[Sticky] Digital Camera FAQ

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Karrde
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12:37p, 1/3/12
FincAg, usually you use ISO as a tool to let you get your shutter and aperture in the range that you want.

As an example, I go to a lot of airshows, typically using a 7D and a 100-400 f/4.5-5.6. I'm in shutter priority mode all day, because I want to firmly control the shutter (to get prop blur on prop planes, and to freeze motion on jets). It's hard to shoot in manual mode because the sun angle is constantly changing, and often the planes are flying in and out of shadows. So I'm in shutter priority mode, which lets me fix a shutter speed and let the aperture float. Sometimes, with the faster jets, I run into issues because I can't get a wide enough aperture to get good exposure at 1/1250 or 1/1600 shutter speed (since my lens only opens up to f/5.6 at 400mm zoom). So at times I'll need to bump my ISO up to 200 or 400, so that I can still maintain exposure even at those fast shutter speeds.

Also, even when my lens can get a good exposure at f/5.6, there are time when I'll deliberately bump the ISO anyway. There's an increase in image quality on my lens when I can stop it down to f/6.3 or f/7.1 that can make up for the extra noise I get from going to ISO 400.
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Karrde
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12:44p, 1/3/12
It's pretty easy to explain Exposure Compensation as well. When I'm at the airshow, and letting my camera do it's metering, it's trying to meter to an 'ideal' exposure level. All cameras are trying to meter to '18% gray', which is halfway in intensity between pure black and pure white (I might have the number slightly incorrect, but it's the overall concept that matters).

So regardless of whether I'm shooting a dark blue Blue Angel's F-18, or a white Thunderbird's F-16, my camera wants to expose it like it's a medium gray. So I use exposure compensation to tell the meter what I really want. When I'm shooting a dark plane, I dial exposure compensation down a little bit, to tell the meter "I know you think this is too dark, but it's a dark plane damnit." And likewise I'll dial it up if I'm shooting a light colored plane.

If you shoot a bit with spot metering, and play around with metering on light and dark colored subjects, you'll start to get a good feel for how your meter sees the world. When you can predict what the meter will do, it gets easier to toy with it a bit to get the picture you actually see in your head, instead of just clicking the shutter and hoping everything works out.
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FincAg08
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3:21p, 1/3/12
Ok, thank you guys. In theory it is making sense to me. I think I just need to go out and practice more.
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Rule Number 32
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3:54p, 1/3/12
I'm trying to decide between the Nikon D5100 and The Canon T3i. Seems both are pretty solid cameras and websites seem to be split 50/50 on their recommendations. I wish I had a little extra money to push to the D7000 but I dont think that is an option right now. Why does all of this have to be so complicated!

I hope this gets pushed back up to be a sticky. I've read most of it twice over and it is very helpful
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TexasAggieJTL
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8:44p, 1/3/12
Guitarsoup,

I'm looking at adding another lens for my Canon T3i. I'm looking at the Tamron 70-200MM f/2.8 for little league baseball. However, this lens does not have image stablization. Can I do without the IS?
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Guitarsoup
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9:04p, 1/3/12
You don't need IS for sports. IS only helps with camera shake. You want your shutter speed to be 1/2000th or higher to capture bat on ball. That should work well. If it is always daytime for the games, something like the Canon 100-400 might be a good choice as well.
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TexasAggieJTL
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2:30p, 1/4/12
Guitarsoup,

First of all, thank you for all your advice it's really helpful.

Back to the indoor volleyball, I will be using the 85mm 1.8 this weekend.

What camera setting do you recommend? Will I get good pictures if I just set the Canon T3i to sports mode and click away or do you recommend a manual setting?

Thanks again
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Guitarsoup
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2:46p, 1/4/12
Start at 1/640th F/1.8 and ISO 2500. The WB may work on 4000k. Adjust as needed. But those are just shots in the dark. No way to really know what it is like without being there.
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Guitarsoup
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2:47p, 1/4/12
quote:
Will I get good pictures if I just set the Canon T3i to sports mode and click away or do you recommend a manual setting?

Nope.


Also, switch to single point auto focus and only use the center point (which is your strongest.)
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agracer
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7:30p, 1/4/12
Rule32
quote:
I wish I had a little extra money to push to the D7000 but I dont think that is an option right now. Why does all of this have to be so complicated!


No offense, but on what you just wrote, start with the D5100 or T3i. It's much less complicated than the D7000. I had a D50 for 4-years and upgraded to the D7000 last spring. I'm still trying to figure it all out.

