Aggie71013 said:

---

Out of curiosity what led to the decision to tear out the brick? My house was not mortared well (too much sand and it's pitting in various places) and I'm worried eventually it'll be cheaper to tear it out and start over then repair the mortar.

I also plan to redo the siding I have soon and have debated putting in new insulation, ZIP R, etc. I'm sure I just have asphalt paper behind it right now. Was the quote to this type of rebuild like 5x or 10x compared to just replacing the siding?

---

I just knew what was behind the brick wasn't good. My house was miserable in summer and winter. I just wanted to get a well-insulated, air tight enclosure. And after seeing what was behind there, I'm glad I did.

You should do it if you can. I didn't get one turnkey quote from one contractor. Since I work in construction I get good deals on materials, so I just bought all the materials and hired a few framers.

Let me know if can help you in any way.

Brick has arrived.

mrmill3218 said:

---

Demo continued today. Bottom plate had water damage in some locations. Building enclosure was basically Swiss cheese. Exterior drywall product was used for the sheathing. No mortar net and no base wall flashing.

---

We did a demo on a shower in a 1960's home and found the base 2x4 and some of the vertical 2x4's were rotted away.

There are always "adventures in demo" that add to the fun.

Did you talk with someone from Huber on putting insulation over the zip sheathing? Zip is your weather barrier. Then you put your rain screen over that.

I did not consult with anyone from Huber but I have seen this detail done before. I did consult with an architect/waterproofing consultant, however.

dubi said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

Demo continued today. Bottom plate had water damage in some locations. Building enclosure was basically Swiss cheese. Exterior drywall product was used for the sheathing. No mortar net and no base wall flashing.

---

We did a demo on a shower in a 1960's home and found the base 2x4 and some of the vertical 2x4's were rotted away.

There are always "adventures in demo" that add to the fun.

---

I've definitely seen that before. My sill plate was pretty rotted in some places, but it hasn't been too bad overall.

A bit of progress this morning after a couple days off.

Moral High Horse said:

---

Did you talk with someone from Huber on putting insulation over the zip sheathing? Zip is your weather barrier. Then you put your rain screen over that.

---

Continuous exterior insulation is a pretty common configuration. It breaks the thermal bridging that the studs create.

TMoney2007 said:

---

Moral High Horse said:

---

Did you talk with someone from Huber on putting insulation over the zip sheathing? Zip is your weather barrier. Then you put your rain screen over that.

---

Continuous exterior insulation is a pretty common configuration. It breaks the thermal bridging that the studs create.

---

Yes sir, that's exactly right.

More sheathing on and a couple windows installed. The framer taped the bottom flanges, which will need to be fixed. Although it probably wouldn't matter with those large overhangs.

Got a few more guys this morning. Working on liquid flashing that nail heads and base wall.

Some more progress this morning. Demo'ing another wall, installing windows, getting sheathing up, liquid flashing the base wall.

Is the wood around the front door coming off too?

It is. They've just been demo'ing in phases.

Rigid insulation going up on east elevation. Bug screen and hardie plank going on at west elevation. It's important the seams from the 2" rigid insulation board don't match up with the seams for the zip sheating.

mrmill3218 said:

---

TMoney2007 said:

---

Moral High Horse said:

---

Did you talk with someone from Huber on putting insulation over the zip sheathing? Zip is your weather barrier. Then you put your rain screen over that.

---

Continuous exterior insulation is a pretty common configuration. It breaks the thermal bridging that the studs create.

---

Yes sir, that's exactly right.

---

Sorry, I should have clarified. My question was as it relates to vapor permeance. We typically use Hunter Ply or Huber on our projects and the question normally brought up is where is the project and how do we need to evaluate vapor permeance.

If you've already spoken with someone with regard to WRB I'd imagine this was already discussed but I'm just curious:

1. What region is your house located?
2. Why not use OSB as the sheathing and rely on the foamular exterior as the WRB?
3. Since huber is also a WRB and I think Foamular is as well it's a pretty tight house, my concern is vapor permeability and moisture buildup inside the walls.
4. If the rest of the envelope (roof, other walls, soffit, etc.) is pretty tight are you having to bring Outside air for your mechanical for air quality?
5. The base detail at the zip looks like it's close or direct contact with the slab. Is that the case? Here's a detail we typically use: Huber

I enjoy watching the progress. Thank you for sharing.

Moral High Horse said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

TMoney2007 said:

---

Moral High Horse said:

---

Did you talk with someone from Huber on putting insulation over the zip sheathing? Zip is your weather barrier. Then you put your rain screen over that.

---

Continuous exterior insulation is a pretty common configuration. It breaks the thermal bridging that the studs create.

---

Yes sir, that's exactly right.

---

Sorry, I should have clarified. My question was as it relates to vapor permeance. We typically use Hunter Ply or Huber on our projects and the question normally brought up is where is the project and how do we need to evaluate vapor permeance.

If you've already spoken with someone with regard to WRB I'd imagine this was already discussed but I'm just curious:

1. What region is your house located?

North Texas

2. Why not use OSB as the sheathing and rely on the foamular exterior as the WRB?

I guess I could have done that. I'd have to look into how the rigid performs as a WRB. Generally I like zip because you don't have the tyvek origami, but if I understand your question correctly, I think you are suggested no tyvek and having the rigid be the WRB, which I suppose could be done.

