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Homebrew Board - Recipes

444,374 Views | 3354 Replies | Last: 5 mo ago by Chipotlemonger
Chipotlemonger
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AG
No Homebrew but I've got my oatmeal stout fermenting from a week ago.
Superdave1993
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AG
Finally took the leap back in and started my first batch of cider today.
Chipotlemonger
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AG
Recent small batch I bottled seems over carbed to the point that the layer in the bottom of the bottles gets shot back up into the beer when I open them. There a fix for this? Just opened one, let it fizz out some, then resealed it. Threw it back in the fridge and hoping that I can try it again later with all of the dead yeast and what not in the bottom of the bottle, and staying there.
Ornlu
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AG
Are they "geyser"ing when you open them?
Chipotlemonger
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AG
Ornlu said:

Are they "geyser"ing when you open them?
This last one I opened did, yes.
Ornlu
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AG
In my experience, that's caused by infection. Some bacteria (likely pedio-) is eating you high-order sugars and making far too much CO2.
Chipotlemonger
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AG
Oh boy! Well, the last bottle didn't have this problem at all so I kinda chalked it up to an issue with inconsistent carbing. I individually added honey to the bottles.
fav13andac1)c
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AG
Chipotlemonger said:

Oh boy! Well, the last bottle didn't have this problem at all so I kinda chalked it up to an issue with inconsistent carbing. I individually added honey to the bottles.
This could also be the issue. Honey's sugar content can be pretty inconsistent, and when you add it individually into bottles, I can imagine that it's pretty difficult to get it right.
Chipotlemonger
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AG
Okay. Yea I thought I was being clever with the way I filled the bottles. Maybe not! I normally keg.

I feel really good about the sanitation so I really hope that isn't the case. Regardless, I recapped the bottle and put it back in the fridge to resettle. Will open it again once it settles to see if that fixes it.
Ornlu
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AG
Chipotlemonger said:

Okay. Yea I thought I was being clever with the way I filled the bottles. Maybe not! I normally keg.

I feel really good about the sanitation so I really hope that isn't the case. Regardless, I recapped the bottle and put it back in the fridge to resettle. Will open it again once it settles to see if that fixes it.
Another thing you could do to check is to let a guyser bottle warm to room temp (after opening), and take the final grav reading again. If I'm right, it will have dropped below your FG from 3 or 4 weeks ago.

My last infected batch got down to like 0.998, from a "final grav" of 1.012. Hence the guysers.

I also purchased a 6-pack of Presidio's La Bahia in about 2015 that were all guysers. They were funky as hell. I checked the grav on one of them, and it was well below 1.000.
bmc13
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AG
in the future if you want to use honey for priming again you could batch prime it in a bottling bucket first to hopefully even out any bottle-to-bottle inconsistencies.
Chipotlemonger
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AG
I fermented this beer blind, did not take any gravity readings. I think I have enough in the bottle that I opened yesterday to take a gravity reading to see if it's way too low though (lik 0.998, etc.).

Good to know about the honey! And next batch I do plan on batching it first before bottling. I was trying to be clever and not do that this last time.
AggieOO
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I've had several overcarbed "geysers" over the years that were not infected. It could simply be overcarbed.
Ornlu
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AG
Alright, I just ordered ingredients to brew another partigyle next weekend:

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/991409/partigyle10-double-pale-ale-first-runnings

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/991410/partigyle10-session-pale-ale-second-runnings-

Both will be pale ales, just on the far opposite ends of the spectrum.
Chipotlemonger
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AG
Okay an update. After venting that geyser beer and then resealing it and chilling it, I had the rest of the beer the other day. It tasted great and no off flavors. I am thinking I may have just messed the carbonation up.
lne2011
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AG
They look good, I like the Lemondrop in the session. Curious to know how it works with Citra.

Question: why do you whirlpool at 190 instead of 170-180?
Chipotlemonger
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AG
Should my next system upgrade be a true brew stand setup for all of my equipment, or a pump? Currently I have a table that houses the Igloo mash tun when it's going. One burner, 2 kettles.
62strat
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A pump and an entire brew stand are entirely different price points...

Got a picture of your setup?
Chipotlemonger
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Well to be fair my idea of brew stand is just some hardware, lumber, etc. on casters. Not one of those prebuilt trees or welding anything. Maybe 80/20 usage too. I'll try to find a pic of a system setup I liked that I wouldn't mind having.
Ornlu
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AG
lne2011 said:

They look good, I like the Lemondrop in the session. Curious to know how it works with Citra.

