Looks like batch to batch differences with the tile. That's why you would mix the tiles up if the job couldn't be done with just one of them. It doesn't work so well in times like this when there isn't enough of the original left over
Home Library Build (Pic Heavy)
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Last: 1 yr ago by BenTheGoodAg
Wow! Very nice progress so far.
A man can never have enough tools.......and from the looks of the inside of that door I wouldn't worry much about the tile.......
Thanks...
Got the poly done and the boxes all moved back into the closet. It really is starting to look more like the final product and gives a nice teaser for the final colors and space. Overall, really happy with the progress tonight.
Still got a lot of work in front of me, but dang, that's a nice upgrade from what was there.
Still got a lot of work in front of me, but dang, that's a nice upgrade from what was there.
Got the drywall back up and first layer of mud in. The toughest joint for the ceiling is where the angle meets the level ceiling (143 degrees). I managed to keep it pretty straight, but I'll need to load a little more joint compound. The angle of this photo is pretty extreme, and you'd really have to crane your neck to look at it when you walk in. This detail won't get much notice. I'll add some molding on the back corner (not seen).
I printed a 143 degree sanding block last night to help make the finish a little more consistent.
I think texturing this top corner might be a little tough. I've used both a hopper and pre-mixed cans and struggled with both to get a good angle on ceilings. I've had good luck with cans for a closet like this, so I'll probably start there.
ETA - This thread is brought to you by Advil - Breakfast of Champions
I printed a 143 degree sanding block last night to help make the finish a little more consistent.
I think texturing this top corner might be a little tough. I've used both a hopper and pre-mixed cans and struggled with both to get a good angle on ceilings. I've had good luck with cans for a closet like this, so I'll probably start there.
ETA - This thread is brought to you by Advil - Breakfast of Champions
You sure that's 143deg? Looks like 142 to me. You probably should go back and recheck.
txag2008 said:
You sure that's 143deg? Looks like 142 to me. You probably should go back and recheck.
My kids will tell people "Dad used to say 'Measure 11 times, cut once most of the time'"
What finish is your texture?
It's just knockdown.
143, 144, whatever it takestxag2008 said:
You sure that's 143deg? Looks like 142 to me. You probably should go back and recheck.
I have a track saw, and I really like it. I have the Makita SP6000J, and I used it to build all the cabinets in my house. It is so much easier to break down plywood with it than to do so on a table saw. If I had the right tables, I could use the table saw. i did build an assembly table that doubles as an out-feed for my table saw.
As for another table saw, I would not recommend it. You can break down goods at home if you need to work somewhere else. It is hard to go to a less powerful table saw once you use one like the one in your garage.
If you buy a table saw, look into the parallel guides. You can get them by Seneca or on etsy. In fact, you can probably 3d print your own.
Edit: The above sentence should have said If you buy a "track" saw....
As for another table saw, I would not recommend it. You can break down goods at home if you need to work somewhere else. It is hard to go to a less powerful table saw once you use one like the one in your garage.
If you buy a table saw, look into the parallel guides. You can get them by Seneca or on etsy. In fact, you can probably 3d print your own.
Edit: The above sentence should have said If you buy a "track" saw....
I was very interested in the Mikita, so I'm glad to hear good things from someone who owns it.
I'm with you on the 'infeed' table. I've considered building two smaller identical outfeed tables that give me either the ability to use for 1 infeed for sheet goods, or double up on outfeed for wide items. I've still got some time to think about it, but sounds like we had some similar considerations.
I'm with you on the 'infeed' table. I've considered building two smaller identical outfeed tables that give me either the ability to use for 1 infeed for sheet goods, or double up on outfeed for wide items. I've still got some time to think about it, but sounds like we had some similar considerations.
Can't wait to see it complete & filled with books/etc. KUDOS
Ten words or less ... a goal unattainable
Parallel guides for a table saw? That would've been a game changer for me.
The track saw decision for me was about how I work. It is easier for me to work the saw through the material instead of pushing sheets through a table saw.
