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Casa Gringo - Central Texas Barndominium Build

173,840 Views | 376 Replies | Last: 2 yr ago by Txgunrnnr
locogringo
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So we got the majority of the windows hung this weekend. Also finished up a lot of the little things that need to be done before sheeting. The little things are driving me crazy, the progress is not very visual so it seems like you get nothing done at the end of the day.

With the windows in I can go back to focusing on the awnings. Hopefully a weekend or 2 on the front awning and one or 2 on the rear awning.

I cannot wait to get the walls and roof on this thing, it's killing me.






One other complaint, and I don't think it is Mueller's fault directly, I think all the metal building material suppliers are the same. None of the "shapes" are very precise. "angle iron" is not 90 degrees. the legs on "C" purlin don't make the full 90 degree bend. So far the sloppy bends haven't affected anything, but this week end the did. I had to weld a piece of angle around 3/4 of the building. Some short sheets will eventually attach to this angle. Because the angle isn't bent to 90 degrees, the leg is sticking out away from the building. Becasue sheets will have to attach to it, this will need to be fixed. So at some point I need to go around and try to bend the leg back to straight up and down.

Pic for clarification.

Corps_Ag12
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locogringo said:

Too late now, I only lack a handful of pieces. I like the idea. However, did you have any gaps between the base angle and columns? I have roughly 1/4 inch everywhere the base angle meets a column. Most of the pieces were cut to length already and I followed suite with the ones I had to cut. If I figure a way to plug these gaps, I think the caulking would be well worth it.

And I guess the foam closures that go between the sheeting and base angle keeps the ants from just climbing over the base angle.

We caulked around the base plates too. I think i just caulked that gap 2 or 3 times, letting it set between each one.

Ill try and get some pictures this weekend when i am home to post for you, or i can email them. Just let me know.
andy griffith
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Might be too late but recommend a full size purlin installed at the bottom of the wall to "catch" the sheet. On the inside of the wall, this gives you a flush nailer at ground level and then at your other purlins. This makes it easy for framing any walls on the interior but gives you an easier opportunity to skin the interior of the shop area if you ever desired in the future.

I live in a barndo and wish I'd done that in mine.
jt2hunt
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That leg of the c purlin looks bent
locogringo
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I missed my update from last weekend. Got the front awnings to 90%. I'm tempted to say there is only about 1/2 day left on them, but one of the pieces still to go is the hip in the roof. That may take awhile to figure out trial-and-error route.

The full perimeter of the front awnings is on. Makes it feel much different in person because you can really feel the true size of the end product.









The only things left on the front is the hip and then fill in the rafters of the "carport" area. Rafters should be quick work.


The best development from last weekend was the welding situation. I don't have a ton of experience with stick, all I do is MIG and TIG. So I have been fighting my stick welder the entire time. Part of it is me, part of it is the welder and/or generator. But I borrowed a 110V MIG to try Flux-Core. I was skeptical of the flux core, I've done a lot of MIG but none with flux core. This stuff is AWESOME!!!

I started with a .030 1LB test roll. I was impressed enough with it to go ahead with a 10LB roll of .035. My .035 weld look almost as good as solid core .035 welds. Super impressed with the flux-core ability to shield even in the 20ish mph windy we had. Before this weekend I thought flux-core was just for the tiny hobbiest who didn't want to drop the coin on a good MIG machine. Now I fully understand that there is a time and place for flux-core.
locogringo
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In reply to some of the post above:

Corps_Ag12: I think I can picture what your talking about. If you happen to grab a pic, that'd be cool, if not, don't go out of your way for me.

andy: Ya, we're a little too late now. Good idea though. Will keep it in my mind for the next one.....

jt: the bent leg is the base angle I welded under the Z-purlin. The purlins have all been acceptable, not true to their shape, but acceptable.
Aggieangler93
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Any idea what you have in the place per square foot? We are thinking about a similar project on the Texas coast.
Class of '93 - proud Dad of a '22 grad and a '26 student!
SpillersEG
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Seeing if you had any questions about spray foam, and if you already have someone doing it? Would love to help.
LSB_2002
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Love following this thread!
locogringo
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Everything from the last update has been tying up little ends that need to be done before sheeting. Still a lot of little items to do but sheets should start going on this weekend.

One awesome development from last weekend was fixing that ridiculous bent leg issue from the post above. I was opening one of those envelopes that is perforated on 3 sides and had an idea. Got to the building, grabbed the plasma cutter, worked my way around the building in about 30 minutes cutting the roll of the angle iron but leaving a one inch section every few feet. I effectively perforated the angle iron along its bend. After that, another 30 minutes with a wood block, 2 clamps, and a pipe wrench, all the legs are now perfectly 90. Would have been a real pain without the plasma, it made quick work of it.

