Ha! Great post. Better be glad you didn't hook one of those feral roosters. Those things can work you over pretty quick. There's a reason they haven't been eaten by a predator yet.

That's about a 3.5 hour drive for me. Adding that to my list for next year.

dr_boogs said:

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Ha! Great post. Better be glad you didn't hook one of those feral roosters. Those things can work you over pretty quick. There's a reason they haven't been eaten by a predator yet.

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Would definitely want to have the 8wt for that fight.

rather be fishing said:

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That's about a 3.5 hour drive for me. Adding that to my list for next year.

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It was 7+ hours for me from Boise. The last 50 miles are on a well kept gravel road.

TKEAg04 said:

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rather be fishing said:

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That's about a 3.5 hour drive for me. Adding that to my list for next year.

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It was 7+ hours for me from Boise. The last 50 miles are on a well kept gravel road.

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Let me know if you're ever up around Sandpoint or Thompson Falls (we're about halfway between the two).

Kelly creek was my favorite place to fish when I was teaching at Washington State. We had many 50 fish plus days on dry flies and those colored up cuts are beautiful, especially when you see them rising from 20 ft deep. Caught many 20-25" on sculpin minnow imitations. Even hooked a monster bull trout once, the light tippet wasn't up for the fight.

dr_boogs said:

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Awesome photo. I've been trying to hook one of those SOB's all summer to scratch if off my fly-rod list and am still 0'-fer. Missed another one yesterday. And two weeks ago was fly fishing on an over flow out of lake somerville and there were dozens coming up to sip air but couldn't get much interest. Had one hit a deer hair bass bug but when I went to set the hook he released. What fly did you catch yours on?

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Take a short piece of nylon rope, tie one end near the eye of the hook, fray the rest, and strip it like a streamer. Their teeth will get tangled if the hook doesn't set.

We spent a few days on the Big Hole River. Glad to be away from the gulf coast during this devastating storm.

Caught a bunch of small fish on tiny Tricos!

We moved today to the Madison River near Ennis, hopefully we can find some fish!

Grayling are on my short short list...

See you're fishing a 4 wt. I'm looking to add a 4 to my collection. Panfish, trout, light bass duty. Float fishing and wading. You have any rod suggestions or companies to avoid? Mid level price.

I have a couple TFOs so would like to try out another company. Saw one review on the Hardy Shadow that was really good but I've never cast one. Appreciate the advice.

Those are whitefish I believe.

LRHF, what model is your Winston 4wt, and how do you like it?

rather be fishing said:

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Those are whitefish I believe.

LRHF, what model is your Winston 4wt, and how do you like it?

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It's a boron IIIx. Bought it "on sale" when visiting the Bighorn River a few years back (At least that's what I told My wife!)

It's the best dry fly rod I have. Medium fast action, 8' 6". Had a similar conversation with a guy in a shop in Dillon and he stated that the Scott G series is the best rod out there for delicate dry fly presentations. Since I'm unemployed, I'll happily stick with the Winston! I have a Sage One 490 and use it when nymph fishing. No comparison to the Winston.

The Winston is paired with a Gen 1 Hatch 3 plus and I wouldn't consider another reel for catching big trout on small flies and 6-7x tippet.

I found an old, old (1984) Scott G 4wt earlier this year and absolutely love it. It's obviously no comparison to the new models. I also have a Scott Radian in 6wt that I like a lot. Didn't cast any other weights in that rod, but the 6 is very versatile. It'll launch some streamers, but also lay down dries pretty soft, although it has some tendency to be heavy.

The Orvis Recon is pretty consistently considered a great value rod for the price it's sold at. I casted a T&T rod when I bought my Radian, but their warranty wasn't as good as Scott. TFO's warranty is pretty hard to beat.

rather be fishing said:

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Those are whitefish I believe.

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doesn't change the fact that grayling are on my short list!

but...uh...oops, lol

dr_boogs said:

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See you're fishing a 4 wt. I'm looking to add a 4 to my collection. Panfish, trout, light bass duty. Float fishing and wading. You have any rod suggestions or companies to avoid? Mid level price.

I have a couple TFOs so would like to try out another company. Saw one review on the Hardy Shadow that was really good but I've never cast one. Appreciate the advice.

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I recently added an Echo 4 wt glass to the collection and really like it.

Lots of bend and makes pan fish more fun.

Way more flex than a TFO and a little more than the Winston Boron.

Cost is about the same as TFO and way less than Winston.

Thanks, I looked at Echo but quickly became lost down the rabbit hole of all their models. I've got a 3 wt TFO Finesse trout so I'd like something medium-fast, not too soft. I'll circle back around and look at Echo more closely. You ever fished an Orvis Clearwater?

dr_boogs said:

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See you're fishing a 4 wt. I'm looking to add a 4 to my collection. Panfish, trout, light bass duty. Float fishing and wading. You have any rod suggestions or companies to avoid? Mid level price.

