Here's what a clutch kit rated for 550HP/TQ looks like.



Looking to get this installed soon.

I was cleaning the bellhousing threads out with a tap the other day and discovered one had a helicoil in it. It didn't fare well after running a tap through it.

So I ordered a locking thread insert, thinking it will be a little more durable and strong. Looks like this:




So that's where I am...kinda waiting for the insert to show before I jump in on the clutch....regardless, my goal is to get the drivetrain in the car this month!

Updates:

Got some things done over the weekend like missing bolts here and there, and started the clutch install.

Also decided to do the Jeep Grand Cherokee Steering box swap that everyone raves about. It was easy to get to the steering with no motor in. Old grimy box complete with worn out rag joint:


Here's the new box with joint coupler, all shiny and new. Still need to put the pitman arm back on.


Fancy Stage 2 clutch, complete with proprietary, space-age materials, or something.


Got everything torqued down and clutch alignment tool moving freely in and out:

New slave cylinder, still need to bleed everything though. Notice the overlay-weld and machine job on the input shaft.....very nice.

Just got the threaded insert installed this evening....looks good but thread sealer still needs to set up, I'm assuming.


Bell Housing on and torqued down! Just need to mate the trans up after the thread locker sets up, then I think it will be ready to go in the car!

Nice!

noice

I would get a speedbleeder from Tick Performance before you install it in the car unless you have really good access. My '00 SS is a PITA to bleed. Route it up next to your clutch fluid reservoir and it makes bleeding a breeze.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-remote-clutch-speedbleeder-line-for-c5-corvette-z06-04-06-gto-ls1-camaro-firebird/

Yeah I keep seeing recommendations for that....maybe I will take a look at my clearance once I get the motor/trans assembly in the car.

I also have read a lot of good things about Tick's clutch master cylinder....but it is a bit pricey. I think I will try to work with what I have for now...I've been working on the factory F-body clutch master, trying to flush and clean it, even did the "drill mod." We will see.

Got the transmission all torqued down, save the rear mount. Need some new bolts for that. I started tackling the wire harness, which has already been reworked by Nelson Performance out of San Antonio. They labeled all the altered wires, like 12v battery, fuel pump, fans, reverse lock-out, etc. However, all of my factory connections that were disconnected now need homes. All the injectors and coil banks (easy), trans sensors, temperature, cam position, crank position, knock, IAT, MAP, etc, etc....so I went ahead and labeled everything so it will be easy to hook up once motor is in.


I'm also re-taping a lot of the wires and making repairs where needed. Here is the Coil bank harness after I re-taped. I'm using vinyl electrical wrap, which is basically electrical tape without the adhesive, which is known to melt and cause a mess.

My package delivery fairy has also informed me that I have a car part waiting at home, which I'm pretty excited about. So to be continued!!

Hell yeah!

Notice anything different??

Bro

Have you checked the clearance on the oil filter. Looks like that is going to be tight

Looks outstanding. Jealous

Who did the headers

quote:

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Yeah I keep seeing recommendations for that....maybe I will take a look at my clearance once I get the motor/trans assembly in the car.

I also have read a lot of good things about Tick's clutch master cylinder....but it is a bit pricey. I think I will try to work with what I have for now...I've been working on the factory F-body clutch master, trying to flush and clean it, even did the "drill mod." We will see.

---

I just installed a Tick clutch master cylinder a couple of weekends ago on my SS. It's a very nice piece but expensive as you mentioned. The worst part was the "quick" disconnect on the slave cylinder. A previous mechanic screwed up the little plastic piece on the old one so badly that I took the new one off of the hose on the Tick one and used it instead. The one I replaced was a no-name replacement part and I could only drive around 200 miles before I had to flush the fluid or my pedal would stick to the floor. GM should be pimp slapped for many things, included these garbage clutch master cylinders that came on these cars.

My clutch is much stiffer now, which I prefer, and it it engages a lot further from the floor than the stock one. No complaints so far...

Any updates? We have had a bunch of nice weather. This thing should be finished

Agreed, please post photos asap showing substantial progress over which we may all ooh and ahh as appropriate.

OK....Headers are the "Speed Engineering," better known as eBay headers....they are the off road headers for 98-02 F-body, which are known to fit early A-bodies very well.....we will see.
They are LS specific, so oil filter clearance shouldn't be an issue.