Only picture I have to share is a new (to me) little toy I bought this weekend



JLG 2030ES

Also pictured - Miller "Bluestar 2E". The first project for the new shop. 1970's era stick welder / generator.


For the guys above:

93: metal building and concrete - just under $16/sq.ft.
awnings - $2.50-$3 /sq.ft.

Spillers: Lots of questions about spray foam! Open vs. Closed - which should I do on walls? on ceiling? budget number /sq.ft. for open? closed?

LSB: Thanks. Glad people are enjoying it.
FBG_Ag78
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Great project Gringo! Thanks for sharing all of the updates. Wifey and I have been in our barndo for almost 7 years now and love it.

Regarding insulation, we ended up going with open cell (8" in the ceiling and 6" in the walls). I really wanted closed cell despite the increased marginal cost per R factor. The contractor talked me out of it because he said if a roof leak ever developes you'll never be able to locate it. It's the most comfortable home we've ever lived in no matter the outside temp or wind speed.

Keep up the good work!
SpillersEG
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I would have to agree with what he said about finding the leak when using closed cell. In metal shops/buildings, closed cell is used the majority of the time for the fact of R-value and is appealing to the eye. As far as a barndo is concerned, I would recommend open cell, the amount is really up to you. Our standard package is 3.5" in the walls and 5" in the roofline, some people tend to put a little more. If you can, try to talk to an energy rater to find out what R-values need to be on the walls and roofline and go from there. Price per sqft is hard because is the house 3000sqft with a flat roof or a 12/12 roof? The higher the pitch, the more foam you use. "Usually" anywhere from $1.90-$2.20 a sqft depending on the pitch. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions.
locogringo
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Feel free to e-mail me at texas(username) @ gmail if you want to quote it. I have an insulation plan drawing I can send you to help with quantities.
SpillersEG
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Just making sure you received my email, hopefully I got the address right
locogringo
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Spillers - I just sent the reply.

During the week a buddy and I made it out after work and got the 4 columns for the big awning up.





Then this weekend Mrs. Gringo and I set the rafter beams and one line of roof purlin.







Yes, the columns still need to be cut off flush with the top of the rafters, ran out of daylight.

We had some unfavorable weather Saturday, so the big awning was the only major progress. We did manage to finish the hip roof framing and flash 2 windows, began trimming those 2 windows but that is when the rain started.



EDIT: picture of the hip framing



A little note on the progress of this thing. It is taking WAY longer than it should as far as a calendar is concerned. We put all the red iron up in 3 days with myself and 3 other guys. Since then it has been only Mrs. Gringo and myself (except 2 separate evenings when I had a friend come help). We are only working on it during the weekends and after 5pm when possible. So actual number of working days is somewhere around 20 days. On top of that, EVERY day we have to pull out some combination of the generator, welder, air compressor, plasma cutter, ladders, hand tools, etc. When you consider the time it takes to "set up" and "clean up" each day plus the rain days and other obligation days we probably have 10-13 days of work in it after the red iron went up.

I say this encase someone is thinking about doing something similar and wants to do some work themselves. Not as discouragement, but as encouragement. If you can work on it for longer than 2 days at a time you will save so much time on the "set up" and "clean up" each work session. Having power on site would speed up some more over generators.

The timeline is starting to annoy me, I'm ready to start the interior. But I have been dealing with it because I know our actual work days is not unreasonable, especially since this is our first time doing a metal building. The other factor (and probably the main factor) that keeps me upbeat on the progress/work is that I have thoroughly enjoyed doing this with Mrs. Gringo as my only help. Talk about good bonding time - no TV, computers, or phones in the way, just beautiful Texas and a common goal to work towards. Plus there isn't much better than watching your wife operate a 20,000 LB skytrack, setting a couple thousand pound wide flange beam inches away from you and not having any concern because she has learned all the hand signals good enough that I don't even need to look at her, just hold one hand in the air giving signals while eyes and other hand guide the beam where you need it.
Aggie_3
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danieljustin06
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Locogringo, any updates?
locogringo
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danieljustin06 said:

Locogringo, any updates?
He dead yet?

















I'll get something together.....
locogringo
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So the reason for no updates is I told myself I wasn't going to update again until sheets are on.......they're still not on.....

BUT, there has been progress and there is a reasonable explanation for the sheeting delay.