I have a couple TFOs so would like to try out another company. Saw one review on the Hardy Shadow that was really good but I've never cast one. Appreciate the advice.

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https://www.yellowstoneangler.com/gear-review/2019-4-weight-shootout/

I don't cast enough different rods but always enjoy the Reviews by G. Anderson and his crew. Have heard great things about the Hardy Zephrus rods especially the older ones they blew out a few years ago (not better than the new ones but heck of a sale, may be able to find one of these used in 8' 6").

Does anyone use tippet rings between your leader and tippet? These can be used as an indicator to replace a short tippet or you can tie a dry fly near the ring and tie a nymph on a longer, second tippet. The dry fly works as an "indicator" for the nymph, but can also be fished.

No. But I know some guys that do. TheY catch fish, too.

yes i use them. Replacing Tippet is much cheaper than replacing leaders when they get too short. What you just described is a pretty common set-up up here in western carolina.

Is there an advantage over tieing your leader to tippet with a surgeons knot? Leave the tag end of the tippet long and tie your dropper to that, or just drop a wet/rs2 or whatever under your dry fly with a clinch knot on the bend of the hook.

PearlJammin said:

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Does anyone use tippet rings between your leader and tippet? These can be used as an indicator to replace a short tippet or you can tie a dry fly near the ring and tie a nymph on a longer, second tippet. The dry fly works as an "indicator" for the nymph, but can also be fished.

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I've used them on furled leaders and also on my 8wt up in Alaska. Really nice to not have to deal with your leader shrinking quickly when you switch flies often.

I've tried making my own furled leaders but haven't had great success. Attempted to make a machine I could operate with a power drill, but I haven't been able to get it to work properly. You can buy them online, but they kind of defeat the purpose once you spend $150 on one.

dr_boogs said:

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Thanks, I looked at Echo but quickly became lost down the rabbit hole of all their models. I've got a 3 wt TFO Finesse trout so I'd like something medium-fast, not too soft. I'll circle back around and look at Echo more closely. You ever fished an Orvis Clearwater?

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I got into fly fishing a little over four years ago. It's become a whole other life form. Orris Clearwater a good choice. Good quality, hard to beat their warranty, and they've got rods for anything that swims. They're a medium fast action rod, that helps you smooth out any casting errors. Check out their website. I've also got a couple of their Recon models. I still grab my 8'6" Clearwater 3 weight quite a bit, fishing the Pecos, outside the Santa Fe area.

Hamburger Dan said:

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dr_boogs said:

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Thanks, I looked at Echo but quickly became lost down the rabbit hole of all their models. I've got a 3 wt TFO Finesse trout so I'd like something medium-fast, not too soft. I'll circle back around and look at Echo more closely. You ever fished an Orvis Clearwater?

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I got into fly fishing a little over four years ago. It's become a whole other life form. Orris Clearwater a good choice. Good quality, hard to beat their warranty, and they've got rods for anything that swims. They're a medium fast action rod, that helps you smooth out any casting errors. Check out their website. I've also got a couple of their Recon models. I still grab my 8'6" Clearwater 3 weight quite a bit, fishing the Pecos, outside the Santa Fe area.

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Just spent the evening fishing an Orvis recon (7wt), agree that they are great rods! Haven't fished one in a 4 wt but would hesitate to try another Recon in a different weight.

Thanks for the reply, I'll take a look at the recon and clearwater. I make it to Santa Fe a couple of times a year. If you live in the area let me know, would love to wet a hook with you. Haven't fished the Pecos yet.

@LHRF thanks for your reply!

dr_boogs said:

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Thanks, I looked at Echo but quickly became lost down the rabbit hole of all their models. I've got a 3 wt TFO Finesse trout so I'd like something medium-fast, not too soft. I'll circle back around and look at Echo more closely. You ever fished an Orvis Clearwater?

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DOC ... agree on the complicated. I think rod makers, line makers, golf ball makers all need to simplify things.

Just for grins, I went to the Echo site and found this chart that explains their rods on an action and power axis.

I was thinking, before looking at this, that the Glass rod I bought had to be on the slow to slower end of the spectrum and sure enough it's in the way out bottom left corner. If you can read the graphic you might see the different actions that might work for you ... guessing gecko or carbon xl.

I'm not pushing the echo, I only own the one, but I know a lot of people in the NW and BC seem to like them. I do know they are reasonably priced.

I have not fished the Orivs Clearwater. I bought my daughter an Orvis Helios and it's a great rod. I'd guess it's in the fast to med-fast range. She's a beginner and is learning how to cast. On a recent outing she said she likes the slower action of the Echo glass vs the Helios because she can feel the line and the loading on the glass.

