Looks like a nice set up! Where in Houston are you located?

My Kore3 parts should come today, so I'll have some updates on that set up by the end of the weekend....

Here is a quick update on what I've been doing....not as much as I would like, but still things to do.

My special paint arrived that should provide some additional heat barrier for the cab, since I determined the lizard skin applied was the sound control type. (Although considering my dead beat car guy did it, it could be cheap-o bed liner for all I know. Seems to cut down on panel vibrations though.

Anyway, here is what I got. It's a elastomeric based coating with the micro ceramic balloons mixed in. It is supposed to reduce sound and heat transmission:

I've put two coats on the firewall, floor pan(interior) and the outer door skin interiors. I still have half a gallon, so I may go for a 3rd coat.

Here is some pics of the application:
Before:



During:


After:



After:

Speaking of painting, check out the final coat on the rear end!




Looks pretty sharp I think.
Hopefully the rear end shop won't mess it up too bad rebuilding it. I plan on taking it by the shop tomorrow and get that ball rolling.

The last thing I did this week was get the steering shaft in place. My lower bearing is still on backorder, so I can't put the column on yet, but I wanted to see my clearance with the lower shaft. I had to cut about a 1/4" off a control arm mounting bolt, but after that, it went right into place.

Of course I had to see what the wheel looks like against the dash and gauges:


Once the rear end comes back from the shop, I can mount it, finish out the brake lines, bleed and test everything. Then a driveshaft. Then???

Looking good. My only comment is to keep your patience and don't rush to get the first drive, leading to shortcuts. Better to do it right the first time. Trust me, it's better that way (tempting as it is).

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I hope you're using Pyle Brothers for the differential.

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Yeah I'm from the Dirty Bay, so I like to stay true to my roots!
Silvy know what I'm talbout.

Holla

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Old:

All new internals:

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I hope you have better luck than I did with that switch. I went through 3 of them on my 63 truck before I had to just change to an separate external turn signal setup.

Love the progress, keep up the good work.

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Old:

All new internals:

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I hope you have better luck than I did with that switch. I went through 3 of them on my 63 truck before I had to just change to an separate external turn signal setup.

Love the progress, keep up the good work.

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Yeah I will say they look somewhat flimsy....I inadvertently ordered an extra, so I will have one in case I run into trouble with it. That "lower bearing adapter " is supposed to ship 30-APRIL, so I can wrap that column up when it comes in.

I dropped off the rear end at Pyle Bros Friday! On the agenda is:

• New KA Axles, supposed to be quite a bit stronger than stock
  
• 3.73 gears
  
• Eaton style posi-unit
  
• All new Timken bearings and seals.
  

They are supposed to put my caliper mounting brackets on before they install axles so I don't have to mess with that.
It will be ready to bolt in as little as one week! Pretty excited....

Why not 4.56?

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Why not 4.56?

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He's not building a dump truck.

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And yet with my existing trunk space, I may retain dump truck-sized hauling capacity!

Well I must say, I had a great experience with Pyle Brothers. They were very helpful and even talked through some issues I had with the brake mounting bracket and interference with the lower shock mount. Not to mention the turned everything around in a week. Don't think twice about using them. Period.

Results:




My plan was to swap sides that the caliper mounting brackets go on, which would allow the parking brake actuation levers to be pulled from back to front, which jives with how the stock Chevelle cables would pull. However, the levers wouldn't clear the lower shock mount bracket, so they had to go on the F-body way, which sets up for pulling from front to back.
See view from front looking back:




I also test fit the caliper and rotor, mainly to make sure all the spacing was ok. Seems like it will be fine:


The F-body rotors got WAY bigger when I put them on the axle, by the way! I have a feeling my roller wheels wont fit with the calipers and maybe even the rotors on. TBD.


Other items...I decided to really go all out on the sound and heat proofing, albeit without breaking the bank. I read pages and pages of forum threads where people use the cheap "Peel & Seal" with aluminum backing as a heat and sound insulator with typically excellent results. In fact most of the reviews for the roofing patch product on Lowe's website is from people using it on vehicles. So off I went:



That last picture was all of the material, so 1 roll is about 7 or so sq. ft. (6"x15ft). Not bad for $16.
The panels sounded VERY muffled when I hit on them after the application. Tapping around on other areas not covered with the peel and seal makes the difference very noticeable. I will continue with as much of the cabin floor/firewall and probably spot treat any panels that seem overly resonant.

