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Homebrew Board - Recipes

429,749 Views | 3354 Replies | Last: 3 mo ago by Chipotlemonger
dave99ag
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I approve of this message.
dave99ag
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Came across this article on the Verge about testing for bacteria in beer at Russian River:

Spoiled rotten: how breweries are trying to spot bad beer through DNA
Kyle98
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Interesting stuff, thanks for sharing!
AlaskanAg99
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Did a 10 gallon, 3 day sour mash for a berliner weisse. Kegged 5 gal on sunday, racked 5 gal onto blackberry puree last night. 1.008 FG and about 4%ABV, some really nice complexity going on. First time to do a sour mash, babysitting it for 3 days wasn't fun but the final product is pretty tasty.
Kyle98
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I eventually want to try a Berliner Weisse.
AlaskanAg99
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There are 3 or 4 ways to make them, which is rather unusual for such a simple beer ingredient wise. I bought another mashtun off CL just for making this style. Now I just need to modify it to make the whole process easier and faster.
farmer2010
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I haven't gathered the courage to try a sour mash yet. Did you take any special measures to prevent unwanted strains of bacteria from ruining your batch? Temp control, purging the air, etc?
AlaskanAg99
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Yes, that's why it was a labor intensive pain. I bought a used round Coleman mashtun off of CL then added a thermo well so I could monitor temps. I just harvested the hardware from another mashtun I retired. Do a 60min mash then let it cool down to 120F. This takes....for...ever.
We put a layer of saran wrap (which is a surprisingly good O2 barrier) on top and pushed out the bubbles. Once at 129F added a pound of pils malt to inoculate it. Every 12 hrs it'd be near 110F so we'd heat it back up to nearly 120F. No off aromas.

Best is to start this on Thursday after work, let it cool until Friday morning, innoculate, then maintain Temps every 12 hrs and do your final boil/cooling/rack to fermenter on Sunday night.
jock itch
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quote:
Yes, that's why it was a labor intensive pain. I bought a used round Coleman mashtun off of CL then added a thermo well so I could monitor temps. I just harvested the hardware from another mashtun I retired. Do a 60min mash then let it cool down to 120F. This takes....for...ever.
We put a layer of saran wrap (which is a surprisingly good O2 barrier) on top and pushed out the bubbles. Once at 129F added a pound of pils malt to inoculate it. Every 12 hrs it'd be near 110F so we'd heat it back up to nearly 120F. No off aromas.
Interesting. I don't have any experience w/ sour mashes, but my thought was to just let the mash cool and inoculate itself considering how much lacto is floating around in the air anyways. Another brewer I spoke to that makes one of the best Goses I've ever had said he just monitors pH to know when it's "done" which seems to make sense to me. What that exact pH is he wasn't willing to disclose though! My uneducated guess would probably be somewhere in the 4.2 range resulting in a finished beer somewhere between 3.2-3.4. Totally just spitballing though.

But you aren't kidding about it taking forever to drop in temp. On our mash tun, it would probably take 24 hours just to get into the 120F range...so our plan was to mash in the morning before and (hopefully) start the lauter sometime the following day. I really want to fit one of these into our schedule but I just haven't grown the balls yet!
dave99ag
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AlaskanAg99
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i was working from the directions from a friend. I'd had their berliner and then followed their process. You can sour mash, sour kettle or do the souring post clean fermentation. Lots of ways to get to the end result. I've soured the wort in a carboy, no boil and no hops, for a week and then did a 15 minute boil a week later with good results but i think this method with using naturally occurring lactobacillis has tasted the best. It did take 12 hrs to drop from 148 to 120. And innoculated with raw grain to jump start the souring. 3 days seems to be the sweet spot with lactic acid based off my friends experience. They said 2 days just wasn't quite enough and that shoots a single weekend schedule.

As for using lactobacillis floating around, you want to keep an oxygen barrier on the mash to reduce O2 exposure which helps acetobacter from taking root. I did not check the pH when done as I forgot I had the test strips. Inhave 5 gallons on blackberry puree right now, so I can test that later.

