introducing the Canon EOS C300
[Sticky] Digital Camera FAQ
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Last: 11 yr ago by Ag CPA
also FINALLY the RED Scarlet at only $10,000. RED is going to kill the canon c300($16K). Scarlet shoots 4K video and 5K stills for you wedding photographers.
Deciding between Nikon D5100 or Canon T3i; does one of these cameras have better video than the other?
tia
tia
The Canon should have better video, but if video is your primary concern, I wouldn't get a DSLR for it. You will pay several times the cost of the camera for all the accessories to make it not seem like an out of focus Blair Witch mess.
Is this a good deal?
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-T2i-Digital-3-0-Inch-18-55mm/dp/B0035FZJHQ
I'm thinking about getting into photography and want an entry level DSLR.
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-T2i-Digital-3-0-Inch-18-55mm/dp/B0035FZJHQ
I'm thinking about getting into photography and want an entry level DSLR.
Soup, I saw that you recommended the Canon Powershot Elph SD 890 IS for a PNS. Is that still your favorite, or is there a newer model you like?
Thanks.
Thanks.
ttt
Guitarsoup,
What do you think about this camera & lens for volleyball?
EOS Rebel T3i Digital Camera W/EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens
What do you think about this camera & lens for volleyball?
EOS Rebel T3i Digital Camera W/EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens
If the volleyball is indoor, the lens won't work at all.
85mm 1.8 is probably your best bet lens for indoor volleyball at a decent price.
85mm 1.8 is probably your best bet lens for indoor volleyball at a decent price.
thanks
For those looking at mirrorless cameras, Thom Hogan (big Nikon guy) has a nice web site set up for just that subject. He covers a lot of the models out there (Fuji, Olympus, Nikon, etc.)
http://www.sansmirror.com/
Reviews, articles, etc.
http://www.sansmirror.com/
Reviews, articles, etc.
Guitarsoup,
Will the Tamron 70-200mm 2.8 work for indoor volleyball and "infield" baseball?
Will the Tamron 70-200mm 2.8 work for indoor volleyball and "infield" baseball?
A 85 1.8 will let in about 1.5x more light for the volleyball. Hard to say how dark it will be in there. Sometimes 2.8 is fine, sometimes it isn't. For infield baseball and you are in the dugout or something, 70-200 is about right, but won't be long enough for the far side of the field (3b from 1st dugout)
200mm gets you a nice tight shot from about 20 meters.
200mm gets you a nice tight shot from about 20 meters.
I am looking to buy my wife a point and shoot camera and I am trying to decide between two of them. I am looking at the Canon ELPH 300 HS and the Canon Powershot S95. We are casual photographers...just going to use it for vacations and such. We don't have kids either.
I'm not sure about the video thing...I know the 300 has 1080p video and the S95 can only do 720p. We have a camera that we usually record video on so I don't think this is really a factor. Although, if anybody has any thoughts on this that would be helpful.
Between the two, which camera has better picture quality?
I read that the 300 can zoom farther but is it really a big difference between the S95 zoom capability?
Any other thoughts or questions are welcome. I just want to make sure I am getting the best between the two.
I'm not sure about the video thing...I know the 300 has 1080p video and the S95 can only do 720p. We have a camera that we usually record video on so I don't think this is really a factor. Although, if anybody has any thoughts on this that would be helpful.
Between the two, which camera has better picture quality?
I read that the 300 can zoom farther but is it really a big difference between the S95 zoom capability?
Any other thoughts or questions are welcome. I just want to make sure I am getting the best between the two.
S95 has a better lens. If you can afford getting it's latest version, the S100, you'll also get 1080p video.
ttt
Guitarsoup,
I placed my order today with B&H; per your suggestion went with the 85 mm 1.8 for gym sports.
They suggested lens filters as added protection so I got them. Was that a good move on my part?
Thanks
I placed my order today with B&H; per your suggestion went with the 85 mm 1.8 for gym sports.
They suggested lens filters as added protection so I got them. Was that a good move on my part?
Thanks
I'm sure some filters are good for some reasons, but I like to think aboutnit this way: why spend so much money on a lens with nice expensive glass, if I'm just going to cove it with a $30 piece of plastic.
But again, in some situations a filter is good.
But again, in some situations a filter is good.
I use polarizing filters and neutral density filters if the situation calls for it. I don't use any other filter unless I think I need extra protection (like shooting in the ocean or with kids grabbing my lens.)
Random question, but what would be an instance to use a 10+ second exposure?
I didn't shoot these:
To show the movement of water
To show a star trail:
To get car headlights screaming
To show the movement of water
To show a star trail:
To get car headlights screaming
This is a 30 second exposure from my classroom. Still probably underexposed. (What's going on- light is entering the classroom ONLY through a pinhole in one of the windows. The effect is what's called camera obscura - a 10 second exposure wouldn't collect enough light).
