Screams WCIPA, or dial everything back to a 6% beer.
Touch boil hops, rest whirlpool.
Touch boil hops, rest whirlpool.
Homebrew Board - Recipes
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Last: 3 mo ago by Chipotlemonger
AlaskanAg99 said:
Screams WCIPA, or dial everything back to a 6% beer.
Touch boil hops, rest whirlpool.
Let's say I use the CTZ for early kettle additions. What would you think to use for mid-boil, late boil/flameout, and dry hop? I think I would personally like to keep a mid boil addition here and do a full 60 minutes.
My own back of the napkin thoughts...
60 min - CTZ
30 min - CTZ
5 min - CTZ
Flameout - Mosaic, Azacca
Dry Hop - Mosaic, Azacca
Any and all schedule or selection input appreciated! Lot of different ways I think I can go here.
I like what you have here, personally.
Without using software, I'd maybe do .5oz CRZ at 60M, then throwing everything in after boil is done and you've dropped wort temp to less than 180F and whirlpool for 30mins.
Don't use azzaca as I don't care for the hop. Adjust to hit your target bitterness.
Don't use azzaca as I don't care for the hop. Adjust to hit your target bitterness.
Thank y'all for the input!
I'm thinking of targeting between 6.8% and 7.0% ABV. I'll post recipe updates on here as I work on it off and on. Any malt bills y'all gravitate towards for it? Off top of my head, I seem to remember most people using little to no crystal now. I'm okay with some, I love the extra character.
That aside, I seem to hear most people using some base pale malt for the majority, with some white wheat, vienna, and/or Carapils or straight Pils to round it out. That seem right?
I'm thinking of targeting between 6.8% and 7.0% ABV. I'll post recipe updates on here as I work on it off and on. Any malt bills y'all gravitate towards for it? Off top of my head, I seem to remember most people using little to no crystal now. I'm okay with some, I love the extra character.
That aside, I seem to hear most people using some base pale malt for the majority, with some white wheat, vienna, and/or Carapils or straight Pils to round it out. That seem right?
For IPA, I usually do 90% domestic 2-row, 8% Munich 10L, and 2% crystal 40L.
Unlike Alaska, I like a lot of mid-addition hops. I like bitter, resinous IPAs, like Hopadillo. I still do a 60, 30, and 10 minute addition, but I also do flameout, whirlpool, 1st DH, and 2nd Dry Hop addition.
Unlike Alaska, I like a lot of mid-addition hops. I like bitter, resinous IPAs, like Hopadillo. I still do a 60, 30, and 10 minute addition, but I also do flameout, whirlpool, 1st DH, and 2nd Dry Hop addition.
I do as well, but flashing off the hop oils doesn't help for a long boil. I like bitter, resiny WCIPA.
I wouldn't use crystal malt beyond a pinch. Carapils and some Munich.
I wouldn't use crystal malt beyond a pinch. Carapils and some Munich.
Yea I would personally prefer a nice mid palate body to this.
It's funny how far away from Crystal that IPAs have gone.
Anyone know the malt bill for Sierra Nevada celebration? That is pretty dark stuff; but it isn't out of balance at all.
It's funny how far away from Crystal that IPAs have gone.
Anyone know the malt bill for Sierra Nevada celebration? That is pretty dark stuff; but it isn't out of balance at all.
Chipotlemonger said:
Yea I would personally prefer a nice mid palate body to this.
It's funny how far away from Crystal that IPAs have gone.
Anyone know the malt bill for Sierra Nevada celebration? That is pretty dark stuff; but it isn't out of balance at all.
https://sierranevada.com/blog/pale-ale-homebrew-recipe/
That's the pale ale, I meant the Celebration IPA that they do seasonally in the winter.AlaskanAg99 said:Chipotlemonger said:
Yea I would personally prefer a nice mid palate body to this.
It's funny how far away from Crystal that IPAs have gone.
Anyone know the malt bill for Sierra Nevada celebration? That is pretty dark stuff; but it isn't out of balance at all.
https://sierranevada.com/blog/pale-ale-homebrew-recipe/
It's probably similar. They're all high caramel.
Yea probably not far off. To me, the Celebration had more of a near reddish hue to it, whereas the Pale Ale is straight copper.
I had some fresh SNPA a few months ago and was looking forward to it. Was completely turned off by how malty and lack of hop flavor and bitterness. I was shocked I though it was so bad.
Maybe I misread the date and it was a year old.
Maybe I misread the date and it was a year old.
I am a huge SNPA fan.
