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Homebrew Board - Recipes

429,903 Views | 3354 Replies | Last: 3 mo ago by Chipotlemonger
Ornlu
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Overshot target volume by 2 gallons and undershot. iG by 0.015. frustration.
txagfisher
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Why not just continue to boil until you hit desired OG?
G. hirsutum Ag
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How many hops additions did you have left? I wouldn't think it would cause that much issue. Would be like adding hops at flame out instead of 5-10 minutes. Just make it slightly less bitter
Ornlu
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The frustration was really just drunkenness. Now that I've sobered up, here's what happened. Started boil around 7pm. Was 14.5 gallons of 1.054 wort. When the gravity hit 1.062 (about 2 hours later), I added the bittering hops and started a 90 min timer. Then, 20 mins later, I ran out of propane. My wife picked me up some more , and I let the clock keep running. Added the flavor hops about 10 mins later than anticipated, but else went smoothly.

I ended up with 10.75 gallons at 1.084. a few points low, but not too bad.

I also saved about a gallon of the tail runnings, to use for my next starter. Gravity is like 1.035. boiled it for 20 mins and then froze it.

Next time, I'm gonna drink less and concentrate on brewing more...
G. hirsutum Ag
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"Next time, I'm gonna drink less and concentrate on brewing more..."

What's the fun in that??
62strat
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Sounds like next time you need to make sure you have a back up tank!

I have a 30lb and two 20s. FYI a blue rhino tank 'exchange' only has 15 lbs in it. If you bring it to a place that refills, not only is it probably less money, but they'll actually put 20 lbs in it.

I paid $16 for 20 pounds the other day. Blue rhino exchange around me is ~$20 for 15 lbs.
Ornlu
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I usually have a backup tank, but when I moved about 3 months ago it disappeared. I'll get that going again for next brew.
G. hirsutum Ag
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My backup tank was out of date so I got forced into an exchange at a different store. Definitely lighter but now I got the tank so should be good for a while. My uhaul place 6 blocks away does refills for $15. Can't beat it
G. hirsutum Ag
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For the style my "Notty Blonde" came out great. Blondies aren't my favorite style but it is on point for the style. Have a party tomorrow and it will be a crowd pleaser. Cloudy from the chilled glass

AlaskanAg99
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Wife brewed her 2nd attempt at her Wit. First was good but was lacking the spice. So we adjusted the recipe, using WYeast. 1st batch was 10 gallons split on WL and WY, we prefer the WAY. Anyway, so this is a 5 gal batch. We have a 20 gallon system and it is not optomized for 5 g, even using my old 15g kettle as the MT.

Old kettle has weldless fittings, so I told her it'd be cheaper to just punch new holes and get everything welded in place for 5 gal batches. She says yes and to get it done before she brews again.

This kettle is a decade old and I'm finally getting the fittings upgraded to welded by wife's orders. I love her.
G. hirsutum Ag
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Decided to up the carb level slightly on the blonde. I had it at 2.56ish volumes. Going to kick it up to 2.61 area just to give it a bit more head.

Edit: thought I had it at 2.56 but I over guessed my temp and had it at 2.22. Will have it at 2.56 now which should be just right. Old fridge and no thermometer inside.

Edit 2: kicked it up for an hour. Now it's perfect. Carb improved the taste too. Now will let it settle for tomorrow. Can't wait.
G. hirsutum Ag
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Blonde ale was a huge hit yesterday. I'm going to change the hops next time to liven it up a bit. I'm thinking swap out the cascade for Citra and then add some Citra at flameout.

Any ideas how long I should let my Kolsch ferment? I was thinking 2 in primary and 1 in secondary
AlaskanAg99
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There's really no reason to move to secondary. It's really just an extra chance to oxidize the beer.

I'd only move to secondary if A: you can purge with CO2 before OR because you're adding fruit or another fermentable which while scrub out any O2 introduced OR you're dry hopping (need CO2 purge).

Then once a day if it has fruit or oak or hops, pick it up and swirl it around to resuspend stuff for greater contact time.

If a regular beer, let it sit and finish in one vessel. Oxygen is your greatest enemy.
G. hirsutum Ag
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I move it to free up my main fermentation vessel. I don't like doing primary in a carboy if I can avoid it
62strat
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Just wait another week. I don't do secondary for anything. Plan ahead so you aren't forced to free up your fermenter.
G. hirsutum Ag
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Thanks for the input. Any ideas on how long to let it ferment?
62strat
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Lager or ale? Lagers, let em sit. 3 weeks min. You can go 4-5.

Ales are generally good at 3 weeks.
G. hirsutum Ag
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Ya it's an ale. Kolsch yeast
G. hirsutum Ag
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Austin home brew doing free shipping thru tomorrow on orders over $49. I just put together two more recipes. The blonde ale again and an IPA I just finished that was fantastic
62strat
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62strat said:

Just wait another week. I don't do secondary for anything. Plan ahead so you aren't forced to free up your fermenter.
Let me rephrase; After primary fermentation, the only transfer I ever do is into a keg. If lagering or secondary is required, I do it in the keg. I currently just gravity feed from fermenter into keg, purging keg first with CO2, but one day I plan to pressure transfer to eliminate any possibility of oxygen exposure.
AlaskanAg99
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I do 2 weeks for ales, unless it's a Belgian or very high gravity in which case I'll watch nd test it. Else anything under 1.060 gets 2 weeks then to the keg. I do all my dry hopping and oak aging in kegs with a surescreen or something similar, then rack to a clean keg when it's done.

