Awesome, thanks for the input!
Homebrew Board - Recipes
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Last: 3 mo ago by Chipotlemonger
Ornlu said:
I'm interested in the keg shells, grain mill, and CO2 regulators.
Where are you located?
I'm in Victoria. Most of the kegs are in good shape, one of them probably needs new seals
Thats too far out for me; I'm in DFW. Thanks though.
Got my next brew planned for tomorrow.
I've switched to fermenting in corny keg shells. I've avoided brewing high IBU recipes previously because I've had oxidation problems, but now I got some floating dip tubes to keep the trub in the bottom, and it allows for easy pressure transfers. Accordingly, my next few batches are all going to be high-hop stuff that hates oxidation.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1081163/foggy-tangy-blunderbuss
Should be an absolute hop bomb.
Double Hazy, Double Dry Hopped New England India Pale Ale
4.25 gallons, 74 IBUs, 9.9% Abv
12# Belgian Pale Ale Malt
1# flaked oats
0.5# Belgian Teak malt
0.5# Victory Malt
0.25# Carapils
Mash at 152 for 90 mins
add 0.5oz Centennial with 30 mins left in the mash (first wort hops)
0.5oz Columbus for 60 mins boil
0.5oz Columbus for 15 mins boil
1oz Simcoe for 5 mins
1oz Simcoe + 1oz Columbus for 15 mins of whirlpool (at 175F)
1oz Amarillo added to fermenter (in bag) at peak krausen
1oz Amarillo added to keg (in bag) when racking
Yeast = Fermentis US-05 (Chico strain). 79% attenuation w/ starter.
Preboil Grav = 1.079
OG 1.096
FG 1.020
I've switched to fermenting in corny keg shells. I've avoided brewing high IBU recipes previously because I've had oxidation problems, but now I got some floating dip tubes to keep the trub in the bottom, and it allows for easy pressure transfers. Accordingly, my next few batches are all going to be high-hop stuff that hates oxidation.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1081163/foggy-tangy-blunderbuss
Should be an absolute hop bomb.
Double Hazy, Double Dry Hopped New England India Pale Ale
4.25 gallons, 74 IBUs, 9.9% Abv
12# Belgian Pale Ale Malt
1# flaked oats
0.5# Belgian Teak malt
0.5# Victory Malt
0.25# Carapils
Mash at 152 for 90 mins
add 0.5oz Centennial with 30 mins left in the mash (first wort hops)
0.5oz Columbus for 60 mins boil
0.5oz Columbus for 15 mins boil
1oz Simcoe for 5 mins
1oz Simcoe + 1oz Columbus for 15 mins of whirlpool (at 175F)
1oz Amarillo added to fermenter (in bag) at peak krausen
1oz Amarillo added to keg (in bag) when racking
Yeast = Fermentis US-05 (Chico strain). 79% attenuation w/ starter.
Preboil Grav = 1.079
OG 1.096
FG 1.020
Looks fantastic. Two things: Is that a Jack White reference? And do you have a link for the floating dip tubes?
It's just a name I made up.
Here's the dip tube:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/floating-dip-tube-1.html\
Here's the dip tube:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/floating-dip-tube-1.html\
Thanks! One of the main issues I've had with fermenting IPAs in kegs is the trub. This seems to be the perfect solution.
One other thing I noticed on your recipe was the US-05. Are you expecting the hops and flaked oats to provide enough haze?
One other thing I noticed on your recipe was the US-05. Are you expecting the hops and flaked oats to provide enough haze?
That is a great question, and I don't know the answer. I'm hoping for some oat haze, but also some hop haze from all those late addition and dry hops. No cold crash, and no finings of any kind. I have no idea if that will be enough.
I too am brewing tomorrow. About to get my gear together and get it clean. Finally doing my saison.
So my OG was low, again! I got close on my pale ale (1.048 vs. target of 1.050), but got a low result again today like I had on my brown ale before the pale ale (1.038 vs. target of 1.055).
It'll still be beer, and probably still tasty enough, but very annoying.
A couple of notes:
Of those 3 items, what's the ranking in how much they can each affect (read: lower) my OG?
I am thinking the non-fresh crush is hurting me, but would like to get y'all's input.
It'll still be beer, and probably still tasty enough, but very annoying.
