The centennial blonde is great, so is the cream of three crops cream ale. Those were some of the two I was thinking of, also maybe a kolsch though sometime kolsch get too basic for me. Northern Brewer has a brick warmer holiday ale that is really great that I've done before and was planning on brewing in a few weeks for the holidays. Guess I could do a double batch. I'll post the recipe
Homebrew Board - Recipes
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Last: 3 mo ago by Chipotlemonger
Update on the lager. Taking forever to get down to pitching temp (55) but I'm almost there. Took another hydro sample this morning and the OG will be 1037. Will bump my final ABV up but not too much. Took a sip from the tube and it was actually pretty good, color looked great also. Think it will turn out just fine
For you guys with warmer ground water (Houston area) how do you chill it quicker? Only thing I saw was using a fountain pump in ice water thru an immersion chiller. Is that the only option to get down to the 50s? I can hit 80 degrees in 30-45 minutes but it's a pain past that. I see these guys in the Midwest with their plate chillers instantly dropping to 50 degrees and it is awesome.
For you guys with warmer ground water (Houston area) how do you chill it quicker? Only thing I saw was using a fountain pump in ice water thru an immersion chiller. Is that the only option to get down to the 50s? I can hit 80 degrees in 30-45 minutes but it's a pain past that. I see these guys in the Midwest with their plate chillers instantly dropping to 50 degrees and it is awesome.
That's what I do, a reciculating closed loop of ice water. With 10 gallon batches I need 2 7lbs bags to get from 90 down to 65F and a 3rd bag to get down to 55F. If you out use plate chillers I'd probably use 2, one with hose water, the second in a recirculating ice bath and you could put the entire chiller in the ice bath as well.
What really speeds up the process is if you have a pump creating a whirlpool I side your boil kettle as well. Else you need to manually swirl your wort around the coils to make it more efficient.
What really speeds up the process is if you have a pump creating a whirlpool I side your boil kettle as well. Else you need to manually swirl your wort around the coils to make it more efficient.
aTm '99
ITS MOTHER F$-@&$ BREW DAY!
What's brewing today?
Alaska
That's not terrible. I may just stick with my current process. I use an ice paddle, good grade plastic wand with 4 blades on it filled with 1/2 gallon of ice. I like it because I can stir with it easily and if it all melts I can take it apart and add more ice to it. Then I'll move my pot into my ferm chamber and just leave it, though next time I need to drop the temp much further inside the freezer. I'll put it in there and let it chill on it's own after I got it down to 85-95 and then move it to my bucket the next morning, strain, aerate and pitch.
If I go the IC route I don't want to have to buy ice every time plus get another cooler out plus the IC. Seems like too many steps
Alaska
That's not terrible. I may just stick with my current process. I use an ice paddle, good grade plastic wand with 4 blades on it filled with 1/2 gallon of ice. I like it because I can stir with it easily and if it all melts I can take it apart and add more ice to it. Then I'll move my pot into my ferm chamber and just leave it, though next time I need to drop the temp much further inside the freezer. I'll put it in there and let it chill on it's own after I got it down to 85-95 and then move it to my bucket the next morning, strain, aerate and pitch.
If I go the IC route I don't want to have to buy ice every time plus get another cooler out plus the IC. Seems like too many steps
I got an aquarium pump that I set inside a cooler full of ice water to run water through my chiller. First time I used it I did not get enough ice. Important to leave some headspace in the cooler for when you add ice and it melts.
Once I got enough ice for the next brew, it worked great. Didn't take much additional hardware over what I already had on hand either, just an adapter for the chiller hose from the pump.
Getting the ice isn't too big of a problem and I use the IC wort chiller anyways, so it's not much added labor.
Once I got enough ice for the next brew, it worked great. Didn't take much additional hardware over what I already had on hand either, just an adapter for the chiller hose from the pump.
Getting the ice isn't too big of a problem and I use the IC wort chiller anyways, so it's not much added labor.