Over the years, I've come to realize I like a little slower rod action and more flex when conditions allow-- I think it's just a more enjoyable way to cast. I will often over line a stiffer rod to get the feel I want.




https://echoflyfishing.com/project/river-glass/


https://echoflyfishing.com/project/trout/

can't tell if the chart graphic posted so I think I posted a link ...

In addition to extending the life of a leader, tippet rings allow you to consolidate the number of different knots needed for an in-line multi-fly nymph rig. A clinch knot can be substituted for the more difficult blood knot (or bulkier surgeon's knot) at the leader-to-tippet connection and this knot, or whatever you use to join the fly to the tippet, can be used throughout. I began using tippet rings for this purpose and although my blood knots have improved, I still prefer to use a ring. Install them on new leaders as soon as you buy them so it saves even more time while on the water.

I've got a bvk 3wt and a maxcatch glass 3wt. For fishing small streams and creeks, I prefer the glass rod.

The BVK has the advantage of being able to convert to a 10ft euro rod, so it is my goto for fishing the stocked trout around here.

I've got a 5wt Clearwater and a 5wt aetos.they are both nice rods...great rods for the price. I haven't heard anything good about the Fenwick warranty but I can speak from experience that the orvis warranty is pretty good. But the TFO warranty is second to none, especially if you are in Dallas.

discosuperfly said:

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In addition to extending the life of a leader, tippet rings allow you to consolidate the number of different knots needed for an in-line multi-fly nymph rig. A clinch knot can be substituted for the more difficult blood knot (or bulkier surgeon's knot) at the leader-to-tippet connection and this knot, or whatever you use to join the fly to the tippet, can be used throughout. I began using tippet rings for this purpose and although my blood knots have improved, I still prefer to use a ring. Install them on new leaders as soon as you buy them so it saves even more time while on the water.

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How much of your tapered leader do you trim down before attach the ring?

Duncan Idaho said:

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I've got a 5wt Clearwater and a 5wt aetos.they are both nice rods...great rods for the price. I haven't heard anything good about the Fenwick warranty but I can speak from experience that the orvis warranty is pretty good. But the TFO warranty is second to none, especially if you are in Dallas.

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I broke my 8wt Mangrove a couple years back. Mailed it to TFO with a $35 check in the tube, and I had my rod back with 2 new sections, and a TFO baseball cap in under a week. Very hard to beat their customer service and warranty.

rather be fishing said:

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discosuperfly said:

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In addition to extending the life of a leader, tippet rings allow you to consolidate the number of different knots needed for an in-line multi-fly nymph rig. A clinch knot can be substituted for the more difficult blood knot (or bulkier surgeon's knot) at the leader-to-tippet connection and this knot, or whatever you use to join the fly to the tippet, can be used throughout. %A0I began using tippet rings for this purpose and although my blood knots have improved, I still prefer to use a ring. %A0Install them on new leaders as soon as you buy them so it saves even more time while on the water.

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How much of your tapered leader do you trim down before attach the ring?

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I don't trim any down. %A0I tie it to the end of leader then attach the tippet.

Since I have a nymph rig in mind, I tie in a ring higher-up than the point where the tippet theoretically begins on the tapered leader. It's hard to describe exactly where, but this point must be narrow enough to accept a 2mm tippet ring and I want it to be the lowest point on the leader to which my indicator can be slid. Putting it higher up also keeps it further from the fish. Not sure if true, but I read somewhere that tippet included with the tapered leader may not be as strong so I always tie in new fluro tippet with my nylon leader.

discosuperfly said:

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Since I have a nymph rig in mind, I tie in a ring higher-up than the point where the tippet theoretically begins on the tapered leader. It's hard to describe exactly where, but this point must be narrow enough to accept a 2mm tippet ring and I want it to be the lowest point on the leader to which my indicator can be slid. Putting it higher up also keeps it further from the fish. Not sure if true, but I read somewhere that tippet included with the tapered leader may not be as strong so I always tie in new fluro tippet with my nylon leader.

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You are correct. Tapered leaders are extruded and I always cut off the end and tie in new tippet. Makes a great place to put on weight so it doesn't slide down the leader. Manuf. will tell you it is full strength but too much variability in the manufacturing process to trust it.

Have enjoyed reading posts. Someday I would like to get into fly fishing. I used to have a rod and reel with line that was light enough I could actually get the action down and set a fly out on the water. Crude but it worked.
Reason I'm posting now is I keep seeing this on Craigslist locally.
BRAND NEW IN BOX - Stonfo Airone Travel Fly Tying Vise - Made in Italy for $170
https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/spo/d/san-antonio-brand-new-in-box-stonfo/7178363948.html
Is it worth the money?