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Casa Gringo - Central Texas Barndominium Build
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Last: 2 yr ago by Txgunrnnr
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Old gag from The Simpsons:locogringo said:
I don't know what the heck yall are talking about but it gave me some good luck.
Was not able to work as much as I would have liked, but we did get the main goal of the weekend accomplished. The bath tub is in place and plumbed in to the waste drain.
The tub has a few shapes and angles that make it slightly more difficult to drain than most. The first being that the wast drain is located further away from the wall than normal. This located it in a position outside of the rough-in knock out in the slab.
Here is the drain hanging under the tub. Tub is blocked up 2 2x4's high, so that meant the slab would have to be clearanced almost its entire thickness.
Area to be removed marked out
First cut as deep as i could with a skill saw
From there, it was time for a demo tool for the rotory hammer
Set on Hammer only (obviously), made quick work of the concrete.
Tub in place and leveled. Dry fit of p-trap
After lots of measurements and more dry runs, glued and pack in some crusher fines for stability
Waste and overflow glued in. Overflow was a pain because of one of the weird angles mentioned earlier. But its all done now
Dirty, but its done
Also wanted to get the toilet flange sorted this weekend. Started with a 4" PVC stubbed above finished floor
Busted the cap off, cut pipe about 1/4" below grade, and then had to use the grinder to smooth the area out a bit
Tool for cutting the pipe down from the inside
Flange in place and ready for attachment to the floor.
I'm going to hold off of attaching it permanently until we have the toilet on site to test fit and make sure no more grinding has to be done.
Toilet and sink are picked out for that bathroom, just need to acquire them this week. For the time being we are going to mount the sink in a temporary base (free, damaged from lowes) and temporary counter top (something cheap/free). I'm hoping between this week and this weekend the bathroom will be "livable" and we can list our current house.
The tub has a few shapes and angles that make it slightly more difficult to drain than most. The first being that the wast drain is located further away from the wall than normal. This located it in a position outside of the rough-in knock out in the slab.
Here is the drain hanging under the tub. Tub is blocked up 2 2x4's high, so that meant the slab would have to be clearanced almost its entire thickness.
Area to be removed marked out
First cut as deep as i could with a skill saw
From there, it was time for a demo tool for the rotory hammer
Set on Hammer only (obviously), made quick work of the concrete.
Tub in place and leveled. Dry fit of p-trap
After lots of measurements and more dry runs, glued and pack in some crusher fines for stability
Waste and overflow glued in. Overflow was a pain because of one of the weird angles mentioned earlier. But its all done now
Dirty, but its done
Also wanted to get the toilet flange sorted this weekend. Started with a 4" PVC stubbed above finished floor
Busted the cap off, cut pipe about 1/4" below grade, and then had to use the grinder to smooth the area out a bit
Tool for cutting the pipe down from the inside
Flange in place and ready for attachment to the floor.
I'm going to hold off of attaching it permanently until we have the toilet on site to test fit and make sure no more grinding has to be done.
Toilet and sink are picked out for that bathroom, just need to acquire them this week. For the time being we are going to mount the sink in a temporary base (free, damaged from lowes) and temporary counter top (something cheap/free). I'm hoping between this week and this weekend the bathroom will be "livable" and we can list our current house.
OK, so I've had a side project going that has prevented me from doing much work worth while of posting. That side project is now complete and I should be full steam ahead now.
This week after work I got the majority of the 2nd floor deck put down. I lack 6-7 sheets.
View from other direction
This weekend I will finish up the deck, get the 2nd bathroom a little further, and hopefully start on the 2nd floor walls.
Current house is going on the market week of the 26th. So this should be good motivation to get some work done and make more interesting posts!
This week after work I got the majority of the 2nd floor deck put down. I lack 6-7 sheets.
View from other direction
This weekend I will finish up the deck, get the 2nd bathroom a little further, and hopefully start on the 2nd floor walls.
Current house is going on the market week of the 26th. So this should be good motivation to get some work done and make more interesting posts!
Are you nailing and gluing or just nailing your subfloor?
Aggietaco said:
Are you nailing and gluing or just nailing your subfloor?
It said he was gluing and screwing in one of the posts.
AgLA06 said:Aggietaco said:
Are you nailing and gluing or just nailing your subfloor?
It said he was gluing and screwing in one of the posts.
...That's what she said?....
Snuck in a few mics. items with the side projects that were taking up all my time.