What is the differences, pros, cons of Elements vs Lightroom?
Elements is like Photoshop Jr. Lightroom is more for mass processing.
For printing purposes, what size should I shoot pictures in? (t1i, 15.1 mp)
Mainly portraits, never ( or very, very rarely) will print larger than 8.5x11, and mostly 4x6.
Mainly portraits, never ( or very, very rarely) will print larger than 8.5x11, and mostly 4x6.
Memory is cheap. I would never shoot less than full resolution. Never know when you are going to want to blow it up or crop something out. A lot easier to do when you have move pixels.
On page one, what were the camera settings for the running back picture in the dof section?
The aperture was 2.8. No clue what the rest were. That was taken in 2005. Doesn't really matter, because your settings will change with changes in light.
The wife surprised me with the Canon 430 exii flash for Christmas. I own the Sigma 30mm 1.4 and the two combined have produced some of the best shots I have taken to date. I am very pleased and am having a blast with all the bouncing and different lighting angles.
How is it that one of the most useful threads in texags.com history can't be made a real sticky?
It was a sticky for a very long time but was demoted during the summer.
For the Canon 40D, will the 30MB/s memory cards work fine? The specs on Canon's site don't say what the actual write speed for the camera is, just that you can get ~75 jpeg and ~17 RAW with the buffer. I don't plan on shooting that many continuous shots in either format, but I want to make sure the memory card doesn't wind up limiting me to numbers that are much less than that.
You either need a class 6 or class 10 card. Look for the "class" rating, not the speed on the card.
FINALLY finished reading this thread (over the course of a few weeks).
I know it's been discussed several times in here, but does someone have a good, in-depth explanation of ISO? I understand Aperture and Shutter Speed, but ISO doesn't make much sense to me. And how do you know when to use which ISO? I guess I understand low #'s for daylight and high #'s for indoor/night. But what about cloudy days, bright rooms, etc.? Is it just something you need to fool around with until it looks right?
Also, a little help on the exposure compensation (+/- spectrum looking thing). Is this basically just a tool to quickly change the exposure without having to change all the settings?
I know it's been discussed several times in here, but does someone have a good, in-depth explanation of ISO? I understand Aperture and Shutter Speed, but ISO doesn't make much sense to me. And how do you know when to use which ISO? I guess I understand low #'s for daylight and high #'s for indoor/night. But what about cloudy days, bright rooms, etc.? Is it just something you need to fool around with until it looks right?
Also, a little help on the exposure compensation (+/- spectrum looking thing). Is this basically just a tool to quickly change the exposure without having to change all the settings?
ISO is basically how sensitive the sensor is to light.
When you double the ISO, you make the sensor twice as sensitive to light. When you half the ISO, you make it half as sensitive to light. When you increase the sensor sensitivity, you can use a faster shutter speed, but the higher ISO number will give you more noise in the picture, which is generally considered undesirable.
So all you are doing when you take a picture is deciding how much light you want to capture and you have three ways to regulate that light.
1. Shutter speed. This is how long the sensor is open to the light source. Faster shutter = less light
2. Aperture. This is the actual opening that lets light in the camera. Bigger number = less light.
3. ISO. Sensor sensitivity. Smaller number = less light.
The reason aperture is different than the other two (bigger number=less light rather than the other way around) is because the aperture is a ratio.
A 50mm f/1.0 lens has a 50mm opening for light. So it is 1:1. A 50mm f/1.4 lens has a ~35mm opening for light (did I do the math correct?) And the difference in those two openings is double.
But rather than calculating the area of the opening of each lens, it is easier to remember the aperture values. 1.0 1.4 2.0 2.8 4 5.6 8 etc
When you double the ISO, you make the sensor twice as sensitive to light. When you half the ISO, you make it half as sensitive to light. When you increase the sensor sensitivity, you can use a faster shutter speed, but the higher ISO number will give you more noise in the picture, which is generally considered undesirable.
So all you are doing when you take a picture is deciding how much light you want to capture and you have three ways to regulate that light.
1. Shutter speed. This is how long the sensor is open to the light source. Faster shutter = less light
2. Aperture. This is the actual opening that lets light in the camera. Bigger number = less light.
3. ISO. Sensor sensitivity. Smaller number = less light.
The reason aperture is different than the other two (bigger number=less light rather than the other way around) is because the aperture is a ratio.
A 50mm f/1.0 lens has a 50mm opening for light. So it is 1:1. A 50mm f/1.4 lens has a ~35mm opening for light (did I do the math correct?) And the difference in those two openings is double.
But rather than calculating the area of the opening of each lens, it is easier to remember the aperture values. 1.0 1.4 2.0 2.8 4 5.6 8 etc
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