My speed was very good as I could break down a lot of sheet goods quickly. For my house, it was over 75 sheets of 3/4. If you add in the 1/4 and the 1/2 for backs and drawers, it was probably 100 or more.
I also bought the longer track.
My speed was very good as I could break down a lot of sheet goods quickly. For my house, it was over 75 sheets of 3/4. If you add in the 1/4 and the 1/2 for backs and drawers, it was probably 100 or more.
I also bought the longer track.
parallel guides with a table saw? like a sled?
I thought the whole point of parallel guides was for track saws or circular saws if you weren't using a table saw.
I thought the whole point of parallel guides was for track saws or circular saws if you weren't using a table saw.
I am also confused on the parallel guides on a table saw. I think this must be for a track saw as mentioned above.
I mistyped in the previous message. The fence is obvious the parallel guide in a table saw. For a track saw, you can get parallel guides to make cuts easy to reproduce. If you are going to do a lot of cuts the same size (like cabinets or bookcases), you gain accuracy and efficiency.
Try wet mud on a knockdown sponge? I've done some patching that way.
Knockdown Texture Sponge, Wall Texture, Ceiling Texture Sponge, Drywall Patch, Drywall Repair, Large Sponge, Contractor Value, 2 pack https://a.co/d/e2QMncH
Knockdown Texture Sponge, Wall Texture, Ceiling Texture Sponge, Drywall Patch, Drywall Repair, Large Sponge, Contractor Value, 2 pack https://a.co/d/e2QMncH
That's cool. I've never used one. I ended up texturing with the cans, and overall it did a good job, just a lot of wastage on the top level ceiling.
There are a few spots that could use some touch-up now that the lighting is back in place, so I actually may try this for those spots before I paint.
There are a few spots that could use some touch-up now that the lighting is back in place, so I actually may try this for those spots before I paint.
It's hard to get the tiny spots and specks with the sponge to match the spray pattern. If I had todo it over, I'd get some soggy mud and flick it at the gyp before adding the globs with the sponge.
Ben, last pic posted was a bowl of Advil. Any pictorial updates?
GReat project BTW.
GReat project BTW.
Thanks!
Some updates
- The ceiling up, textured, and primed, and I think it looks pretty nice.
- I pivoted again on the lighting - found a trim that uses a regular bulb, and used an R16 instead of the R20 it was designed for. This reduces the lumens some, and pulls the lamp into the lamp to reduce the direct glare with a pretty minimal impact on the light spread. I'll still use R20 lamps on the top, since they're way above eye level.
- Cut up the 50 million pilasters (shelf tracks) and got them in place. I needed to order a batch of ORB screws to match, but I tried a few out with some zinc screws I had on hand to get the size right. I do like the contrast of the wood color and the dark tracks. This one is for AggieTaco.
I also made a couple of sample adjustable shelves and trim (below are just scraps) so that I can get them sized correctly. And added a couple of books to get a sense of how much space they take need vertically to get a good count of how many spare shelves I might need.
Next step is start jointing/planing my rough cut lumber so that I make the full set of shelves.
Some updates
- The ceiling up, textured, and primed, and I think it looks pretty nice.
- I pivoted again on the lighting - found a trim that uses a regular bulb, and used an R16 instead of the R20 it was designed for. This reduces the lumens some, and pulls the lamp into the lamp to reduce the direct glare with a pretty minimal impact on the light spread. I'll still use R20 lamps on the top, since they're way above eye level.
- Cut up the 50 million pilasters (shelf tracks) and got them in place. I needed to order a batch of ORB screws to match, but I tried a few out with some zinc screws I had on hand to get the size right. I do like the contrast of the wood color and the dark tracks. This one is for AggieTaco
.I also made a couple of sample adjustable shelves and trim (below are just scraps) so that I can get them sized correctly. And added a couple of books to get a sense of how much space they take need vertically to get a good count of how many spare shelves I might need.
