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THE AR THREAD

167,173 Views | 1314 Replies | Last: 7 yr ago by CharlieBrown17
Centerpole90
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AG
Any of you guys have experience or opinions about GA Precision and their AR10s? Their prices are better for a custom built than an Armalite SASS, and comparable with DPMS SASS. The guys at AR15.com speak highly of them.

edit http://www.gaprecision.net/AR10.html

[This message has been edited by Centerpole90 (edited 10/24/2008 7:21a).]
35chililights
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quote:
Really depends on what you want to do with the rifle...range shooting paper, coyotes and deer...2 stages work fine, shine even. Of all the expensive ones, I still think the plain ol' Rock River gives the most value.

Now for a social rifle, one used in carbine/3 gun style matches or for hunting where you may be shooting a lot, like hogs, the 2 stage is a real pain in the ass.

A good single stage is the way to go. A fix that works for most that I have suggested it to is the 3.5 pound spring set from JP Rifles (jprifles.com, you will have to call them to order trigger components), at $11 they will make you stock trigger 100 times better.

YMMV.

PP



PP,

Can you explain that spring switch, how does it change the pull?

[This message has been edited by 35chililights (edited 10/29/2008 11:26a).]
Puryear Playboy
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It is amazing to me that it makes as much difference as it does...but it does.

I think the key is the lighter weight of the hammer spring makes the system feel smoother...so you end up pulling through the long and grinding trigger take-up more smoothly.

They say you may have issues with some ammo with hard primers, mainly surplus. I have shot most everything in mine without much issue.

All my SBR's and rifles that dont have JP's trigger unit, or the one McCormick drop-in I have, have the sprng kit. Only issue is that my Ciener kit will misfire due to the lighter hammer spring, but thats it.

K
Kramer
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How big a scope is too big to mount on top of the carry handle of an A2?
35chililights
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Kramer:






in all honestly i dont know (but i had to post that).
Puryear Playboy
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Any scope on a carry handle is too much.

They ruin any balance of the rifle, are way to high above the bore to be effective at long range, you cant get a good cheek weld, and look silly.

I think a cantilever mount with some sort of red-dot is a much more effective route to an optic on a fixed carry handle weapon.

PP
hurricanejake02
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So I pulled the trigger on a High Standard flat top. Other than a rear BUIS, what's the first extra I need to buy?

I'm assuming I should start with stocking up on 30 round P-Mags and bulk ammo, but what does the almighty AR thread advise?

On the rear BUIS - any recommendations? I've been looking at LaRue, and trying to determine if the $140 folding Troy site is worth the extra money compared to the $89 stationary site.

[This message has been edited by hurricanejake02 (edited 10/31/2008 12:06a).]
Puryear Playboy
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BUIS all depends on what sort of optic you plan to use...

If you plan on some sort of scope the eye relief will require you to have a BUIS that folds down VERY flat. Like an ARMS 40L.

Any Dot will sit in front of a rear sight no problem...check out some picture threads for ideas.

PP
Streetfighter 02
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What sort of case are ya'll using to carry your rifles? I don't want to break it down every time I take it to the range or wherever. I'd also like to not remove the optics.
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Puryear Playboy
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6.5 vs. 6.8 is all over the net, and will bring blood if the discussion starts here...

Both are good rounds. The 6.8 excels in barrels 16 inches and shorter (it was designed around 10.5 and 11.5 inch barrels) and in uses that generally have a max range of about 250 yards.

The 6.5 is fine at short range as well, but it really needs longer barrels to make its numbers and then it really shines at ranges on the other side of 500 yards.

My 6.8 has an 11.5" inch tube and rocks whatever it touches within 200 yards.

Ammo aint cheap either way. Mags and parts are a wash.

PP
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Kramer
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OK, I've got a problem.

I've had my RRA A2 for a couple years now. Always worked great but I have noticed, in the past, that I had to have the rear sight adjusted to the right, probably half way over. However, I never thought much about it.

So tonight, against the advice on here, I mounted a 4x30 scope of the handle. I bought a Smith Enterprises carry handle mount, which has always had the see through hole canted to the left, which I found distrubing and annoying, but not a huge deal. Well, I get the scope mounted, and sure enough, it's now canted to the left. So much so that I'm not sure I can correct for it.

