Rural driveway - caliche alternative?

46,750 Views | 48 Replies | Last: 8 yr ago by FCBlitz
Eugene4x
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I had an old Ag tell me some good advice about roads when I was a green eit working for TxDOT. It was basically that your base IS your road. Everything on top is just a wearing course to protect & keep water out of the base. Surface course will slope/shape/heave/ripple/dip as base does.

So in short make sure you have good base material and that it is prepped properly.
Tim Taylor
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Eugene is correct, pfg you pulled email before i got back on here
Cpeschel asququiggly bobcatcontracting com
ccolley68
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Be a man and go with the old school oil field corduroy roads.

Logs laid side by side width wise of the drive. Gives a nice vibration on your way in.

CrossBowAg99
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quote:
Eugene is correct, pfg you pulled email before i got back on here
Cpeschel asququiggly bobcatcontracting com


I was at a bid meeting with a bobcat guy at LBC/Magellan in seabrook today
CrossBowAg99
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quote:
quote:
Eugene is correct, pfg you pulled email before i got back on here
Cpeschel asququiggly bobcatcontracting com


I was at a bid meeting with a bobcat guy at LBC/Magellan in seabrook today


And he was a very nice guy for the record
CrossBowAg99
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BTW I work for IES and we do I&E
Ribeye-Rare
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Not to put anybody on the spot, but regarding the base -- let's say you needed to write some specs on a commercial-duty (heavy vehicles - trucks and ag equipment) driveway base for a contractor to bid on.

Are there any 'standards' you can suggest for:

(i) material;

(ii) thickness;

and,

(iii) prep / stabilization before the base is put down?


I realize that's the job of a CE, but it would be nice for an ignorant soul (like myself) to at least sound halfway intelligent when discussing this stuff with a contractor.

As opposed to say -- "I need me a good driveway. What's it gonna cost?"

Thanks.
fightingfarmer09
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I'm always amazed how much engineering some on this board put into something like a gravel drive.

Get the tractor out and get to work.
ConstructionAg01
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Sure, here are some basics:


(i ) Material - The most common base material is crushed limestone. Referring to it as "A-2 base" means that you specifically want crushed limestone flexible base that meets TxDOT standards for aggregate size, liquid limit, and plasticity index. In a nutshell, that means it will perform well.

(ii ) Thickness - This depends on two considerations - load capacity and soil conditions. The thinnest profile might be 2-3" of base if you are considering passenger vehicles for a driveway constructed over weathered limestone or caliche. The other end of the spectrum would be a 12" base profile for a fire lane/heavy truck drive lane over fatty clay soils. You asked about heavy vehicles and ag eqpt so that would be likely 6-8" minimum, more likely 10".

(iii ) Subgrade preparation - All organic materials should be stripped and removed. That means grass, vegetation, and the top 6" of topsoil. Ideally, you would scarify, water, and compact the next 6" of material, but that would be overkill for a non-commercial/industrial project.

Also, the base material should be installed in 4-6" lifts, watered heavily, then compacted with a ride-on roller - preferably a pad foot finished off with a smooth drum. Properly installed flex base will seem like softish concrete when installed properly, after it dries.
PFG
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Nice. This is what the OB is for.
Ribeye-Rare
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quote:
Sure, here are some basics:

Thanks for making the time to offer up a detailed answer on the base and on the prep work. That's some good information you shared, and I've got it printed and archived.

Send me a bill. :-)

It does appear that doing a good job on a clay soil ain't going to be cheap.

SD_71
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Would like to add my A++++ to the people who have suggested a good base. If you do not have a good base you will forever be trying to keep your road up. I think some are way over engineering and suggesting base material for very high heavy traffic roads. I think that is way over kill, Get a good blade operator and remove all of the vegetation and some of the top soil. It would not be a bad idea at this time to look at the lay of the land and maybe find someone with a lazer level and cut ditches and culverts if needed. Depending on the land you might want to cut some ditches to get water away from the road. and run down into the property. As you live there always remember that the surface of the road whatever it is needs maintenance. If you get potholes and rain the potholes hold water. When they hold water the water makes it's way down to the base and and the base gets wet and then it fails, Good Luck with your road project.
Not and engineer, but an old country boy who has built roads for about 35 years and have learned from my mistakes. If you have questions I don't build roads anymore except for my family or close friends so I have nothing to sell but would be happy to answer any questions to the best of my ability.
PFG
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Bumping this from last summer. Have gone back to it and wondering if anyone has done asphalt millings over a good limestone base and been happy with results.
RCR06
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Limestone base makes a hell of a good road.
FCBlitz
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My dad lives in Bulverde. He used tar and chips. Looks nice
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