Jointer Rehab Project

2,635 Views | 37 Replies | Last: 11 hrs ago by ABATTBQ11
ABATTBQ11
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AG
I bought this 8" jointer almost 2 years ago from the classifieds on TA. It was in really good shape, but it needed some TLC. As much as I've wanted to get to taking care of it, I've had too much going on and not enough room. It's also a 220v jointer, and I had to add a 220v circuit to my garage for it. It's got a 2HP, 3 phase motor with a phase converter to get it to single phase. Since it has plenty of power, I might get a helical cutter head for it.




I should've started taking pics as I got it apart for some before and afters, but oh well. The fence, fence mount, guard, and rabbet edge all came off pretty easily.

The tables were another story. I wasn't entirely sure how to remove them at first. There was a block bolted to the base that the adjustment screws went into, and looking back on it, I was supposed to unbolt that and slide them off with the adjustment screw assembly. Everything I saw said to remove the adjustment screws and then slide the tables off. I eventually figured out that I had to lower the tables and pull the cutter head to unbolt the adjustment blocks. The adjustment screw for the outfeed table came off ok and wasn't rusted too bad, but the infeed was rusted pretty bad and the thrust bearings were shot (I've got new ones coming). It took a lot of PB blaster soaking and tapping to finally shake the handle loose and get it apart and off the table.

Base after I cleaned the ways some


Uncleaned infeed table


Outfeed table after some degreaser and evaporust. I'll probably have to do some more work to get it cleaner.


Pieces from the adjustment screws and the cutter head gibs after an evaporust soaking. I have finished a bunch of other parts, but they weren't done when I took this.



I also had to file the way gibs flatter. They look like they've been reversed at some point and like the set screws have dimpled them in places. I think I've got them good now though. I'll probably coat them and the way dovetails in dri-slide (molybdenum disulfide) when I put everything back together. Honestly, I'll put it on everything that slides on this thing, as well as the adjustment screw threads.

Once the tables and base are all cleaned up, I'll get them back together and start taking apart the fence and cleaning everything. I'm not keen on painting anything at this point, but you never know. Depends on how I feel when this is closer to being done.
ABATTBQ11
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Here are more of the cleaned parts so far. This includes everything for both adjustment screws and their blocks. I realized I somehow screwed up the tip of the infeed screw trying to get it out. I've got a universal thread restorer coming tomorrow that should fix it.

For reference, it's the one with the big wheel. That housing sits between two thrust bearings and is held in a hole inside the table using a set screw. The long threads go into the block. To get the whole thing out you need to either remove the wheel/crank from the end, remove the thrust bearing and housing, and then pass the screw through the other end, or you can knock out the roll pin on the collar on the other and just slip it out. Both the roll pin and wheel were rusted on and wouldn't move without some convincing with a hammer, and somewhere in there the threads must've made contact with the table.




Speaking of the table, here is the cleaned versus uncleaned. Picture doesn't do it justice, but the outfeed looks a lot better now. I may come back with an orbital sander and very fine grit wet sand paper (like 600 or 800) to clean it up a little more.

[url=https://ibb.co/GBfR0HL][/url]
SoulSlaveAG2005
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That's awesome. Love old tools
Getting new life. A jointer is on my long term wish list for a shop… need a true shop first, but it'll have a jointer when I do!
Dogdoc
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AG
Get a Byrd Shelix cutterhead for it while you've got everything apart. Gamechanger.
ABATTBQ11
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It was on my list for a really long time. I don't look at the classifieds more than a couple times a year, but I happened to look and see it for sale in Houston. I also just happened to be going to Houston the next weekend to see my brother, so it worked out perfectly. It's especially great because it even has the original manual for it, and I ended up with a lot of other tools and a 12" DeWalt miter saw for like $650.
ABATTBQ11
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That's the plan. I need to go to AutoZone to rent a puller to get the bearing covers off and get measurements of the cutter head. There are multiple cutter heads with this model, so you really need to know which one you have. I will also probably replace the bearings since one of them sounds a little rough and I've got it apart.

Left to do:
Pull covers and bearings from cutter head
Clean infeed table surface
Clean under both tables
Remove pitch and buildup from base
Take apart and clean fence
Clean fence mount
Clean rabbet ledge
Clean up wiring to phase converter
Add plug to power cord (it was hardwired)

I think the whole job will take several weeks off and on, but it's exciting.

ETA I'd like to maybe paint some parts, but the best color match to the original paint is Rust-Oleum hammered deep green, which is no longer in production. A spray can now sells for $50, which is way more than I'm willing to pay.
ABATTBQ11
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Cutter head



Jacks


Gibs are already cleaned. This will have to wait until I get a puller to get the pulley, bearing covers, and bearings off the head. Planning on replacing this with a shelix, but I want to clean it and restore it just to have it.
ABATTBQ11
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Cutter head disassembled

ABATTBQ11
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Fence




Fence disassembled




Cleaned cutter head





Maybe this weekend I'll clean up the fence and finish the table tops. With the cutter head disassembled, I can take measurements for the shelix head. Apparently there were several different sizes of cutter head for this model over the years, and you need 3 measurements to get the right one. Kind of excited about the progress on this, but far less excited about dropping $700 for a cutter and new bearings and getting them in 2-3 months.
ABATTBQ11
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Got the threads on the infeed screw fixed. This tool was FANTASTIC. Couldn't get the end to thread a die to fix the threads, but this worked them from below and pushed them back into alignment. Took just a few minutes and was really easy.




