I would recommend just getting a 3L (or more) flask if you're going to leap into starters.. No reason to have a 1.5L and a 3L, and at some point with a big beer you will need more than 1.5L. I almost always do 2L, even for small beers.lne2011 said:
I would stick to a basic style of beer. Definitely do a yeast starter about 3-5 days ahead of your brew day.
The only extra equipment you need for a yeast starter is an erlenmeyer flask that is at least 1.5 L to ferment your mini beer.
I've had a few Brut IPAs and have never been into them, but more power to you.Ornlu said:
After listening to 3 podcasts on Brut IPAs and drinking 4 different commercial versions of them, I'm definitely going to brew one in the near future. My goal is to get a huge floral bouquet of hops, with a very bubbly but clean background. Incredibly hop-forward is my goal. Here's what I'm thinking for a 5 gallon batch:
- https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/773444/brute-boquet
- IG of 1.046, FG of 0.997.
- 7 lbs 2-row pale, plus 0.5 lbs of rye and 0.5lbs of biscuit malt. This is just to add a spice note and a roasted note, because the glucoamalyse will remove any residual sugars.
- Mix 10 grams of the glucoamalyse into the mash. Mash at a very low temperature, 145F or so, for 60-70 minutes.
- 5 oz of total hops. Stick to floral varietals, like Simcoe, Pacifica, Citra, and Saphir.
- Use no "bittering" hop charge. Wait until 20 mins left in the boil to add first hops. Second round at 5 mins, one more addition in the whirlpool.
- 2 dry hop additions. First after 1 day in the fermenter, and the other an additional 5 days later.
- With that first dry hop addition, also add an additional 20 grams of glucoamalyse.
- Use whirfloc in kettle & gelatin finings to get crystal clear, champaign-like beer.
- Use a clean, neutral yeast like US-05.
Didn't realize it went that fast. Wow.Ornlu said:
I did use a recipe to calc it - it says 18 IBUs (10 IBUs come from 20-min addition, and 8 from the 5-minute addition).
The 1-day dry hop addition was a recommendation from a pro brewer (from Rahr?) who appeared on Come and Brew It Radio. He said that they used a generous starter of WLP001 (california ale yeast) on their ~1.050 brute IPA. About 2 hours after yeast pitch, it had already filled the blow off bucket. 12 hours after yeast pitch, it was already down to 1.035. After 24 hours, it was down near 1.002, and it finished at 0.995 after about 72 hours. Something about that glucoamalyse enzyme --> super fast fermentation.
He also said that he "wished" he had done the first dry hop at 24-hour post yeast-pitch, instead of about 48 hours. This had something do to with the "bioconversion of the hop oils". I didn't understand that part, but his advice on doing a 24-hour dry hop addition was clear to me.
If I get some haze, won't the gelatin finings clean it up?
Ornlu said:
So, on that note: What do you think of this hop schedule for my Brut IPA?
- 1oz Citra at 15 mins left in the boil
- 1oz Simcoe at 5 mins left in boil
- 1oz Saphir in the whirlpool
- 1oz Pacifica in primary fermenter (24-36 hours after yeast pitch)
- 1oz Citra in secondary
All pellets. It's OG 1.052 so that computes as 28 IBUs. I could change it up to have the low-alpha hops (Saphir, Pacifica) in the boil and all the high-alpha (Citra, Simcoe) as dry hops and get the IBUs down. I really suck at crafting this part of the recipe so advice is appreciated.
Seven said:
My cream ale needs just a little something more. The base is
6# 2 row
1.5# corn
1# rice
Hops is just bittering hops at 60 to get to 20 IBUs. I was thinking about maybe doing .25 oz at 20 minutes and then .25 oz at 5 minutes of a fruiter hop like Citra or maybe just .25 at 5 minutes. Obviously don't want much hop flavor like a pale ale, but just enough to get a slight hint of citra or something. Thoughts?
Seven said:
Yeast is S05, sometimes I'll use 34/70. I want real crisp and clean.
Dug up this old post because my CO2 tank went empty ahead of schedule (Leak, probably). Unfortunately, it looks like SimplexGrinnell was bought out and no longer fills tanks. Disappointing, because it's pretty close to me.sanitariex said:
There's some other places around dallas that refill that I've used. Bacon Supply down in Trinity Grove is a fire extinguisher shop that will refill. Also, SimplexGrinnel in Richardson will refill. You have to go around back and it's worth calling Craig, the guy that fills tanks, first to make sure he's there: (214) 681-5292
Just an option for you to look into, but have you thought of going straight to brew-in-a-bag? You'll have to make sure you have an 8 gallon pot for a small beer, which sometimes is still too small, so a 10 gallon is recommended. Other than the bag, I'm not sure if there's any wasted investment if you were to transition from BIAB to a traditional all grain method.zurcaled11 said:
I've done about 6 extract brews now and am looking to slowly make my way to all grain. The next obvious step is mini mash. It seems the main difference between the extract and minimash is the initial steeping and the flushing of the grains. Is there anything else? How do you have a steeping kettle going and them flush with 140+ water? A second boil going? Sorry for the novice questions, just trying to see what others are doing.
