Yea with that amount of hops and that ABV I think it's crossed into the IPA realm.
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Last: 8 hrs ago by hurricanejake02
Alright, time to brew another batch.
Please share any kettle sour recipes you like.
Please share any kettle sour recipes you like.
Yakima Hops is blowing out Galaxy. $20/lbs. Sale ends tonight
aTm '99
Well dang. I was hoping to prove all of your wrong after pouring a glass, but I made a freaking IPA. Delicious but not what I was going for. I did find out my Temp probe was reading 6 degree higher than actual. Now I at least know why I kept getting sub 1.010 brews.
Also was my first sub 2 weeks grain to glass beer, 9 days out.
Also was my first sub 2 weeks grain to glass beer, 9 days out.
Hey at least it's tasty!
What's everyone's method for cleaning beerstone and maintaining their brew kettles? I was thinking of using some StarSan to just soak it after a clean, as I see that's one method to maintain/passivate, but I also see a new beerstone specific product from Five Star too.
What's everyone's method for cleaning beerstone and maintaining their brew kettles? I was thinking of using some StarSan to just soak it after a clean, as I see that's one method to maintain/passivate, but I also see a new beerstone specific product from Five Star too.
I'm gonna make a Kettle Sour on Saturday.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1008387/berliner-weisse-on-peaches
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1008387/berliner-weisse-on-peaches
48 hours later, pH is down to 3.4. Gonna boil it tonight.
Nice pellicle?
What brand did you use for lacto?
What brand did you use for lacto?
No pellicle, but it was at 95+ the 56 ish hours.
I used Swanson's L. plantarum. https://www.swansonvitamins.com/swanson-probiotics-l-plantarum-inner-bowel-support-30-veg-drcaps
I used Swanson's L. plantarum. https://www.swansonvitamins.com/swanson-probiotics-l-plantarum-inner-bowel-support-30-veg-drcaps
Interesting. Did you order it online or is it available in stores? And what was your method for maintaining temps for that long?
I ordered the lacto as a bottle of probiotic pills off of amazon. Was about $10 and enough for 4 batches.
https://www.amazon.com/SW-PROBIOTICS-L-PLANTARUM-Veg-DRCAPS/dp/B00EEACTO2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=swanson+lactobacillus+plantarum&qid=1592353383&sprefix=swanson+la&sr=8-4
I also wrapped the boil kettle in blankets and kept it in a hot garage. The twice that it hit 95 (Sunday morning and Sunday late evening), I turned the gas burner back on until it hit 110.
https://www.amazon.com/SW-PROBIOTICS-L-PLANTARUM-Veg-DRCAPS/dp/B00EEACTO2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=swanson+lactobacillus+plantarum&qid=1592353383&sprefix=swanson+la&sr=8-4
I also wrapped the boil kettle in blankets and kept it in a hot garage. The twice that it hit 95 (Sunday morning and Sunday late evening), I turned the gas burner back on until it hit 110.
Thanks for the info! Temp control was always something that was concerning about kettle sours, but it sounds super easy when you put it that way! I might just have to give your recipe a shot!
Don't use my grain bill. Here's what I should have done:
50% German pilsner malt
50% unmalted wheat
1lb rice hulls
90 min mash at 148
The kettle sour method, especially using Lactobacillus Plantarum, was a hit. But the malt background isn't right for a Berliner Weisse.
50% German pilsner malt
50% unmalted wheat
1lb rice hulls
90 min mash at 148
The kettle sour method, especially using Lactobacillus Plantarum, was a hit. But the malt background isn't right for a Berliner Weisse.
I like the idea of brewing a nice kettle sour for at home consumption. For me thought that's a ways off. I'd like to dial in my process and get more practice in before tackling a kettle sour and dedicating different equipment for that.
There's literally zero extra equipment. Just stop boiling after 5 minutes instead of 60, and then only chill it to 110F. Pitch the lacto straight into the warm boil kettle and wait 1-2 days before resuming the boil.
Do you not have to worry about cross-contamination with other clean batches?