IIRC, the D5100 has the same sensor. I took middle school night football game photos with my d7000/80-200f2.8 and was stunned how nice one of the prints I made came out at ISO1600. The new Nikon line up of 'prosumer' level cameras are very nice.

TXAgSDC - might want shoot raw so you can change the white balance later in case you get it wrong in the gym.

[This message has been edited by agracer (edited 1/4/2012 7:36p).]
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agracer
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7:48p, 1/4/12
Regarding ISO

ISO 100/200mm/f4.0/ 1/1250
taken during the day time.


ISO1600/150mm/f2.8/ at 1/1000s (actually to fast for middle school) taken at night under middle school lights (which are terrible).


look especially at the background in the 2nd image. See all that "noise".
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FincAg08
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3:16p, 1/6/12
I see it. So what you're saying about the shutter speed being too fast is that you could have afforded to use a slower shutter speed, which would have maybe allowed you to lower the ISO and get a less grainy picture?
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agracer
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8:59p, 1/7/12
yes, kids don't move that fast. I could have shot it ~1/320s and ISO800.

That is actually a jpeg file right out of the camera with a small amount of sharpening in Adobe Camera Raw.

I could have shot at 1/320s, ISO 800, f2.8 shot in RAW, then up'd the exposure a bit in Camera Raw and had a bit less grain in the photo.

but it still came our pretty darn good. The Nikon D5100 has the same image sensor and processing engine so you can get the same results in low light.
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Aggie Q
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6:07p, 1/9/12
Shifting the topic a bit - who here is using a mirrorless system? (was reading a bit on the stuckincustoms blog and he's all about the 3rd gen systems)

So - has anyone done with mirrorless systems that which specifically they used to do with dslr?
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watty
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6:35p, 1/9/12
Question: is there a place I can order prints of photos cropped to random sizes? TIA.
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Guitarsoup
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8:16p, 1/9/12
Check out MPIX then EZPrints. MPIX is better quality.


As for mirrorless, I would say it is a great technology for walk around cameras and fun advanced amateur. I really enjoyed using the X100 and would get an X Pro 1 if it wasn't so expensive. Maybe it will be good enough someday for general pro use. THe best use I can think of as is would be PJ use when you need a quiet camera. Electronic shutter and no mirror=silent.
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khkman22
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12:59p, 1/10/12
Finally got a 40D and the Tamron 28-75 so I have a few questions now that I am ready to go and practice with my own equipment.

Should I always shoot with the lens hood on?

Amazon was running a promotion so I got the basic Tiffen UV filter free with the lens purchase. Is there any reason to use a UV filter on it?

What's the easiest way (source) to learn about spot metering? I have seen it mentioned on here, but I'm still not clear on how or when to use it when taking pictures.

I understand the basics of DOF and that it relates to what is in focus. I have an app on my phone that gives you the DOF if you input aperture, focal length and distance from subject. It then provides me a near and far distance. I assume this is the range for which objects will be in focus??? I'm just curious as to how this app could be useful when I am taking pictures, especially since I'm just learning.
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Guitarsoup
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1:10p, 1/10/12
quote:
Should I always shoot with the lens hood on?

I generally do. Helps protect it from moving objects and reduces solar flare.

quote:
Amazon was running a promotion so I got the basic Tiffen UV filter free with the lens purchase. Is there any reason to use a UV filter on it?

I only use mine if I think something will be hitting the front element. Rain, kids, paint, water, etc. I generally think they are junk, but photographers in general are pretty evenly split. Half always do and half never do.

quote:
What's the easiest way (source) to learn about spot metering? I have seen it mentioned on here, but I'm still not clear on how or when to use it when taking pictures.

It should be in Understanding Exposure by Peterson. Basically, just the little center spot of your camera will be metering. Really good for outdoors/high contrast areas. Matrix metering basically takes the average of all the light the camera sees. Spot is more accurate on the thing you put it on.

quote:
I understand the basics of DOF and that it relates to what is in focus. I have an app on my phone that gives you the DOF if you input aperture, focal length and distance from subject. It then provides me a near and far distance. I assume this is the range for which objects will be in focus??? I'm just curious as to how this app could be useful when I am taking pictures, especially since I'm just learning.

I never use those. I wouldn't worry about it. Work on your exposure and white balance first.