The walk door on the back side of the barn didn't have any type of landing. I had concrete coming the next morning so I had to build the pad and form it up after work one night with very little day light. Was able to do it and an hour or so, I'm getting better at this stuff.
Before
Pad built and form board up
Rebar mat assembled and placed ~30 minutes before the truck arrived
Finished product
Also made a small pad for my air compressor
There is rebar in there, just didn't grab a pic.
Before Thanksgiving the Mrs. and I got the 2nd floor decking finished up. All the small in-fill pieces took longer than they should have. Then cut all the excess overhangs.
A buddy decided he wanted to come help and kinda learn what goes on inside the walls of a house. Amazing having another guy there helping. Mrs. Gringo does a pretty good job helping, but the little extra muscle really comes in handy when moving material around.
One evening after work we got the first set of 2nd floor walls up.
Some of these walls will get an additional 1 foot or so on top of them to reach full height. These are probably the coolest walls to see go up since the first wall. You really get a sense of how the "great room" will feel. The tallest point on the wall is WAY up there.
I'm hoping to finish up the 2nd floor walls by Monday, then we can check all the framing. Then start plumbing and electrical.
my dad just finished building his barndo.
Edit: In the distance of the second picture you can see the original barndo that was on the property when he bought it. He added this one for more livable space when the entire family comes down and more space for the toys.
There are (4) garage doors that open up the entire living/kitchen area to the wrap around covered porch. Two bedrooms, full bath, half bath, mud room/laundry plus work shop are behind the kitchen.
Silver tank is the rain water retention system.
Edit: In the distance of the second picture you can see the original barndo that was on the property when he bought it. He added this one for more livable space when the entire family comes down and more space for the toys.
There are (4) garage doors that open up the entire living/kitchen area to the wrap around covered porch. Two bedrooms, full bath, half bath, mud room/laundry plus work shop are behind the kitchen.
Silver tank is the rain water retention system.
I'm liking what seeing. It's giving me a lot of ideas for when I can hopefully build one myself. Ragoo, I never thought about the garage doors from living/kitchen. I like the look.
Yeah the garage doors are awesome. They face south and east primarily so all that morning sun comes in. Protected from the northern winds. And on nice days can be opened to facilitate a nice breeze plus completely ext nds the living space to the outside.
Ragoo, that thing is awesome. I definitely like the large open room with the garage doors to open it up even more. The versatility of a metal building is pretty cool.
Previous week update:
Last week a buddy came again and helped build more walls upstairs. We finished all the upstairs walls excluding the back wall closing the shop off from the storage loft, and the short wall on the living room side of the inside loft (still not sure what we are doing with this wall, drywall vs metal railing).
Hard to take pictures up there now. Looking into the living loft from the storage loft
As much of the living loft as I could fit in the picture
No progress was made inside this weekend because I got a phone call I had been waiting a while for. The plan was to basically beat the driveway down with traffic then come in and add gravel on top. The problem was we had some drainage issues that required a good amount of box blade work before doing the driveway.
Our company purchased a new-to-us motor grader and had 24-hours to test it and be able to return no questions asked. What better project to test a new blade on a Saturday.
LITTLE bit better than a box blade
Driveway all shaped up
One of our operators offered to come run the blade for a few hours, so after the driveway was done he smoothed out the "side yard" and got the drainage going the right direction.
A lot of the material that he moved from the side yard went under the large lean to in the rear. No "before" pic but half of this area was about 2-3 feet below where I needed it. He was able to get it all filled in
He had an awesome idea to save me some money on top soil. He walked around and found a place to winrow up some top soil.
I hauled it to the front yard and he spread it out
still have quite a bit of shaping to do in the yard areas and a lot of clean up to do along fences. Probably going to buy a skip loader/ landscape tractor. But having the blade and an experienced operator for half a day made everything much better. I played on the blade a little Sunday, very fun, very hard to master, those guys have a ton of skill.
Previous week update:
Last week a buddy came again and helped build more walls upstairs. We finished all the upstairs walls excluding the back wall closing the shop off from the storage loft, and the short wall on the living room side of the inside loft (still not sure what we are doing with this wall, drywall vs metal railing).
Hard to take pictures up there now. Looking into the living loft from the storage loft
As much of the living loft as I could fit in the picture
No progress was made inside this weekend because I got a phone call I had been waiting a while for. The plan was to basically beat the driveway down with traffic then come in and add gravel on top. The problem was we had some drainage issues that required a good amount of box blade work before doing the driveway.
