Make sure you attach a blowoff hose when adding or have one already attached. Adding the hops will certainly release some CO2 in suspension. I almost got my teeth knocked out by a 3" SS dry hop port cap at one point after adding the first batch of dry hops to our DDH at Tupps. We would add a bag of hops, wait for the resulting volcano to subside and the pressure to go down, then add the rest. This time I got a false reading on the pressure gauge and went up the ladder to add the second bag. Turns out the blowoff arm was clogged with hops and sludge. Really glad I didn't have my face right over the cap because when I removed the tri-clamp, it exploded off the tank and hit the ceiling with some force - 20 feet above the tank. The worst I got was completely covered with beer and hops, a large amount of cleanup after, and scared to death. The beer turned out fine.Ornlu said:
A significant portion of the haze comes from adding hops during still-active fermentation, so that the yeast eat the hop trub & turn it into disbursed cohumulone (which is very hazy). It's called Biotransformation.
I try to add them about a day after peak krausen, so around 3-4 days after pitching yeast.
Homebrew Board - Recipes
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Last: 5 mo ago by Chipotlemonger
Anyone brewing this weekend? I am thinking of brewing this: AHS Toasted Pecan Brown Ale
That being said, any recs for the pecans? I've read the oils can hurt head retention so to cycle the roast multiple times to get them out.
Also, this calls for a dry hop addition of pecans. My thinking was to just drop them in, no need to bag them for the addition. But how to handle sanitation is a different question altogether.
That being said, any recs for the pecans? I've read the oils can hurt head retention so to cycle the roast multiple times to get them out.
Also, this calls for a dry hop addition of pecans. My thinking was to just drop them in, no need to bag them for the addition. But how to handle sanitation is a different question altogether.
You could try soaking them in vodka before adding them, or dunking your dry hop sack with the pecans in boiling water.
Should I worry about the pecans that are going into the mash and the oils they'll be bringing in? Not for sanitation but for head retention. I guess those are partly why it's a pecan brown ale though, ha.
Yes, the oils will prevent head retention. I made a pecan brown ale years ago. I think I toasted and patted down with a paper towel and then toasted one more time. My head retention was maybe five seconds. So if you care about head retention, I would toast them at least 4-5 cycles. Don't know how much it will help, but can't hurt. Don't remember what I did to prevent infection but I had no issues there and I don't remember doing anything drastic. I may have just gone straight from toasting to dry nutting.
Yea I like head retention, but at the same time being a brown ale I don't have as much desire for the best on that aspect. It could probably drink fine off a keg like an English brown ale that's slightly under carbed anyways.
Thanks for the input y'all!
Thanks for the input y'all!
I also remember now that since I didn't do a good job extracting the oils, you could see a sheen on the surface when you poured it into a glass. So, it's obvious I didn't do much of anything in my attempt to remove the oils.
Chipotlemonger said:
Anyone brewing this weekend? I am thinking of brewing this: AHS Toasted Pecan Brown Ale
That being said, any recs for the pecans? I've read the oils can hurt head retention so to cycle the roast multiple times to get them out.
Also, this calls for a dry hop addition of pecans. My thinking was to just drop them in, no need to bag them for the addition. But how to handle sanitation is a different question altogether.
I brewed that one a long time ago. Just rolled with it and didn't worry about the oils. Tasted just fine. Didn't care about head retention. It was for me to drink, not like I was selling it or submitting to a contest.
My OG came in low on the pecan brown ale, 1.038!
My OG on the last batch I did 5 gal all grain was also a little low, but not by 0.012, it was low by about 0.004 IIRC. That beer turned out fine, fortunately the yeast worked hard for me there. Hoping the yeast right now can do some magic too. Windsor Dry Ale yeast.
Anyways, my main thought now is maybe I should not dry hop with pecans. The OG reading sample tasted definitely nutty enough, and with such a light bodied beer now, I'd be worried about hiding all of the flavor with that hard flavor. Thoughts?
Target was 1.050. I'm fine with a lower ABV beer, but don't want it to not be balanced if I can help it..
My OG on the last batch I did 5 gal all grain was also a little low, but not by 0.012, it was low by about 0.004 IIRC. That beer turned out fine, fortunately the yeast worked hard for me there. Hoping the yeast right now can do some magic too. Windsor Dry Ale yeast.
Anyways, my main thought now is maybe I should not dry hop with pecans. The OG reading sample tasted definitely nutty enough, and with such a light bodied beer now, I'd be worried about hiding all of the flavor with that hard flavor. Thoughts?