For a deeper depth of field:
Wide angle lens
smaller aperture (bigger number)
Further from the subject

For a shallower DOF:
telephoto lens (higher MM number)
Wider aperture (smaller number - closer to 2.8 on your lens)
Closer to the subject.

Remember those rules and you are good to go. There is no need to know exactly how much is in focus unless you are doing macro photography.
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agracer
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1:45p, 1/10/12
Aggie Q
quote:
So - has anyone done with mirrorless systems that which specifically they used to do with dslr?

http://www.sansmirror.com

You'll have to dig past the first page on his commentary, but in a nutshell he see's a lot of good and usefullness in the mirrorless sytems, but they've not replaced the pro DSLR - yet.

I think his biggest gripe is that the electronic view finder (or even the ones that only have and LCD) make it tough to do everything a DSLR can do, esp. follow action.
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jbirdag96
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11:04a, 1/12/12
Canon EF 50 mm f/1.4 USM Standard Lens
Canon EF 75-300MM f/4-5.6 III USM Telephoto Zoom Lens

We currently have a Canon 60D with these 2 lenses. I've enjoyed using both, but have run into some minor inconveniences with taking close-ups. Thinking about this one to deal with that:

EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Standard Zoom Lens

Suggestions/comments?
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Seven11
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11:12a, 1/12/12
Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 is a much better lens. What exactly do you mean by "close ups", and in what way is your 50mm falling short?
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jbirdag96
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11:25a, 1/12/12
There have been times when I wanted to get closer than the 50mm allowed me to. There's a point where the subject is too close to focus (auto or manual). As I mentioned, this isn't a HUGE deal, but one that I'd like opinions on. I don't have as many years of photography under my belt as many of you here do.
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Guitarsoup
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11:31a, 1/12/12
Are you talking about macro shots? Like of a flower or bug or something?
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jbirdag96
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11:35a, 1/12/12
Not necessarily, I don't care to be right up on the subject, but closer than the 50mm allows. I didn't think I'd need a macro lens for that.
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Guitarsoup
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11:37a, 1/12/12
Marcos are for focusing closer. Most will focus at 9-18inches away.

Do you mean wider, like get a whole room into a frame?

Or tighter? Zoom in a lot?
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jbirdag96
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11:41a, 1/12/12
tighter...zoom in
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Aggie Q
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12:00p, 1/12/12
New sigma macro announced: APO Macro 180mm F2.8 EX DG OS HSM

Other sigmas are in the pipeline too says the nets
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jbirdag96
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12:07p, 1/12/12
That's a nice looking lens. Would like to know what they are pricing it at.
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Aggie Q
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12:24p, 1/12/12
Look at the 150 f/2.8, they have it listed as $1600. I'd bet the 180 f/2.8 will be somewhere in the $1700-$1900 range.
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jbirdag96
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12:28p, 1/12/12
whoah....don't think I'll get the "financial advisor" approval for that.

How bout this one?

Canon EF 100 mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens price $539
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Guitarsoup
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12:30p, 1/12/12
What are you trying to take pictures of?

Why does or doesn't the 70-300mm lens work for that?

What are you trying to improve?
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Aggie Q
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12:33p, 1/12/12
Yeah, I'm cleared to buy new eneloop's... but a $1600 lens is years away
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khkman22
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12:49p, 1/12/12
quote:
There have been times when I wanted to get closer than the 50mm allowed me to. There's a point where the subject is too close to focus (auto or manual).

Was a little confused the first time I read through, but you're basically saying there may be a situation where you are indoors and can't move any farther back so you would like a lens that is wider than 50mm. And then sometimes you would like to be able to zoom in closer because you can't get repositioned fast enough or at all?
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jbirdag96
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3:01p, 1/12/12
That's pretty much it khkman22. I ran into that issue at a recent family gathering. As mentioned, it wasn't a big deal, but got me to thinking of different lenses.

After doing some additional research, I read that the prime lens is considerably better than the standard zoom lens I mentioned. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seemed as though they were saying the prime lens would develop one's photography skills much better.
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khkman22
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3:33p, 1/12/12
You may want to look at the Tamron 28-75 2.8. It doesn't give you a lot of range one way or the other over your 50mm, but it would help a little. Depends on your price range as well. It is about $450 and also currently has a $25 rebate. Other than that, I'm not sure what would be a good zoom lens, that I assume would primarily be an indoor use lens? It depends on if you prefer greater zoom range or larger/fixed aperture.
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