Jointer Rehab Project

7,606 Views | 107 Replies | Last: 5 hrs ago by Dogdoc
BenTheGoodAg
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FWIW, I think you put more thought into matching the font than whomever originally decided on these fonts.

Mad respect from me, though. I like the attention to detail on this refurb.
ABATTBQ11
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Thanks! Yeah... They are all completely different. Luckily some font matching AI tools gave me a good jumping off point. I actually got an even better match on the keep hands clear one after looking around a little more. Pretty sure it's roboto something something. I did take a tape measure to the letters to get the right size and spacing. Honest to God it's almost random with how they decided to do it. I couldn't have done it without some free Adobe trial that let me use some archaic fonts and play with letter spacing really easily. The trick now will be figuring out what to print this on.

I forgot there's a label on the guard, too. I also forgot I need to strip and paint the guard.


Pics from tonight's cleaning session:










Before close-up




The base has been a ***** to clean. The pitch buildup was thick as a Kardashian and took a lot of hits of acetone, a wire brush, and a wire wheel to get it all off. There wasn't a great deal of surface rust, but what was, and kind of still is, there was just in hard to scrub places. I think another evening of cleaning should just about do it. I'll maybe also hit it with the Boeshield rust remover (not T-9) tomorrow night to get any minor rust spots before hitting it with primer. That's nasty stuff that'll take rust off in a wipe, but I don't want to use it if I don't have to.

ETA I'm also a little torn on whether or not to remove the serial number and cut depth plates. They're riveted, and if I put them back I'm just tapping the holes for screws.
ABATTBQ11
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I didn't get it quite as good as I wanted, but the outside of the base was good enough. The inside/bottom was cleaned up as good as I could get it without soaking in it some kind of stripper, which I'm not really set up for. Either way, I got a couple of coats on last night. I'll let them cure and hit the bottom over the weekend.



Next up is doing the fence, but I want to print my labels before I have to destroy the originals. For that I need a USB adapter because my printer cable goes to USB A but my laptop only has USB C.

After that comes the guard, which should be pretty easy. It's mostly just wire wheeling and cleaning it up for paint.

Then reassembly. I'll refurbish the cabinet some other time. That's its own can of worms (mostly because it's just really big and has a lot of buildup) that I don't have enough time for. I want to get it working and using it.
ABATTBQ11
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Got the underside of the base started. I'll get pictures when it's done, but it'll probably have to wait for awhile because I'll be gone most of the week. Started pulling tape off the tables. Drislide on the ways and Boeshield on the mating surfaces. I'll pull tape from the tops when they go back on.

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ABATTBQ11
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Rabbet ledge after a polish with 600 grit. It is baby butt smooth.



Fence support is done.

ABATTBQ11
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Finally home. No big updates, just started putting the fence together and realized I need to touch up some spots.



I also need to get a little more oxphoblue and hit a few more more parts I missed. I have one more way to clean and dry lube on the infeed table, then it's just a matter of waiting for the second coat of paint to dry on the base before doing some reassembly. Like an idiot, I painted the entirety of the outside of the bearing housings without thinking about them having a mating surface to the base. I only taped off the inner bearing mating surface. I'll need to get them lined up and take the paint off of those areas before putting them on the cutter head.

Left to do:
Clean and lube infeed table way
Fix paint on bearing housings.
Blue screws/washers
Print replacement labels and paint fence
Clean and repaint guard
Wire in new cord
ABATTBQ11
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This looks nice

AlaskanAg99
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Installed a shelix 8" on my dad's 1960's PM jointer. He was shocked how much quieter it was and his shop dust collection loves it.

To the point he replaced his planer with a 15" model with shelix heads.
aTm '99
AlaskanAg99
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Also, sounds like you need a shaper.

https://texags.com/forums/50/topics/3615366/replies/72647726
aTm '99
ABATTBQ11
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I'm ready to get it going. Wish I could do the shaper, but I don't have nearly enough room.
AlaskanAg99
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ABATTBQ11 said:

I'm ready to get it going. Wish I could do the shaper, but I don't have nearly enough room.


Its on wheels!
aTm '99
ABATTBQ11
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Haha I wish that was enough
ABATTBQ11
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Shelix head with bearing housings on and test fit. Bolt holes didn't line up the first time, but I wasn't quite bottomed out on one side. Gave it some more love taps and the second test was perfect. Now for the pulley, which I started but had to pull off because I wanted to clean and lube the hole a little better, and I ended up nicking the paint pretty bad because I dropped it as I tapped it off. Once it's dry tomorrow I'll get it on and get moving again.

ABATTBQ11
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Got it. It went on WAY easier. Gonna get it back on the cabinet and then get the tables on tonight or this afternoon.

javajaws
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You know you're gonna have to post a video with audio when this is done, right? We want to hear this baby purr!
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." - Ben Franklin
SoulSlaveAG2005
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If you're in ETX… I'd be happy to bring by some boards to joint on it… will save me some time on the table saw.

ABATTBQ11
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I'm in SA, but you could bring them by if you wanted
ABATTBQ11
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I will. Gotta get there first.
ABATTBQ11
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Infeed table is ready to go on. I forgot to reblue the set screw and delayed it a little. Outfeed will have to wait until after Cub Scouts tonight. I also reblued the table gib set screws and be some washers for the fence. They all came out really nice.

