Time for another question…we have an over the range microwave. Can I set the thing up on blocks and use it after they take down or do I just need to get a $100 something from Walmart? Only need for the remodel time. Thanks.

Blocks are fine. Nothing special or different than countertop ones. They just hang on the wall instead of gravity holding it in place. You'll most likely need thicker blocks in the front due to its angled underside.

Next question....Sherwin Williams Paint.

Our painter is a dad and his son. Not a a big group and has done work for friends of ours for years and the work is really good. He admits its hard to get the pain and has asked us to buy it if we can and just reduce it from what we owe him.

I am going to chat w/ Sherwin tomorrow but the one he wants is ProMar200 and it seems like maybe that is only sold to contractors / people with 'pro' accounts. I have his name / account to get his discount pricing but the problem is how can I locate the paint online. For "ProClassic" i can log into my 'regular' account and see where it is in stock....need that same visibility for ProMar200 so i can track it down. We don't need a ton...10 gallons...

Two things; ten gallons sounds like a lot of paint for your kitchen, even if you are painting the cabinets. The second is that yes, it seems paint is very hard to obtain. We have a painter scheduled to come out tomorrow and replace all of the wood siding, soffits and fascia on our house with Hardie plank/trim, then paint the house. When he came out to quote the job, we discussed paint and he said he used to go into Sherwin-Williams and tell them what he wanted; now he goes in and asks what they have in stock. I'm not sure what grade he's looking for, but hope they have the one he normally uses.

Thanks for that on sizing.

The guy said 8 gallons but we didn't want to run short. Maybe 8 is still built in with some wiggle room?

Founds some...not too difficult...little drive....i guess i can appreciate small pain teams getting frustrated not being able to drive to their local just to get what they need...

The contractor that did our remodel is coming next week to re-caulk. All the SW caulking they've used the last few months has been cracking. It's cracking where one of our cabinets meets a wall as well as a couple baseboards. SW blamed it on the weather, our contractor said they've used it for years and if it were simply the weather they'd have had problems every winter.

Just figured I'd throw that out there as may be worth looking into before making a trip if you're buying that at sw as well.

Edit: no issues with our sw cabinet, wall, or trim paint.

Plano, sorry for the late reply. We were busy with a pot of B-1's beans to go with some chicken and sausage on the grill. We finally finished dinner and the cleanup, and sat down for a few minutes.
I don't know how big your kitchen is, nor how much square footage you have with your cabinets, but I certainly wouldn't buy any more than what was recommended. I usually over-buy on paint and then have way too many containers of paint that takes up room in the garage.

I appreciate it. I googled a bit and estimated that we will need 6 to 6.5. I will pay for 1.5 extra gallons to ensure no issues but def not 10. I will keep a partial and worst case, with a $50K remodel, losing a $50 or $75 can of paint isn't a deal breaker.

I am not getting caulk but will keep an eye on what he uses. Any recommended brands?

planoaggie123 said:

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I am not getting caulk but will keep an eye on what he uses. Any recommended brands?

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There is huge performance difference between $2 caulk and $7 caulk

Don't let your painter skimp on the prep and caulking or it won't matter how high end of paint you put on it

I've tried them all but the best I've found and only one I use on my jobs since 2004 is this


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Big-Stretch-10-5-fl-oz-White-Paintable-Latex-Caulk/4411173




SW is still having a lot of supply chain issues. My go to is still pro mar 200 water based alkyd for cabinets, trim and doors but it is often difficult to find in the current environment. In a pinch you can substitute pro classic water based alkyd which is essentially the same thing just the retail version of the pro mar 200.


Depending on the number of cabinets and square feet if they are being sprayed inside too and 2 coats then most kitchens that I use take between 6-8 gallons. It's always better to have extra paint left over that is boxed in the beginning versus having to buy another gallon or so down the line in terms of matching and touch up

Awesome. Thank you. I will be sure to bring this up. I 100% don't mind paying $100 extra on supplies to get a better product.

Pro-Mar 200 is impossible to get right now.

We are in the final stages of our kitchen remodel - started at Thanksgiving - and paint (or lack thereof) is holding up completion. Really, any oil based eggshell paint can't be found right now.

I got 8 gallons secured....picking up this AM....ProMar 200 Interior Alkyd Egg Shell....i called a store and they searched all of the Dallas area....just a little hike for me but found it...honestly, there seems to be a decent little supply in the area but you just have to be willing to drive and you most likely wont find it in your local store just popping in...

Very good for you. Congrats on locking down the paint. I 100% agree you don't want to underbuy. If you have 1-1.5 gallons left over, Habitats for Humanity should be happy to get a donation.

SW off Abrams has a decent amount of 1 gallon cans for ProMar200 alkyd.

There was another store, I think Knox Henderson, that has 200+ gallons of ProClassic interior alkyd.

Fwiw regular pro mar 200 alkyd will yellow over time especially if a shade of white because it is a true solvent based oil product.


This is why I only use pro mar 200 water base alkyd as it will not yellow and cleans up with water versus thinner.

We are using oil as we are just refinishing current cabinets and they are stained. Was told by all contractors that bid the work they would use oil based in our situation. Our current cabinets are stained. We know it won't be a prefect white and we will see some grain etc but we are ok with that. Definitely appreciate any thoughts or suggestions.

What product are they priming the cabinets with ?

Not sure to be honest. He said he would get primer. Apparently that is easier to get as needed. Any recommendations or things to be weary of?