Also, here is the grain that I have on hand. Thinking to cater whatever malt bill I end up with to fully use the rest of this 2-row, Munich, and 40L (in bold)
Pale 2-Row - 1lb
Munich (base) - 0.5lb
Crystal 40 L (spec.) - 0.4lb
Crystal 120 L (spec.) - 0.4lb
Pale Chocolate - 0.9lb
I think that this might be the perfect amount of Crystal 40 to throw in.
Thoughts on using 100% of the Munich and 40L that I have on hand, then just topping off whatever else I need with more 2-row? Any other small addition specialty malts needed for a good WC IPA?
Also, here is the grain that I have on hand. Thinking to cater whatever malt bill I end up with to fully use the rest of this 2-row, Munich, and 40L (in bold)
Pale 2-Row - 1lb
Munich (base) - 0.5lb
Crystal 40 L (spec.) - 0.4lb
Crystal 120 L (spec.) - 0.4lb
Pale Chocolate - 0.9lb
I think that this might be the perfect amount of Crystal 40 to throw in.
Thoughts on using 100% of the Munich and 40L that I have on hand, then just topping off whatever else I need with more 2-row? Any other small addition specialty malts needed for a good WC IPA?
You can use all that crystal 40L if you want to, but prepare for a too-sweet finish. I mentioned earlier 2% crystal, which is 0.16 pounds in an 8lb, 5 gallon batch. 0.4 pounds is more like 5%. Personally I wouldn't do it; I would rather throw away the unused grain.
My efficiency has been absolute **** lately. I will need to use enough 2-row by my calculations that it would bring the % Crystal 40L closer to 2.7%Ornlu said:
You can use all that crystal 40L if you want to, but prepare for a too-sweet finish. I mentioned earlier 2% crystal, which is 0.16 pounds in an 8lb, 5 gallon batch. 0.4 pounds is more like 5%. Personally I wouldn't do it; I would rather throw away the unused grain.
Here's what it looks like right now:
2-Row 94.0%
Munich 3.4%
Crystal 40L 2.6%
Only change I would make now is if I need to do any other specialty malt to replace any of the 2-Row.
Carapils? White Wheat? More Munich? Any suggestions in these directions or is my current baseline good enough?
The best part is it's all trial and error. Brew tweaks brew tweak....
If you need a bump in abv while drying it out, just use table sugar, but no more than 10% total sugars.
If you need a bump in abv while drying it out, just use table sugar, but no more than 10% total sugars.
If I do use the S-05 I'm not at all worried about drying it out. Every time I use that, especially with a lot of 2-row, my beers get so dry and ferment more than the prescribed efficiency. (I believe it's ripped through everything whether or not I use yeast nutrient on it, but I can't recall if I've always used yeast nutrient for it or not.)
Got a inclination to try out S-04 on this one though and just keep the S-05 around still as my "emergency use" pack.
Got a inclination to try out S-04 on this one though and just keep the S-05 around still as my "emergency use" pack.
I'm going to be brewing a Belle Saison tomorrow, and just realized I'm out of yeast nutrient.
Do ya'll ever do the "boil some yeast instead of nutrient" thing? I have a spare half-pound of DADY yeast that I could make use of.
Do ya'll ever do the "boil some yeast instead of nutrient" thing? I have a spare half-pound of DADY yeast that I could make use of.
Nevermind, change in plans. My grain mill's drive shaft snapped off about 0.5 pounds into the 10 pound grain bill. Maybe I could bore it out, tap it, and install a newer (weaker) shaft, but it's way too fuggin hot outside for machine work. Or.... I could order a not-ghetto grain mill. My current one is just a $22 Corona Mill retromod'ed to be encased in a 5gallon bucket. I can afford a real one, so I'm just gonna wait until it arrives.
My amber ale finished at about 1.007 or so FG for about 6.1% ABV. The sample tasted good! Excited to see how it tastes cold and with the carbonation.
Fermenting in a keg then pressure transferring is definitely how I am doing all beers from now on I think, unless I ever decide to purchase some other fermentation chamber. It was so easy and quick to handle today.
Fermenting in a keg then pressure transferring is definitely how I am doing all beers from now on I think, unless I ever decide to purchase some other fermentation chamber. It was so easy and quick to handle today.
WAKE UP AGS! ITS BREW DAY!
Ornlu said:
WAKE UP AGS! ITS BREW DAY!
Brew day went well, but how much sweat can you accidentally add to a Saison before it becomes a goze?
Ornlu said:Ornlu said:
WAKE UP AGS! ITS BREW DAY!
Brew day went well, but how much sweat can you accidentally add to a Saison before it becomes a goze?
Haha that's a good one. But my face is making a different expression than laughing.
That being said, fermentation is a magical thing.
I didn't actually sweat INTO the beer, besides a few drops on my new grain mill. Just a joke.
