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Not terribly exciting.

The way the previous owner of my jeep wired the fan pulled off the alternator for voltage I'm guessing for temp sensor to give a signal to turn on the fan. Well the previous owner also tried to wire in a switch on to that turn on wire that was unprotected. So it passed power back up to the alternator & into the voltage regulator in the PCM.

Well now the alternator won't charge the battery and I get a check engine light that reads vacuum pump failure as well as the check gauges light. All these signs point to a fried voltage regulator which is internal to the PCM. Luckily these go out frequently on Chrysler products as there's a kit to install an external regulator that mimics the internal one & provides a seperate unit for $75. This means you don't have to replace the $400 PCM.

Other than that, it'll run great with a fully charged battery. But that only lasts 20 minutes or so without the alternator working.

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Ooh yeah that doesn't sound fun. As a co-worker says, the secret to electrical work is to try not to let the magic smoke out.

My Amazon order with the Diodes didn't show up like it was supposed to yesterday, so I'm kinda dead in the water on wrapping this install up.

NICE!

I would envision ensuring that when the AC is on, you should have maximum heat removal. Both fans on with the AC on. The question I have is:

Why would leaving both fans on with the AC off be bad? I know you want to keep coolant at a constant temperature, but that's the job of the thermostat, right?

Why not split the signal from the controller to both fans? Treat them as double units, rather than 2 individual fans? Would make the control of the system a bit easier, rather than trying to optimize each individually.

Just thoughts from an engineer who does controls from time to time.

~egon

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I think the only down side is for example last night, I took a spin around the block with AC on(and both fans as they are currently jumpered together), and Engine temps took a long time to come up even above 160.

In all reality, I may be over thinking this.

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Yeah, that's what I was thinking. But IIRC, a thermostat is supposed to be fully closed when it is cold. I realize you can get into a situation where it heats up, opens, but then sees really 'cold' antifreeze, so it clamps down again. Eventually you heat up the radiator stock enough so that the thermostat stays at a cracked position to equal the heat gain vs. heat loss.

At the end of the day, does that hurt the engine (besides thermodynamically) to keep the block cooler than 190/160/210F?

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The carpet really ties the interior together!

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~egon

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At the end of the day, does that hurt the engine (besides thermodynamically) to keep the block cooler than 190/160/210F?

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Probably not....although there is a lot of internet chatter about LS engines performing noticeably better at temps above the 195-200 range.

It's not like I'm bracket racing this thing though, so not really that concerned as long as the AC blows ice cubes.

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The carpet really ties the interior together!

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It looks great! Just don't let the rug-pee-ers anywhere near it. And treat yourself to a White Russian!

Fuel efficiency definitely takes a hit when the engine is not up to temp. Also, frequent short trips where the engine doesn't warm up can lead to condensation in the oil.

I think multiple-speed fans (even just high/low) are the way to go. Both fans run on low whenever the A/C is on, unless the A/C pressure or engine coolant temperature is too high, in which case they kick up to high. With A/C off, they are in the off/low/high state dependent solely on engine temperature. That's how my Jetta does it and it works really well. The A/C blows cold and the engine warms up quickly, and the fans only go into high speed on a hot day.

Sweet! I actually just blasted a set of '74 plates for my brother. He has a TR6 he's working on and picked up the vintage plates to match. They have the red lettering.
I had to switch to an actual sand media, as the glass beads weren't very effective on these newer plates.

Haven't updated this thread in forever....been enjoying the car and driving here and there.
We tried to go to the Texas Hoedown car show earlier in the spring, that ended in near disaster after the fuel pump went out on 288 just inside the loop. This was the end result, yay!


Not sure why a Wahbro fuel pump with less than 1500 miles went out. I put the OEM pump that came in the Spectre tank back in, and it has been running fine, but they don't have a great reputation for reliability either. Anyway, I've got a Racetronix pump on the work bench waiting to be installed when the current tank of gas runs low.


We did have a successful trip up to BCS for the Bluebonnet Rod Run, that was fun and the car ran great. I think I averaged about 21mpg for that trip, which included a few burnouts and hard pulls .


Of course I couldn't resist to do another upgrade. I've determined that my LS1 intake is probably costing me some power, so upgrading it could result in some double digit horsepower gains.

