Yeah, my friend who has that camera had well over 100k clicks on it before he had it serviced.
[Sticky] Digital Camera FAQ
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Last: 11 yr ago by Ag CPA
That is a lot of use on a 30D. But that and the 20D were absolute work horses, which is why I still suggest them.
Yeah, anything I should check on it before I decide to buy?
It has a warranty and he is someone you know - I'm guessing someone you trust. Make sure the buttons and wheels work. Use a lens and take some pics. See that it is focusing accurately. If the shutter sounds the same with every click, that is good.
That's about the most you can do.
That's about the most you can do.
based on the previous 58 pages you should probably make sure the flash shoe works. (i have yet to follow my own advice)
__________________________________
"Guns don't kill people, I kill people."
__________________________________
"Guns don't kill people, I kill people."
The wife has gotten involved with the decision making process and...now we're looking at the Canon 50D vs. Nikon D90.
Safe to assume those have been compared in the previous 57 pages?
Safe to assume those have been compared in the previous 57 pages?
Both are great cameras. Whatever feels better in your hands. Personally, I would probably get a 40D over the 50D for the savings.
But the lens is more important. Canon has better and less expensive prosumer lenses like the 70-200 F4 and 17-40 F4 that Nikon doesn't carry.
[This message has been edited by Guitarsoup (edited 5/17/2010 10:40p).]
But the lens is more important. Canon has better and less expensive prosumer lenses like the 70-200 F4 and 17-40 F4 that Nikon doesn't carry.
[This message has been edited by Guitarsoup (edited 5/17/2010 10:40p).]
GS, just out of curiosity...when the counter cycles back over to 0001 that means you have gone through 10K clicks, right? Mine cycled over this weekend for the first time on my 5D.
I guess so. I will reset the counter manually sometimes for certain events, so I really have no clue what I am at. I am guessing about 8k on my 5D2, and I bought it with about 2k.
quote:
But the lens is more important. Canon has better and less expensive prosumer lenses like the 70-200 F4 and 17-40 F4 that Nikon doesn't carry.
The Sigma 70-200/2.8 is just as good (even you've said this), and a stop faster than the Canon 70-200/f4 and only $250 more new. The Tamron 17-50/2.8 is just over half the price of the Canon 18-40 and, from what I've read, a very good lens - and faster.
NOTE: Adorama has the Sigma used for $650 right now.
So for the same money, he could get the same coverage in Nikon, and stop faster with both lenses.
If he does not want to go wide, he can get the Tamron 28-75/2.8 which is also a very good lens (and faster -
The Sigma isn't as sharp and doesn't focus as fast as the L and has worse CA. But it is a very good lens, if you need 2.8. I do recommend it. If you aren't going to be dealing with low light issues, the 70-200 4L is a fantastic lens.
30% more is a pretty big jump. That's almost the Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 used. But it all comes down to what you need.
30% more is a pretty big jump. That's almost the Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 used. But it all comes down to what you need.
The Tamron 17-50 is crop cam only, the Canon 17-40L is EF.
http://texags.com/main/forum.reply.asp?topic_id=1619592&forum_id=30
Before I get too deep into my research, fill me in on something based off the thread I scanned above...
If I am a beginner and have about $1200 to blow on everything, I should buy a used body and new lenses?? That way I just upgrade the body?
I plan to shoot while flying, on ground landscape, and lots of portraits.
I used to dabble with my old 35MM, but the cost of developing film lost my interest.
Before I get too deep into my research, fill me in on something based off the thread I scanned above...
If I am a beginner and have about $1200 to blow on everything, I should buy a used body and new lenses?? That way I just upgrade the body?
I plan to shoot while flying, on ground landscape, and lots of portraits.
I used to dabble with my old 35MM, but the cost of developing film lost my interest.
I'd buy used lenses/used body. Let someone else pay the depreciation.
I know you have said that you would still recommend a 20D for someone on a tight budget, but do you have a price point differential of what is the better value between a 20D and 30D? Just looking at some of the photography-on-the.net classifieds, you may be able to get a pretty good condition 30D for $350 or so. On B&H, they have a 9/10 20D for $289 and just sold an 8+ or 9/10 30D for $419. Then on KEH, they have the bargain 30D for $325 when it is in stock and an EX+ 30D for $415 right now.
Based on this review http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos30d/, how big of a deal are the upgrades on the 30D that are highlighted in green to someone who will just be starting to learn? Primarily the ISO steps, image parameters and the custom image parameters. The other improvements, other than liking the bigger screen on the 30D, aren't really that important to me. Also, the 20D shutter life is not rated, so can we assume it is probably 100,000 or maybe is it only 50,000?
Based on this review http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos30d/, how big of a deal are the upgrades on the 30D that are highlighted in green to someone who will just be starting to learn? Primarily the ISO steps, image parameters and the custom image parameters. The other improvements, other than liking the bigger screen on the 30D, aren't really that important to me. Also, the 20D shutter life is not rated, so can we assume it is probably 100,000 or maybe is it only 50,000?
http://columbia.craigslist.org/pho/1723638402.html
Like this?