No. That's the whole point of the kettle sour. You keep the lacto confined to the kettle, and then boil it for 60 mins once it's sour enough.
Ah I see. Makes sense. In my head I was thinking of souring the mash in my igloo mash tun more so than doing it just in a kettle.
Brewing some river beers up for next month.. blonde ale and a Berliner next, going to be up late.
Trying out Omega Kolsch 2 for the Berliner, interested to see how that turns out. Supposed to floc quicker so hopefully it will be ready.
Trying out Omega Kolsch 2 for the Berliner, interested to see how that turns out. Supposed to floc quicker so hopefully it will be ready.
Alright, planning my next double batch. I'm gonna bottle about 2/3 of everything I have in kegs, just so that I can brew more.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1014250/partigyle11-banana-wheatwine-first-runnings
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1014252/partigyle11-heavenly-wit-second-runnings
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1014250/partigyle11-banana-wheatwine-first-runnings
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1014252/partigyle11-heavenly-wit-second-runnings
What's your preferred method for bottling from the keg? Always interested in doing that.
Been a while since I've had a barley wine (or wheat wine for that matter). Think last one I had was from Lakewood? About 5 years ago.
Been a while since I've had a barley wine (or wheat wine for that matter). Think last one I had was from Lakewood? About 5 years ago.
I use one of these: https://www.blichmannengineering.com/beergun.html
So I know I asked for pale ale recs a little while back. After my last 2 AG batches having a low OG, I want to spend a batch really trying to hone that in with a better process. Or at least knock some suspected variables out as to why it's low.
Background:
AG Blonde: Target OG 1.040, was 1.048
AG Brown Ale: Target 1.050, was 1.038
Multiple reasons in my system and process it could be low that I've gathered:
I will be attempting to change at least the first 2 bullet points to best figure out how they may be contributing. Also may source grain from different place as well (I do not have my own mill unfortunately) Full disclosure, I did not measure SG for any of these, just watched it go 6.5g to 5g boil over 60min on each.
Here is a table of my on-hand hops that I'd like to use. Anyone have a rec on a grain bill and hop schedule to go with these? Don't care too much about mixing and matching all 4, like I said I really want to pay most attention to the gravity and my mash efficiency.
Willamette 0.25 oz 3.50%
Chinook 0.9 oz 9.90%
Centennial 0.9 oz 8.14%
Simcoe 0.6 oz 12.90%
Is this enough for a pale ale with an OG of about 1.050?
Background:
AG Blonde: Target OG 1.040, was 1.048
AG Brown Ale: Target 1.050, was 1.038
Multiple reasons in my system and process it could be low that I've gathered:
- Small leak at valve interface on igloo mash tun, causes a loss of some of the heaviest liquid during the mash
- Too fast of a runoff, impatience!
- Not a good crush
I will be attempting to change at least the first 2 bullet points to best figure out how they may be contributing. Also may source grain from different place as well (I do not have my own mill unfortunately) Full disclosure, I did not measure SG for any of these, just watched it go 6.5g to 5g boil over 60min on each.
Here is a table of my on-hand hops that I'd like to use. Anyone have a rec on a grain bill and hop schedule to go with these? Don't care too much about mixing and matching all 4, like I said I really want to pay most attention to the gravity and my mash efficiency.
Willamette 0.25 oz 3.50%
Chinook 0.9 oz 9.90%
Centennial 0.9 oz 8.14%
Simcoe 0.6 oz 12.90%
Is this enough for a pale ale with an OG of about 1.050?
Are you using fly sparge or batch sparge?
Yes, that's enough hops for a pale ale. Just do you IBU calcs, aim for right at 30 IBUs and try to keep it 70% late addition vrs 30% bittering addition.
Yes, that's enough hops for a pale ale. Just do you IBU calcs, aim for right at 30 IBUs and try to keep it 70% late addition vrs 30% bittering addition.