Target was 1.050. I'm fine with a lower ABV beer, but don't want it to not be balanced if I can help it..
I am brewing a pale ale this weekend and wanted to collect another couple of gallons of wort to play with.
I was thinking of putting several pounds of blueberries in with the extra wort and see if the wild yeast would ferment it. Should I pitch any additional yeast or let it go for a month or two with the berries to see if anything happens? I assume I would need to get organic to get the wild yeast?
I was thinking of putting several pounds of blueberries in with the extra wort and see if the wild yeast would ferment it. Should I pitch any additional yeast or let it go for a month or two with the berries to see if anything happens? I assume I would need to get organic to get the wild yeast?
If you want wild yeast/spontaneous fermentation then don't pitch any other yeast. If you pitch another yeast it will out compete the wild yeast you want.
For what it's worth, I don't think it's possible to have too much pecan flavor. I'd still do the dry-hop pecans.
Don't pitch any yeast, and also don't sanitize the berries. You want the yeast off the berry skins.
Cool. I think I am going to mash up like 4-6 lbs and throw in some wood chips I have just to see what happens.
Tried my oatmeal stout yesterday for the first time. Turned out damn good! Better than I was expecting. Bottle carbonation was much better this time around, didn't have a geyser.
The cider was a hit! Back sweetened with apple/cherry concentrate and used black currant as well. I did not pasteurize, but threw them in the fridge. Thanks to all for the motivation to get back into this.
I want to say that I am so glad this thread is so active. I don't know about y'all but I've definitely been brewing more this year and it's nice to see others doing the same.
Just brewed the first of 4 batches for my sister's wedding in July. 10 gallons of Hefeweizen, 10 gallons of Centennial Blonde. Brewing the Centennial with my dad next week sometime. He has also made 20 gallons of wine already and made labels. I think we'll have enough booze.
Just brewed the first of 4 batches for my sister's wedding in July. 10 gallons of Hefeweizen, 10 gallons of Centennial Blonde. Brewing the Centennial with my dad next week sometime. He has also made 20 gallons of wine already and made labels. I think we'll have enough booze.
My brewery is covered in sawdust. Clean up is today Soni can brew soon. I need to knock out 2 batches this week.
aTm '99
I brewed a hefe and blonde for our wedding!Quote:
Just brewed the first of 4 batches for my sister's wedding in July. 10 gallons of Hefeweizen, 10 gallons of Centennial Blonde. Brewing the Centennial with my dad next week sometime. He has also made 20 gallons of wine already and made labels. I think we'll have enough booze.
10 years ago next week.
Dude congrats!! Double digits!!!
Our wedding anni is today. Lucky #7 during the trashmare that is 2020.
aTm '99
I figured out why my OG has been a bit low on my AG batches so far, I did not do near a slow enough runoff of wort from the igloo cooler.
For those that use an Igloo cooler for mash, how do y'all control runoff flow rate accurately? Is it just a feel thing after doing a batch or 2 this method? Watch for it to hit the 4 qt (1 gallon) mark and see how long it takes to get there, then adjust on the fly?
For those that use an Igloo cooler for mash, how do y'all control runoff flow rate accurately? Is it just a feel thing after doing a batch or 2 this method? Watch for it to hit the 4 qt (1 gallon) mark and see how long it takes to get there, then adjust on the fly?
Another thing you might look at is the crush on the grain. I've noticed that at a couple of different homebrew shops, the gap on their mill is pretty wide, which is less than ideal. It leaves a lot of grain intact or barely cracked, which can inhibit sugar conversion because the starch isn't as exposed.
Maybe you're milling your own grain properly and I'm talking out my butt, but the size of the crush is a significant influence on efficiency for sure.
Maybe you're milling your own grain properly and I'm talking out my butt, but the size of the crush is a significant influence on efficiency for sure.
Yea after more research this could definitely be a culprit as well! The crush did not look as fine as I thought it might should be. Ordered it pre-milled from my LHBS.
Would love to have a mill of my own someday, that's how I learned from watching some neighbors in the past that brewed, and I liked the customization you get that way and quality control.
That being said, I think I may use more grain on my next batch, just up the grain bill, and pay attention to do a much slower sparge.
Would love to have a mill of my own someday, that's how I learned from watching some neighbors in the past that brewed, and I liked the customization you get that way and quality control.