Lagers I let go and don't even bother to test them until about week 3.
Ornlu
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62strat said:

62strat said:

Just wait another week. I don't do secondary for anything. Plan ahead so you aren't forced to free up your fermenter.
Let me rephrase; After primary fermentation, the only transfer I ever do is into a keg. If lagering or secondary is required, I do it in the keg. I currently just gravity feed from fermenter into keg, purging keg first with CO2, but one day I plan to pressure transfer to eliminate any possibility of oxygen exposure.
What does your CO2 purging rig look like? I want to build one but I've never seen one.
G. hirsutum Ag
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Unscrew one of your ball locks on your gas line. Drop the line in and turn the manifold on for a few seconds.
62strat
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I just hook it up to my spare tank, open regulator/valve, purge with pop off valve on keg. Just like you do when you fill keg with beer and purge.

This is after I run starsan through it.
Ornlu
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That would require disconnecting my other kegs. That's way more work than I'd like to make it.

Strat, any way to do that from my main (read: only) tank?
62strat
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Yeh just pop off a gas QD from an existing keg and pop it on the keg you want to purge (keeping the keg lid on). Let it fill a bit, then pull little pop off valve to bleed oxygen. (CO2 is heavier than air, so it goes to bottom). Do that for a couple cycles. Do this After you've sanitized it of course.

Get ready to fill keg as soon as you take off the lid. You'll see the smokey CO2 swirls. As you fill the keg with beer (always fill down the dip tube or from the bottom with a long hose, never let it just splash in there) it will push out CO2, again any oxygen should remain on top of CO2 envelope.

Fill, put on lid and purge again. Replace QD back on your existing keg.

Or get a tee in your gas line somewhere so you can have a spare QD on it ready to go for this so you don't have to disconnect any kegs.

To be even more thorough, use CO2 to push out all of your sanitizer through dip tube. Then you know all oxygen is out of the system. Remove lid and quickly fill.
AlaskanAg99
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I fill my kegs with starsan, then use a jumper line and go keg to keg a few times. If I add dry hops, I fill/transfer/open lid quickly, dump them in, seal it up and then I have a liquid black DQ hooked to the gas line so I can fill with CO2 from the bottom of the keg, and purge it a few times.

Also, buy a 20lbs tank. They cost maybe $7 more to fill than a 5lbs tank. Way more bang for your buck. The Homebrew stores charge an arm and a leg for fills, so go to AirGas or similar and swap tanks. Much cheaper.
62strat
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20lb tank swap near me is $7. Half the price of a 5lb refill hah. It's at a weed grow/supply store.

I have a 15lb for kegerator and two 5s for odds and ends and mobility.
AlaskanAg99
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I have a 15 and a 20 plus a few 5's for of **** emergencies. I keep meaning to find another 20.

Took off early to knock out a Czech Pils before we leave for the weekend. It was brew today and have it ready in 3.5 weeks or brew next weekend and it's ready in July. Had to use SafLager 23 b/c I didn't plan ahead. First time using this one.
Ornlu
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You got regulators just laying around for all those too? Around here, those cost a little more than the tanks and a LOT more than the refills.
AlaskanAg99
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After 14 years I have a lot of everything. Most of my equipment is 2nd hand, with the exception of the brew sculpture. Join clubs and buy stuff even when you don't need it when it's cheap. I have at least 2 regulators that need fixing, and I just dropped one and now I need to replace the tank fill gauge.

I got both.my Conicals second hand. Built a lot of stuff myself.

Eventually you can buy stuff cheap-ish if you know you're in it for the long run. I also don't want to know how much I've spent over the years. Properly invested I probably could have retired 5 years earlier but that's the futures problem.

I also watch Craigslist almost weekly looking for deals.
62strat
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Ornlu said:

You got regulators just laying around for all those too? Around here, those cost a little more than the tanks and a LOT more than the refills.
yeh they add up.

I have 2 primarys on my 20lb and just a single primary on my 5s. Then a few single gage regulators if I ever want to add them in line somewhere.

As with Alaskan, I've been doing this for 10 years, so the **** just piles up over the years. If you are really in it, then just don't even sell anything. You may think you won't need it because you're upgrading or whatever, but you'll have a use for it, trust.

AlaskanAg99
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I think Strat and I are.classified as "lifestyle Brewers". I brew about 2x a month, 9 taps, walk-in cold room and basically a pro-pilot system. I have absolutely no desire to go pro. I will buy a 7 gal conical soon and I need to have some new fitting welded on my OG 15gal MT from '08 for lower gravity batches.

My biggest problem is my wife will want to park her car in my brewery when we get her a new car. My issue is I have a really nice cabinet table saw in here too and it eats up a ton of space. Powermatic from the early 70's with full cast iron side tables from the 60's. It weighs an absolute ton.

She brews as well...but I got storm clouds on the horizon.
62strat
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I don't brew that often, maybe 6-10x a year, but I simply got lucky with my Uncle giving me all of his equipment, which is above and beyond what most homebrewers have. It's probably $~10k worth of stuff, on top of stuff I already had, and probably a couple grand worth of stuff I've added on since then. It's a long way from where I started with plastic buckets and coleman cooler mash tun.

The other big difference between brewing while living in TX and now is I have a third slot in garage for my gear/keezer, and I have a basement, which will house my brewery when we get around to finishing it in a few years.

Ornlu
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I brew about once a month, and have for the almost 10 years now. However, I'm a cheap skate at heart & if I can build it DIY or get it second hand I will. Regulators (well, working ones at least) is just one of those things I haven't been able to come across for less than $50 each.
 
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