My clutch master cylinder bracket came in....it fits but the alignment with the opening in the firewall was off. I had to cut the bracket horizontally and refit. I also changed the angle to better fit the clutch pedal:

As seen from the interior, under dash.....the rod will be mounted a little higher than what is shown here....otherwise I think alignment is ok:

After welding:


In other news....motor is a little closer to home:


Still have some fitment issues with motor mounts....see wooden blocks:

My problem now is the Dirty Dingo sliders still don't mate up with the frame stands. I've looked around for solutions and found this:

BRP is the company, but they are $300 dollars, I only need the triangular frame stand piece, but they won't answer their phone, email or even have an answering machine. Screw that.

I'll going to fab my own:



...to be continued.

Fabbing your own.

Looking good!

Did a test fit of headers last night....everything looks great!
Granted, the motor isn't in the final position, so I will have to wait until the motor stands are ready, but so far so good.






Driver side looks ok, steering shaft isn't in, but it doesn't look like there will be interference:



Pretty awesome, I must say:

I'm detecting win.

What is the plan for wheels?

last picture makes things from 6 to 9 (not quite midnight yet).

~egon

haha I grew up north of San Antonio and in high school I put an LS1 in my single cab short bed chevy half ton.

I was the first truck "farmtruck" tuned when he got LS1 edit. I think his name was Allen? Good to see Nelson performance is still in business.

Wow, that is looking great! I went back through the thread again, just looking at the pictures... I had forgotten how far gone the "before" pictures were. This is going to be a phenomenal car!

And those look like the exact same upper control arms as in my S10. I know GM used some parts for a long time, but damn! Another famous long-runner was the Saginaw steering stuff; I did in fact replace my intermediate shaft (complete with sloppy rag joint) with a U-jointed one out of a '96 Cherokee.

Best photoshop I've seen in a while

I have a Nelson tune on my truck, but plan to have it retuned by someone else when I get my 6.0/4L80e swap done.

You'll have to hit me up when you're done, I'd love to check it out in person. I remember seeing it on the trailer when I was mowing the grass a while back haha

Yeah it is starting to look more like a real car....hopefully the momentum continues.

Here is an update:

I ended up getting a guy at work to help me with my fabbed motor mounts. After some trial and error, I got him to weld them up. Nothing beats a pro welder! Here is the pre-paint pic:


So at this point, motor is bolted in, headers are torqued down. I also installed the intake manifold.


After that I installed the power steering pump and hooked up the high pressure line to the new box. I need to pick up a low pressure side line before I put the reservoir on:


Then I got the throttle cable out and mocked up....need the pedal to install the whole assembly permanently.


Today I ordered new O-rings for the injectors, which are soaking in Seafoam for good measure.
I also ordered a Lokar dipstick, since I didn't have one.

Oh, and last night I mocked up a little diagram of my fuel system!
Looks like this:
I may swap the 3/8" 90 degree fitting on the hardline with the straight going into the tank, but other than that, this should be the final version.

Updates! Some good, some bad.

I'll start with the good. My American Autowire whole car kit came in. It is legit. Very thorough and complete. Includes all light terminations with bulb sockets, new ignition switch and key, all wiring labeled, as well as detail schematics and instructions.

Installation requires opening up the stock firewall hole for the main fuse panel, which went pretty smooth, I felt:


Interior view:

Started plumbing fuel system also, decided to run a heater hose over the nylon line for abrasion and heat protection...isn't pretty but cheap and functional. Here is regulator mounted and supply line to motor on passenger side:

This is where the bad news comes in. The b-body (impala, etc) poly tank doesn't come close to fitting between rear frame rails. I basically would have to remove the entire bottom flange of the "c-channel" on both sides. I feel pretty sure that would severely compromise integrity of frame.

So, the way I see it, either I'm out my costs for the tank and racetronix 255 LPH fuel pump, which is about $200-250ish, or I can attempt to modify the poly tank. I've read on a few forums where people have used a heat gun to reshape poly tanks. I may give this a go; just need to push the sides in a bit to make it clear the frame rails. Thoughts??
Any one have an old poly tank they want to donate for R&D?

Just to end on a good note, here is motor as is. MSD 8.8s came in, along with my O2 sensors and a power steering pulley that ended up dying a horrible death. More on that later.....

Bump for fuel tank ideas from auto board geniuses....