Simple recipe but complicated process. Tastes damn good though. Gose is on the schedule as is doing a sour brown followed by a 60mi n boil. It's my understanding lactic acid will remain unchanged through the process. If it works it opens up browns and blonds to souring. This could be my summer of sours.
dave99ag
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I'm breaking in the eBIAB system this weekend with a simple SMaSH - 2-Row w/ Falconer's Flight. I have 2 oz to play with, so I'm still mulling over my options on the hop schedule.
AlaskanAg99
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What is the OG you're shooting for?
dave99ag
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Probably around 1.050 and then shooting for 1.011 - 1.010. I'm not overly concerned about the numbers as I'm more wanting to work out all of the kinks of the system.

Curious as to what software y'all are using to plan out the brew day?
Kyle98
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I use a combination of BeerSmith, BIABacus, Brewer's Friend, and a spreadsheet I made myself. On brew day itself, I use a checklist my spreadsheet generates. It's still a work in progress, I end up tweaking it after every brew.
AlaskanAg99
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That's not a lot of hops for a 1.050 beer. At least to get a lot of hop character from it. If you can a cheap buttering hop use that at 60m and use your falconer at 10 minutes.

I use promash and am learning beersmith2.
AlaskanAg99
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Buttering hops are bad. Try a bittering hop instead. Like warrior or magnum.
dave99ag
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You mean I shouldn't add a stick of butter at the beginning of the boil?
Kyle98
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laugh/cry
Sooner Born
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You mean I shouldn't add a stick of butter at the beginning of the boil?
Beer doesn't need anymore help being fattening. It is plenty effective as is.
AlaskanAg99
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Butter beer....ugh.... there's enough crappy homebrew if you want butter. Might as well Bottle beer with a slim jim Inside.
dave99ag
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That's genius!

I'm going to dry-hop a saison I'm brewing soon with Slim-Jims.
Sooner Born
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True Story...At a beer festival, I had a pale ale that was "dry hopped" with sour patch kids. It was terrible.
AlaskanAg99
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So if the aroma doesn't make you gag the meat stick going down your throat will?

Liability Ale, if you survive, you can sue us.
dave99ag
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The label ideas could be endless.

Oooooo yeah!!!!!



Kyle98
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You can call it Macho Man Saison!

Kyle98
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Damn it, I took too long looking for a good picture!!!
dave99ag
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I'm definitely naming it that just because.
AlaskanAg99
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That's hilarious!
WorkBoots09
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In honor of National Homebrew Day, I'm brewing 5g of this RIS tomorrow:

17 lb Maris Otter
1 lb Flaked Oats
1 lb Roasted Barley
.75 lb Special B
.75lb Chocolate Malt

1oz Target @ 60 min
2oz Challenger @ 30 min

Not sure on the yeast, but I plan on splitting the batch with chipotle, tamarindo, and cacao nibs, so I wanted something that won't die out at about 10% and would be relatively neutral. I plan to age it at least until November.
AlaskanAg99
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Use Cal ale yeast, wlp001 or us-05...not sure what wyeast is. It'll chew through the sugars and can get to 10%.
fav13andac1)c
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Question from a first time homebrewer. If I let my beer go a day longer than the scheduled fermentation time, will this affect it significantly? If so, in what ways?
AlaskanAg99
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A few days won't make much difference. Temperature will have a bigger impact than leaving it on the yeast. The only real effect might be it attenuation the sugars a bit more but it won't spoil your beer with off flavors. I have a Russian imperial stout now on yeast for a month at 68F. I ran out of time this past weekend to keg it but it won't have negative off flavors. If anything I'm hoping it will have had extra time to dry the beer out a bit more.
fav13andac1)c
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Thanks for the reply. As far as temperature goes, I'm not exactly keeping track, but I know it should be sitting at about 70 dF. Do you use some sort of temp controller for keeping it at that level?

Edit: And mine's a brown ale, if that helps.
AlaskanAg99
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Fermentation temp control is a fairly important part of the process. using an old refrigerator and an external thermostat can allow you to dial in and maintain constant temps. if space/budget is an issue you can Google a swamp immersion setup for homebrewing. But yes, for nearly all ale yeasts keeping it between 65-70 is a good rule of thumb
 
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