Any tips/tutorials on how to do this for the DIYer?

Motis B Totis said:

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I installed the micro-air soft start myself in less than an hour today. I have a single Carrier 5 ton (60,000 btu). Testing inrush amps before was 139 amps (33,000 watts). After install it's at 25 in rush amps (6,000 watts). I mounted it right on the outside of the unit.

https://www.microair.net/products/easystart-368-6-ton-soft-start-motor-starter-for-115-and-230v-ac-motors?variant=29181662283

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So your generator just needs 6000w to turn on and run the AC? I have two units 48k but and 24k btu, and I'd love to be able to run one of them off a tri-fuel generator that puts out around 6900w startup and 5500w running while on nat gas

Updated:

I installed the micro-air soft start myself in less than an hour today. I have a single Carrier 5 ton (60,000 btu). Testing inrush amps before was 139 amps (33,000 watts) on a cheap amp meter. After install it's at 45 in rush amps (11,000 watts) on the bluetooth app. I mounted it right on the outside of the unit.

https://www.microair.net/products/easystart-368-6-ton-soft-start-motor-starter-for-115-and-230v-ac-motors?variant=29181662283

I would buy a good clamp amp meter first. I found that a cheap one will miss peak amps and not give a consistent reading. Open up you a/c & familiarize yourself with the components. Test peak amps & running amps a few times on the run wire. It's the thick one on the contactor labeled 23. Buy a few electrical crimp connectors/terminals if you don't have them (flat quick connect, ring & fork). I used the youtube video link & the two manuals below and it helped a lot. After watching & reading a few times I was confident to do it myself.

To install the micro-air has 4 wires:
-orange wire plugs into an open slot on the Herm terminal on the run capacitor
-black wire is added to the contactor labeled 21
-remove the run wire & cut the terminal. Splice with crimp connector with the brown wire
-white wire goes back in place of the run wire

I'm no electrician so my terminology may be off. Before install, be sure to flip the breakers & remove the a/c service disconnect before touching wires! Also test voltage just to make sure you don't get zapped.



http://www.micro-air.com/kb-easystart/articles_installation/easystart_Home_AC_Wiring_Guide.cfm

http://www.micro-air.com/kb-easystart/articles_installation/easystart_Home_Brand_Specific_Wiring_Diagrams.cfm

Before:


After:

Motis, I did the same.

I am 3 hours into break-in. Natgas regulator is back in Michigan for re-calibration. I hope to be breaking in with line NatGas before end of next week.

What are your operating amps with a 60000btu system?

Trying to figure out if I could run my 41k btu (13SEER) unit off my 7000watt Honda.

It's the starting amps to be concerned with.

On hour 8 of break-in. Primed my BIP plumbing , ng adapter has been receieved for re-calibration.

Operating amps are 14.3 on the Bluetooth app and 11.6 on my amp. So its somewhere 3-3.5k watts after start.

Who has a decently priced electrian for the cutout install? I have the parts, but my electrician quoted me $1750. This is in an open wall, modern panel and going straight through the wall. Houston west side.

Mark Luchak, Luchak Electric
(281) 450-2673

sawemoffshort07 said:

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It's the starting amps to be concerned with.

On hour 8 of break-in. Primed my BIP plumbing , ng adapter has been receieved for re-calibration.

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My mistake for not including that. My LRA is listed at 77A. I'm hoping my generator can start the central AC but won't be the end of the world if not. Just hoping the soft start can get me below the 240V/30A rating of my generator.

reposted below....

AlaskanAg99 said:

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Who has a decently priced electrian for the cutout install? I have the parts, but my electrician quoted me $1750. This is in an open wall, modern panel and going straight through the wall. Houston west side.

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Jim devault
Southern voltage electrical services
832 713 7584

I knew this would be the case, this bad boy is fairly loud. I have been poking around for options/ideas to quiet it down (will not be in an enclosure). I was looking at a secondary muffler such as the one in the following link. Is this a terrible idea/waste of money? https://www.gensilencer.com/

Looked a little bit at these myself, but didn't know how much difference it would make. Unless you have an inverter generator your generator is gonna be loud. I didn't buy an inverter generator. I live in Beaumont. Since I bought my house 9 years ago I have had one situation where my power was out for more than 8 hours. I've decided that if I have a loud generator running for multiple days once every 5-10 years I can deal with it. This isn't for everyone or every situation. I'm real curious about something in the link you posted, whether it makes much difference.

