[Sticky] Digital Camera FAQ - Page 4

Stymied

Joined: Dec 14, 2003

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As GS mentioned above, he found his 70-200 for around 550 used so it can be done. You just have to keep your eyes open.

Look at KEH & B&H's used lenses regularly and you might get lucky.

[This message has been edited by AeroAg2003 (edited 6/25/2007 12:46p).]

austinmom

Joined: Jan 2, 2005

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4:45p, 6/25/07

Here is my dilemma... I currently own a Canon EOS Rebel film camera kit with an extra Canon 75-300 lens. I also own a Fugi 2 MP digital camera. I am going to Alaska in Aug. and want to buy something now so I can practice. Should I buy a Canon XT, or a Canon point & shoot or something in between. I love to take pictures and enjoy good quality, but like to keep things pretty simple. Advice, please...

Stymied

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5:41p, 6/25/07

My initial gut reaction is that you should get a newer digital point and shoot. A few questions you should ask yourself to help make your decision...

Do you ever miss the "control" provided by your film Rebel? Did you ever take pictures using a mode other than the picture modes or the "P" mode on your Rebel?

If your answer to both of these questions is no, I think you would enjoy a P&S shoot better. The quality you can get from modern digital cameras is very good. If I handed a XT and a good P&S to a novice, I would suggest that the P&S would meet if not surpass the XT in most cases.

Guitarsoup

Joined: Oct 3, 2001

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7:44p, 6/25/07

http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/ProductList.aspx?Mode=&item=0&ActivateTOC2=&ID=10&BC=CE&BCC=1&CC=9&CCC=2&BCL=&GBC=&GCC=
KEH has two Sigma 70-200 2.8

http://www.sigma4less.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=15468052d6dc3cb/shopdata/0010_Lenses/0010_Zoom/0040_Tele+Zoom/product_details.shopscript?article=0190_Sigma%2BZoom%2BTelephoto%2B70-200mm%2Bf%3D26slash%3D3B2%3D252E8%2BEX%2BDG%2BMacro%2BAPO%2BHSM%2BAutofocus%2BLens%2Bfor%2BCanon%2BEOS%2B%3D28SG70200F28DMCA%3D29
Sigma4less.com Provides good service, but they are selling gray market lenses. I have bought from them and never had a problem.

quote:
Here is my dilemma... I currently own a Canon EOS Rebel film camera kit with an extra Canon 75-300 lens. I also own a Fugi 2 MP digital camera. I am going to Alaska in Aug. and want to buy something now so I can practice. Should I buy a Canon XT, or a Canon point & shoot or something in between. I love to take pictures and enjoy good quality, but like to keep things pretty simple.

Depends on your budget, I guess. If you don't mind spending on the Digital Rebel, I would get that. If you want to get a good point N shoot for 150-200, it is possible.

OldArmy07

Joined: Oct 15, 2006

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1:40p, 6/26/07

Can anyone recommend any books that will help teach me how to get the most out of my XTi?

I'm also looking for a class to take in the Allen/Plano area. Collin County Community College has one for 120 bucks that's 6 weeks long, do you think it would be helpful? That is really cheap for that long of a class. If you can recommend another class that'd be great too.

Guitarsoup

Joined: Oct 3, 2001

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3:22p, 6/26/07

I've read a ton of books. If you want to shoot sports, get the Digital Sports Photography by Newman Lowrance.

agracer

Joined: Oct 26, 1999

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3:21p, 6/29/07

quote:
I'm also looking for a class to take in the Allen/Plano area. Collin County Community College has one for 120 bucks that's 6 weeks long, do you think it would be helpful? That is really cheap for that long of a class. If you can recommend another class that'd be great too.

When I got my SLR 8-years ago I took a class at the local Juco and it was very helpful. Help me understand better how to use the apature/shutter speed/ISO and how those all relate to each to other. The photo assignments each week were also fun to do, and then see everyone elses stuff each week.

So I guess I'd say yes. Assuming the instructor has even a hint of knowledge, it will help you understand how to use the camera better.

Stymied

Joined: Dec 14, 2003

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1:19p, 7/5/07

ttt

OldArmy07

Joined: Oct 15, 2006

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2:39p, 7/5/07

I love this thread. ttt to make sure it stays stickied.

