now for the reason below...
Had considered this stock for a PDW also, but it is heavy. The weight works for this rifle since it has some stuff on it and will occasionally wear a can. The PDW won't get any of that, so the weight will blow the balance on that rifle. Law side folder will be the answer there I think.
The MVB has been outstanding. I like that it can be fired collapsed. Zero cycling issues from round number 1 with all sorts of ammo. Cheek weld is not great, but it's a CQB rifle, not a precision gun. Once you get used to what it offers there is no issue.
It's called The Skunk now for the reason below...
I really like that paint.
Krylon. I use their semigloss clear coat for added durability. Prep with brake cleaner or rubbing alchohol. Rifle is done in under an hour. I use three colors on my precision rifles, but on the carbines I like to use just tan and brown.
quote:Good info. I went with the Troy because it already came in FDE and was ~$100 less than the MVB. The MVB reviews say it has really good lock-up. I believe it's also shorter than the Troy.
This summer I rebarreled and rebuilt my training rifle and primary social rifle. Used the MVB ARC since it allowed the use of any carrier and this rifle is a piston (Adams Arms conversion kit).
Had considered this stock for a PDW also, but it is heavy. The weight works for this rifle since it has some stuff on it and will occasionally wear a can. The PDW won't get any of that, so the weight will blow the balance on that rifle. Law side folder will be the answer there I think.
The MVB has been outstanding. I like that it can be fired collapsed. Zero cycling issues from round number 1 with all sorts of ammo. Cheek weld is not great, but it's a CQB rifle, not a precision gun. Once you get used to what it offers there is no issue.
It's called The Skunk now for the reason below...
I have considered the LAW for a few years, but it's heavy and can only fire 1 shot when closed. I plan on building another 5.56 PDW and may go with it. I usually carry either an MP5K or HK53 for a PDW. They seem to just "fit" me, but that's probably because of how many rounds I have through the 9x platform guns. ARs have never felt like an extension of my hand/body like the HK guns.
That's all true.
I wouldn't recommend firing at all with the Law due to the probability of damaging the device.
MVB's stock was very attractive for that reason. Additionally, they seem to be the only one of that style to allow a regular/nonproprietary bolt carrier.
I wouldn't recommend firing at all with the Law due to the probability of damaging the device.
MVB's stock was very attractive for that reason. Additionally, they seem to be the only one of that style to allow a regular/nonproprietary bolt carrier.
quote:The MVB and Troy both use standard carriers. I believe there's one other that also does. I figure I'm only out $12 in shipping if I don't like the lock-up/cheek weld.
That's all true.
I wouldn't recommend firing at all with the Law due to the probability of damaging the device.
MVB's stock was very attractive for that reason. Additionally, they seem to be the only one of that style to allow a regular/nonproprietary bolt carrier.
Anyone need a 1/2-28 Saker mount?
I'm selling a second gen Sig Brace if anyone is interested. Put it on a pistol and never ended up using it. It's in like new condition. I'm open to reasonable offers.
The classifieds thread:
http://texags.com/forums/50/topics/2783360
The classifieds thread:
http://texags.com/forums/50/topics/2783360
Stock and rail came in this morning. Still waiting for AIM to ship my damn barrel.
I like the stock a lot. Locks up tight and is comfortable to shoulder. The rail hits the lower receiver when the upper is opened fully. Seems like it needs a notch milled into the bottom by the take down pin. Not super impressed with the attention to detail by ALG.
I like the stock a lot. Locks up tight and is comfortable to shoulder. The rail hits the lower receiver when the upper is opened fully. Seems like it needs a notch milled into the bottom by the take down pin. Not super impressed with the attention to detail by ALG.
Many shades of FDE...
anyone looking for a uni-mount for a scope on their AR? I got a Nightforce one that I am looking to move.
http://texags.com/forums/50/topics/2781078
http://texags.com/forums/50/topics/2781078
I wish coyote brown were more popular for gun parts since there is a defined colorway for it.
As is, we get a rainbow of FDE
As is, we get a rainbow of FDE
I guess we are getting a pricing respite before another "oh crap!" right before the election. Maybe Hilldawg's recent travails and the increased chances that the Senate may stay in Republican control may be helping. At any rate, I just saw that Kentucky Gun Co. had Ruger AR-556 for $569.99 with free shipping. That is the cheapest I have seen that in a while.
Back to handguards for a moment (I saw another thread on types but trying to keep this kinda question in this thread). I decided to go with M-lok after digesting discussion in this thread. Now looking at sights I might mount. If the spec says "fits most 1913 Picatinny-railed hand guards" can I expect it to fit M-lok? I see this kind of language from different manufacturers and different devices.
quote:You'll have to buy an adapter like this.
Back to handguards for a moment (I saw another thread on types but trying to keep this kinda question in this thread). I decided to go with M-lok after digesting discussion in this thread. Now looking at sights I might mount. If the spec says "fits most 1913 Picatinny-railed hand guards" can I expect it to fit M-lok? I see this kind of language from different manufacturers and different devices.
quote:quote:You'll have to buy an adapter like this.