A couple of notes:
- I may have had too low of a mash temp
- The grain was crushed not recently, this was meant to be brewed much earlier this fall, but had to put it aside unfortunately
- I am still not "surefire" on my water calculations...I upped the grain bill of this batch to counter my lower efficiency of prior batches, so figured I would have if anything too high of a gravity
Of those 3 items, what's the ranking in how much they can each affect (read: lower) my OG?
I am thinking the non-fresh crush is hurting me, but would like to get y'all's input.
The temperature is the most important of those 3 variables. How much were you off by?
Alpha amalyse is only active between 144 - 152. Beta is only active 147 - 156. If you outside those ranges, you'll get 0% efficiency. Also, if you get it over about 165, you'll denature the enzymes and get 0% even if you return it to the ideal temperature.
Grain crus matters a lot too, but can be offset some by extra stirring. I have no idea about the timing of the crush though, as I always use mine within 2 weeks of milling it.
Another huge factor in efficiency is the mash pH. Needs to be 5.2 - 5.5, depending on style. This won't cause you to be below a 70% efficiency, but you can't get 80+% without adjusting the mash pH.
Alpha amalyse is only active between 144 - 152. Beta is only active 147 - 156. If you outside those ranges, you'll get 0% efficiency. Also, if you get it over about 165, you'll denature the enzymes and get 0% even if you return it to the ideal temperature.
Grain crus matters a lot too, but can be offset some by extra stirring. I have no idea about the timing of the crush though, as I always use mine within 2 weeks of milling it.
Another huge factor in efficiency is the mash pH. Needs to be 5.2 - 5.5, depending on style. This won't cause you to be below a 70% efficiency, but you can't get 80+% without adjusting the mash pH.
I was low. Was aiming on the low end of the acceptable mash temp range (145) and I measured 140 unfortunately! I have a needle thermometer and don't have the best resolution with it. I closed that mash tun as quickly as I could once I saw the reading!
I figured that may be the biggest contributor.
Thank you for the input and info!
I figured that may be the biggest contributor.
Thank you for the input and info!
You can run a half gallon or so of mash liquid out of the mashtun, then boil it on the stove, and add it back in. Should bump your temp up 5ish degrees.
I'm gonna log this bit of advice away for a rainy day! Thanks.Ornlu said:
You can run a half gallon or so of mash liquid out of the mashtun, then boil it on the stove, and add it back in. Should bump your temp up 5ish degrees.
Does anyone have a spare Camden tablet? I'm brewing tomorrow and I forgot to pick them up today.
Pitter Patter
Sorry, just now saw this. Is it to get rid of chlorine?
Its too late now for this, but if you put your water into the boil kettle early and let it sit overnight, you will volatilize out quite a bit of the chlorine. You can accelerate that by frequent stirring. And then further accelerate it by UV (sunlight) exposure. If you have a full 24 hours, you can strip out up to 3PPM of chlorine, which is what most tap water has.
Its too late now for this, but if you put your water into the boil kettle early and let it sit overnight, you will volatilize out quite a bit of the chlorine. You can accelerate that by frequent stirring. And then further accelerate it by UV (sunlight) exposure. If you have a full 24 hours, you can strip out up to 3PPM of chlorine, which is what most tap water has.
I haven't actually started yet and I'm actually thinking about putting it off until tomorrow at this point.
Pitter Patter
Well then... Park that water in the sun and stir it every hour or so. No metabisulfite needed.
First time using kveik yeast and it's nuts. I pitched at 104 degrees about 3 hours ago and it's sitting in a 95 degree water bath currently and it's blown through the lock already. Would have hooked up a blowoff tube but never expected such a vigorous fermentation
Pitter Patter
My T-58 saison has been fermenting a week now. I let it free rise as much as it could, the probe peaked around 72 degrees or so, so the internal temp probably got up to 74. Since then, it's been gradually declining. It sat in the 65-67 range for a good few days, but has gradually been declining.
The fridge in the garage is where it is at now, yesterday I saw it go from 61 to 62, this morning 60.
Should I let it ride, or would bringing it in to a 68 degree environment help flush it out some more?
Fermentation was pretty vigorous for a couple of days, so I feel like most of the work is done and it's just needing to clear up and develop a little more right now. Worried about a potential diacetyl bomb if I don't get it into a warmer temp.