BusterAg

Joined: Jul 21, 2000

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5:22p, 7/16/07

bump

Tabasco

Joined: Jul 20, 2002

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1:59a, 7/26/07

Tabasco

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9:37p, 8/8/07

Just ordered the Canon 70-200L f/4 IS. I'll let you know what I think if anyone is interested.

Guitarsoup

Joined: Oct 3, 2001

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9:44p, 8/8/07

I have heard great things about that lens.

agracer

Joined: Oct 26, 1999

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8:25a, 8/9/07

Even Ken Rockwell loves it 70-200/f4IS

Tabasco

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11:55a, 8/9/07

Thanks... hadn't seen that review.

Guitarsoup

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1:53p, 8/9/07

GSoup > Ken Rockwell

Brush Country Ag

Joined: Dec 1, 2002

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6:31p, 8/10/07

Guitar--about the 200mm lense that yall are talking about---what does 200mm equate to as far as power--ie 3X, 6X etc ?? Also, does the f number on that particular lense mean it will do well in low light applications ?? Again, I am interested in wildlife photos.

Guitarsoup

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2:57a, 8/11/07

quote:
Guitar--about the 200mm lense that yall are talking about---what does 200mm equate to as far as power--ie 3X, 6X etc ?? Also, does the f number on that particular lense mean it will do well in low light applications ?? Again, I am interested in wildlife photos.

You can't really equate it to a specific power like a PnS. The widest PnS lenses can be ~5-10mm.

On a Canon cropped (1.6x) digital SLR, 35mm is about the natural human view. Anything smaller than that is wider.

On a film SLR, a 50mm lens is about the natural human view.

Most point and shoots will be a 3-4x zoom and will be effectively 30-120mm on a film camera.

The 70-200mm zoom will feel like a 112-320mm lens on a film camera, because of the 1.6x crop.

F/4 is pretty good for low light, but a F/2.8 would be better. You could get a Sigma 70-200mm 2.8 for about the same price (or cheaper) as the Canon 70-200mm F/4 IS. The IS will help with stationary objects in low light, but cannot do anything for moving objects in low light. I prefer my 2.8 lens without IS.

For wildlife, you probably want a longer lens. I suggest looking into the Sigma 50-500mm lens. It will also be in the 7-800 dollar range.

Guitarsoup

Joined: Oct 3, 2001

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3:00a, 8/11/07

http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=105

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?shs=sigma+50-500&ci=0&sb=ps&pn=1&sq=desc&InitialSearch=yes&O=catalog.jsp&A=search&Q=*&bhs=t

http://www.sigma4less.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=1546bd5e34a5855/shopdata/0010_Lenses/0010_Zoom/0040_Tele+Zoom/product_details.shopscript?article=0050_Sigma%2BZoom%2BNormal-Telephoto%2B50-500mm%2Bf%3D26slash%3D3B4-6%3D252E3%2BEX%2BAPO%2BDG%2BHSM%2BAutofocus%2BLens%2Bfor%2BCanon%2BEOS%2B%3D28SG50500F4DCA%3D29

Oh Four Five

Joined: Feb 16, 2003

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3:00p, 8/15/07

GS,

Can you recommend a good tripod for a decent price? I don't really want to spend a couple hundred on one if I don't have to.

agracer

Joined: Oct 26, 1999

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9:59a, 8/16/07

then you won't get anything "decent".

Oh Four Five

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11:10a, 8/16/07

I didn't say I wouldn't spend the money. I just wanted to know if there was another option worth looking into for someone starting their first venture into DSLRs.

agracer

Joined: Oct 26, 1999

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11:02a, 8/17/07

If you just want a stable platform for taking family photo's, etc. then go buy something for $40-$50 at Best Buy.

I've got a cheapo and that's all I use it for. I'm not doing wildlife, or landscapes where having a super stable platform that will allow you to pan/scan quickly and hold your camera perfectly still when needed is necessary.

Here is a good article on 'pro' level tripods bythom.

Guitarsoup

Joined: Oct 3, 2001

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11:45a, 8/17/07

Also depends on how much you want to lug around. I have a cheapie too, but I am looking to get a better one because I do panoramas and need it.