Back to handguards for a moment (I saw another thread on types but trying to keep this kinda question in this thread). I decided to go with M-lok after digesting discussion in this thread. Now looking at sights I might mount. If the spec says "fits most 1913 Picatinny-railed hand guards" can I expect it to fit M-lok? I see this kind of language from different manufacturers and different devices.
Unless your handguard has a picatinny rail section on the top. My ALG rail does
Yeah, I brainfarted and read "sights" as "lights".
What CB17 said. Most handguards have a rail running the length of the rail on the top for sights and optics.
What CB17 said. Most handguards have a rail running the length of the rail on the top for sights and optics.
Puryear, that paint job is sick. How many AR's did you have to practice on before you got that good at the pattern? I'd pay you to have you do one of my rifles. That is just sweet. How does it hold up over time with that clear coat on top?
Puyear might have done it a little different but here's my method.
Krylon a light tan undercoat, let sit, spray your pattern of greens or browns patterns, let sit. Hold can of OD green krylon back about 12-18" and do an over spray of the whole rifle which blends the whole pattern together. This is straight from Light fighter.coms book of Pat.
Krylon a light tan undercoat, let sit, spray your pattern of greens or browns patterns, let sit. Hold can of OD green krylon back about 12-18" and do an over spray of the whole rifle which blends the whole pattern together. This is straight from Light fighter.coms book of Pat.
Thanks CB17 & Wonderer. I was so focused on the slots and differences that I missed the point of the top rail.
Just got a silencerco trifecta flash hider for my 6.8 build. why do y'all suppose this doesn't use a crush washer?
quote:
Just got a silencerco trifecta flash hider for my 6.8 build. why do y'all suppose this doesn't use a crush washer?
Bore concentricity.
Crush washers have a tendency to slightly angle the muzzle device as it tightens. Extrapolate that over the length of a suppressor, and you get a baffle strike. Bad news bears.
I knew you nerds would have an answer for me !!! Good work!
quote:If you don't mind my asking, what is the price range for this gorgeous weapon?
Just finished this one up after I got the stamp this week. Figured this would be the most appropriate place to post it. Thanks to EyeGuy for the upper/lower!
quote:quote:If you don't mind my asking, what is the price range for this gorgeous weapon?
Just finished this one up after I got the stamp this week. Figured this would be the most appropriate place to post it. Thanks to EyeGuy for the upper/lower!
Here you go. Haven't purchased any optics yet but the irons worked perfect when I went and shot it.
It's really easy. I would rather just do it with you than have you pay me. It's so easy...you almost can't screw it up.
Surface prep is really important. I use brake cleaner. Rubbing alcholhol on sensitive stuff. The clear coat really helps.
Longer post tomorrow. Am at the state swat competition tomorrow and have to get up much earlier than I have any desire too...
The lower in this pic was painted almost six years ago and that rifle has been put through the wringer, so it wears pretty good. I didn't have time to paint the upper after I built it before this sniper match a couple weeks ago. 22" 6.5CM Criterion barrel on an Aero M5 upper receiver. Put 11 rounds through it for zero, chrono and confirming at 400 and 500. Had a stage win in the tower to 750 and also shot a 2" group at 625 with it (edge hits) that I called as misses. It's going to be a good one when I get it sorted out data wise...
Surface prep is really important. I use brake cleaner. Rubbing alcholhol on sensitive stuff. The clear coat really helps.
Longer post tomorrow. Am at the state swat competition tomorrow and have to get up much earlier than I have any desire too...
The lower in this pic was painted almost six years ago and that rifle has been put through the wringer, so it wears pretty good. I didn't have time to paint the upper after I built it before this sniper match a couple weeks ago. 22" 6.5CM Criterion barrel on an Aero M5 upper receiver. Put 11 rounds through it for zero, chrono and confirming at 400 and 500. Had a stage win in the tower to 750 and also shot a 2" group at 625 with it (edge hits) that I called as misses. It's going to be a good one when I get it sorted out data wise...
I assume you just interchange uppers on that painted lower depending upon your needs for that day/scenario/etc.?
A lot of us are either building or about to build AR's it seems. I have finished one and am currently working on a second. Many times when I'm shopping parts I find myself unfamiliar with the manufacturer because there are so freaking many out there! It would be awesome to have some of you really experienced guys compile manufacturers into groups such as Tier 1, Tier 2, etc.. or Top of the line, budget, stay the hell away from etc.. I would hate to build what i think is a "Top tier" AR only to find out that I have included a ****ty part in the mix unknowingly. Does that make sense?
Yes. That rifle is a custom built .308. That upper was built to do what the 6.5 does better.
Anyone tried out the sponge camo method? I'm thinking of trying it out on few builds.
Anyone else want a red safety+mag release+charging handle.
I have already put in my Krylon order with Mr Dubi!
I have already put in my Krylon order with Mr Dubi!
quote:I have done it, although not on a rifle. I used it on a custom GI Joe I painted. It works well. The keys are to use natural sea sponges and to be careful not to overload them with paint.
Anyone tried out the sponge camo method? I'm thinking of trying it out on few builds.