Insanity Pricing seems to be over.

Ammo is way down. Some boxes had 2-3 prices tags of lowered prices on them. Lowers were $125. You could of bought a complete lower for $275 and an upper for $450 for a complete gun new gun at $725.


No primers anywhere. Lots of brass and bullets though.

Beware of SOG Armory prices. They were 20-40% above everybody else but had almost everything.

I did pick up a KNS firing pin retaining pin. Supposed to be the best.

what advantage does the KNS keeper pin provide?

is it just easier take down?

solid steel pin...

ok...

so, man of few words, why would that be better? does the cotter pin shear frequently or something?

ahhh. nm.

Modern AR-15s are commonly sold with two-legged cotter pins in place as firing pin retainers. If one of the pin legs breaks off or bends substantially, it can allow the firing pin to escape its tunnel during live fire and lock up the gun tight.[/url]

Yes it can shear and IIRC, in the grendel that is more likely b/c of the increased recoil.

any suggestions on a rear iron sight? The only recommendation I was previously given was not to get a flip up because they may not flip to the right spot. Is that true? I will probably just use iron sights for a while. I looked and found the

Also, any suggestions for where to find a BCG in stock?

i have a troy flip up rear sight. not only does it not loose alignment when flipped up or down, but i can take it completely off and put it back on and it doesnt seem to have any effect on zero.

My Yankee Hill flip up sight worked fine on my old 10mm upper. If you get a good brand, you won't have to worry about it. Stay away from the cheap stuff.

As long as you buy a good brand you wont have any trouble. If you can wait for the Magpul BUIS, it should be out this summer, it will be a great choice and much less than most of the quality options. I have handled one and they are very nice.

If your choice is one of the A.R.M.S. models you will have made a great choice. I would caution you about buying a 40L unless you really need the low profile sight. I dont like the fact that it deploys with the small aperture in place...if you need a BUIS, you dont need to be screwing around with it trying to get an aperture you can see through...

Otherwise they are the Gold Standard in flip-ups at the moment.

That Magpul BUIS and Front are out. I saw them yesterday at Champion and bought a set. They were around $90 for the set if I remember right. FYI, they only had black.

I got a LPK in the mail on Wednesday and RRA called yesterday to ask if I still wanted the 2-stage NM trigger and LPK I ordered in March. Eff yes I want it! SEND THAT CHIT!

Whats the best place to get some info on cleaning an AR?
I have been looking over on ar15.com but everyone seems to have an opinion on it, but none of them are the same.

Bought an Otis kit and follow the instructions that came with it. Fantastic kit but I suggest getting full size with chamber brush and brass scrapers.

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Got one of my lowers put together tonight. The LPK was from Model 1 Sales in Whitewright. I had some trouble with a couple of the springs. Ended up cutting coils of of them so they'd fit properly.

You shouldn't have to do that, but if you got it to work, I guess that's OK.

I got 4 rifles assembled on Saturday. They look REALLY sharp, and they shoot very well. I shot some sub MOA groups at 50 yards with the iron sights. I am not a good iron sight shooter. Dad's gonna mount a scope on them to shoot a group with each to see what they are capable of.

We'll have barrels by August hopefully to finish up the other 10. I'll post pictures of them on the main board when I get them.

Here's the parts we used:

-DS Lower
-Bushy A3 upper with BCG (staked)
-Shaw barrels
-RRA LPK
-CAA 6pt stock for 16" models, A2 stocks for 20" models
-DMPS quad rail gas blocks
-Knurled aluminum FF tubes (Bushmaster, I think)
-DPMS rail mount iron sights (QD)

Question on loctite: Should I loctite the FF tubes, gas block set screws and 6 pos stock castle nut on? I think they're plenty tight, but is it a standard practice to do so? Red or blue?

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I got 4 rifles assembled on Saturday.

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What, no photos?

Bushmaster does loctite their free floats from the factory...

You have to pretty much burn it out if you want to change the tube b/c its difficult to get the right amount of torque to break them loose.

I would def NOT loctite the castle nut. The gas block is up to you.

I didn't have my camera. I'm waiting on mom to take some pics in the shop and send them to me. A couple of them are already spoken for, but dad is taking deposits on them if anybody wants one. $1100 without sights, and $1200 with sights. They're built to be accuarate hunting rifles, and the new barrels will be mostly stainless 20" bull barrels with a few M4 barrels (non-chrome lined), and some 16" HBARs, too. These will outshoot most production rifles you can buy. They have fed 100% in test firing, and I believe dad is trying to get a test target with each one so people know what they will do.

Deats,

I don't know if I didn't torque it or what, but I did have a stock loosen up on me with just a couple shots. I tightened it up and it was fine after that. Probably just an oversight on my part.

The FF tubes have been torqued to around 50ft-lbs with a strap wrench. I think that will hold.

The set screw type gas blocks make me nervous. I didn't loctite them, and they're torqued as tight as I could go without stripping the set screw heads. Has anyone ever seen these loosen up over time? The Shaw barrels didn't have dimples, but the new LW barrels will have them. That gives me a little more confidence in them, but I'm still 2nd guessing not loctiting them.

i dimpled mine myself. easy but be careful.

On the gas block, dimple the barrel, then use Red Loctite on the set screws. If you ever need to remove it, just take a propane torch to it. Test the screws occasionally, since once they get hot enough, they'll break free pretty easily.

I would use Blue Loctite on any other set screws or screws. I would not use any kind of loctite on the barrel nut or FF tube nut. Just torque them correctly and that will be enough.

To dimple the barrel, just take a drill and give it a light, little inverted cone? That should be easy.

Thanks, guys.

Pretty much. I would however use a drill press if you have one. I managed to do it with a handheld, and it was somewhat nerve wracking.

quote:

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it was somewhat nerve wracking.

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yes it is tough. A press would make it much easier.

I think I can handle it. I plan to use a small center punch first and it should make work easy. You only need a dimple, not a hole.

I just use the set screws to mark the spots. A punch might jump on you.

Another easy way is to lock down one screw and use a 1/16 smaller bit than the screw hole on the other side and let the block be your guide. Then tighten the dimpled side, and do the other the same way.

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That's how I was gonna do it b/c the rifles are sighted in and the gas blocks (after a lot of "calibrated" eye-balling) are aligned.

Burdett's (College Station) has Rock River LPK w/ 2 stage match trigger for $172...several in stock.

My RRA LPK with the 2-stage NM trigger came in today. Much MUCH easier assembly. All parts fit like they were supposed to. Front takedown pin went in the first time. No flying springs and detents.

Have any of yall used one of the Ruger10/22 to AR conversion kits? There seem to be several on the market, and I was wondering if yall had any recomendations.

I saw the archangel conversion kit and the nordic conversion kit. Are either of these any good?

Um, yeah...I've really been meaning to get one of those...

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If two smart-arses can get along, I think we could be good friends.

Took some family photos.

Obligatory "feet-in-photo" shot


Obligatory "couch-in-photo" shot


And some others

Great pics, that must be a nice digi SLR. Good choices on the rifle.

But, where is your Ruger 10-22 AR?