If you want a light one, you are going to pay for a light one. A lot. Carbon fiber is expensive. I will probably get a steel one with a couple of different heads. Those tripod heads are very expensive too. Some will cost more than the tripod.

johnnynapalm

Joined: Apr 27, 2006

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3:51p, 8/21/07

I'm not a total noob, but I took some pictures this weekend outside, and it was constantly changing from cloudy to blazingly sunny. As a result, I used the Tv mode on my XTi (shutter priority) and kept it locked at 1/160, set the ISO at 400, and adjusted the exposure Ev meter manually depending on the light. I was having a really hard time getting consistantly exposed shots, and wound up with a bunch like this one:

Notice the blowout in the light colors. What should I have done differently?

Guitarsoup

Joined: Oct 3, 2001

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9:40p, 8/21/07

You can shoot manually.

On a bright day, that ISO 400 was probably a bit fast.

You will always get blowouts from time to time when you shoot in any automatic mode and you are going from shade to sun. While shooting a wedding once, I blew out the picture of the MOH and BM walking up the aisle together. They were both identical twins of the B&G. No way to save it. It just happens.

If you meter on the hot spots, the rest will be under exposed. Try to find the median and you should be good.

labmansid

Joined: Nov 22, 2004

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11:57p, 8/21/07

If you know you will be shooting a scene with lots of white or bright areas and rapidly changing light (where manual settings are less practical), try setting your exposure compensation at -0.3 or more likely -0.7 to minimize blown highlights.
I'm not sure if your particular camera has this feature, but some can be set to show blown highlights on the LCD screen by having those areas blink during review after the shot is taken. Also, watching the histogram after a shot can help identify exposure problems. After a couple of shots it's easy to tweak the exposure for future pics.

Tabasco

Joined: Jul 20, 2002

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12:53a, 8/22/07

The XTi does have the blinking blown highlights feature on the LCD.

Guitarsoup

Joined: Oct 3, 2001

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6:23p, 8/23/07

My pics from NYC recently:
http://texags.com/main/forum.reply.asp?topic_id=935304&forum_id=54

agracer

Joined: Oct 26, 1999

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9:02p, 8/26/07

If you see that you're having problems, just switch to full auto for a few shots and then see what the camera's setting are and adjust in manual from their.

Also, you can switch to RAW for those tricky light conditions and then adjust exposure compensation on the PC later on. I've saved some good photos doing that (but mostly I shoot JPEG b/c RAW can be a big time/storage waste).

GeorgiAg

Joined: Mar 13, 2000

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3:43p, 8/28/07

You guys make me feel inadequate. My camera advice is: press the power button on the top; read the manual and find out what version is automatic and press the shutter button.

I am taking some underwater scuba photos this weekend. Guess I'll have to read up on the manual some more.

agracer

Joined: Oct 26, 1999

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8:42a, 9/6/07

I thought this would be a good place to put these.

These are from the Star Wars display at the FW Science Museum. The lighting was terrible but I was able to take advantage of my camera's manual settings and my Nikkor 18-200VR lens (VR=Vibration Reduction which is IS on Cannon). In addition, everything was behind glass which made reflections a big problem, especially on some of the displays that only faced one direction. For those images (not shown) I ended up with ghost images of other people in the glass. Also, a flash in this situation would just show up as a bright light on the glass and the resultant image would look horrible. Bouncing a flash of the ceiling would probably help a bunch, but I only have the onboard flash.

There are always questions about it and I just wanted to show how it can be useful in some situations.

The first picture is a Y-Wing model used in the SW movies. ½-second exposure, F3.5, @ 18mm with VR turned on. The second is with the same settings but VR turned off. This was hand held and I had nothing to brace myself against. I just pushed my elbows against my chest/stomach, focused, exhaled slowly, then held my breath and hit the shutter release. The biggest difference is really seen in the droid. All the other images have VR turned on and ~1/2-second exposure. The Millennium Falcon was ~4-feet across, and I really should have used a smaller aperture to get it all in focus, but then my shutter speed would have been over 1-second.

Y-Wing (VR on)