Talk to me about arrow setup for elk. I can see this being similar to the caliber debate and shot placement is king. But what do I need to focus on ? FOC ? Total arrow weight ? Stiffness ?

Right now shooting a black eagle rampage with a 100gr 1.25" slick trick magnum and Nockturnal lighted nock.

29" draw, 70lb bow is maxed down but it pulled like 67-68lbs when I had it checked.

I've wanted to try the g5 montecs (only 100gr) but debating if I should look into a 125gr broad head and do g5 striker. And/or a weighted insert ?

I cranked my Z7 up to 70lbs for my elk hunt and was shooting 100grain G5 Montecs. I missed the only bull I shot at, mistaking the range for 50 when he was 65 (long story - was full drawn in an open meadow and no real way to gauge distance without ranging.. I was at full draw for about 2 mins).

The other guys can weigh in with more experience on elk kills with archery but I have killed several whitetail and 250-300lb aoudad with a 100gr mechanical broad-head. My G5 Montecs flight pattern sucked compared to field points, just FYI.

All I know is most people told me they would just bounce off - but I shoot em with those 6.5CM doohickies, and they poke holes pretty good.


In all seriousness, I'm of little help to the technical aspects of your setup. I do sometimes we put a lot of stress (and $) into chasing specific numbers and fractional differences. Patience and good shot placement are the keys to me.

People were hating on Rages when I started bowhunting, especially with elk. But, I've seen them take down a half dozen in the years I've been hunting. I've also seen quite a few guys who are over confident in their setup, because of their numbers or equipment, and they force shots they shouldn't be taking. Same thing happens with the guys who buy a GunWerks rifle and a Nightforce scope, and think 1 trip to the range and a 1/2 box of shells to practice is sufficient. If you don't put the pointy end where the soft parts are, bad things happen.

I shot a bull once that had a fixed blade buried inside of him- aluminum shaft arrow that had broken off at the hide, broad head buried into his hip bone. Non-lethal, very very VERY terrible shot. Looked like someone took a quartering too shot, and just pulled it back on the animal. I'm sure it hurt like hell, and he may have succumbed to infection in the winter- but the sucker was still walking around and feeding a few months later for me to poke holes in him with a .300 Win Mag.

All that being said, if I was prowling for bulls in the mountains, I would be asking the same questions you are. Keep it up! I hope you can find the perfect set up to be confident in, and I know you will be putting the hours in that will really make the difference.

I will say, I was unimpressed with the Montec's when I started, but I know plenty of people up here who use them with no problems. They didn't fly well with my setup. I like the HellRazor for fixed, and shoot Hypodermic for mech's.

The info you have given so far sounds good. My first question would be your total arrow weight? 100gr broadhead is fine, but I'd definitely want at least 400gr total arrow weight (preferably more, but that depends on your bow speed).

Your arrow is by far the most important part so its good that you're asking in January.

Total arrow weight is what I like to focus on. I shoot for +/-265fps and build as heavy an arrow as I can to hit that number. You don't have to go quite that heavy, that's just what I like to do. The guys at the shop might look at you funny if they only kill whitetail. FOC and spine will be a derivative of that and your draw specs.

It's easier for me to tune fixed blades on slow, heavy arrows and I think they are the superior choice for elk.

If you kill an elk with an arrow you can eat him and absorb his strength.

shaynew1 said:

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If you kill an elk with an arrow you can eat him and absorb his strength.

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That's the plan!

I have some rage hypodermic NCs sitting in the closet just a little hesitant to use them given the horror stories.

Plan to hit the bow shop this week and get the arrow weighed. May be upgrading bows so will have to tune FPS and weight depending on that outcome.


Last question. Wrist strap or handheld release ?
I use wrist strap now and confident with it but was looking at a handheld you can leave clicked onto the d loop so you can have a free hand to range etc and just grab and draw.

I shoot daily so I'm confident any changes made now I can be used to it by September (assuming I even draw)

Release is pure shooter preference.

shaynew1 said:

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Release is pure shooter preference.

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I agree with my arrow-slinging broheim, per usual.

That said, I shoot a wrist strap for yeh same reason, it's what I started with and am comfortable with. However, I have thought about other options since it is sometimes a pain to have your release constantly on your wrist at times in the mountains. I haven't made any changes yet though.

I use a hand held and clip that mofo to my bino harness w one of them locking s clips when I'm not shooting.

lazuras_dc said:

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shaynew1 said:

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If you kill an elk with an arrow you can eat him and absorb his strength.

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That's the plan!

I have some rage hypodermic NCs sitting in the closet just a little hesitant to use them given the horror stories.

Plan to hit the bow shop this week and get the arrow weighed. May be upgrading bows so will have to tune FPS and weight depending on that outcome.


