GCRanger said:
So I got some recommendations from others and online and figured I'd share here for others to benefit from but also to get feedback on the quotes I'm getting.
We don't want to do any blown in as we plan to do remodel work over the next couple years where ceiling drywall will possibly be replaced in different spots, water lines rerun, electrical re-run/added, air ducts re-routed, etc. Cost more for spray foam but less headache and more efficient use of time for future work.
2112 sqft house + 53sqft garage, 6/12 pitch, ~2870sqft roof decking & gables.
Geo-Insulation
- Very courteous, prompt, and detailed explanations.
- Spray Foam (open cell) 3" (R14) on attic walls/gable ends, and 5.5" (R21) on roof decking: $4718
or
- 8" Loose fill fiberglass (R38 equivalent) AND radiant barrier spray (Henry liquid spray) on roof decking: $3070
- Sealing attic (top plates, holes for wiring, fixtures, etc.) - $170. We will wait to do this for the same reasons above for not doing the blown in insulation.
- Insulation removal: $2,000. This seems very high especially given that there is only about an inch or two of old black blown in insulation left
So I just came across your post, I don't have any recommendations for you, but I run an insulation company in Arizona.
What they have quotes you, looks pretty good, but there are a few areas that don't make a lot of sense or add up to me.
Your open cell foam in the walls and roof decking: He' given 2 different R-Values per inch with the same material. In your walls he's telling you you're going to get an R 4.6/Inch and in your deck an R 3.8/inch.
The open cell we spray runs approximately R 3.5/ inch, so you're decking estimate is pretty close.
I don't know of any loose fill fiberglass blow insulation that you can achieve an R 38 with 8 inches. I use the top of the line material from Owens Corning, and to achieve an R 38 take 13.5 inches.
If you're wanting a true R38 on the roof deck, have them give you a quote for Closed Cell Foam. My brand runs at R7/inch, and we acheive a R38 with 5.5 inches.
With the closed cell foam, as opposed to open cell, after 2 inches you have a vapor barrier, and after 3 inches you also have a moisture barrier. It will also add up to 30% sheer strength to the deck itself.
His quote for the removal is really high, especially if they have a suck out machine. If they have to do it by hand, then it becomes a real pia for the workers.
I haven't looked at what codes are in your area. I can tell you where I work, in the White Mountain of AZ between 4 different counties, and several different Indian Reservations, our codes range anywhere from R13 in 2x4 walls, R 19 in 2x6 exterior walls. Some counties require an R30 in the attic, others a R38. The Navajo Reservation requires an R49.
Coconnino County requires an R 30 in all crawl spaces with a vapor barrier.
If you've got any more questions, or if I can help at all, shoot me an email:
crocker05 at yahoo