Our company purchased a new-to-us motor grader and had 24-hours to test it and be able to return no questions asked. What better project to test a new blade on a Saturday.
LITTLE bit better than a box blade
Driveway all shaped up
One of our operators offered to come run the blade for a few hours, so after the driveway was done he smoothed out the "side yard" and got the drainage going the right direction.
A lot of the material that he moved from the side yard went under the large lean to in the rear. No "before" pic but half of this area was about 2-3 feet below where I needed it. He was able to get it all filled in
He had an awesome idea to save me some money on top soil. He walked around and found a place to winrow up some top soil.
I hauled it to the front yard and he spread it out
still have quite a bit of shaping to do in the yard areas and a lot of clean up to do along fences. Probably going to buy a skip loader/ landscape tractor. But having the blade and an experienced operator for half a day made everything much better. I played on the blade a little Sunday, very fun, very hard to master, those guys have a ton of skill.
Yard is looking good. Glad you got your drainage issues figured out.
Sadly no progress on the house this weekend. Company sponsored a duck hunt that ended up being close to back home. So after the hunt I picked up my Scout to bring to the new place.
7 man limit north of Matagorda.
Scout looks sad with the mildew on it.
Had to put smaller tires on one side to fit it on the trailer
Hope to get it back running (wont take too much) early next year.
The Mrs. and I are in "kick ass" mode now on the house. We are now making an effort to avoid all distractions that we can, get SOMETHING done every night after work. I have an electrician friend going to come tell me were to put outlets, switches, and fixtures to stay in code, as well as what to put on each circuit. But I really need him to come soon or I will be behind.
7 man limit north of Matagorda.
Scout looks sad with the mildew on it.
Had to put smaller tires on one side to fit it on the trailer
Hope to get it back running (wont take too much) early next year.
The Mrs. and I are in "kick ass" mode now on the house. We are now making an effort to avoid all distractions that we can, get SOMETHING done every night after work. I have an electrician friend going to come tell me were to put outlets, switches, and fixtures to stay in code, as well as what to put on each circuit. But I really need him to come soon or I will be behind.
We used to do the tire thing as well. We added 2x6's or 8's to the inside of the fenders (still on top of the trailer deck) so you can roll over the fenders. Works great. Just do two boards on each side and cut them at 45 on each end. No more swapping tires.
Casagringo how's the electrical coming along? Been following for some DIY - appreciate the updates...
The electrician that is going to help lay everything out and I haven't been in town in the same days yet. But today is supposed to be the day. I'm waiting on the call now. Hopefully I can start mounting boxes and pulling wire Saturday.
In the mean time I went through all the ground floor framing and straighten all the walls/studs. Got all the headers and cripple studs in, and started doing plumbing vents.
Hall bath
Shop sink
Added in sanitary tee and clean out to kitchen island loop. Will still need to extend the vent loop as high as possible in the kitchen island when it is built, loop is just sitting there now not glued.
I'll keep you posted on the electrical, I'm very excited to get some more lights going and also some plugs for toys in the shop area.
In the mean time I went through all the ground floor framing and straighten all the walls/studs. Got all the headers and cripple studs in, and started doing plumbing vents.
Hall bath
Shop sink
Added in sanitary tee and clean out to kitchen island loop. Will still need to extend the vent loop as high as possible in the kitchen island when it is built, loop is just sitting there now not glued.
I'll keep you posted on the electrical, I'm very excited to get some more lights going and also some plugs for toys in the shop area.
You won't regret installing more outlets than you think you need now.
loco, have you had any progress lately?
Loco:
Yeah give us something to get our minds off that crap on the other threads.
Yeah give us something to get our minds off that crap on the other threads.
Looks grea!! Couple of questions:
What size wedge anchors did you use to bolt the walls to the slab? What spacing?
Also, what kind of nail gun are you using for the framing?
Thanks!
What size wedge anchors did you use to bolt the walls to the slab? What spacing?
Also, what kind of nail gun are you using for the framing?
Thanks!
www.southpawprecision.com
Type 07 FFL / Class 2 SOT
Nightforce Optics Dealer
AGM Night Vision Dealer
Type 07 FFL / Class 2 SOT
Nightforce Optics Dealer
AGM Night Vision Dealer
Looking great! Definitely need one of these things.
