The LS OBS...5.3 swap into 95 C1500 build thread.

208,464 Views | 677 Replies | Last: 3 yr ago by Silvy
Silvy
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AG
Picked up the trans yesterday, FL dude did what he said and covered cost of new parts & labor. Planning on starting the install Friday evening.

Last night I installed a GMT800 shift lever, now I'll have a tow/haul switch so it's easier to start in the desired gear during a pull. Just need to run a wire to the PCM and make sure the feature is enabled in the tune.

Video confirming the trans is in good working order.
Silvy
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And she's back on the streets, trans feels very solid.
Silvy
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Here are a couple of pulls. The first vid is from the top of 1st gear and the 2nd is starting from bottom of 2nd gear and letting out immediately after shifting into 3rd. I want to start tearing into the axle within the week to get the 4.56 gears in place of the 3.42.




moore42
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I'm confused by your tach/speedo. 1st gear takes you to ~60 mph and 2nd gear takes you to 100 mph?!?!?

Theres no way thats right.
Silvy
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My tach is off, it's only accurate till about 3k RPM, but my speedometer is not far off at all. Pairing an 80e with tall gears has that kind of effect.


moore42
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Ive never looked at gear ratios for an 80e. Didnt realize they were that much longer than 60e...at least 1st and 2nd anyway.
Silvy
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Per my pinion depth tool, I was able to get the pinion depth within .0009" of what it's supposed to be and tonight I got the backlash set at .08".

Whenever I have the chance to do more work, I'll check the pattern to confirm it's good. Then take it apart to get pinion bearing on, set pinion preload, final assembly of carrier, and another pattern check.
Centerpole90
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AG
Make Tires Smoke Again.
Silvy
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AG
First pattern



2nd & final pattern





I did all the final steps to finish the axle build today and took it out for a maiden voyage. No whining or howling when accelerating or decelerating.

I will not say that setting up my first ring and pinion was easy. Biggest PITA was getting the pinion preload right, I went with a solid pinion spacer & shims rather than a crush collar. Pinion preload is supposed to be 14-19 in/lbs, you add shims to reduce preload and take away shims to increase preload. First attempt at setting preload, I had all the shims on the pinion and had 0 in/lbs. When I removed the smallest shim (.01") , I had 40 in/lbs. I ended up ordering a different pinion spacer kit that had a larger shim selection.

I'd give doing an axle build once more. If it doesn't go more smoothly whenever I do it a 2nd time, I'll leave it to the pros. By that time, it'll be cheaper to pay someone for an afternoon of work compared to the vast number of hours I take in getting it setup.

Now, I need to drive easy for 500 miles before I can give it the beans.
Silvy
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AG
Neglected to mention that I installed a new cluster a couple months ago. Installed some Smith Racecraft Assassin Bars for traction today and have some 15x10 wheels I need to order radials for to test fit, hoping to make a couple runs at the track somewhat soon.

Silvy
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AG
Posted on my Instagram for the 2nd time today.
https://instagr.am/p/BqbAG5LBMLA
miley
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Nice to see Seawolf Parkway still being used for shenanigans. Had lots of fun times on that island.
Silvy
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AG
You must be mistaken, that's Mexico.
Silvy
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Past few nights I've been thinking about what I want to do, I drive the truck very often and have gotten to be fairly familiar with it N/A. I'm worried that once I get nitrous in, I'll get addicted and want to spray ALL the time. Nitrous bottles themselves are expensive, nitrous is expensive (even though I plan to refill myself), and it'll be time consuming to go refill the mother bottles and then fill my own.

I'm thinking about moving towards a turbo. I'll need to switch out the cam and add more fueling, enough to run e85. I can the 4.56 gears w/ turbo but it'll likely be beneficial to go down to a 4.10 or 3.90. Upfront cost of turbo will be more, but nitrous system is likely to end up costing more in long run AND I'll always have the power I want without opening a bottle.

Merry Christmas!
Centerpole90
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AG
I agree. Turbo, turbos, supercharger > nitrous

I like where this is going.
Silvy
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A nitrous kit can always be moved from car to car...I'm going to be working on a spreadsheet tomorrow comparing costs lol
Centerpole90
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This applies to me more than you but it's funny as hell and I this thread was on top.

https://instagr.am/p/Br0wmzAgR8-
Silvy
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AG


Ordered myself a LNC-2000 and new steering box for Christmas. The LNC-2000 will allow me to pull timing when I activate nitrous, but still keep all the timing in while N/A. It also acts similar to a 2 step.
Silvy
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Aggietaco
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Your lighting is so dramatic
Silvy
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Partially poor light availability and then hiding current state of garage
Silvy
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Went to the drag strip this evening. My first hit turned out to be my quickest ET, I had another pass that I had a little quicker MPH.

