Wanted to post a build thread for a library I'm planning to build-out in our under-stairs closet.

Long story short, we've got way too many books and not enough space. With our lifestyle, that's going to continue. So I suggested a conversion of the closet underneath our stairs, which is very under-utilized space. All-in, I think we can add space for 2500 books, and it can serve as an expanded pantry for future buyers, due to proximity to the kitchen.



So, the twist to this space is that is pretty narrow. I decided to take in the space between the drywall and incorporate the studs into the shelving design. This adds a lot of vertical, but makes it possible to put shelves on both sides of the closet. In my head, I expected these shelves to be painted, but will end up being stained, so a lot of detail work. This image is a bit fisheye, but gives an idea of expected floorspace. We expect to add a couple of beanbags in the back with a reading light.



I enjoy carpentry, and continue to learn, but will need to pick up a few skills on this project. I just got a nice cabinet saw, so a good chance to put it to work.



I've got my idea designed in Fusion, and accounted for the studs and tolerances. I came up with this trim design to help visually account for high number of vertical lines, and it matches some of the trim in our house. I'll plan to tile the floor with the same tile that's in the rest of our house. Most of the shelves will be adjustable, with tracks, but a couple of layers will be fixed to help keep the individual bays true, due to the height.



And finally, I printed a model of it. I find this really handed to look it over and make adjustments. This is my 3rd iteration of this print, with some tweaks in between prints.



Hope this will be a fun project to follow and leverage expertise on here for.

Happy 4th, yall!

for my OCD's sake, can you make the tallest column also have the double-size space at the top like all the others?

Some updates from this weekend:

- Removed the ceiling drywall. I was originally thinking about keeping, but decided it'd be easier to a lot of things (electrical tweaks, installation of the shelves, lighting install, etc).

- Relocated electrical in the walls to better locations. There were 3 outlets and one light box throughout the walls. I was able to relocate the outlets, but the light box isn't going anywhere. I'll have to make a portion of that shelf a little shallower.


- Replaced two studs that were badly warped. One had been nearly cut through and the original installer had installed some bracing that would take up shelf space. I used an oscillating tool to cut off the drywall off of the old studs. The backside of this wall is a floor to ceiling built-in set of cabinets, so boogering up the drywall wasn't a big deal. Add a couple of extra screws from the backside cabinet to the new studs.


- I've had a nice Shop Fox table saw base, but with the new saw, needed the extension. Got that in and installed. I'm going to have to tweak the outfeed table since the saw sits a little taller, and the adjustable feet weren't tall enough. I can shim it for this project, but that's another project for another day.

- Made some tweaks to the design to account for actual conditions. First - moving the back shelf up one bay, which adds another row. I can make these back shelves much deeper, and it actually adds shelf space. Second - planning to taper the top corner of the closet instead of keeping it to a point. Third - added some lighting just for the visual. Thinking six adjustable can lights, plus the reading light. Overall, I think this looks much better, personally.


Next step is to buy the plywood and S2S Oak. They didn't have what I needed in stock but will this week.

ETA - I also fixed the shelves, just for sts7049's sake

Some updates from this morning:

Started getting tons of materials in:
- Wood-look Tile to match the rest of the house

- Shelving tracks for the adjustable shelves.
- Got several tools in (mostly router bits and setup blocks).
- Went and grabbed most of the wood. I overbought the 4/4 oak for this and a few other projects, Got about 140 board-feet, and probably will use 80-90 to do this project. Thankfully it fit in the space I remaining for my material storage. I was really happy with the lengths they had available. I also got 5 sheets of plywood, but need to get a few more when they get more back in stock.




One of my prints finished this morning. Had to re-print due to the groove being slightly too tight for the plywood. This is a cleat (will be 4 in total) to help me set and secure the top plate at the correct angle. It also helps me measure and set it at the right height on the box. Still amazing how a 3D printer can pop out a custom tool.

Story time, and reason #7,903 a 3D printer has been a game-changer for me.

A young BenTheGoodAg went to an old cabinet-maker's estate sale, and was shocked to learn that he had 4 different table saws! I now understand that cabinet and related work really benefits from multiple machines that are set up for one function, or one cut, or one specific pass, etc. This helps ensure that every cabinet is the same depth, the dados are set the same, etc. Very beneficially for repeatable work.

