[Sticky] Digital Camera FAQ

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RandomAg09
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5:34p, 2/4/09
Interesting update to the main post, GS. I was going to ask you about your use of RAW/jpeg in sports since I finally tried it. But I must ask, what led you to change from this:

quote:
wb is very important and very neglected. what you set it on totally depends on the light the camera is registering. I use custom when I have to or when I know the lights (like in stadiums I often shoot in.) I tend to correct everything in lightroom anyway, since I shoot 95% RAW
to this:
quote:
The point is that RAW is completely unnecessary for almost all applications. When I HAVE to shoot RAW, I am generally kinda pissed that I do.


[This message has been edited by RandomAg09 (edited 2/4/2009 5:35p).]
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Guitarsoup
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10:20p, 2/4/09
I have not yet updated the main post. Last update was 2/17/07. It will probably be a day or two before I finished adding and editing everything.

Tomorrow, I have a photo shoot with Mayor Ed White and Governor Rick Perry. Should be great times, but it will cut into my Texags time significantly.

The main reason I switched from JPG to RAW was Lightroom. Before Lightroom was released, it was a lot more time consuming to edit a ton of RAW pics. Now with Lightroom, it is much quicker.

I still try to get the WB correct in camera, but it isn't that bad to edit it in RAW in lightroom if I am slightly off for the set.

RAW vs JPG is just one of the things I have completely switched my stance on.
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RandomAg09
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11:02p, 2/4/09
I'm just an idiot then. I saw "updating the FAQ" and saw something I didn't remember from the last time I looked at the main post 8 months ago. That does bring up my original question of what you shoot for sports. Do you stick with jpegs if you're on a deadline or want a larger buffer, or is it still mostly RAW?
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Guitarsoup
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11:46p, 2/4/09
Stick to JPG if I think I will need the buffer. That isn't too often, but I also wish my buffer was bigger.

If I can get away with it, and know I won't need to transmit the full size jpg on deadline, I will shoot RAW+small or medium JPG and just transmit the jpg then work the RAW files and keep the full sized RAW or converted JPG.
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Guitarsoup
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10:18a, 2/5/09
Original post has been completely updated. Check it out.

I may still add a little bit here or there, but I have to go take a quick early lunch.
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agracer
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12:02p, 2/6/09
You noted that one should never use flash on camera.

I'd have to disagree. While it can 'light' a subject harshly, this can be solved by bouncing it off a ceiling.

Also, you can set the flash to manual, turn it way down and/or diffuse the light a bit with some tissue paper to soften the light when shooting directly at a subject.

Don't a lot of wedding photographers put the flash 'almost' on camera (I mean on an external mount that is attached to the camera) ??
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Smokedraw01
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1:02p, 2/6/09
I think he meant the pop-up flash.
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rachag03
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10:42p, 2/7/09
GS, thanks again for taking the time to share all of this info. This thread has really helped me over the past year. That's a heck of an update you did!

I went to the Mercer Arboretum today for the first time and it is a really great location! I got to really put my 85 to use also for the first time since getting it a couple months ago and I really like that lens.
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Ag_of_08
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1:56a, 2/8/09
GS- Do you have a though on a good wide angle prime? I've heard nice things about the 28mm f1.8 canon has to offer, but mixed reviews on most of the sigma and tamron variants. I'm finding myself in need of a nice fast wide angle lens, I think the prime would be what I'd want(and the price for fast glass is better). I would prefer not to buy another L lens at this moment, I'm not in the money at this point .
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Guitarsoup
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8:27a, 2/8/09
Show the pics Rach. I've been wanting to get out there.

08- I have the 14mm 2.8L. Excellent lens. I haven't used the 28 1.8.

Yesterday, I shot 50 GIGS of pics at a wedding. That is pretty incredible. Also, fun to go through. [/crying icon]
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Ag_of_08
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11:16a, 2/8/09
I thought 9 was bad! holy crap.....
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Stymied
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11:51a, 2/8/09
Avoid the 28 1.8 like the plague... especially if you want to shoot it wide open. It's extremely soft and is known to have some rather severe Chromatic Aberration.

While I can understand not wanting to spend L money... if you want sharp lenses wide open you usually have to spend some coin. The 14, 24 and 35 Ls are good and if you don't mind manual focusing the Nikon 14-24 or the upcoming Zeiess lenses are nice and sharp.
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Stymied
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11:56a, 2/8/09
Oh... I probably need to put a caveat on my previous post... My idea of "sharpness" does not always match others expectations.

I'm a rather "technical" photographer and probably pay closer attention to sharpness than others. I've also become more aware of lens sharpness as I've moved up the resolution ladder. 20+ mpix sensors makes things difficult even on the best lenses.
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Maximus_Meridius
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6:22p, 2/8/09
What about the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8? Would that do a good job and fit your bill, 08?