Traction wasn't an issue, I wasn't able to make it launch hard enough. I tried my launch control once and pushed through my brakes. Most passes I footbraked, flashing the TC wasn't much help either.

Although I anticipated 12's NA, I'm ready to order the rest of my nitrous stuff and really get down
Silvy
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Centerpole90
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What will you get those 12's down to??
Silvy
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Hard to say exactly, but 11's soon. I'll need to build up a dedicated fuel system for nitrous to spray more than a 150 shot, this eliminates the risk of pulling too much fuel from the engine. The system itself will spray a 400 shot, engine should take a 300 shot if needed.

The goal is a 10.99, I may be able to get there by increasing shot size as needed. I'd need to really utilize the progressive controller as to not blow the tires off.

I likely need to relocate shocks for a consistent 60' and want to reduce weight where I can, but maintain enough comfort for them streets.
Silvy
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AG
A few weeks ago I performed a mild burnout session and then noticed some engine noise, but wasn't able to pinpoint where it's from. Due to work I haven't been able to do much diagnostics, really just confirmed all my rockers are moving as they should.

Soon I'm hoping to cut open the oil filter and also perform a leak down test to determine if my focus is on the bottom end or top end. Oil level and pressure are both good.

Really hoping (mostly suspect), that it's a top end issue. If that's the case, I'll opt for the PRC stage 2.5 5.3 heads. These will outperform the stonk 243/799 heads I have now and also bump the compression to ~11.46:1.

I did manage to capture the aforementioned burnout on video.

Street Fighter
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Soon
Silvy
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Thursday night I started tinkering with the truck a bit and pulled off the intake. Friday afternoon I headed back down to the garage and determined it wouldn't take much to get the engine out of the bay. Well that turned into having the engine out and getting a fair bit into the tear down.

By this evening, all the valve springs have been removed/inspected along with all pistons & connecting rods removed/inspected. Still don't see anything apparent that would make a knocking like noise.

I'm torn between getting the PRC heads w/ new valve springs and installing new lifters or just go ahead and buy another block. Regardless, I'd like to get the PRC heads as they'll help with both short term and long term goals.

The longer term goal is running 10's with a Procharger & no nitrous.
Silvy
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AG
Well, shipped the heads off to Texas Speed yesterday and I'll be ordering some Johnson 2110r lifters. These lifters are said to be the cream of the crop for drop in lifters. Once the long block is assembled, I'll need to measure for push rod length as the Johnson lifters are a little shorter and call for a .035" preload compared to a .07" - .1" preload that's normally ran with LS7 type lifters.

Yesterday I pulled the balancer/timing cover and all checked out behind it. Also pulled 4 of the 5 main bearing caps and found no issues. Pulling the 5th cap would've entailed getting the block off the stand, pulling rear cover, and then getting it back on the stand.

TLDR; new heads, lifters, and prayers.
Silvy
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AG
Finally got some time this afternoon and dropped the engine back in. It's in the mounts, with bellhousing and torque converter all tight.

In the rush of bolting headers to the heads, I cross threaded the bolt at cylinder #8...the one with the least amount of clearance. ****.

Aside from unbolting the headers from heads, I left the rest of the exhaust intact when pulling the engine. I'm worried I won't be able to get the header out of the way for a drill & tap without cutting the exhaust up and I'm not so keen on pulling the engine back out since the transmission is entirely hooked back up.

Once this bolt is addressed, it should just be a night or two worth of work to fire it up.
Silvy
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Yeah, the engine will need to come back out.

MouthBQ98
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That's a mother. I was deathly afraid of that installing headers myself. Can you wiggle a threader in there and try to clean them up or did you get pretty far?
Silvy
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AG
I did try rethreading, but there's just no room to work.

Seems the safest route to go is pulling the engine...it's at least only 8 or 9 bolts right now. With it out, I'll be able to ensure I'm drilling and tapping it straight.

Although wet, looks like the next few days will be a good temp for garage work.
Tree Hugger
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Silvy
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AG
Did a brief fire up and certainly sounds the mysterious noise is gone. Now to install rad, fans, water, and clean engine bay a bit.
 
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