Next step is start jointing/planing my rough cut lumber so that I make the full set of shelves.
Well I'm a clumsy dumbass and tripped over myself in an attic this morning. So, I'll get to practice some ceiling texturing in our dining room. On the bright side, it only took me 67 minutes to get a patch and first layer of mud in place with all the scrap I had on hand.UnderoosAg said:
It's hard to get the tiny spots and specks with the sponge to match the spray pattern. If I had todo it over, I'd get some soggy mud and flick it at the gyp before adding the globs with the sponge.
Idiot...
Ceiling Cat is mad you closed up his portal...BenTheGoodAg said:Well I'm a clumsy dumbass and tripped over myself in an attic this morning. So, I'll get to practice some ceiling texturing in our dining room. On the bright side, it only took me 67 minutes to get a patch and first layer of mud in place with all the scrap I had on hand.UnderoosAg said:
It's hard to get the tiny spots and specks with the sponge to match the spray pattern. If I had todo it over, I'd get some soggy mud and flick it at the gyp before adding the globs with the sponge.
Idiot...
Impressive, OP.
Likely will need a small LED flashlight to help read the spine titles.
Likely will need a small LED flashlight to help read the spine titles.
Thanks!
Funny how lighting has probably gotten the most discussion on this thread. There's been too much light, too little light, lights in the wrong spots, glare, etc.
It's a really good detail to think through, and there aren't a lot of great options in this space just trying to balance the lack of headroom and angle. But I think it will be fine - the pictures don't do a lot of justice to the real-life contrast, and it'll only get better once the other three fixtures have the same trim. There's some trade space here, but I think it's the best option for what I have to work with.
Funny how lighting has probably gotten the most discussion on this thread. There's been too much light, too little light, lights in the wrong spots, glare, etc.
It's a really good detail to think through, and there aren't a lot of great options in this space just trying to balance the lack of headroom and angle. But I think it will be fine - the pictures don't do a lot of justice to the real-life contrast, and it'll only get better once the other three fixtures have the same trim. There's some trade space here, but I think it's the best option for what I have to work with.
I'll go grab my drywall saw and let my wife know the good news
Looks great. I'm doing my best to ignore the contrast.
Nice update for today - got all the adjustable shelves made up. I'm liking the look a lot:
- Found all the most warped of the oak and cut it down and finished with the jointer/table saw/planer for the face. Figured with all these pieces being the smallest, best to take advantage of that stock.
- I've got a sled, but it doesn't have a stop, so I set up a "meat slicer" with a couple of miter gauges and used the fence to cross-cut all of the shelves to a consistent size (not all the boxes are the same width due to stud spacing).
- Made 9 extra shelves for a total of 52.
And since it's a pic-heavy thread - sharing a freakin' awesome sunrise while on the way to work this week:
Next steps is either to stain adjustable shelves, or start finishing the face lumber.
- Found all the most warped of the oak and cut it down and finished with the jointer/table saw/planer for the face. Figured with all these pieces being the smallest, best to take advantage of that stock.
- I've got a sled, but it doesn't have a stop, so I set up a "meat slicer" with a couple of miter gauges and used the fence to cross-cut all of the shelves to a consistent size (not all the boxes are the same width due to stud spacing).
- Made 9 extra shelves for a total of 52.
And since it's a pic-heavy thread - sharing a freakin' awesome sunrise while on the way to work this week:
Next steps is either to stain adjustable shelves, or start finishing the face lumber.
Looks so good! And wow that sunset!
Looking good
Nice sunrise. Amarillo right? I'm from the area, I miss the sunrise/sunsets.
Nice sunrise. Amarillo right? I'm from the area, I miss the sunrise/sunsets.
Yep. Great sunrises and no people.
Tackled finishing the rest of the oak today. About 110 bf done and 2 50 gallon trash cans full of saw dust. I don't really use the jointer/planer often enough to want to find space for another dust collector, but I was close today. I've got one for the miter station.
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