Plano, it is not so much which primer to use, it is the prep work that happens before application of the primer. The doors/cabinets are stained you said, so a lacquer or poly is the topcoat.

I am not a fan of the primers that say they can go straight over the clear coat. I believe that cleaning the surfaces needs to happen first (mineral spirits) then scuffing, a light sanding with 220 grit. Any paint product is a mechanical bond, meaning that you need surface area (scratches) for it to bond. Lacquer surfaces are usually pretty smooth and I would be hesitant to just put a primer over a lacquered/polyurethane surface without a good sanding.

After priming, a light sanding with 280 or so and two coats of an oil paint and I think you will have a nice product.

Appreciate it.

I need to find my notes but I am 95% sure the plan is mineral spirits, sand, prime, sand, paint....



Also...curious....is Sherwin Williams ProClassic worth the upgrade vs ProMar200? Is it a noticeable upgrade or should I go with what our painter recommends and is maybe more comfortable with?

I tend to buy the best paint. The extra $10-20 per gallon is negligible compared to the overall cost of materials of the project and the difference in the paints (After all these years I still don't understand how some paint companies have THAT many types of paint?!) Can't comment on SW (they do have some great other products that I use), I am a Ben Moore guy.

I believe you had said in a previous post how much paint you are buying? Why so much? Are they spraying on the finishes? (I may have missed a few threads if you explained already.)

Honestly great question re: volume....I am not sure how to judge quantity needed. We are painting the following using 2 coats:

1) Cabinets (including 2 sets in living room with 4 doors each)
2) Small-ish island (3 doors wide)
3) built in desk (roll-down cover style)
4) Breakfast nook
5) Book shelf

*I will try and get better pics over the next few days and post to help show*



re: paint quality...the guy at SW seemed to think ProClassic is definitely better so I may have wife reach out to painter and make sure he doesn't mind using it and we will eat the extra $20 per gallon....

Here are some pics to give a general sense of the scope of our painting project...can see most cabinets, island, kitchen nook, book shelf, desk etc...







a lot of the brown trim and even doors you see are already painted white...so that is excluded from the scope...

JP76 said:

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planoaggie123 said:

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Flooring is the worst possible kind probably.....hardwood

We will be putting down some sort of protective layer throughout the kitchen and all areas anyone might end up going....padding / paint / liquid protection....

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True 3/4 hardwood ? Or engineered hardwood?


You definitely need to put ram-board down


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ram-Board-Paper-3-ft-x-100-ft-Drop-Cloth/999909879?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-bng-_-PLA_PNT_133_TS-Sanding-Sundries-Surface-Buckets-_-999909879-_-Online-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&msclkid=e4894c6351ef1ab86a542d8329ee687d&gclid=e4894c6351ef1ab86a542d8329ee687d&gclsrc=3p.ds

Also you have to be very careful, some tapes will remove the clear from the wood when you pull it up down the road

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Just a toss-up that you may see this.....what kind of tape do you recommend to keep it in place, for stained hardwood?

From googling, seems like maybe yellow painter tape is the best bet but curious if you have other thoughts.

What about the backsplash? Sorry if I missed it. Be prepared to repair/replace after countertops are taken out. We've done a couple of kitchen remodels. The first time the backsplash was completely destroyed. The most recent time, the demo guys were pretty good and we only had to repair a small portion.

Good question. We are replacing backsplash. It is coming down as part of the counter demo.....I forgot to add that to my order list....

Some pictures of the progress to date. Fridge and oven carpentry work; counter demo; plumbing and electrical work thus far. For electric, we ran sub panel in adjacent laundry room behind the door so it won't be visible but also easily accessible.

Today the installers are coming to ensure everything is in good shape for appliance install (correct electric; correct build-in dimensions, etc).

The next steps in no real specific order:

1) Build-in supports for under-mount cast iron sinks (big and heavy so should be fun...hoping will get it right on round #1 but not super-optimistic)

2) Remove and replace pendant lighting (any DFW recs for this would be appreciated...we have a guy but he is charging nearly 2X what he did 2 years ago so looking around a bit)

3) Paint cabinets (starts Monday and should take 2 - 3 weeks)

4) Backsplash install

5) Counter install

6) Appliance install....fridge is now pushed out to August 2022....that is 11 months from order...i assume we will be pushed to Sept or Oct...just hoping to have it by Xmas at this point...its that bad....

Great progress!

Is a larger TV in the scope?

Great job so far. Hopefully the rest of the project goes smoothly. Do you have pictures of the cast iron sinks? I would love to see what they look like. I can't imagine what type of support needs to be built to support them as under-counter mount.

No plans for a bigger TV at the moment....that is 75"....from the island looking in the picture is enough to watch football, etc while hanging out.....even in the evenings sitting on the patio I can see (relatively well) football/baseball/whatever and just turn on the sound to the patio speakers.

We have too many other things to prioritize....COVID was a bit of a financial slam to us and we are "behind schedule" (the house is nice but it was/is a big fixer-upper) so the wife would squash most any further electronic upgrades

I will add pics once we get those done....I am hoping to have it done by next weekend....The supports are simply going to be 2X4s on each side as well as supports underneath (basically, a 't'). The sinks are over 100 pounds lol.

After we demoed the countertops, we realized we ordered too small of a sink and the build out would have been a big pain (and actually would have limited our under-sink space)...so went from 32" to 36" and that bad boy should arrive today....honestly, i hate to admit it but i am looking forward to having a large, single bin sink.