I get to 5 degrees above ground water temp(80 degrees+ in Dallas) with my immersion chiller. I use a chest freezer as my fermentation chamber, so after cooling I transfer wort to fermenter, then wait until it reaches pitching temp.
Triple chocolate stout.
Sparge was SUPER stuck. Waited an hour + for it to drain. It wasn't so much a stuck sparge as an equipment failure. After an hour, I had the bright idea to use my mouth to blow air backwards through the output hose. Fixed it instantly!
Whodathunkit that you have to blow on the soft hose to get the good stuff inside to come out.
Sparge was SUPER stuck. Waited an hour + for it to drain. It wasn't so much a stuck sparge as an equipment failure. After an hour, I had the bright idea to use my mouth to blow air backwards through the output hose. Fixed it instantly!
Whodathunkit that you have to blow on the soft hose to get the good stuff inside to come out.
Here is the holiday ale that I may do for my event. I'm brewing it in about 3 weeks for my personal stash. Was a huge hit last year.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/707192/brickwarmer-holiday-ale
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/707192/brickwarmer-holiday-ale
In rush to keg. Gas dip tube is too wide for this keg. Can I throw an o-ring on by itself to seal the post and feel good about it?
Not sure on that one. In your situation, I would assemble as stated and put some gas on the keg to see if it holds for 24 hours.
Long edit: Considering the poppet inside the post is spring loaded, I would think it wouldn't work. It pushes down on the gas tube to keep a seal at the top of the post as well as at the tube. Removing the tube might cause a situation where the poppet has no tube to push down on, causing it to not hold pressure.
However, if you have gas on it all the time, I believe that seal forms on the outside of the post, so not having a gas tube wouldn't be a problem. Could be wrong though. That's why I say try it out.
Long edit: Considering the poppet inside the post is spring loaded, I would think it wouldn't work. It pushes down on the gas tube to keep a seal at the top of the post as well as at the tube. Removing the tube might cause a situation where the poppet has no tube to push down on, causing it to not hold pressure.
However, if you have gas on it all the time, I believe that seal forms on the outside of the post, so not having a gas tube wouldn't be a problem. Could be wrong though. That's why I say try it out.
Thanks for the input.
Ended up trying it out earlier but it was not air tight. Was able to turn it upside down and have a good liquid seal, but pressurizing the keg brought about a small leak.
Will have to give it a go tomorrow evening now. At least I got a head start on cleaning the keg and parts. Annoying that this keg just so happens to be different though.
Ended up trying it out earlier but it was not air tight. Was able to turn it upside down and have a good liquid seal, but pressurizing the keg brought about a small leak.
Will have to give it a go tomorrow evening now. At least I got a head start on cleaning the keg and parts. Annoying that this keg just so happens to be different though.
Some kegs have different diameter openings for the gas and liquid dip tubes. So the liquid tube will fit in the gas line, but gas won't fit in the liquid. I'm making a few assumptions that you tore the keg down for cleaning and maybe swapped the dip tubes? Else how would you have a gas dip tube that won't fit?
There are 4 (I think) manufacturers of corny kegs. I made the mistake of tearing down 6 at a time once and it was the devil putting them all back together correctly since all the small parts went in the same bucket. Posts, springs and dip tubes aren't all interchangeable. And the In/Out on the same keg can be different.
There are 4 (I think) manufacturers of corny kegs. I made the mistake of tearing down 6 at a time once and it was the devil putting them all back together correctly since all the small parts went in the same bucket. Posts, springs and dip tubes aren't all interchangeable. And the In/Out on the same keg can be different.
aTm '99
On this keg there's the clear IN and OUT markings on the plastic handles, so I got the sides right. The liquid dip tube is straight as well, so on the floor of the keg you can also tell which side it's supposed to drop down from.AlaskanAg99 said:
Some kegs have different diameter openings for the gas and liquid dip tubes. So the liquid tube will fit in the gas line, but gas won't fit in the liquid. I'm making a few assumptions that you tore the keg down for cleaning and maybe swapped the dip tubes? Else how would you have a gas dip tube that won't fit?