Nikon D90, purchased 4/26/10. I bought this body to use with my older Nikon 80-200 2.8 lens, the lens is malfunctioning so I've decided to sell this D90 body. I shot one baseball game with this body on 4/30/10, it has a total of 492 shutter actuations on it at this time. I have the box and all included accesories that came with the camera. The warranty card has not been filled out yet. I really love the way the camera handles but I can't justify keeping it when all of my other equipment is Canon. I also have a 4gb SD card that will go with the camera. Serious inquiries only please. 795.00 cash.
Like this?
Nikon D90, purchased 4/26/10. I bought this body to use with my older Nikon 80-200 2.8 lens, the lens is malfunctioning so I've decided to sell this D90 body. I shot one baseball game with this body on 4/30/10, it has a total of 492 shutter actuations on it at this time. I have the box and all included accesories that came with the camera. The warranty card has not been filled out yet. I really love the way the camera handles but I can't justify keeping it when all of my other equipment is Canon. I also have a 4gb SD card that will go with the camera. Serious inquiries only please. 795.00 cash.
khkman- I got one of those BGN 30Ds from KEH. VERY HAPPY.
fly army- I just got a used 30D, used Tamron 28-75, refurbished canon 70-300 IS, and 16GB CF card for under your price target.
Heck, you could spend <$400 on a 20D, nifty fifty, and small memory card!
On another note, I just got a Crumpler 6 Million Dollar Home bag and like it a lot! My little Lowepro was too small once I got the zoom lens.
__________________________________
"Guns don't kill people, I kill people."
fly army- I just got a used 30D, used Tamron 28-75, refurbished canon 70-300 IS, and 16GB CF card for under your price target.
Heck, you could spend <$400 on a 20D, nifty fifty, and small memory card!
On another note, I just got a Crumpler 6 Million Dollar Home bag and like it a lot! My little Lowepro was too small once I got the zoom lens.
__________________________________
"Guns don't kill people, I kill people."
Gator, where did you get the 28-75? That one is relatively hard to find and they seem to go pretty fast. Mind saying what you paid for it? Also I would look at getting the 50mm 1.8, but I don't know how good it would be for just taking pictures of the kids around the house with respect to not having a zoom. I know the quality would be good, but would it be a hassle to have to step forward or backward to get the right focal distance instead of just rotating the zoom on the lens?
henri cartier.breeson is oone of the greatest photographers in history and he never used anything other than a fifty
I have used my 50mm indoors on my kiddos for the last three years...it works just fine! 
I actually find it easier to move with kids rather than try to zoom, but that's just me.
[This message has been edited by rachag03 (edited 5/21/2010 10:31p).]
I actually find it easier to move with kids rather than try to zoom, but that's just me.
[This message has been edited by rachag03 (edited 5/21/2010 10:31p).]
I found it buried a few pages back on the fredmiranda buy/sell forums. $340 shipped/insured to the casa. It was tough to find. Also, I will say it was tough to find and you could get it new on Amazon for ~$440.
__________________________________
"Guns don't kill people, I kill people."
__________________________________
"Guns don't kill people, I kill people."
It was awhile ago, but I got my Tamron 28-75 off bhphoto used for $279 + shipping. They have some pretty good used deals from time to time if you keep an eye open.
Hey, what are yall's opinions on the Nikon D5000? I want to get started with dSLRs but don't want to spend a ton of money. I saw this camera as a package deal at Sam's Club for like $699 and it includes a lens. Is this a decent camera to get started with?
i found a bundle package on amazon for a Rebel XS and 2 lenses for a decent price(also saw a similar deal on Nikon D3000). I know you said that the kit lenses arent very good, but im going to tanzania in july and would like to have some zoom for that. for everything else i think i'd get a good 50mm like you suggested. good idea? bad idea? banninate me?
[This message has been edited by heddleston (edited 5/22/2010 6:07p).]
[This message has been edited by heddleston (edited 5/22/2010 6:07p).]
i'm shooting an XSi with the new 18-55IS kit lens, the 50mm, and the 55-250IS. does everything I need when i'm outside.
I don't suppose anyone with a 30d(or similar) would be interested in upgrading to a 1d MkII. I've lost my job and need to free up a bit of cash(trying to get myself in shape to go to the PD). I don't want to give up my SLR's, But I certainly would take a 30d and cash in trade for it.
It hurts to post that even, I have LOVED this camera, especially out trekking in Costa Rica.
It hurts to post that even, I have LOVED this camera, especially out trekking in Costa Rica.
quote:
Hey, what are yall's opinions on the Nikon D5000?
IMO that any of the consumer line of Nikon/Cannon low cost DLSR's are fine for what most people want them for. A few action shots of the kids, b-day parties, family events and such.
The D5000 will be a fine camera for that stuff. Just know that if you want to 'get serious' or expand your hobby, you are going to have to upgrade your body at some point b/c the D5000 won't work with all Nikon lenses, the focusing/metering isn't as good as the higher end line, etc. If you do upgrade, and you only have that single lens, you can easily convert to a Canon if you want b/c that 18-55 lens is not going to hold you to Nikon.
But I'd guess you'll have it for years and be happy. Almost all the new lenses now will work with that camers, but some of the older ones (like the 80-200/2.8) will not.