Oh, last thing, my lower bearing adapter for the steering column shipped yesterday, so I'll get that going next week!

You make me feel embarrassed for my project

Used peel and seal in DA PUBLICAN

update pls

Quick update, I've been out of town for a while, so no new work, but I did finish the steering wheel install before I left.

Still need some fasteners for the firewall plate:

Spacing turned out alright between all the column pieces:

Completed and installed:


I couldn't resist starting the engine and turning lock to lock to see what it felt like.....
It felt GREAT! Smooth and tight.....like a brand new car!

I hope to get the rear end back under the car this weekend, and hammer out a few other details on my driveline angles so I can get my driveshaft ordered. Wish my wheel situation would solve itself.

How much was the sound/noise paint?

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How much was the sound/noise paint?

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$43 bucks for 1 gallon.....and then another $25 for shipping (annoying).

Got the rear end installed without issue over last weekend. It took more time to hook up the brake lines and calipers. I ended up just hand-bending the rear hardlines.
Before:


I also figured out a way to mount the hose brackets to the existing backing plate bolts:



After...not beautiful, but it works:


The rear end hose to t-block from Kore 3 is a nice piece. I hit the coil springs with some rattle can epoxy.

Back under the car. Oh, and the roller wheels definitely don't clear the F-body caliper set up. I detect new wheels in my future.


Basically on and off since last Sunday, I've been working on the brakes....mostly trying to bleed them. It's been slow and painful.
First I bench bled the master cylinder.

Then I mounted master cylinder and tightened all the lines. I used my little Mity-vac and pulled air out through the bleeder screws. Slow and steady.


Last night I realized I had two leaks, one at the proportioning valve, the other at a hard line union running to passenger front caliper. I got those tightened up, so maybe it will go smoother now.
I plan on hitting it again tomorrow for the last time. If anyone wants to come contribute to this build, now is the prime opportunity. I hate bleeding brakes.....to be continued...

The caliper hoses aren't actually using an existing mount....its hard to see in the pics. Just a bolt that seemed like it would work.
I think I saw someone actually use the lower shock mounts as the mounting point for the ebrake cable.....drill a hole in it. We will see.

Just finished another bleed attempt tonight. I think I discovered the master cylinder had some air in it. I unbolted it and tilted it flat while stroking the cylinder. After that my pressure seemed to go up quite a bit. I'll checked again tomorrow.

I think I'm done with bleeding the brakes for now....it will be hard to tell if they are working at full capacity until the car is more mobile. I didn't do anything else after I burped the master cylinder.

Making some visually impressive progress this week, as well as some wiring work....lights, etc.

First I put the passenger fender liner on over the weekend...I was happy to see that everything cleared my ECU mounting and my relays on the firewall.
Next I installed the driver fender and liner so I can start on the headlight wire routing. Also installed my light cans and got everything lined up:


Tonight I installed all 4 headlights and light bezels:

Another view:


Lastly I remembered I can put my intake pipe and filter assembly now that the fender liner is in place. Looks like this:



I can't really decide if I like it or not....it's almost like the intake pipe is too straight...doesn't jive with lines of everything else. I like the idea of getting the filter as far away from the heat of the motor and radiator, which this seems to accomplish. The top of the filter is almost touching the inner fender:



Thoughts on the pipe?
This thing is really starting to look like a Chevelle....pretty exciting.

Filter directly on TB wouldn't be a bad setup, but unfortunately it's not really an option due to the MAF sensor. Due to ID differences, I had to run the silicone adapters. This pic was from before I got the MAF.

I guess one option would be to shorten the pipe down to a minimum needed to clear everything.

Unless you can somehow build an adapter or something that would force some air in I think running it off to the side is about the best you're going to be able to do.

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Can you build an adapter? A big block of aluminum and a lathe could be a lot of fun.

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While fun, I think I want to be done with unexpected snags and expenses on this project!
I'd rather machine a cool shifter knob with an SS logo in it or something.

I could see a dual pipe set-up feeding air from both sides. Other than that, unless you get it from a hood scoop, getting 'cold' air, that will be your only option, I see.

~egon

Spectre makes one specific for the Chevelle, but they are pricey and seem a little over the top to me....just the single side Spectre was like $250, I recall.
I may take lb3's advice and see how I feel about it a month from now.....