3. Since huber is also a WRB and I think Foamular is as well it's a pretty tight house, my concern is vapor permeability and moisture buildup inside the walls.

Both the zip and the rigid are permeable so I don't foresee any issue with condensation. In the north they use a vapor barrier on the inside of the wall because of how much they heat their houses. For me, most of the time the heat will come from the outside and the zip and rigid will simply let the vapor pass through to the inside where the AC deals with it. If I put a vapor barrier on the inside of the wall I think I would be in trouble.

4. If the rest of the envelope (roof, other walls, soffit, etc.) is pretty tight are you having to bring Outside air for your mechanical for air quality?

I will be bringing in outside air; however, at the moment the roof and soffits are still pretty leaky. Just to be safe, I have been opening windows here and there for a bit. I quote a quote on an ERV system and it was like $11k lol.

5. The base detail at the zip looks like it's close or direct contact with the slab. Is that the case? Here's a detail we typically use: Huber

Thanks for sharing this detail. I haven't seen the flashing fastened to the studs behind the zip like that before. The zip is in direct contact with the slab at my house. I told them to do some basewall flashing with a piece of sheet metal but they didn't do it. I will have to see if it can be done after the fact by maybe sticking it up behind the rigid. Do you foresee an issue with the zip touching the slab? I shared these ideas and photos with my waterproofing consultant and he didn't balk at all. I will make the disclaimer that I am not an expert in building science but rather trying to learn.

I enjoy watching the progress. Thank you for sharing.

Thank you! Appreciate your comments.

---

Electrician here fixing some bad wiring.

Siding complete on west elevation.

JP76 said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

---

Are those junction boxes staying in the wall cavity ?

Did you find any active termites by that window ? That framing under the window indicates they were there in the past

---

Boxes are staying in the wall cavity. I'm not an expert in electrical but that's what the electrician recommended. No active termites but I agree that they were there. I asked the guys to replace that stud but they never did. It's tough to keep track of everything.

Work continuing today. Siding on east elevation.

Progress on siding and bug screen going in at the bottom.

Marvin_Zindler said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

JP76 said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

---

Are those junction boxes staying in the wall cavity ?

Did you find any active termites by that window ? That framing under the window indicates they were there in the past

---

Boxes are staying in the wall cavity. I'm not an expert in electrical but that's what the electrician recommended. No active termites but I agree that they were there. I asked the guys to replace that stud but they never did. It's tough to keep track of everything.

---

Are the wires in those boxes still hot? If so, leaving them in the wall like that is a big No-No (code violation)....regardless of what your electrician said.

---

I believe they were still hot. He capped them all and covered the box but they were hot.

mrmill3218 said:

---

Marvin_Zindler said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

JP76 said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

---

Are those junction boxes staying in the wall cavity ?

Did you find any active termites by that window ? That framing under the window indicates they were there in the past

---

Boxes are staying in the wall cavity. I'm not an expert in electrical but that's what the electrician recommended. No active termites but I agree that they were there. I asked the guys to replace that stud but they never did. It's tough to keep track of everything.

---

Are the wires in those boxes still hot? If so, leaving them in the wall like that is a big No-No (code violation)....regardless of what your electrician said.

---

I believe they were still hot. He capped them all and covered the box but they were hot.

---

I wouldn't accept that. Code requires that you have access to the wires spliced in those boxes.

mrmill3218 said:

---

Marvin_Zindler said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

JP76 said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

---

Are those junction boxes staying in the wall cavity ?

Did you find any active termites by that window ? That framing under the window indicates they were there in the past

---

Boxes are staying in the wall cavity. I'm not an expert in electrical but that's what the electrician recommended. No active termites but I agree that they were there. I asked the guys to replace that stud but they never did. It's tough to keep track of everything.

---

Are the wires in those boxes still hot? If so, leaving them in the wall like that is a big No-No (code violation)....regardless of what your electrician said.

---

I believe they were still hot. He capped them all and covered the box but they were hot.

---

As Marvin noted, that's a big No No...major code violation! He sure have installed the junction boxes on the interior wall with a blank cover plate, as he has on them now, to meet code. Otherwise, he would have to remove the splices in the walls by running new wiring from the next adjacent junction boxes.

Gary79Ag said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

Marvin_Zindler said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

JP76 said:

---

mrmill3218 said:

---

---

Are those junction boxes staying in the wall cavity ?

Did you find any active termites by that window ? That framing under the window indicates they were there in the past

---

Boxes are staying in the wall cavity. I'm not an expert in electrical but that's what the electrician recommended. No active termites but I agree that they were there. I asked the guys to replace that stud but they never did. It's tough to keep track of everything.

---

Are the wires in those boxes still hot? If so, leaving them in the wall like that is a big No-No (code violation)....regardless of what your electrician said.

---

I believe they were still hot. He capped them all and covered the box but they were hot.

---

As Marvin noted, that's a big No No...major code violation! He sure have installed the junction boxes on the interior wall with a blank cover plate, as he has on them now, to meet code. Otherwise, he would have to remove the splices in the walls aby running new wiring from the next adjacent junction boxes.

---

Well I appreciate the feedback. I will have him come install them on the interior wall. Should just be a small bit of drywall work to do so. Thank y'all!