Speaking of new grain mill, I need to dial that thing in. My efficiency was down from 80% to 67%. Need to go finer.
Speaking of new grain mill, I need to dial that thing in. My efficiency was down from 80% to 67%. Need to go finer.
Ornlu said:
I didn't actually sweat INTO the beer, besides a few drops on my new grain mill. Just a joke.
Speaking of new grain mill, I need to dial that thing in. My efficiency was down from 80% to 67%. Need to go finer.
What mill did you go with? And I can't remember your process, but I do BIAB and my mill roller gap is about a credit cards thickness.
I hate my efficiency. Next batch I do I am going to increase my grist ratio. Saw that's one way to get a little boost…been doing 1.25.
Would love my own mill. Probably my next homebrew purchase.
Would love my own mill. Probably my next homebrew purchase.
My setup is an old school propane batch sparge system.
New mill is a "twin roller" brand. I initially set it to 0.037 inches (using spark plug feelers), but the grain would n't crush because the kernels just wouldn't fit into the rollers. It just wouldn't grab to start. So I widened it to 0.052 inches. It crushed quite quick. My old mill was just a $25 POS corona mill purchased from a Mexican meat market (so I have now idea what the setting was), but I had dialed it in over 50+ batches and 8+ years. It was perfect.
I'll get there with this one too. Just need time. I also should have mashed longer today, and stirred more.
New mill is a "twin roller" brand. I initially set it to 0.037 inches (using spark plug feelers), but the grain would n't crush because the kernels just wouldn't fit into the rollers. It just wouldn't grab to start. So I widened it to 0.052 inches. It crushed quite quick. My old mill was just a $25 POS corona mill purchased from a Mexican meat market (so I have now idea what the setting was), but I had dialed it in over 50+ batches and 8+ years. It was perfect.
I'll get there with this one too. Just need time. I also should have mashed longer today, and stirred more.
What setup do you use? If it's batch sparge, going with a very dry mash and a very wet sparge is key to efficiency. Figure 1.15 or 1.2 quarts per pound for mash in, and 1.5 or 1.6 for sparge. Also, pH is king. 5.3 = peak efficiency.
Batch sparging. I also think I didn't stir my grains enough. May get some channeling or dough balls?. I mash in one of those cylinder igloo coolers with a valve in place of a spout. Metal false bottom.Ornlu said:
What setup do you use? If it's batch sparge, going with a very dry mash and a very wet sparge is key to efficiency. Figure 1.15 or 1.2 quarts per pound for mash in, and 1.5 or 1.6 for sparge. Also, pH is king. 5.3 = peak efficiency.
Way I always did it was 1.25 qt/lb mash, then did the sparge with whatever volume I needed more of roughly after draining the mash tun.
Nice! Looking forward to hearing about those endeavors. Also, I have your black pepper strong wheat added to my list of brews. Excited to give it a go. Gotta get through these next 2 brews before I order more grain.
New homebrew area setup is just about ready, and while it isn't fancy, it's MUCH better than what I had. Will post pics.
New homebrew area setup is just about ready, and while it isn't fancy, it's MUCH better than what I had. Will post pics.
You can always double crush. Good way to tighten the gap on the 2nd run. Lots of sparging to deal with any flour.
And if batch sparging buying a pump to recirculate will help a ton. Plus it just makes brewing so much easier.
And if batch sparging buying a pump to recirculate will help a ton. Plus it just makes brewing so much easier.
If anyone is in Houston and wants a mill and a box for it I have one they can just have. 2 roller MaltMill.
I'm surprised the kernels wouldn't fit at .037" -- I think the standard recommendation I've heard is .038 and .052 sounds quite coarse. Either you're using a grain with larger kernels, or possibly not locking down the mill and it moved tighter during the crush? Or maybe my Harbor Freight feeler gauges are inaccurate, but I doubt they're that far off!Ornlu said:
My setup is an old school propane batch sparge system.
New mill is a "twin roller" brand. I initially set it to 0.037 inches (using spark plug feelers), but the grain would n't crush because the kernels just wouldn't fit into the rollers. It just wouldn't grab to start. So I widened it to 0.052 inches. It crushed quite quick. My old mill was just a $25 POS corona mill purchased from a Mexican meat market (so I have now idea what the setting was), but I had dialed it in over 50+ batches and 8+ years. It was perfect.
I'll get there with this one too. Just need time. I also should have mashed longer today, and stirred more.
I usually mill at .032, but I occasionally get grains that won't fit and have to go a few thousandths coarser. My setup (copper manifold in a rectangular cooler) never gets a stuck sparge, so I can get away with crushing a little finer.
Are you also using spark plug feelers? I don't know how the diff methods compare.
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