One thing to keep in mind that will help you when designing these styles in the future is the Bitterness/Gravity ratio. It's a good guideline when designing and should help stay on style.
https://brookstonbeerbulletin.com/ibu-to-og-ratio-range-by-style/
According to the article above, the typical ratio for a beer labeled as an American Pale Ale can range from .5-1.0. A 1:1 ratio for IBUs to OG seems pretty high to me, but that's where opinions vary, such as calling an American Pale Ale a Session IPA, or an IPA an APA, etc.
30 IBUS to 50 gravity points = .6
https://brookstonbeerbulletin.com/ibu-to-og-ratio-range-by-style/
According to the article above, the typical ratio for a beer labeled as an American Pale Ale can range from .5-1.0. A 1:1 ratio for IBUs to OG seems pretty high to me, but that's where opinions vary, such as calling an American Pale Ale a Session IPA, or an IPA an APA, etc.
30 IBUS to 50 gravity points = .6
I have a berliner in the kettle that I have been trying to sour with WLP677 since Saturday night. I adjusted the pH to 4.5 prior to pitching and yesterday finally saw a step change down to 3.8 and no change this morning. After reading terrible 677 reviews I think it has possibly stalled. I picked up some goodbelly shots and going to throw one in this afternoon to target 3.2-3.4.
How long is to long for kettle souring? I have kept a pretty consistent temp range of 100-110.
If I don't see a drop in 24 hours with goodbelly, should I just boil it?
How long is to long for kettle souring? I have kept a pretty consistent temp range of 100-110.
If I don't see a drop in 24 hours with goodbelly, should I just boil it?
I am using a batch sparge right now. Thanks for the input y'all!
This is a risk-tolerance question. Every minute that your beer doesn't have your chosen variety of Saccharomyces in it , you're at risk of wild yest infection. However, given the temp & the pH it's a low risk, but a risk none the less.
Take a look at this:
Source: https://byo.com/article/brewing-with-lactobacillus/
I think your 677 might have reached it's terminal pH. You'll get down to 3.4 or so with L. Plantarum (what's in goodbelly). No bacteria at this point is going to get you down to 3.2.
Take a look at this:
Source: https://byo.com/article/brewing-with-lactobacillus/
I think your 677 might have reached it's terminal pH. You'll get down to 3.4 or so with L. Plantarum (what's in goodbelly). No bacteria at this point is going to get you down to 3.2.
For batch sparge, I take grav readings for each half of the sparge. Assuming that they're equal runnout size, I usually find that my first runnings need to target a preboil grav x1.5, and the second runnings should be at 0.5x the preboil grav.
For example:
For example:
- 5.5 gallon batch, 12lbs grain. Target preboil volume is 6.5gal. Mash with 3.25gal + 0.125gal per pound of grain. So strike water is 4.75gal.
- Sparge water = preboil grav minus strike water out plus mashtun losses. So 3.6gal for this example.
- If your target OG is 1.050, then preboil needs to be 1.042 (assuming 1gal of liquid boils off).
- First runnings should then be around 1.069 and second runnings should be around 1.027.
- If they're not, you have a water chemistry or grain milling problem.
For your batch sparge, do you like to drain and runoff the entire mash tun twice over? Is that what you mean by first and second? I've seen some people do this, have also seen some say that you need to keep liquid above the grain at all times and runoff continuously.
For batch sparge, you drain the entire tun each time. That's why it's called "batch". Running off continuously is a completely diff method.
The theory behind continuous runoff sparges (like fly sparge) is that you wash all of the sugar out of the grain with continuous flow.
The theory behind batch sparge is different. You osmose the sugars out.
The theory behind continuous runoff sparges (like fly sparge) is that you wash all of the sugar out of the grain with continuous flow.
The theory behind batch sparge is different. You osmose the sugars out.
What is the continuous runoff out of the mash tun called? Am I misconstruing sparge versus recirculation?
Either Recirculation (like RIMS or HERMs) or fly sparge.
By the way, most people when they start AG brewing with a batch sparge system are only like 68-70 % efficient. Just count on being low, and compensate by buying more grain. Then as you dial in your procedure and you efficiency upticks, either add more water or scale back the grain purchase.
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