The fridge in the garage is where it is at now, yesterday I saw it go from 61 to 62, this morning 60.
Should I let it ride, or would bringing it in to a 68 degree environment help flush it out some more?
Fermentation was pretty vigorous for a couple of days, so I feel like most of the work is done and it's just needing to clear up and develop a little more right now. Worried about a potential diacetyl bomb if I don't get it into a warmer temp.
Check your grav to decide that. if it's below 1.008, warming won't help because it's already finished.
Got my next batch ordered. Gonna brew next weekend.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1087129/pre-prohibition-lager-by-josh-weikert
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1087129/pre-prohibition-lager-by-josh-weikert
Are you going to drop the temp all at once from 65 to 35 or step it down a few degrees a day?
All at once. As fast as possible.
Kegged my saison yesterday! The FG was 1.008 on the money, just need to get that OG fixed! Came in at 4% ABV, so will be a fine sessionable pour. Definitely got those classic saison flavor notes of pepper and an ester/banana aroma. Very enjoyable, hope it conditions well! Leaving it in the keg at least until the new year before I tap.
Next up, an ESB with a target OG of 1.052. This time with the goal of really nailing that OG down!
Next up, an ESB with a target OG of 1.052. This time with the goal of really nailing that OG down!
How's your stirring? Also, how's your mash pH?
This last time my stir was just twice. Should probably do more but like I said I was worried about temperature loss from opening the lid. Have been blind on mash pH, have strips though but those are weak.
Side question. If you're using BeerSmith for water calculations, do you find them to be accurate with your PH measurements?Ornlu said:
How's your stirring? Also, how's your mash pH?
I'm blind on mash pH as well, just curious if you've found BS to be accurate.
I use Brewer's Friend water calculator. The formulas in it are the same and the chemistry is correct in both. They're accurate(ish).
Your answers are only ever as good as your inputs. The result on my pH meter is sometimes off by 0.2, which is explainable by lots of stuff - starting minerals in my store-bought RO water, mineral content of the grain, accuracy of my mineral addition weights, temperature when I test, etc. I trust the water chemistry calculator way more than I trust the other steps. In the end: its accurate enough.
Your answers are only ever as good as your inputs. The result on my pH meter is sometimes off by 0.2, which is explainable by lots of stuff - starting minerals in my store-bought RO water, mineral content of the grain, accuracy of my mineral addition weights, temperature when I test, etc. I trust the water chemistry calculator way more than I trust the other steps. In the end: its accurate enough.
Thanks a bunch. I'll keep on the current path.
Ornlu said:
All at once. As fast as possible.
Are you able to control the temp? If so, step it down 3 degrees a day until you hit 35 degrees. This slow crash allows the yeast to stay active, so they'll do a better job of cleaning up the sulfur during lagering.
I'd rather crash all the cold break proteins and yeast out, so that it clears up. The little bit of yeast that make it into the secondary will have plenty of time to clean it up.
Brewed my ESB today and nailed the OG! Aimed for 1.051, got about 1.050-1.051. I'll take it.
Woohoo! What'd you do different?
I also brewed today. Came in low on volume by 0.5gal because my new kettle screen left more dead space and grub than I was expecting. I was also low on grav, but just 1.063 instead of 1.065.
I also brewed today. Came in low on volume by 0.5gal because my new kettle screen left more dead space and grub than I was expecting. I was also low on grav, but just 1.063 instead of 1.065.
So on the mash, I really made sure my strike water temp was on point. Nonetheless, I still was too low for my liking on mash temp! I used the piece of advice to drain off a gallon and boil it, then throw it back in to heat up the mash. This worked like a charm, and I actually did it twice and extended my mash time to about 75 min as well.Ornlu said:
Woohoo! What'd you do different?
I'd rather not have to do that all the time. I think that even with pre-heating my mash tun, I lose a lot of temperature. I will adjust going forward and get a hotter strike to begin with.
In terms of sparging, I felt a lot better about the process this time as well even though I did not do anything different. Just getting more comfortable with batch sparging on this setup is all. Nailed my target pre-boil volume of 6 on the dot, and was just a hair under 5 at the end of the boil.
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