How does this compare $ to the traditional fiberglass (roll)?locogringo said:90% sure we are going with Open Cell. It seems the standard is 3.5" on the walls and 5.5" on the roof. I believe this results in the neighborhood of R-13 on walls and R-20 on roof.danieljustin06 said:
So what will be your R value? Going with open, closed cell, or something else?
www.southpawprecision.com
Type 07 FFL / Class 2 SOT
Nightforce Optics Dealer
AGM Night Vision Dealer
Type 07 FFL / Class 2 SOT
Nightforce Optics Dealer
AGM Night Vision Dealer
must be one helluva update coming soon
I'm hoping that's the case too.
You guys must be psychic, I intended to post yesterday, even found the post on page 9 or 10. But work has me SLAMMED right now, never got to it.
Apologies to anyone who is trying to follow along.
So after last update we got the drain vents all finished up:
Laundry area
All vents tie together here (just above laundry area)
And they will leave the building here
We still need to make the penetration in the wall and do the weatherproofing that goes along with that.
One thing I noticed at this point is how awesome the drive-through bay is going to be, already been very useful:
We had a day of odds and ends. Mainly getting stuff moved out of the current house.
Moved the large metal shelves from Gander Mountain to their final location and added the last 2 bays to the unit. These are positioned in the front of the car lift bay. My idea is that ground level shelves can hold everyday items for the shop and the upper shelves can be for any random household storage needs.
The location where the shelves were is now occupied by a smaller shelving unit, a deep freeze, and a shop fridge (pumped about this, never had a shop fridge).
To this point all my down spouts are just hanging free and are propped out from the wall because of the stone work. I had time to get one figured out:
It still needs a small piece to take it to the ground, but the idea is going to work, that's all I was wanting to prove at that point.
The next obstacle I had to figure out was the stair access to the storage loft, accessed from the shop side. Due to dimensional constraints the stairs will not fit in one flight up against the wall. The door on the left would be blocked by the stairs. If I were to push the whole unit to the right to clear the door, then the access door on the loft would be shoulder high ( not good). So this is my solution:
I am not jazzed about having the stairs protrude into the shop any more than necessary so the plan is to build the first flight "collapsible". Think old jr. high gym bleachers where each step can slide in under the step above it. This way when collapsed it will not stick into the shop any more than just the width of the upper flight. This is the plan right now, we will see how doable it is.
Next we took on something slightly unrelated to the house, but still related. We want to cover the ceiling in the great room with rustic tin. We happened to have a jobsite offer up a great candidate for the tin. So a couple buddies and I took the time to dismantle the barn to salvage the tin and as much of the old wood as we could.
There is another trailer load with more roof tin and all the wood, but I don't have any pics.
With the biblical rain we've had, access to the house has been getting worse and worse. As I reported earlier, one of our dirt foreman brought over a motor grader and got the place in shape and ready for some sort of driveway. We ended up buying a used utility tractor mainly for the typical things you need a tractor for on 12 acres but to help justify it more, we decided to build the driveway ourselves and also plan to get the yard in shape for grass.
Kubota M4900 with ~1000 hrs on it. LA1002 loader and one rear remote.
Then a used box blade. 6' Frontier that didn't have a scratch on it.
For the driveway material we ordered about 100 tons of 2" minus dry screened rock. 4 of these piles
Then a handful of hours on the tractor and we have a good start to a driveway. It still needs work, but this will get us and others in and out much easier during wet times.
We definitely have enough material on site now, just need some more seat time to get it in better shape and cleaner looking.
Electrical inside has also been progressing. We have 90% of the electric boxes inplace and about 70% of the wire pulled. Sorry, no pictures. Last night we started hanging can lights. Got 12 out of 19 done.
Masterbed
Master Closet
Hall/ Mud room
We have been trying to figure out what lights/trim to go with on the can lighting. We know we want LED but not sure if we are excited about the "depth" of standard recessed lights. We are currently thinking we like more of the surface mount look. So we had a scrap piece of drywall and bought a tester to try:
I don't know if we are sold yet or not, but I think the end product will be this or something similar.
Next on the list is water supply lines.
Water heater has been ordered.
A/C folks should be here this week.
Finish up electrical (outside still needs a lot)
Run low voltage electrical
Spray foam
Then dry wall.
We are now on a hard timeline. Our current house will close on March 15th. After that we will be confined to the dog house until drywall is up. I'm hoping drywall happens in the month of March.