Yea, I get that, understand and agree. Iits going to be loud and if power is out for any appreciable amount of time, all bets are off. I was just looking if there was an easy cost effective way to knock down db just a bit

I understand and agree as well. I'm curious as to how much difference a silencer would make also.

I will second Mark as a good dude that will treat you fair.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AX9R8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_YTDPBHKCDAP0R7H6V5WF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Giving this a shot

Haven't affixed yet. got my natgas adapter back recalibrated, will keep y'all posted

I have been looking at a Predator 8750 inverter generator. Has anyone here bought one and if so, What are your opinions.



Thanks in advance

I bought one during the tax holiday earlier this year. Only have a couple of break in hours on it so far, so it's hard to offer an opinion. If noise is sensitive for you, consider stepping up to their 10kW inverter as its significantly quieter due to a closed frame.

I have all of the pats for a transfer switch in my garage, just need to install.

I also need a plumber in Houston to extend a gas line ~10 ft. If anyone has a recommendation for a master plumber, I'd appreciate it. Has to be permitted, Centerpoint requires me to upload the permit before they'll upsize my meter.

So I got around to mounting and installing the natgas regulator/adapter.

I initially loosely mounted it to the frame where the propane (2nd) regulator was (the similar one to the Century product). Everything is tight and used PTFE paste on all connections. I used the fittings provided and then the integrated hose to the generator.

I gave it gas through the ball valve at the tee and it was fine. Then when I opened the ball valve at the regulator, I heard hissing that sounded like it was coming from approximately where the hose enters the generator, then the smell followed from approximately the same place. So I cut off gas at both locations. Figuring this had something to do with the spring/pin on the back, I dropped the regulator, and opened gas at both valves, no hissing or smell. So I tried to start the generator, it tried to turn 2-3 times and then stopped. Then I tried again to start the generator, but this time manually depressing the spring/pin, slowly and the generator sputtered, then I slowly depressed the spring/pin giving it more until it was down all the way and seemed to be "wide open" and the generator seemed to be getting the gas it should.

sawemoffshort07 said:

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Haven't affixed yet. got my natgas adapter back recalibrated, will keep y'all posted

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What generator is this?

So were you ever able to get it to crank on its own without manually depressing? Hopefully you can get to the point of using the remote start or the ST Switch.

Is the orifice on top of the regulator from century adjustable?

This was attempted this morning. @Rice this is the WGEN12000DF. @ag_pete thats what I was thinking and Century confirmed. It is "too lean" and not letting the generator pull a vacuum. So I will be tinkering with that and the exhaust this weekend, amongst handling our 6 week old boy.

I plan to test my a/c soft start with a neighbor's 8700 peak watt generator soon. Will build a backfeed cord into dryer plug. If I can get it started and run some lights I'll buy the predator 9500

Assumptions were correct, that spring/pin on the back controls the gas rate. So you can mount it in the spot of the original, but want to use spacers/standoffs (~3/4"), so you will need longer bolts (1/4"-20x2"), you will also need the respective nuts. Then you just need to tune in that adjustable screw on top. I just about have it, I think I'm too rich currently.

sawemoffshort07 said:

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I knew this would be the case, this bad boy is fairly loud. I have been poking around for options/ideas to quiet it down (will not be in an enclosure). I was looking at a secondary muffler such as the one in the following link. Is this a terrible idea/waste of money? https://www.gensilencer.com/

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I think the most cost effective way to cut noise is to extend the exhaust into a tube you can drop into a bucket of water. Either flex pipe or maybe a permanent drop that you slip a bucket under, then fill with water

I got a $30 walker muffler, should have a review by the end of the long weekend

Thanks. Looking forward to getting the feedback. Our electrician finally finished his installation of the cutover yesterday. The company got the wrong one for our box on Tuesday. Now all we need is the cable from the generator to the house, which should ship Monday.

Alright, so I got the natgas regulator mounted with some temporary stuff until what I really want is delivered. Anyway, it is standing off from the frame. So now to fiddle with the screw on top to tune it. Well, after I had it backed all the way out, it was still starved. So I pulled the screw and it has a cone at the bottom that takes up a majority of the volume of the void. So using myt reasoning, that cone needs to go. Its a 3/8 x 28, brass. So i went to HD to find the same, with a flat bottom, effectively a plug. There and Lowe's have only plumbing so it's based on pipe ID, you can likely get something at an auto parts store for brake port plug. I was tired of messing with it, so I just flipped it with the cone up, so the void was open. Fired right up and going strong