I just ran across this picture and thought it belonged in this thread.

Looks a lot like mine, but I have the flying lady instead of the bird.

What does H-BAR mean? I am looking at getting a couple of the CMMG bargains and want to know the difference.

Thanks.

"Heavy Barrel"

I think that with the CMMG Bargain Bins, you don't get a choice in which one you get...

you do get a choice, just look at the drop down menu.

You're right...you can choose what type of AR, but I was thinking "brand". You may be able to pick between m4 barrel profile and heavy barrel, but you can't pick "Colt HBAR". You're just at their mercy as to what brand you get.

ARre 7" handgaurds really like 6.5 inches? I measured the handguards on my gun and they are not 7inches long.

7" is the length of the gas system. Midlength is 9" and rifle is 12". Rail length can vary depending on it's geometry and how you are measuring it.

HBAR...what does one look like? I've been digging through AR threads, and I think I have an idea, but 90% of what I see are M4's.

M4 w/ HBAR barrel


M4 w/ M4 barrel


The difference is mostly under the hand guards but the most obvious is the cut out just in front of the front sight post. It serves no purpose on the civilian side because it's for attaching the M203 grenade launcher but it is a little lighter weight wise and people like the military appearance.

Edits to fix photo sizes.

[This message has been edited by CT'97 (edited 3/4/2008 7:25p).]

[This message has been edited by CT'97 (edited 3/4/2008 7:29p).]

This thread is incomplete without this GIF

Took some pics of the kids and thought I'd share...

From the top:
- 10.3 Colt 9mm upper
- my social rifle, 10.5 .223 (forgot the can...)
- the Rib's 10.5 .223
- 16" 6.8 (soon to be 11.5)
- 3 Gun stick
- dedicated .22 upper w/can
- the coyote gun

Built them all myself except for the 9mm.




PP '89

[This message has been edited by Puryear Playboy (edited 3/7/2008 10:48a).]

[This message has been edited by Puryear Playboy (edited 3/10/2008 4:12p).]

I'm jealous...

I have another question.
I recently purchased a rail that I intend to mount on the bottom of my handguard. Last night while trying to install it I realized that there is not enough room for the heat shield and the nut for the rail.

I know that the purpose of the heat shield is to keep the hand guard from melting.
My question is do I really need the heat shield in there, or shoud I try and find flatter nuts?

hehe, flatter nuts

bwahahahahahaha

Flatten your nuts if you want too....

If it was me, I would just take out the heat shields. You dont need them. They are for full-auto kinda heat and I doubt you will be getting the barrel anywhere near that hot.

PP

There are several schools of thought, most prefer the free float for the following reasons:

1. Free float rail system improve accuracy. Less stuff touching the barrell the better.

2. A vertical foregrips attach better to free floats. In the field, vertical foregrips attached to handguards fail more often.

3. Hanguards generally will not hold a zero. (although most would advise against putting any optical system on a FF for the same reasons.)

4. With a good low profile gas block, more than a few manufacture's free floats are lighter than their handguard counterparts. However, this is debatable depending on what BUIS you're using on the front.

5. They look hellas lot more cooler. Never underestimate the sex appeal of a Tacti-cool handguard. It's critical.

Hope that helps.

[This message has been edited by 94 Killer (edited 3/20/2008 9:09p).]

Pretty much depends on why you want it...for lights, lasers, or forward grips, get a good one like the Surefire or YHM and you are good. It will add weight, but increase functionality.

Accuracy is increased (somewhat, and marginally) with a FF, but it depends on the rifle if that increase is worth the cost and trouble to mount one... On a carbine that is a self defense gun, or just will be shot at 200 yards max on large (bigger than a shoebox) targets...the accuracy gain is irrelevant. So what if you shrink groups at 100 by a half-inch? Its a CQB carbine. Now, on a priarie dog rifle...different deal.

PP

For those that don't know, Bushmaster does a tax time sale every year.

New great deal evryday thru 3-28.

so far they have had:
Single point sling 3-19
varmint upper 3-20
Leatherwood scope 3-21
Bushmaster 450 upper. 3-22
Magpul PRS 3-23
Feild Survival Parts kit 3-24

[This message has been edited by deatsman (edited 3/24/2008 1:19p).]

Deatsman (or anyone else), would one of those bargain bin rifles be a good choice for prairie dogs and hogs? I'm assuming the 20" would be better than the 16", but is HBAR really necessary?

Honestly, an ideal prairie dog gun and ideal hog gun would not look much a like. In the pic below, I have a 24" varmint upper with a 15x scope that would would great for PD's but weighs to much and is to long to realistic carry while tromping around in hog county. The gun on the left is a 16" H-Bar with 3x scope that is ideal for shooting pigges. One the bargain bins could be used for both, but I don't see anyone making 300-500 yard shots on PDs with one of those rifles.

But if you bought one, a $500 upper could easily be added and it would be an ideal PD killin machine. So to quote arfcom, "Buy Both."

"A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity" ~ attributed to Freud

Makes sense. But a bargain bin would be passable for intermediate range PD shots, yes? I'm thinking 100-250 yards, maybe. If so, do you go for the 16" M4 barrel which would also work well for hogs, or the 20" HBAR? I wouldn't be terribly concerned with a long barrel and tromping through brush, fyi. And this is mostly hypothetical, anyway, at least for now. Just curious and thinking about what I might do in the future.

If you wanna shoot PDs, get the 20" HBAR.

Thanks!

Hey, anyone? Can it harm the firing pin in an AR to dry fire it? I know some firearms are not particularly happy to be dry fired. I need to know if I need to get one of those dummy dry fire shells.

no... dry fire away

DO NOT dry fire a lower with out an upper though, unless you catch the hammer.

deatsman is correct...

Puryear,

Is that a Millet DMS that I see mounted on a couple of your weapons?

If so, how do you like it and what do you usually use it for?

I've got the DMS. It's a handy little scope. It's certainly not rugged enough for battle conditions, but I only battle unruly pigs and paper targets, so it's perfect for me.

The cost has gone up on them, so I'm not sure I'd pay the premiums for them. I got mine on Midway for 190 bucks.

Liked it so much I bought two. One is on my 3 Gun rifle the other is on my 6.8 SPC which is my primary hunting rifle.

For the money it cant be beat. The optics could be a little clearer, and the reticle in one slightly canted (I havent had time to send it back yet...) but the circle/dot reticle and true 1 power is very fast.

Field of view at 1 power is very good also (this helps in transitioning from one target to the next in competition or staying on the pigs...) and thats not something every low power optic can say...you really need something in the range of 90-100 feet at 100 yards.

The illumination saved my butt at the Ft. Benning 3 Gun this year and has been the sad regret of quite a few hogs.

PP

You were at the Ft.Benning 3 gun?

We need to get together and share a beer or two and talk. I have been seriously thinking about getting into 3 gun.

Are you local in B/CS?