Question: why do you whirlpool at 190 instead of 170-180?
I put down 190 because I've actually never done a hopstand/whirlpool before. Thanks for the tip!
Chipotlemonger
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AG
What kind of setup or process do you have for the double brews? Just bigger kettles and bigger mash tun with 2 fermentation vessels?
Ornlu
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AG
I only do 1 mash, but two boils. I use a keggle and ferment in buckets. Yes, I do have 3 or 4 buckets.
lne2011
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In that case, if you whirlpool around ~175 it will yield 0 IBUs so you'll need to recalculate your bitter addition to get the IBUs you want.
AlaskanAg99
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For double brews I have a 3 vessel MB flat system. Once sparge is done I start refilling the HLT immediately, then go to the BK, stir and check gravity, then light that kettle.

Start graining out, when the HLT is full, start that burner, rinse the MT, fill with strike water, turn that burner on, mill the grain, when MT is at 122F mash in. I step mash everything just because it's easy.

I've found making sure to do all the grain weighouts, water salts, hops and clean and sanitize the fermenters the night before. Makes the day a lot easier.
aTm '99
Ornlu
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AG
I brew in a 15 gallon Keggle (sankey keg converted into a kettle). I currently only have an outflow valve, which is set as low in the kettle as I could get it.

I'd like to add a whirlpool valve+fittings, so that I can do whirlpools at less than boiling temps to increase hop flavor. So.... I just ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OC8DUGC/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



My question is, how high should I mount it? I'm thinking about adding 4gallons of fluid to the keggle, and mounting it at that level. Is this high enough? Or too high?
Chipotlemonger
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AG
What would a recipe build using these look like? There is a local beer that has these hops and characteristics that we love, and I would love to brew something similar to it.

Hazy DDH IPA
6.6%
64 IBU

Oats mentioned as part of the grain bill. DDH with Citra, Centennial, Chinook, Simcoe.
lne2011
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AG
Chipotlemonger said:

What would a recipe build using these look like? There is a local beer that has these hops and characteristics that we love, and I would love to brew something similar to it.

Hazy DDH IPA
6.6%
64 IBU

Oats mentioned as part of the grain bill. DDH with Citra, Centennial, Chinook, Simcoe.


Off the top of my head:

Marris Otter - base malt can be split with another base malt
Carafoam ~5% add in some extra body
Flaked Oats - keep this under 20% of the grain bill, 10-15% should do it.

Water chemistry changes will be helpful as well.
Chipotlemonger
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AG
Awesome. What might the hop schedule look like? I was thinking something at 60min, something at 5, some at flameout, then obviously the DDH. I don't have a whirlpool setup right now. Guess I could stir and make a hop cone at flameout?
lne2011
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AG
Chipotlemonger said:

Awesome. What might the hop schedule look like? I was thinking something at 60min, something at 5, some at flameout, then obviously the DDH. I don't have a whirlpool setup right now. Guess I could stir and make a hop cone at flameout?


That hop schedule should work without a whirlpool. Make sure you hit the midfermentation dry hop to really bring those aromas out.
Ornlu
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AG
A significant portion of the haze comes from adding hops during still-active fermentation, so that the yeast eat the hop trub & turn it into disbursed cohumulone (which is very hazy). It's called Biotransformation.

I try to add them about a day after peak krausen, so around 3-4 days after pitching yeast.
lne2011
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AG
Very informative article, thanks for sharing!
Chipotlemonger
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AG
Thanks for all of the input guys. I'd like to get to a point where I have a go to west coast pale ale and a go to hazy IPA like the one I'm describing.
Ornlu
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I too am trying to get some routine/repeatable beers tuned. I'm majorly overhauling my DIPA recipe. 4 tries and I haven't produced any IPA over 80 IBU's & 8% that I enjoy. I'm about to dump 1/2 a keg of the last one I made and try again.
Chipotlemonger
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AG
Good luck! I have not ventured into the higher gravity stuff yet. I would love to have these 5 styles nailed down for more of a regular rotation:

  • West Coast Pale Ale
  • Aforementioned Hazy IPA
  • Schwarzbier
  • Saison
  • Amber - maybe one of both an ale and a lager (I've brewed both before and love the 2 styles)


Edit to add: a Czech style pils or Helles lager as well!
Ornlu
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AG
I think that if I were to make my list of tap room regulars, it'd be:
  • Mexican Lager
  • Hefewizen
  • Brut IPA
  • Stout - either a triple chocolate, or a raspberry
  • Imperial Irish Red
  • DIPA
  • Cranberry cider
 
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