After about an hour of looking at every piece of this thing and checking the seating of the carry handle mount and everything else you can imagine, I've come to the conclusion that either the carry handle or the entire receiver is somehow canted left about 3 or 4 degrees.

Has anyone heard of this from a factory rifle before? How can I get it fixed? Is it fixable?

I'm kind of freaking out here that one of my babies is put together...wrong. And by RRA no less.
Old Sarge
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If looking today, one might want to check out Academy if they want a Bushmaster. It may be something store specific, or across the board with computers, but mine rang up $120 cheaper at the register than was tagged at the gun counter and I was told by the counter staff.

Wanting to be honest and not put the bad karma on my new gun, I told the register person and the escort person the gun rang up cheaper than I was told and it had been tagged. They both looked at eachother and said "we cannot change the price at the register".

Mod. XM15-E2S .223 cal. Carry handle with peep sights, but can still mount a scope on top.


Looking at tonights election results roll in, I'm thinking it was a good buy on two accounts.

Now I am new to the AR thing, and am getting this primarily as a JFB purchase (just f-ing because). I have plenty of rifles and shotguns for sporting use.

Price posted was $949, price paid was $829. Knowing I have no time for building one and will primarily use for plinking, was this a decent buy? I may look at some customizing later, but not a necessity.
35chililights
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Hey PP (and others with SBRs):

i am having a tough time choosing between 10.5 and 11.5 barrels. i am also having a hard time finding non-conflicting info on reliability and specifics such as gas tube length, buffer weights, etc.

Can you offer any guidance?

Puryear Playboy
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Dont read all the BS about them not running. Thats people with an agenda, or folks that have built their own and dont know what they are doing.

One exception...if you do a lot of fighting in sub-zero temps you may have issues with your shorty.

Buy a quality barrel with a proper gas port and you will have no issues. As usual, most rifles will be over gassed (too large ports to ensure functioning) so I run 9mm buffers in all mine. Buffer weight is a double edge sword. The more weight the longer the bolt holds closed and the softer the recoil and wear from opening...the heavier weight does go into battery harder, so you have some wear there. The boost to dwell and lower reciever port pressure are worth it, IMO. Make sure to use top quality parts. I run MPI'd bolts and JP stainless carriers.

I really prefer the 10.5, the 11.5 is theoretically a little more reliable (temps), but then so would be a 20".

Buy a can or a KX3. Short barrels are not much fun without some sound modulation.

PP

[This message has been edited by Puryear Playboy (edited 11/5/2008 12:38p).]
TXAGFAN
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quote:
One exception...if you do a lot of fighting in sub-zero temps you may have issues with your shorty.
This is why I didn't get one.[/puts on tin foil hat]

Just kidding with you.
Puryear Playboy
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Note I didnt say sub-freezing...I said sub-ZERO. That's not too many days in Texas...

PP
Kramer
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Nobody has any ideas about my problem?
Log
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Are you saying that the SEI mount is crooked too? I'm not sure I am understanding what is going on with the scope mount.
Puryear Playboy
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Kramer, I have never seen that issue before. But, RRA doesnt make that upper, they buy them from Cerro or Cardinal.

Its always possible that something like that made it through. How old is it? RRA was nothing special until they won a couple of .gov contracts. Then all of a sudden they are "all that." Not really.

Call them and ask what their warranty would be on the issue.

PP
Kramer
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The SEI mount fits snug and flush. No wiggle even when it isn't tightened down. It just looks to me like the reciever isn't aligned properly with the barrel.

I've got an email into RRA. No word yet. The whole rifle is a couple years old.
tx4guns
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Wanted to post the link to the magazine thread so it doesn't get lost...

http://texags.com/main/forum.reply.asp?topic_id=1290606&forum_id=34
RRAggie99
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My latest purchase....

hurricanejake02
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My latest addition to the collection:

35chililights
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quote:
The boost to dwell and lower reciever port pressure are worth it, IMO.


i followed all of that with the exception of the above.

can you explain, please.


Puryear Playboy
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Dwell time is the amount of time that there is enough gas pressure at the gas port (either the barrel port, or at the end of the gas tube in the receiver) to operate the action.