We had back-to-back weekends out of town, so 2 weeks with no progress. The good thing from those 2 weekends is it made us realize we need to hire out the sheeting just to get it done. The guy going to sheet it should start after Memorial Day.

The rest of the framing is finished up, ready for sheets.

Large awning roof purlins


Carport roof purlin


Also to be ready for sheets, the remaining windows needed to be installed.

Quad before mulling


Mull strip


Mulled and ready to go in


Quad installed


Shop windows mulled together


shop windows installed


Front door also got installed (much heavier than I remember it being, was a PAIN)


Septic was also started and completed


Tank installed


Leech Field


The septic guy also dug 600' of trench for electrical and water while he was on site. He installed PVC water line from the meter to the house and installed a few hose bibs. So now we have running water on the slab, which is very nice. I installed electrical conduit in the same trench while it was open and will pull wire next week.

Wire and conduit


danieljustin06
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Don't blame y'all for wanting to hire out the sheeting. It's a lot for two people to handle especially with getting them into place.
AgySkeet06
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Just curious after seeing what your septic tank pit looked like dug out then seeing your leech field. I understand the leech field perforated tubing/pipe is large and can likely handle the amount of effluent you will produce but is there anywhere for the liquid to actually go?? It looks a lot like rock carved channels where the field was placed. is there actually somewhere for the effluent to travel to below or is that solidish rock as well?

It just got me to thinking looking at the photos if it might have been better to dig out the leach field completely and back fill with a "real" soil that would allow more uptake of the treated effluent
SPF250
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Perc rate?
locogringo
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You're right that the septic tank was dug out of solid rock. Jackhamered to be accurate.

The leech field however is located a good distance away from the tank location. We spent an entire afternoon digging test holes looking for the appropriate soil for a traditional system (we did not want an aerobic system if it could be avoided). Luckily the soil profile varies largely within our property, so we were able to find a spot. There is a pump to get it to the field from the tank, but other than that it is a straight up traditional system.

I'll look at the design to see what perc info is on there.
PFG
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Quote:

we did not want an aerobic system if it could be avoided

Reasons? Just interested
AgySkeet06
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PFG said:

Quote:

we did not want an aerobic system if it could be avoided

Reasons? Just interested
My guess because it's less maintenance and you don't have to worry about the hassle of sprinklers and wet spots on the surface
aggieland09
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locogringo
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AgySkeet06 said:

PFG said:

Quote:

we did not want an aerobic system if it could be avoided

Reasons? Just interested
My guess because it's less maintenance and you don't have to worry about the hassle of sprinklers and wet spots on the surface
Skeet is right on. While my system does have a pump, its a fairly hassle free pump. Aerobics seem to have issue with the aerators, and the sprinklers. Plus we don't care to have the surface applied areas in the yard.
H Fawcett
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Thanks for sharing. We are in the design phases of our build. 3000 sq ft in central tx also
locogringo
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Never thought I'd see the day....





locogringo
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Moving right along







Forgot to mention yesterday that Mrs. Gringo and I were able to pull the 175' of underground electrical service wire from the meter to the breaker box location on the slab. Wired up the breaker box temporarily with one outlet for the sheeting guys. Will add more temporary outlets as needed until the box is set in its final place.
locogringo
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Sheeting was finished up on Thursday.

Front is missing its 2 rake trim and corner trim pieces, hints the light visible from the inside. But other than that, all done.







Now need to get floor stain and spray foam lined up so I can start framing.
danieljustin06
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Goose
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Looks great!
locogringo
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Started framing up a temporary room that we plan to move into within a month or 2 so we can list our current house for sale.

Space before


all the material to frame up the walls and ceiling. Kinda sad our new, temporary, house fits in such a small space.



First walls going together



All the walls up. 10'x16' ! I started calling it our Studio Apartment


But after this picture, with it's odd perspective, The Doghouse is it's new name (thanks pops). Looks short but it does have 9' ceilings, so it's a pretty fancy Doghouse.

This week after work/this weekend the goal is to square the walls up, add rafters, decking, drywall, and a door.

Inside will be a bed, refrigerator, small counter space for food prep, improvised closet, window A/C unit, and as much storage as possible.

We will also be framing in the shop bathroom so we have running water, a shower, and a throne.

One the horizon:
  • frame up bathroom
  • stone wainscot around building
  • finish up trim on front of building
danieljustin06
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AG
Will the doghouse remain as a room in the living space, or is it a temp room in the shop part? Being in such a confined space will definitely speed up finishing everything else!
 
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