I will try to get back here at lunch and answer some of the questions posted after the last update.
I'm liking the progress and very interested in how well your stair solution world out.
Your progress is amazing. Very nice work. I have a few electrical pointers, as I am an electrical contractor. You need to fix the zip tied loose wire going into the panel. Terrible code violation. Use a pvc female adapter and convert the pvc to flex. Use connectors, locknuts and a bushing. You don't bond the neutral to the box inside the house. It is bonded at the main disconnect. You can get led "recessed" lights that fit into a deep 4O box. The look better than a flat panel light. More color options on the led. Econolight.com and 1000bulbs.com are my go to for the cheap recessed led. Amazon also has alot of led options with 5 year warranties. Keep your paperwork and receipts for warranty claims. A few will turn out to be bad. Buy you a few boxes of 6 mil latex disposable gloves for electrical trim out. Saves you lots of grief, from fingering the walls and ceilings. Minimal touch-up painting. Enjoying your play by play! Keep up the good work!
Your 3x2 combination fitting on the washing machine vent is upside down.
Cool project!
Cool project!
Road looks great, but in my experience after many a rain storm on a jobsite without good soils the rock just keeps pushing down. You may want to consider chip-sealing your driveway so it is bonded & not loose. When you had it graded did you compact the in-place soils?
Not to get too crazy but have you thought about maybe doing a "poor man elevator" to access the storage area? I've seen beach houses in galveston that have use a welded frame with an electric winch. Might make moving boxes up and down from storage easier in the long term.You could also incorporate a vertical ladder off the wall for other access if needed.Quote:
The next obstacle I had to figure out was the stair access to the storage loft, accessed from the shop side. Due to dimensional constraints the stairs will not fit in one flight up against the wall. The door on the left would be blocked by the stairs. If I were to push the whole unit to the right to clear the door, then the access door on the loft would be shoulder high ( not good). So this is my solution:
I am not jazzed about having the stairs protrude into the shop any more than necessary so the plan is to build the first flight "collapsible". Think old jr. high gym bleachers where each step can slide in under the step above it. This way when collapsed it will not stick into the shop any more than just the width of the upper flight. This is the plan right now, we will see how doable it is.
A manlift was in the picture with the shelves.AgySkeet06 said:Not to get too crazy but have you thought about maybe doing a "poor man elevator" to access the storage area? I've seen beach houses in galveston that have use a welded frame with an electric winch. Might make moving boxes up and down from storage easier in the long term.You could also incorporate a vertical ladder off the wall for other access if needed.Quote:
The next obstacle I had to figure out was the stair access to the storage loft, accessed from the shop side. Due to dimensional constraints the stairs will not fit in one flight up against the wall. The door on the left would be blocked by the stairs. If I were to push the whole unit to the right to clear the door, then the access door on the loft would be shoulder high ( not good). So this is my solution:
I am not jazzed about having the stairs protrude into the shop any more than necessary so the plan is to build the first flight "collapsible". Think old jr. high gym bleachers where each step can slide in under the step above it. This way when collapsed it will not stick into the shop any more than just the width of the upper flight. This is the plan right now, we will see how doable it is.
Along with my post above, this morning I had to wave the white flag. Going to hire an electrician friend to get some of the big stuff done (Oven, Microwave, ceiling fans, fridge, water heater, etc.) Basically anything that is not 12/2 wire. My thought it that for me to go and buy the minimal amount of other wire type I need, I could just pay this guy to do it and know it is done right. Plus, I will help out and hopefully learn a lot of it for next time.Quote:
Casagringo how's the electrical coming along? Been following for some DIY - appreciate the updates...
Quote:
Looks grea!! Couple of questions:
What size wedge anchors did you use to bolt the walls to the slab? What spacing?
Also, what kind of nail gun are you using for the framing?
Thanks!
Anchors were 3/8" x 3-3/4". We spaced roughly every other stud bay and then made sure ends of walls had an anchor. The 3/8" seemed sufficient, walls were very sturdy even with just one tightened down. I wouldn't go any less than 3-3/4" in length.
Nail gun is a Hitachi 3.5" 21 degree gun. NR 90AE(S1). normally $200 at Lowes, I think it was on sale for $170.
Quote:How does this compare $ to the traditional fiberglass (roll)?Quote:locogringo said:Quote:
danieljustin06 said:
So what will be your R value? Going with open, closed cell, or something else?