Last question. Wrist strap or handheld release ?
I use wrist strap now and confident with it but was looking at a handheld you can leave clicked onto the d loop so you can have a free hand to range etc and just grab and draw.

I shoot daily so I'm confident any changes made now I can be used to it by September (assuming I even draw)

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I've seen a fixed blade hit a rib and deflect off on a 45 degree quartering away shot. I've also seen an elk run-through and killed by a practice field tip that was mistakenly used in heat of moment.

I'm a big fan of Rage but you dead center a rib or shoulder and you probably won't get any penetration. In summary, I have no good answers. I'd go w what gives you the most confidence and take the responsible shots.

shaynew1 said:

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Release is pure shooter preference.

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This x100

I use a wrist strap release, because I have always been afraid to leave something clipped to by bow. Sitting in a tree stand is fine- but waking through the woods and brush... I know my luck well enough- that sucker would catch on something and blow a stalk- or I would go to draw and it would be gone. That's my primary reason for choosing a wrist strap.
That being said- I don't know anyone who has actually had that problem. Maybe an irrational fear?

I used to shoot a cheaper release that just had a nylon attachment to the buckle. I thought it would be good and out of the way when I was glassing. I hated that thing- it flopped everywhere and made some much racket. I was constantly stuffing it in a glove or under a sleeve. I switched to a TRU Ball, with the hard shaft. Much more precise adjustment, and it folds down out of the way and stays. I can silently fold it back up with just my shooting hand, and get it on the D-Loop almost without looking. Works for me.

Last question how many arrows for the day hunt- assuming you'll be able to reload at camp with plenty of spares. I can see the allure of getting like a 3 arrow quiver to save weight but can also see how having 3 might leave you short potentially.

Blue star! Exactly this!

I'm a five arrow theres no such thing as too many follow up shots guy

hbc07 said:

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Any one have experience with Wyoming elk units? Looking for something preferably on the SE corner of the state. 0 points. Fine with taking a cow. Looking at 24, 25, or 124 as possibilities, but just really have no clue what I'm looking for.

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Well we ended up putting in our group application (with an average of 0pp... have to start somewhere) for antlerless units 25, 27, and 107 (in that order). 25 should be a 100% lock based off of prior years numbers.

I'm a 5 arrow guy as well. I carry 4 with broad heads, and 1 with a judo small game tip. I usually carry a spare broad head and a spare judo as well in a case. I don't think you can have too many flinging sticks and pointy things. They don't weight enough to make me regret them. And grouse are freaking tasty (and a great frustration release after a failed stalk... or so I hear).

Same here. 5 arrows, 1 small game head and sometimes an extra broadhead. The miniscule weight savings isn't near worth running out of arrows.

I always keep my judo point of a different color arrow as well. Don't want to accidentally grab it in the heat of the moment.

Bought my Arizona elk point today. I wish they would do all species together

Has anyone done an AZ coues deer hunt? Just looking for some general pointers or experience.

The grey ghosts have been on my bucket list for a long time, and I made friends with a former AZ resident who is willing to schlep it out with me and show me some spots. But I'm clueless as to strategy. I'm considering trying for a leftover rifle, and if not then an OTC archery tag.

Really looking forward to doing this as well. I've got family in Arizona so logistics wouldn't be too terrible. Like you I just don't know where to start.

Ok I've been needing out on archery last couple of days

Arrow is 430 grains, FOC calculated at 12.95%
It's a 28" length 300spine .001" with lighted nock and a 100gr slick trick broadhead.

On all accounts that seems solid. Wouldn't hurt to upgrade to a 125gr broadhead but I'm not sure I want to mess with that. According to black eagle arrow chart that may be borderline requiring a jump to 250 spine at 70lbs and 28" draw.

Feel better about my set up now. Looks like I'll be upgrading to a Mathews v3 27" ata. Excited about that too !

Anyone looking at Montana or Wyoming Antelope this season or has done it in a previous season? I figure this is a good way to dip my toes into Western State hunting.

I hunted antelope last year just outside of Casper. It was around teapot creek.

Unit 25? That is on my potential list. How was the area? Fairly easy access?

I hunted the Owens ranch. They have 20k acres east of Teapot Rock.

Bought a subscription to GoHunt and OnX today. Amazing how much easier it makes research. I've got like 4-5 units narrowed down to put in for with 0 points now.

I assume I have to pay the extra $110 for the OnX chip if I want to run it on a GPS?

Download the OnX app on your phone. You can save maps offline and it function just the same as a GPS with the card.

What if you're planning on hunting a unit that's dotted with a bunch of private land mixed in? Isn't it helpful to know where you're standing at that exact moment? Versus trying to guess from looking a saved still photo map?

Sorry for all the questions.

Your phone gps will put your dot on the saved map

If you download the offline maps it is no different than using a GPS, except you don't have to carry 2 devices and batteries.

Put your smart phone in airplane mode. The battery will last a long time.