That pressure builds, dwells, and then subsides. The greater length of time the curve stays above the amount needed to operate the action, the more reliable the system. Generally longer barrels are better because there is more barrel past the gas port and while the bullet is in the bore (and past the port) it plugs up the expanding gases and the reward is longer Dwell.

Short barrels may mean shorter dwell...notice that 20 and 14.5 have about the same distance from gas port to muzzle. Now, to compensate for that shorter steeper pressure curve, a larger gas port is used. The result is a gas pressure curve that looks more like a pyramid. The spike of the curve may be much higher than needed, and the acceleration of the curve much faster than needed, but you have to have a minimum amount of dwell TIME for the action to function.

OK, so...in shorter barrels this pressure rises very quickly and to levels that can cause damage over time. These excesses are built into the design to ensure functioning in all climates and conditions. Cold really screws with the equations, and to ensure that rifles work well even in very cold climates they are "over gassed" in all other conditions (since you cant change gas port size). Note the 3 gas port settings on the FN-FAL...anywhere, anytime baby.

Ammo will also effect all this...some ammo put more pressure in the system than others. This can be due to bullet weight, velocity, or type of powder used.

Lots of variables. I would hate to be a gun maker trying build AR's that will run all the time with any ammo, in any weather, clean or dirty... So, again we arrive at the most common solution...over gassing.

On all rifles that don't have adjustable gas blocks you cant control gas pressure at the gas port. So you do it at the receiver port.

By using a heavier buffer (I run 9mm's in most of mine) you add inertia to the system. In this case the inertia holds the bolt carrier group closed longer. Instead of allowing the very high pressures to throw the BCG to the rear, the inertial weight of the heavier buffer resists a little longer, lets the pressures subside a bit, and then opens. This is all gentler on the system parts, particularly the bolt lugs (they tend to shear in bad over gas situations since the lugs are still pushed back into the barrel extension by chamber pressure while the bolt is trying to rotate open...check the rear of your lugs for rounded edges to diagnose over gassing).

As I said, the disadvantage to a heavier buffer is that there is more weight going forward on the system as it goes into Battery. But I see this as a good trade off and a benefit to reliability (maybe). The other advantage is that the delayed opening of the BCG means that the rearward velocity of the BCG is lowered and you have less perceived recoil. This is very noticeable.

I love Holiday Inn Express.

PP
Log
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35, this is what I was talking about in regards to the H, H2, and H3 buffers. The 9mm buffer is a little heavier than the H3. The H3 is the same weight as a standard rifle buffer.
35chililights
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Thanks PP and Log.

I knew what we had talked about Log, I just was just a little unclear on the tern 'lower receiver port pressure'.

I cant find it back, but i think i came across something saying that the design of the kx3 is supposed to smooth out the curve by increasing some back pressure. Did i read that right, and if i did, how does that work. It looks like a two piece unit.

then in regards to barrel, gas block choice, what do i need to look for when purchasing. RR looks like they make a complete upper in 10.5 that looks like i would be hard pressed to build for that price.

[This message has been edited by 35chililights (edited 11/6/2008 11:24a).]
35chililights
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oh and i still cant get those front sight pins out. looks like i might have to drill them out.

I beat the crap out of them with a sledge, and not even a budge.

unless you want a shot at them?
Puryear Playboy
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The KX3 has a cone on the inside...at the base of the cone is a hole that the bullet passes through as it exits the muzzle. Gas is diverted along the walls of the cone and into the sides of the KX3 where it cannot escape and this creates addition pressure at the muzzle.


Any of the factory built uppers will be a good choice. Get the lightest weight package and barrel contour possible. You WILL be adding something to the muzzle that will add weight later...




[This message has been edited by Puryear Playboy (edited 11/6/2008 11:36a).]
Log
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Try soaking them in penetrating oil overnight and give it one more shot. Otherwise, I'll be in VV on Saturday and may head up to Muenster to drop of some deer meat at Fischers for sausage.
35chililights
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if you dont happen to come up to m-village, let me know. i will meet you in VV as i would like to get this thing complete.

and thanks for all the help.
Puryear Playboy
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Bigger hammer.
35chililights
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bigger then four pounds?

I will post the latest picture of them when I get home.
 
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