Fence support before cleaning




Fence support after cleaning and with a coat of dri-slide




I think I'll paint a lot of the parts for the infeed and outfeed screws. I'll probably also blue the locking handles. That'll have to wait until my new thrust bearings come in this week.

I also cleaned up the fence adjustment pieces. The 90* lock was rusted stuck, but it popped itself free as I was getting things disassembled. I may strip them and blue them as well. The bracket between the fence and the bracket that attaches to the mount will probably need to be painted as well. Looks like I'll be doing more refinishing than I intended to make everything match, but that's ok. It'll look great when it's all done.
ABATTBQ11
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Infeed table cleaned up ok. It still has some staining and pitting that I'm not sure I can do anything with. Sealed both with Boeshield T-9.








Still to do:
Order shelix head
Clean base
Clean fence
Clean rabbet ledge
Strip fence adjustment screws and parts
Reblue fence adjustment screws and parts, as well as T-bars and some other stuff
Clean making surfaces on tables and mounts with wire wheel
Clean the underside of the tables

Paint everything. I've decided on a hunter green. It's the closest match I can find to the original green. I think I'll leave the cabinet though.
P.H. Dexippus
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you may take a look at this paint color match

https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/9p921n/resto_of_my_old_reed_machinists_vice_rustoleum/

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-Verde-Green-Hammered-Spray-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-12-oz/3728223
ABATTBQ11
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I think that's a little more blue than I'd like. Plus Lowe's has the hunter green in stock. But that's a great suggestion, and I appreciate it.

Started priming parts tonight.

ABATTBQ11
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Paint! Gotta wait 48 hours to cover the other sides, but plenty of work to do in-between.

ABATTBQ11
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Shelix head with new bearings has been ordered. Measured everything 3 times to ensure it's the right head because it is not cheap. Hopefully it ships quick and gets here soon, but apparently the lead times can sometimes be long.

Also, thought I'd share the parts diagram from the original manual. This has been really helpful in getting everything apart.

ABATTBQ11
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First attempt at bluing after a coat of T-9. Not as good as a hot blue, but probably fine.

ABATTBQ11
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Parts are coming together pretty well. Got most of the fence adjustment pieces touched up. With a fresh coat of bluing and T-9, they slide nice and easy. Just waiting for coats on other pieces to fully dry before seeing to put some of it back together.



Shelix head should ship in a week. I thought it would take much longer. Biggest items remaining are cleaning the sides and bottoms of the tables, fence, and base, then repainting them. I also need to paint and blue a little more hardware.
ABATTBQ11
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ABATTBQ11
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New cutter head gets here tomorrow. That was way faster than I thought.
SoulSlaveAG2005
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ABATTBQ11 said:

New cutter head gets here tomorrow. That was way faster than I thought.


That's awesome.
This message has been approved by Brad, Jerry and Mitch..
dudeabides
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I'm not very familiar with the blueing process, but doesn't T-9 have wax in it? If so, wouldn't that impede the blueing process to some extent, if you applied it beforehand? maybe that explains the results you had? IDK.... just wondering what your thoughts are on that. Great project, by the way!
ABATTBQ11
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I cleaned everything with mineral spirits/acetone first, then blued, then sealed with T-9. The blued surface will allow rust and corrosion, but the oil and wax from the T-9 seal it so it won't. The more porous surface from the bluing helps hold the oil.

Hot bluing is a much deeper and more permanent process, but it's much more involved and requires heated, caustic chemical baths.
ABATTBQ11
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Cutter head was delayed, probably by the storms that came through yesterday/last night. That's ok because I can't get it put together anytime soon anyway. I need the base and tables ready before I start putting the cutter head on.

Not much progress today, but I started on the new cord. Mistakenly I got some 10/3 when I probably could've just used 12/3. Apparently 15A 220 plugs like to max out at 12awg wire, but the 10awg seemed to fit ok on the terminals, and the clamps closed on it completely. It'll probably be fine for what I need it to do. I should have some rings to crimp on the other end to attach to the phase converter, but I can't seen to find them. I'll get more and start wiring it up. Then I have to find a place to mount it. One side is mostly taken up by the motor control box, another has the panel to access the cabinet, the third is the output chute, and the fourth is the front that I didn't necessarily want a power cable and box strapped to. It's a bit of a conundrum.

I also want to preserve or recreate the warning labels on the fence. They're a little worn but still perfectly legible. I put a picture of one into ChatGPT to recreate it, and it did a half decent job after a couple of tries. I'll need to print it and see how well it comes out.
ABATTBQ11
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It's here!