I was recently given a old table saw, a Craftsman 10" belt-driven contractor saw. It's got a big deck, some good features, but needed some work if I was going to keep using it, and probably a different fence. If you get it set, it works, but it's not great for changing between cuts. My new saw, with the Biesenmeyer style fence is significantly easier to set up for new cuts, and way more adjustable.

I had actually listed the Crafstman for sale, and hadn't gotten a bite yet, when it hit me that I could be using it for this project. I need to add a couple of grooves for the shelf track, and a dado blade on a table saw would be ideal over a router jig, especially given the length of the grooves. I actually have a Dado stack, but no throat insert for this saw. So I pulled up my CAD and got to work.

Overall, the new one was too big for my printer, and needed to be made in two pieces. Compared to the old one:


Gluing together:


Perfect fit. This plate is made with PETG, which is basically what Coca-cola bottles and storage totes and trash cans are made from. There are other plastics that may be better for longer term use, but for this project, it'll work perfect.


Great results:


I'll go back and tweak the insert for close to zero clearance and let it print while I'm working on other things

So bottom line, you can buy throat inserts, but this was A - faster (ready in 7 hours). B - cheaper (probably $2.50 in plastic). C - Repeatable/tweakable (if it didn't fit, just tweak and re-print). D - Totally functional!

Got my first box completed. Mostly just wanted to make sure all of the steps worked before cutting a bunch of plywood.

I refined my model to make a bunch of measurements on the angles (and to keep learning some Fusion tricks). Not all boxes shown here.



Here's my jig to cut shelf dado's with a router and a 23/32" straight bit. Will dado the bottom and 3rd shelf.



Got the first box assembled and tested in place. This is in the back corner:



But saving best for last - here's how my back corner turned out. I'm frickin' proud of that angled joint. If I can consistently achieve that, I'll be in the money. Nobody will probably ever notice it once the trim is up, but I'll know.




ETA - good wax makes a good tool better.

Final update for the weekend, and maybe for a little while until I can get more materials in and find the schedule to do more.

- Got the zero clearance dado throat insert set up and really pleased with the results. I have never used a dado blade before this project, but always wanted to. I think I'd find it hard to go back to a router with a straight bit if given the choice.
- There are 13 boxes in total, 6 on each side and one in the back. One of the boxes is going to be a one-off due to the electrical, and the one in the back is also a one-off. Otherwise, I've cut up, dado'd, and grooved all of the plywood for the other 11 boxes. I don't have the lumber for the adjustable shelves, but here's the stack from a day's work:


I am trying to decide between a couple of options for the trim on the front of the fixed middle shelves. I could either cut up individual 1"x2" trim pieces (shown below on the left with red border), or I could cut a 1"x2" groove on the boxes, and install one long piece to help tie the boxes together at the middle (shown below on the right with blue border). Ultimately, there will be a large piece of vertical trim on top of this, so I don't think it's an appearance issue - I just think it might add a nice bit of reinforcement in the middle so they're all fixed together at that elevation. It may not matter, but it's much easier to do now before I start building boxes.

My schedule got turned around this week, so I managed to make some good progress:

- Grabbed a picture of the angle top jig in action. Worked great:



Decided to cut a dado on the front to tie the boxes together one the fixed shelf front trim:


Got 11 of 13 boxes built. Everything looks nice and straight. All the angles are where I wanted them. Joints look awesome. I did have two pins that I popped in a little too high that I will have to use some wood filler for:


Tested fitment (backs weren't installed). Gives a nice taste of what it will look like:


Wife was very happy with the space and size of the shelves, and it's nice to start seeing it materialize in person.

A couple of things I've been debating:
- Thinking once I have the boxes all set and shimmed and tied into the studs, I may go back with spray foam to fill all the cracks and keep everything snug and even more sound resistant. Also, the stair creak a lot more with the drywall off. I may put some spray foam in all the cracks there as well just to further cut down noise.
- The back of the boxes sit on the bottom plate. I need to attach another stud close to the front of the box. I've always used pressure treated on concrete, but I'm about 80% sure none of the interior bottom plates here are pressure treated (and just not typical for our area). After reading the other thread, I'm a little worried about shrinkage, and may go with a dry stud. Out of habit, though, I really want to stick with pressure treated.