There are 4 (I think) manufacturers of corny kegs. I made the mistake of tearing down 6 at a time once and it was the devil putting them all back together correctly since all the small parts went in the same bucket. Posts, springs and dip tubes aren't all interchangeable. And the In/Out on the same keg can be different.
I threw away the prior gas dip tube because it was a plastic one that was very worn and I did not want to use it. Didn't think about it being a different dimension when I purchased a metal replacement dip tube, but I guess I should have, considering I had to get two new posts for the top of the keg.
Ah, I see. You may have to read the side of the keg to figure out who made it and try to find a replacement part. I have a few like that and yeah, the plastic is junk.
aTm '99
Just moved my light lager over to my other vessel to finish out. Added amylase like planned so I'll see if it gets down as low as I want. My concern I noticed was strong sulphur smell. Used W 34/70 yeast. OG was 1.037 pitched and held at 54 degrees for a week then 65 for 3 days. How long for the smell to get cleaned up or is there something else I need to do? Was planning on holding it at 54 for another week while the amylase and yeast do their thing and then crashing for a few days before kegging.
lager only 1 week?Seven said:
Just moved my light lager over to my other vessel to finish out. Added amylase like planned so I'll see if it gets down as low as I want. My concern I noticed was strong sulphur smell. Used W 34/70 yeast. OG was 1.037 pitched and held at 54 degrees for a week then 65 for 3 days. How long for the smell to get cleaned up or is there something else I need to do? Was planning on holding it at 54 for another week while the amylase and yeast do their thing and then crashing for a few days before kegging.
One thing My uncle taught me (who has a dozen or more medals, mostly lagers), let that thing sit. Go 3-4 weeks min.
Time will clear out the sulphur.
aTm '99
That's just what my plan was. I hadn't really thought about it much.
I ended up making this with champagne yeast, and the 3 lb can of dark-sweet cherry puree. OG was 1.052. I kegged this on Saturday, and tapped it yesterday. It did end up super dry, FG was 0.998. 7.1% ABV. It's not quite as tart as I was hoping, but that makes my wife happy. It's almost maroon in color.Ornlu said:
I'm about to make some cider. A clone of Bishop Ciders "Crackberry".
3.75 gallons apple juice
0.5 gallons cran apple juice
0.5 gallons pure cranberry juice
0.25 gallons pure cherry juice
1lb corn sugar
1lb fresh cranberries
0.5lb fresh blackberries
boil the fresh fruit and sugar in cranberry juice for 3 mins to sanitize
Question is what yeast? I've done US-05 for this in the past.
Or I could reuse the yeast off my wee heavy (WLP-028). Or I could buy some champagne yeast.
I want this SUPER dry, FG of 0.997 or less.
Wracking it to the keg, my auto-siphon kept getting clogged with cherry skins, so I know a few of them made it into the keg. I expect that at some point it'll clog the liquid out tube & keg tap line. Any advise for how to clear that?
Depends on where the clog is. Easiest is to put a liquid QD on your gas line, burp the keg, then try to push the clog out using gas. This will however disturb any trub you have on the floor of the keg.
Option 2 is to open the release valve and take pressure out, then quickly remove the liquid post and poppet and replace it with a set that's sanitized...if the clog is jammed in the poppet spring.
Option 3, is use a sure screen filter on the bottom of your diptube...but you need to attach this when keg is empty.
I do a Christmas Pomegranate Cider with champagne yeast, pom fruit and get it to 10% ABV with sugar for a pink hue. High carb for the spritzy bubbles...and that stuff is deadly.
Option 2 is to open the release valve and take pressure out, then quickly remove the liquid post and poppet and replace it with a set that's sanitized...if the clog is jammed in the poppet spring.
Option 3, is use a sure screen filter on the bottom of your diptube...but you need to attach this when keg is empty.