Read here D5000
[This message has been edited by agracer (edited 5/24/2010 10:37a).]
What Racer said about the D5000 is right on point.
I want to emphasize that not all Nikon lenses work with this camera. (Well, they work, but won't auto focus.)
If you aren't going to bother to learn how to use it manually, and just stick with the kit lenses they include in the box, your pictures will be indistinguishable from those taken with a high-end point and shoot. Not worth the money or hassel.
I want to emphasize that not all Nikon lenses work with this camera. (Well, they work, but won't auto focus.)
If you aren't going to bother to learn how to use it manually, and just stick with the kit lenses they include in the box, your pictures will be indistinguishable from those taken with a high-end point and shoot. Not worth the money or hassel.
i found a refurbed nikon D60 for a good price. Im looking at getting the 35mm 1.8 to learn with, and then getting a cheap 300mm to hold me over for my safari shots this summer. wont do jack squat other than solid daylight, but a good 200/300mm is way outside my price range right now as im getting started. i love the pics my Canon S2 IS takes, but im ready to bump it up a notch.
D60 has the same problems as the D5000 - not all lenses work with it. Double check before you take the plunge.
yeah i did a ton of research, and finally learned to look for the AF-S in the model name. the 70-300mm is a sigma, but it said in the product description that it was compatible
From my D5000 link above, the only lenses that will work on the D5000 and D60
Sigma's web site says all the 70-300's work with the D60 as the Nikon version has a motor drive built in.
[This message has been edited by agracer (edited 5/24/2010 12:59p).]
quote:
All Nikkor lenses marked with AF-S.
All Sigma lenses marked with HSM.
All Tamron lenses marked with NII at the end of their model number (e.g. the Tamron 17-50mm (A16NII), 18-200mm (A14NII), 18-250mm (A18NII), 28-75mm f/2.8 (AO9NII), and 70-300mm (A17NII)).
Sigma's web site says all the 70-300's work with the D60 as the Nikon version has a motor drive built in.
[This message has been edited by agracer (edited 5/24/2010 12:59p).]
I went to a Ritz camera today to get the feel for a few cameras. I saw the issues with the lens for the D5000. However, when I felt the D90, it was lighter and felt better/bigger in my hands. I can't justify spending that much on just the body, but it was an eye opener.
Anyway, I got confused about something...
The AF-S means there is a motor in the lens right? But if you are using an internal motor is it as 'fast' focusing as the motor in the lens?
Should I want a camera with an internal motor and just get lenses w/o? Or do I want a motor in both?
[This message has been edited by Fly Army 97 (edited 5/24/2010 7:53p).]
Anyway, I got confused about something...
The AF-S means there is a motor in the lens right? But if you are using an internal motor is it as 'fast' focusing as the motor in the lens?
Should I want a camera with an internal motor and just get lenses w/o? Or do I want a motor in both?
[This message has been edited by Fly Army 97 (edited 5/24/2010 7:53p).]
The motor in the lens is a faster focusing system. The in-body is the older style, and slower.
After selling them for a while, if it was me buying nikon, I'd want a body wiht the ability to do both, as there is some great older glass floating around cheaply.
[This message has been edited by Ag_of_08 (edited 5/24/2010 8:06p).]
After selling them for a while, if it was me buying nikon, I'd want a body wiht the ability to do both, as there is some great older glass floating around cheaply.
[This message has been edited by Ag_of_08 (edited 5/24/2010 8:06p).]
Fly Army
Just to clear up a few things.
Those are two different things.
Most newer auto-focus lenses have a focus motor built into the lens and a generally very quick. The camera simply sends a signal to the lens to 'focus' and the lens responds.
Older auto-focus lenses have no motor and rely on a small motor inside the camera body, which has a drive shaft (of sorts) at the lens mount on the body that will "drive" the focus on the lens. Sort of like a power take off on a tractor.
So, electronic signal to focus motor inside lens vs electronic signal to focus motor to drive shaft to lens.
Internal Motors built into the lens on all Nikkor and Cannon lenses are much faster than any lens that does not have a internal focus motor where the camera does the work.
There is no such thing as a lens that has an interal motor and also the camera motor drives the lens. Either it's one or the other, not both.
Did that make sense?
quote:
Should I want a camera with an internal motor and just get lenses w/o? Or do I want a motor in both?
Just to clear up a few things.
Those are two different things.
Most newer auto-focus lenses have a focus motor built into the lens and a generally very quick. The camera simply sends a signal to the lens to 'focus' and the lens responds.
Older auto-focus lenses have no motor and rely on a small motor inside the camera body, which has a drive shaft (of sorts) at the lens mount on the body that will "drive" the focus on the lens. Sort of like a power take off on a tractor.
So, electronic signal to focus motor inside lens vs electronic signal to focus motor to drive shaft to lens.
Internal Motors built into the lens on all Nikkor and Cannon lenses are much faster than any lens that does not have a internal focus motor where the camera does the work.
There is no such thing as a lens that has an interal motor and also the camera motor drives the lens. Either it's one or the other, not both.
Did that make sense?
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