I had trouble getting the adjustment screws and blocks off when I took these off during disassembly because of the mounting blocks. I'm putting them on as an assembly because I think that's how it is supposed to work.

Dogdoc
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SoulSlaveAG2005 said:

If you're in ETX… I'd be happy to bring by some boards to joint on it… will save me some time on the table saw.



Dogdoc
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SoulSlaveAG2005 said:

If you're in ETX… I'd be happy to bring by some boards to joint on it… will save me some time on the table saw.



If you can get them to Lampasas, I can help you out.


ABATTBQ11
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Ignore the messy garage...



These were a ***** and a half. They are HEAVY, and I had to align them, get the table situated in the ways, then get the gib in and aligned to lock it in place so I could bolt down the adjustment blocks. The outfeed was especially bad because it didn't want to take the gib for a bit. In retrospect I should've cut the sleeve and added thrust washers because the outfeed movement is rough. The infeed is butter smooth though. It's SO much better than when I started. I thought I was binding something trying to crank it down to get it off, but it was just rough and dry. Now it glides up and down.

Adjustment and aligning are a problem for another day. For now, it's coming back together.


ETA Curiosity got the best of me. Coplanar they are not...



It's fixable though. I will need to shim the outfeed up a ton and the infeed a moderate amount, but it can be done.

Tomorrow I will get the fence mount on. I need to paint the bolts for the rabbet ledge (the ones already there are going to the fence. After that, I'm getting the fence base and adjustment pieces on so I can get some of my garage back.

Eventually I need to figure out the labels and do the fence. I may put it back on just to get it out of the way and just take it off later to refinish it. Same with the the guard.
AlaskanAg99
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Jointer setup is the worst. Looks of copper shims in your future. So long as it drops equally its not as bad but god help you if theres a small twist involved.
aTm '99
ABATTBQ11
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AG
It may end up being shimmed for a specific cut depth if that's the case...
AlaskanAg99
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ABATTBQ11 said:

It may end up being shimmed for a specific cut depth if that's the case...


Thats all I would do. With the small blades you dont need much space to change them out. Who cares if you have to run the piece multiple times? Not a production workshop where time matters.
aTm '99
ABATTBQ11
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AG
Tell that to my wife...
ABATTBQ11
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Fence adjustment mechanism is in place. It's really looking and functioning so much better. This was stiff and difficult to move, but now it glides across the support ledge and the adjustment is smooth and easy (so far without the fence itself). I need to clean and reinstall the angle indicator, but that's easy and quick.


BenTheGoodAg
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That's a money shot. The color & details are awesome.
ABATTBQ11
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Had to do a little disassembly to tighten some hard to reach bolts. Took the opportunity to polish the tables a little with some 600 grit and a sanding block. An orbital sander would be better, but I don't have 600-800 grit for mine. The sanding made it a lot smoother, and a piece of scrap maple slid right across. Some playing with the gib set screws to a lot of play out of the tables and brought them into much better alignment. I'll still need to shim it, but not nearly as much.



I also put the fence back on to get it out of the way until I'm ready for it. I really like the fence adjustment. It'll be super easy to establish square.



Ordered some vinyl sticker paper. Hopefully it works out for the labels. If they work out, I'll start stripping and painting this weekend. I also ordered new belts since the originals accidentally got left when I took it apart when I picked it up. I'll clean up as much of the guard as I can and start getting it squared away this weekend.
ABATTBQ11
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Started measuring where the tables are out of alignment. The outfeed closest to the fence is like .045" lower than the infeed when they're equal on the opposite end. The end of the table is out of plane by tenths. The infeed is out of alignment with the cutter head by about .030". Needless to say, there will be a lot of shimming. Does anyone have suggestions on where to buy brass shim stock? I don't want to pay $50 for a crap ton I'll probably never use.

Good news, belts arrive tomorrow. I can temp finish the wiring and fire it up soon.
AlaskanAg99
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Can find copper shims on Amazon.

You're measuring table to table and also in relation to the cutterhead?

Whole process sucks.
aTm '99
ABATTBQ11
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Yeah, I'm measuring table to table and table to cutterhead. it's gonna blow. Planning to get the cutterhead good first, then the outfeed. This will probably blow, but it'll be worth it

Have you ever ordered from Amazon? I know I can get shim stock, but I question the quality. It doesn't need to be perfect thicknesses, but I don't want it to be chinesium brass that wears down.
AlaskanAg99
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ABATTBQ11 said:

Yeah, I'm measuring table to table and table to cutterhead. it's gonna blow. Planning to get the cutterhead good first, then the outfeed. This will probably blow, but it'll be worth it

Have you ever ordered from Amazon? I know I can get shim stock, but I question the quality. It doesn't need to be perfect thicknesses, but I don't want it to be chinesium brass that wears down.


I may have purchased my set from Rockler or Woodcraft but that would have been nearly 20 years ago.
aTm '99
ABATTBQ11
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I may just order some and see what happens. In theory they should never move anyway. At least I know it can be shimmed. It was so far out at first that I was a little concerned. I played with it some and figure it's going to need like a 1/16" shim at the bottom to bring the table end up to parallel.
ABATTBQ11
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Getting a little binding when tightening down the shimmed cutterhead. Any tips?
 
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