I do a Christmas Pomegranate Cider with champagne yeast, pom fruit and get it to 10% ABV with sugar for a pink hue. High carb for the spritzy bubbles...and that stuff is deadly.
aTm '99
Gonna do another cider this year as well. Just finishing the second keg of the one I made last September. Going with just apple juice and will back sweeten with some frozen concentrate.. gonna see what's available when I go to store today. Hopefully a cherry/pomegranate or cranberry/pomegranate.
Only doing 5 gallons this time and splitting with neighbor, so just gonna wing this one!
Only doing 5 gallons this time and splitting with neighbor, so just gonna wing this one!
Well we floated 3 kegs tonight. An Irish red ale, pumpkin ale, and saison. Pretty awesome experience to share my homebrew with so many people. Objectively speaking the saison was the best. It was the fullest keg at the start but was finished first. I think the pumpkin ale could've been much better with some more time spent aging in the keg.
Glad I had a spare and full CO2 tank on hand! Had to do an unexpected swap this afternoon. And it took a little trial and error to dial in the regulator, but everything turned out great in the end.
Last night had to do some "emergency" decarbonating on the pumpkin ale, it had too much on it. Unhooked the gas after dropping its pressure down a bit. It performed much better today. All in all, I am one happy camper.
Glad I had a spare and full CO2 tank on hand! Had to do an unexpected swap this afternoon. And it took a little trial and error to dial in the regulator, but everything turned out great in the end.
Last night had to do some "emergency" decarbonating on the pumpkin ale, it had too much on it. Unhooked the gas after dropping its pressure down a bit. It performed much better today. All in all, I am one happy camper.
Unfortunately I have to follow Chipotle's sweet pic...
FINALLY got back to brewing this weekend after a very busy and hot summer. Got a malt bill from a Two-Hearted clone online and changed up the hops to what I had in the freezer - Chinook bittering, Centennial and Azaca additions and dry hopping.
Everything went well but I cannot get a good seal on the Fermonester. It's not terribly concerning since I plan on pulling it out as soon as it's done but it needs to be fixed. Anyone have any insight?
FINALLY got back to brewing this weekend after a very busy and hot summer. Got a malt bill from a Two-Hearted clone online and changed up the hops to what I had in the freezer - Chinook bittering, Centennial and Azaca additions and dry hopping.
Everything went well but I cannot get a good seal on the Fermonester. It's not terribly concerning since I plan on pulling it out as soon as it's done but it needs to be fixed. Anyone have any insight?
How's the O-ring condition? I usually change out most O-rings annually.
It looked fine when i checked it before putting the lid on but I didn't look real hard. I'll probably change it out regardless now and see if that helps.
How many extract batches did yall make before switching to all grain? I have brewed two batches and have the bug, but not sure if I know enough to venture to all grain.
4 years, when I was in a small apartment. There are some tips to making cleaner extract beer and you can still use the equipment in all grain. So I slowly grew into AG as budget and space allowed.
aTm '99
I only did 2 all extract, then about 5 partial mash (extract with steeping grains), then all grain since then.Collard Greens said:
How many extract batches did yall make before switching to all grain? I have brewed two batches and have the bug, but not sure if I know enough to venture to all grain.
You don't need to know anything to do one.. just copy some recipes (and follow a basic guideline of steps) to begin with, you'll learn what you need to know over time.
Write down your steps, I find that helps.
did about the same here
5-6 extract kits with steeping grains. Then all grain. I took a break for 3 years or so. When I switched to kegging is when I really got the bug. Makes life so much better.
I win a bunch of extract cans, so I'm probably going to do an extract batch with steeping grains for the first time in a decade.
Probably a stout.
Probably a stout.
aTm '99
Depending on the flavor of the extract you should save them for yeast starters
CO2 thru the liquid dip tube trick cleared a clog last night. Thanks.
Seven said:
Depending on the flavor of the extract you should save them for yeast starters
That's not a bad idea. I would just have to figure a way to store the LME in between. I'm also taking a break from brewing so I guess I have a lot of time to figure that out.
aTm '99
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