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554035-REG/Tokina_ATX116PRODXC_11_16mm_f_2_8_AT_X_116.html
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Ag_of_08
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6:30p, 2/8/09
DP

[This message has been edited by Ag_of_08 (edited 2/8/2009 6:30p).]
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Ag_of_08
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6:30p, 2/8/09
That actually might in the end.
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Rex Racer
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6:38p, 2/8/09
I have that Tokina. It is a really nice lens.

Here are some pics I took with it. I'm not a great photographer, but you can see what the lens can do.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rexracer/sets/72157606929679668/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rexracer/sets/72157606766849560/
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Ag_of_08
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7:24p, 2/8/09
it is EF and not an EF-s lens correct(if I remember right only canon put out the "-s" lenses right?)
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Stymied
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8:25p, 2/8/09
I'm pretty sure the Tokina only support 1.6x sensors. 11mm is an extremely short focal length for a 35mm sensor.
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Ag_of_08
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8:29p, 2/8/09
That's what I thought. Anything I buy has to be compatible with a 1d, which is why I was looking at the 24mm or so primes.
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Rex Racer
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10:12p, 2/8/09
Yes, per BH Photo:

"Only fits on the EOS Digital Rebel series or 40D, 30D & 20D SLR cameras"
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Maximus_Meridius
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12:00a, 2/9/09
Ah, sorry, I didn't remember what body you were using.
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Rex Racer
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8:29a, 2/9/09
I didn't, either. I have a 40D so it works great for me.
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rachag03
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8:59a, 2/9/09
GS, I posted my Mercer pics on the monster thread...I don't have many from this visit because I was scouting, but I will post more after I do my friend's pictures in March.
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Ag_of_08
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11:24a, 2/9/09
Nice thing is, smaller crop factor so the ultr wides aren't quite as mandatory. There are some drawbacks to this body, but I have enjoyed it having it immensley.


I may end up with a 24-70 f2.8L before it's all said and done with. I'm not really needing the intermedeate zoom, but I'm weighing my option between having more of my bases covered, and the speed of a good prime.


[This message has been edited by Ag_of_08 (edited 2/9/2009 11:26a).]
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yaterag
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11:37a, 2/9/09
If you decide to go L, you can spend a little more and go with a 16-35L if you want to stay at f/2.8 which seems more like what you are looking for.
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Ag_of_08
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11:41a, 2/9/09
Hadn't looked into the 16-35, that zoom range is definitely more what I'm looking at in that end.
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Guitarsoup
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12:53p, 2/9/09
I am a huge fan of the 16-35. I use is every day. It is greatness.
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caleblyn
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8:20a, 2/16/09
Is there a mathematical rule of thumb for depth of field?

i.e. Let's say I am shooting at about 10' from my subject. Is there some kind of rule you can do in your head to equate what the depth of field would be at certain apertures? Also, focal length might change this, so let's assume 50mm.


I realize that over time you just get a feel for what it is and could do this on the fly, but you need to understand that I estimate the cost of construction project every single day, so my brain is always doing some kind of calculation to figure stuff out.


tia

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Guitarsoup
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8:43a, 2/16/09
There are mathmatical rules, but I don't suggest learning them.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field#Depth_of_field_formulas
I mean, if you are really hardcore and a badass, go for it. But I just kind of eyeball it.
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caleblyn
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9:07a, 2/16/09
That is what I expected! The formulas could be learned if I were taking a test, but I was kind of hoping there was some kind of easy to remember rule.

I guess the only way to do this is practice and get a feel for it.
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Tabasco
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3:30p, 2/16/09
How about this for DOF?

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/beyond-basics/133788-simple-dof-rule-thumb.html

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caleblyn
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4:22p, 2/16/09
Very interesting!

So others don't have to read that long post...

This fella uses the following equation to come up with an aperture setting...

F-stop = 22 * DOF / H^2

DOF = depth of field desired (in feet)
H = approximate height of subject of viewfinder. Look through the viewfinder and approximate the height at the subject. Not the subject's height, but the height of the viewfinder's edge at the subject. If you are focusing on a 6-foot dude and you have him completely in the picture with about 1 foot above and 1 foot below, the H would be 8.

22 represents a coefficient based on a 1.6 crop factor camera.

An example...

H = 3 feet
Your desired DOF = 2 feet

F-Stop = 22 * 2 / 3^2
F-stop = 44 / 9
F-stop = 5



H = 1.5 feet
DOF = .25 feet (3 inches which is 1 inch in front and 2 inches behind)

F-stop = 22 * .25 / 1.5^2
F-stop = 5 / 2.25
F-stop = 2-2.8
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Guitarsoup
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9:56p, 2/16/09
So....

eyeball it. There are ways to figure it out - it is a science.

Next time you shoot portraits, bracket the aperture.

Sometimes you bracket exposure, but try bracketing the aperture setting. Maybe even try it with a still life like a bowl of fruit. Put it on Av, start at 1.8 and work your way up to F11. Have a cluttery background so you can see your object go from standing out to blending in.
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Smokedraw01
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8:03a, 2/17/09
I think this has already been discussed but what do you mean by a 1.6 crop factor?
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