Unfortunately my wife's car battery keeps dying, so that will take precedence until it's solved. Battery reads good at AZ and takes a charge, alternator is charging at 13.5v, and there's no parasitic drain when the car is off. Kind of at a loss.

ETA Second battery test says it's bad. Looks like jointer work is back on.
SoulSlaveAG2005
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ABATTBQ11 said:

It's here!



Unfortunately my wife's car battery keeps dying, so that will take precedence until it's solved. Battery reads good at AZ and takes a charge, alternator is charging at 13.5v, and there's no parasitic drain when the car is off. Kind of at a loss.

ETA Second battery test says it's bad. Looks like jointer work is back on.


Excellent! My wife's Honda did same thing. Went to AZ, said it's good. Went to Mass and got stuck there until I could get a ride to get my truck and jump it. Straight to O'Reilly to replace.
ABATTBQ11
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Started cleaning the infeed table to get it ready for new paint. Not stripping everything of because some of the paint and other is still good. It looks like there's a thick brown primer or some other layer under the original green paint which makes determining what is rust and what isn't kind of difficult. I figure if it's survived this long and a good eye brushing it's probably fine.

Before:


After:






It'll get a coat of primer when it cools down tonight. Just too hot right now.


Taped and ready.


ABATTBQ11
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Got primer on the infeed table and rabbet ledge.





I'll put actual paint on later tonight
ABATTBQ11
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Starting to take shape. Need the outfeed and base cleaned before I can start putting it back together, but that should be doable in a week or two. The fence will that a little more. I really don't want to destroy the stickers without good replacements first. I may put it together without refinishing and just do it once I get the stickers done.

SoulSlaveAG2005
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Abatt this you?

ABATTBQ11
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AG
He's not entirely wrong, but he's leaving out one very important part of restoring a used jointer: finding one. I did a search just now and there was 1 posted in my area in the last couple of months, and that was 2 hours away. Availability is highly variable. A lot of them don't necessarily come at a premium, but they didn't have a discount either. I found that exact model on Craigslist in Houston in worse shape, but they were asking $500. I could buy a bench top jointer tomorrow with ease. I almost did on more than one occasion, but I didn't want to throw money at an aluminum fence and didn't have the time to actually use it enough to justify it.

There's also the question of what motor you have. A 6" is probably more likely to have a 110v, but older models can easily come with 220v like mine. If you're not wired for 220v, you either need a new circuit like me or you need a new motor.

Newer bench tops are also likely parallelogram instead of dovetail ways. Both have advantages, but a lot of people tend towards considering parallelogram as better. You have four adjustment points to get the tables coplanar and adjust for any sag instead of having to shim the ways.
ABATTBQ11
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Also, update time. Got second coats on some parts Friday night and started painting the outfeed. Infeed is completely done. Got some before pics of the outfeed, but no after. I finished at like 2am and just didn't feel like taking any. It had some bad rust spots on the front, but otherwise not bad. Base is the biggest piece remaining. After that, I just need the fence and guard along with some nuts and bolts. Hopefully shouldn't be more than a couple more weeks. I've been avoiding the fence and guard because of the labels. I've decided I'll try to remove the fence's. The guard's probably isn't in good enough shape, but I can try to make a new one. It's hard to do exact matches because they're all different and kind of weird fonts.
SoulSlaveAG2005
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ABATTBQ11 said:

He's not entirely wrong, but he's leaving out one very important part of restoring a used jointer: finding one. I did a search just now and there was 1 posted in my area in the last couple of months, and that was 2 hours away. Availability is highly variable. A lot of them don't necessarily come at a premium, but they didn't have a discount either. I found that exact model on Craigslist in Houston in worse shape, but they were asking $500. I could buy a bench top jointer tomorrow with ease. I almost did on more than one occasion, but I didn't want to throw money at an aluminum fence and didn't have the time to actually use it enough to justify it.

There's also the question of what motor you have. A 6" is probably more likely to have a 110v, but older models can easily come with 220v like mine. If you're not wired for 220v, you either need a new circuit like me or you need a new motor.

Newer bench tops are also likely parallelogram instead of dovetail ways. Both have advantages, but a lot of people tend towards considering parallelogram as better. You have four adjustment points to get the tables coplanar and adjust for any sag instead of having to shim the ways.


It's never as easy as YouTube makes it out to be. I just laughed as it popped up in my feed while searching. I guess texags cookies and YouTube cookies talk. Lol
ABATTBQ11
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The algorithm is listening
ABATTBQ11
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Got some bolts and other hardware painted this morning. Outfeed table has a finish coat as well. Got up late after a lake weekend and didn't really feel like cleaning up the case with as hot as it is outside. Maybe I'll do it tonight.
ABATTBQ11
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Pic update

Outfeed







Base





I've started wire wheeling it, but it will take a bit. Lots of buildup and nooks and crannies/corners.



Started trying to replicate the original warnings. Not bad...








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