That being said, I think I may use more grain on my next batch, just up the grain bill, and pay attention to do a much slower sparge.
Thanksfav13andac1)c said:
Dude congrats!! Double digits!!!
We had a trip to the hill country planned 12th-17th with our best friends who got married a month before us (my childhood friend married my wife's childhood friend)..
Nice big VRBO with a pool for our combined 4 kids.. we planned it like 9 months ago.
But that is no more.
We plan to make 11 a big one!
Of course, just saying 10 years seems like I'm shortchanging it.. we stared dating in 2003 and bought our first house in 2005 lol. We're coming up on 20 when it comes down to it!
Looking to brew a west coast pale ale next I think. My favorite one I've had recently has this info included:
5.4 ABV
40 IBU
Hops: Cascade, Idaho 7
Grain: "small addition of crystal malk and flaked wheat"
Anyone have a recipe like this or can link me to one? Otherwise I'll just get a base pale ale kit.
5.4 ABV
40 IBU
Hops: Cascade, Idaho 7
Grain: "small addition of crystal malk and flaked wheat"
Anyone have a recipe like this or can link me to one? Otherwise I'll just get a base pale ale kit.
8lb two row pale
1lb Munich light
4oz crystal 40L
4oz Rye
1oz Cescade for 60 mins
0.5oz Cascade for 10 mins
0.5oz Cascade in whirlpool for 10 mins at 170F
1oz Simcoe dry hop, at 7 days.
1lb Munich light
4oz crystal 40L
4oz Rye
1oz Cescade for 60 mins
0.5oz Cascade for 10 mins
0.5oz Cascade in whirlpool for 10 mins at 170F
1oz Simcoe dry hop, at 7 days.
Looks good. With US-05 what kind of ABV would I yield out of this? What kind of IBU?
Threw it into Beersmith and came up with:
~5% ABV
~25 IBUS
This was with the default AA on Cascade in Beersmith (5.5%)
Sounds like a delicious recipe, especially with the Simcoe dry hop.
~5% ABV
~25 IBUS
This was with the default AA on Cascade in Beersmith (5.5%)
Sounds like a delicious recipe, especially with the Simcoe dry hop.
Here's something I've thought about, is there a reason for only dry hopping with one hop versus multiple hop varieties? Is it a stylistic thing where people like to be able to discern specific known hop flavors, is there a technical reason, or is there no rhyme or reason?
No rhyme or reason. Just $$.
I made this pale ale last weekend.
2-row - 8lbs
Munich 10l - 1lbs
carafoam/carapils - 8oz
Caramal/crystal 40l - 8oz
Amarillo- .75oz @60
Amarillo- 1oz @5
Centennial- .5oz @5
Simcoe- .5oz @5
Amarillo- 1oz WP .. ~160F
Centennia-l .5oz @WP
Simcoe- .5oz @WP
Amarillo- 1.25oz DH
Centennial 1oz DH
Simcoe 1oz DH
2-row - 8lbs
Munich 10l - 1lbs
carafoam/carapils - 8oz
Caramal/crystal 40l - 8oz
Amarillo- .75oz @60
Amarillo- 1oz @5
Centennial- .5oz @5
Simcoe- .5oz @5
Amarillo- 1oz WP .. ~160F
Centennia-l .5oz @WP
Simcoe- .5oz @WP
Amarillo- 1.25oz DH
Centennial 1oz DH
Simcoe 1oz DH
That's 9oz of hops in a 5 gallon batch. Isn't that more of a NEIPA than a pale ale?
cgary11 said:
I made thisNew Englandpale ale last weekend.
"Hoppy" Pale Ale.
I always struggle with the difference on the borderline pale ales/ipas, however this one has a nice crisp straw yellow color, its going to looks like a pale ale, just a little hoppier.
I always considered the style based on more so on SRM more so than the hops unless its getting into the 60 IBU range..I am sure if I threw in some oats I could easily call this a NEIPA.
I also mashed a little low and the WLP001 took it from 1.052 to 1.004.. Whoops.
I always struggle with the difference on the borderline pale ales/ipas, however this one has a nice crisp straw yellow color, its going to looks like a pale ale, just a little hoppier.
I always considered the style based on more so on SRM more so than the hops unless its getting into the 60 IBU range..I am sure if I threw in some oats I could easily call this a NEIPA.
I also mashed a little low and the WLP001 took it from 1.052 to 1.004.. Whoops.
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