Instead of springing for the $1500 FAST 102mm set up and all the goodies, I decided to try out the new Dorman LS2 92mm replacement manifold. They are on Rockauto for $300 plus shipping, and LS1tech gurus have tested them, proving the outflow the LS6 manifold.
Allegedly Dorman bought the FAST 92mm mold for the base, and the top portion is an improved LS2 design.
Looks like this:


Picked up a WARR 90mm throttle body off of Craigslist for cheap.


I may start the intake swap early next week, I'll try to take a few pics.

I've also toyed around with the idea of getting some aftermarket heads also, which would REALLY wake this motor up. They aren't cheap though. Texas Speed has some CNC ported, as cast LS6 heads that would be about $1500. I'll have to stew on that one for awhile.

I snagged the same TB in the aluminum finish the other week once they were no longer on backorder. Couldn't bring myself to spend $350 on a Nick Williams lol

Yeah I know the NW TBs are the best, but $100 is hard to pass up when the guy lived 5 minutes from my house.
Hopefully no tuning issues.

Who's doing your tuning these days? I checked with my tuner and he was fine with tuning on the cheap TB's. From the reading I did, seemed like the Warr were the least troublesome. Even saw the owners jump in on one thread and sent the guy a new TB.

I'm really thinking about doing a Dyno Tune next time around.
More than anything for confirmation about the power it's making. It pulls hard especially up top, but sometimes I think it should be able to blow off the tires more than it does. IDK.

On my phone and not the easiest to go research the whole thread until I get home tonight, remind me, are you DBW or cable?

You has my attention on intake !

I'm cable driven, but the Dorman Manifold should be compatible with either. In fact it is also compatible with the LS1/LS6 fuel rails and injectors, as well as the LS2 style. It comes with Brackets to adapt the LS2 rails.

If you want an intake, you have the room for a GMT900 intake (better performing). It doesn't look as good bare, but you can put a cover on it easily

It's a more costly swap if you're DBW since you'd need an x-link.

I think that's what I have isn't it? The truck manifold? I know it makes more power - but LS1 style looks cooler.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/20-ls1-intake-manifolds-tested/
The 07.5-13 4.8 & 5.3 manifolds are identical to the TBSS intake.

You're correct though, there's no denying the LS1/2/6 intakes look much better bare.

You could always smooth it and hydro dip it!

On a side note, I took the dremel to the new Dorman intake last night, trying to clean up some of the casting imperfections and obvious flow obstructions. Didn't really take any before pics, but I'll post up some "after pics" when I'm done.

I haven't decided if I'm going to try to paint it the car body color like my LS1 intake or maybe do something else. I'm out of the paint, so I'd have to have some mixed up.

Car looks nice, its nice seeing a project finished out especially after such a long time! Do you have/work in a shop? I noticed the camaro in a couple of the post.

Tennyson said:

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Car looks nice, its nice seeing a project finished out especially after such a long time! Do you have/work in a shop? I noticed the camaro in a couple of the post.

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Thanks! It's still not finished, but a lot closer than ever!

No, I have a cluttered garage that has more junk than work space in it. The gray Camaro further up on this page was at the Roger Lewis' shop down the road from me, when we were charging the Vintage Air AC system. Pretty clean car.

I may have already said this in this thread- but when I did my 69 C10 I did my own vintage air install and bought the kit from Roger Lewis. That guy is A-1 in my book. SUPER helpful on the phone, I actually learned a lot from my visits with him.

Centerpole90 said:

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I may have already said this in this thread- but when I did my 69 C10 I did my own vintage air install and bought the kit from Roger Lewis. That guy is A-1 in my book. SUPER helpful on the phone, I actually learned a lot from my visits with him.

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Oh wow, no I didn't know that. Yeah he is a great guy, super knowledgeable about this stuff.

Sadly, his shop is for sale now. I think he's had some health issues that have compounded in the last several months.
My neighbor was helping him with some of the installs that he had, but I'm not sure if Roger is even working any more.

I need to stop by next time his truck is there and chat him up.

lb3 said:

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I've got a box of old plates at home but I think they range from 68-73 ish. If I have a 64, it's yours.

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Any chance you have a set of 68s you'd part ways with?

lb3 said:

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Bump.

Wrangler hasn't posted since April. Anyone know what's happening with him or the current status of his car?

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He got married and moved to Kansas. He's been a bit busy lately but still has the car, I saw it at the wedding reception. It's still looking good.