90% sure we are going with Open Cell. It seems the standard is 3.5" on the walls and 5.5" on the roof. I believe this results in the neighborhood of R-13 on walls and R-20 on roof.
Off the top of my head I think foam is 2 times the cost. But the selling point is how much "tighter" the house is with it.
In the works, the current situation was a temporary solution.Quote:
I have a few electrical pointers, as I am an electrical contractor. You need to fix the zip tied loose wire going into the panel. Terrible code violation. Use a pvc female adapter and convert the pvc to flex. Use connectors, locknuts and a bushing.
This was my understanding too. But in your opinion does it hurt to have it bonded in the house? any risk?Quote:
You don't bond the neutral to the box inside the house. It is bonded at the main disconnect.
Noted and will investigate. I've been referred to Econolight by another electrician. I've heard of 1000 but never had any feedback. I will definitely check it out.Quote:
You can get led "recessed" lights that fit into a deep 4O box. The look better than a flat panel light. More color options on the led. Econolight.com and 1000bulbs.com are my go to for the cheap recessed led. Amazon also has alot of led options with 5 year warranties. Keep your paperwork and receipts for warranty claims. A few will turn out to be bad.
That was on purpose. the box said it could go any direction including how we did it. What I'm not sure on is if it matters that the shut offs and more specifically the "hammer arrestors" being upside down matters?Quote:
Your 3x2 combination fitting on the washing machine vent is upside down.
We rolled it pretty good with just the blade after grading. Then let it get rained on a few times. The specific land is bizarre to me, being from the Houston area. This is pretty solid rock after 1.5"-2". So even in a monsoon, we drove my wifes Malibu down the natural dirt "road" with no issue (lots of tire spinning but it never even tried to get stuck). So my hope is, and was the opinion of some local dirt foreman, is to put the rock down and go with it. May have to touch a few places that sink in, but for the majority this is supposedly good. We will see. A chip seal has been at the back of my mind.Quote:
Road looks great, but in my experience after many a rain storm on a jobsite without good soils the rock just keeps pushing down. You may want to consider chip-sealing your driveway so it is bonded & not loose. When you had it graded did you compact the in-place soils?
As OneNightW mentioned, we have a scissor lift on site that will help with large items. A simple vertical ladder will need to be thought about, could be a viable option with the lift being on site.Quote:
Not to get too crazy but have you thought about maybe doing a "poor man elevator" to access the storage area? I've seen beach houses in galveston that have use a welded frame with an electric winch. Might make moving boxes up and down from storage easier in the long term.You could also incorporate a vertical ladder off the wall for other access if needed.
That was on purpose. the box said it could go any direction including how we did it. What I'm not sure on is if it matters that the shut offs and more specifically the "hammer arrestors" being upside down matters?Quote:
Quote:
Your 3x2 combination fitting on the washing machine vent is upside down.
Your box is good. I was referring to the fitting that ties the 2" piping into the 3" stack. That combination wye should be turned over for a vent.
OK, I got you now. That is actually an issue I had been curious about and forgot about since then. When working on the vents I quickly realized there was a decision to make - 1) have the fittings "drain" towards a drain or 2) have the fittings "flow" the air towards/from the vent exit. I went with option 1 thinking that if there was condensation or any other water in the pipe, I would want it to go down a drain and not get caught in a tight bend of a combo fitting. In most cases it sounds like I should have done option 2 because the vent slopes away anyway. However in this particular case the horizontal piece above the box is flat, so I don't know which way the water would drain.jswags said:That was on purpose. the box said it could go any direction including how we did it. What I'm not sure on is if it matters that the shut offs and more specifically the "hammer arrestors" being upside down matters?Quote:
Quote:
Your 3x2 combination fitting on the washing machine vent is upside down.
Your box is good. I was referring to the fitting that ties the 2" piping into the 3" stack. That combination wye should be turned over for a vent.
BUT, now I know. There have been a few of these learning moments. Luckily they have all been relatively small items that wont really effect the in product (hopefully).
Is it the same thought process in a horizontal bend in a vent? (horizontal to horizontal) You want the flow of the combo fitting flowing towards/from the vent exit?
Amazing structures.
Looking to put something out at our place - less than a house / barndo.
Anyone have experience with container homes / trailers, etc?
Looking to put something out at our place - less than a house / barndo.
Anyone have experience with container homes / trailers, etc?
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