Running thread of pre-emergent questions and answers. When answering questions or adding advice please consider mentioning the following.

• Where are you located?
• What type of grass do you have?
• What did you apply, how did you apply it, where did you acquire it?
• Did you have a preexisting weed problem?
• Which weeds were/are the problem and how did you remedy the issue?

There are two main resources that I have seen mentioned here. For the DFW and North Texas there is Neil Sperry.



http://neilsperry.com/2013/01/what-is-the-right-time-for-preemergents/

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Spring application (primarily for crabgrass and grassburs): March 5 - 15. Halts or Dimension.

Second spring application (due to long growing season and possibility that crabgrass and grassburs could still germinate): June 5 - 15. There is no point in making this application if you did not make the first one. Halts or Dimension.

Fall application (primarily for cool-season grassy weeds such as annual bluegrass, rescuegrass and rye): September 1 - 10. Halts or Dimension.

Fall application (primarily for broadleafed weeds such as henbit, dandelions, clover and chickweed): September 1 - 10. Gallery. This treatment can be made the same day as the application for grassy weed prevention, but do them sequentially. Do not try to mix granules in your spreader.

Any time you intend to apply pre-emergent weedkillers and fertilizers at roughly the same time, apply the fertilizer first. Water it into the soil deeply. Wait a couple of days, then apply the pre-emergent granules and water lightly.

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For those down in Houston, Randy Lemmon has a popular schedule.



http://www.randylemmon.com/lawns/gardenline-broadleaf.html <--- General tips link
http://www.randylemmon.com/lawns/fertilize.html <--- Pre emergent schedule link
http://www.randylemmon.com/pdf/randysfertilizationschedule.pdf <--- PDF of all schedules

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Late October-Early November - Use two (2) different pre-emergent herbicides, to prevent the weeds that we experience in February and March. First is a pre-emergent with Portrait or Gallery for broadleaf weeds like clover. Second, use a pre-emergent with Amaze, Betasan, Balan or Treflan for grassy weeds like poa anna or annual bluegrass. There is also Barricade, Dimension or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

February-March - Use the pre-emergent controls for grassy weeds again, to prevent such weeds as Crabgrass, Goosegrass and Dallisgrass from popping up late in the spring and summer. Again, use the grassy pre-emergent like Amaze, Betasan, Balan or Treflan. There is also Barricade, Dimension or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

May-Early June - One more application of a grassy pre-emergent like Amaze, Betasan, Balan, or Treflan will keep fall weeds from invading from August on. There is also Barricade, Dimension-based or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

WARNING: Some people will be tempted to use a weed-and-feed at this time, but if you've been following the GardenLine herbicide schedule, there should never be a need. However, spot weed-and-feed treatments are recommended for those with turf-only landscapes or landscapes that have been established for many years. Most weed-and-feeds contain Atrizine which burns roots of young trees and shrubs.

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We bought last year and I missed the fall and spring applications so I wanted to make sure I was prepared for the upcoming pre-emergent application this fall.

DFW area, St Augustine and Bermuda areas. Fighting sedge, clover and all the other normal weeds. Did a late spring application of Spectracide with Atrazine and Orthos's 2-4 D for each area of grass. Did really well with knocking everything out. Probably doing another application shortly plus Sledgehammer.

So the Dimensions pre-emergent, is that a stand along chemical or a fertilizer like Halts from Scotts? Something you can buy off the shelf or only online? I saw Dow's original Dimensions for $150 a half gallon, probably only using an ounce or two an application.

What do you use, where are you, and where did you acquire it?

What do you use, where are you, and where did you acquire it?

http://neilsperry.com/2016/08/fall-pre-emergent-time-is-here/

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You have the chance in the next 10 days to do something that will pay dividends clear into late spring. Make your applications of pre-emergent herbicides before September 7. Winter weeds are set to start sprouting. It's better to be a week too early with the preventive treatment than one day too late.

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What type of preemergent should I use, or should I just kill it all?

I'm in Montana (I would have to put it down in October or November likely). My grass is mostly weeds. I have a pretty existing problem with all weeds (no, seriously).

I saw someone's Facebook post and it reminded me it's almost time for pre emergents.

I'm in dfw with Bermuda, and just have a few weeds throughout. I plan to kickoff football season by spreading halt and gallery. Please let me know me know if that's not a good idea

Put my fertilizer out yesterday per Sperry & will put out the Halts tomorrow.

Where do you get "gallery" in the DFW (carrollton) area and specifically what product and how much should it cost? For something so highly recommended it sure seems harder than it should be to get an answer.

Thanks

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Where do you get "gallery" in the DFW (carrollton) area and specifically what product and how much should it cost? For something so highly recommended it sure seems harder than it should be to get an answer.

Thanks

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SiteOne Landscape Supply (formerly John Deere Landscapes)

https://www.siteone.com/

They have several locations in DFW and carry Gallery. Go to their website to find the location nearest to you and give them a call.

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Where do you get "gallery" in the DFW (carrollton) area and specifically what product and how much should it cost? For something so highly recommended it sure seems harder than it should be to get an answer.

Thanks

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Lewisville TX #681
521 Huffines Blvd
Lewisville, TX 75056-9552
Phone: (972) 939-1144

Lewisville TX #205
701 S Stemmons Fwy Ste 50
Lewisville, TX 75067-4566
Phone: (972) 434-0408

Dallas TX #201
10588 Shady Trl
Dallas, TX 75220-2505
Phone: (214) 352-7755

Dallas TX #199
13510 Floyd Cir
Dallas, TX 75243-1402
Phone: (972) 231-0535

Your 4 closest locations of SiteOne Landscape Supply.

Thanks. I will track them down.

I put out some Green Light "Amaze Grass and Weed Preventer" (Pre Emergent) about 4 weeks ago (Aug 1) and fertilized the same day. I also used Scott's lawn food for Southern Lawns. The Amaze product was reccommended by Milbegers in San Antonio to help with the sticker burr problem I was having. Should I put any more pre emergent / fertilizer out at this time?

The Amaze seemed to take care of the sticker burrs. I'm sure all the recent rain helped thicken up the grass to help choke them out as well.

I live in Fredericksburg TX. I have bermuda grass. However, I am in the process of re-seeding my mostly patchy yard. We moved in last year. The PO didn't left largely weeds and not much grass for me to work with.

Stuff is a little pricey, huh...

I went to both SiteOne Lewisville locations today. They do not carry Gallery. The guy at the first location never even heard of Gallery. He made a few calls and finally said they had a single 1lb container at the Prosper location and it was $235. The guy at the second location said they do not carry it because it is so expensive that their customers won't pay for it. He did sell me a 50lb bag of LESCO Dimension 0.21% 0-0-7 and said it would do what I need. About $40 with tax. I guess for this year I will try this and see what happens.

I can't even find a link to the product I just bought. This pre-emergent business is starting to remind me of trying to find accurate information on replacement windows. There is no clear, precise source of reliable info you can put into practice and actually have success. It should not be this hard/confusing.

This is mainly for the Bermuda folks, but here's a pretty good walk-through on weed prevention for Bermuda grass. The guy is based in DFW and provides specific links to the products he uses.

The Bermuda Triangle

Looking at his other posts on the site, his yard is quite nice. So I'd say it's a good place to start and see what you need to add/change based off his recommendation.

Thanks. That's what I was hoping to find. I will probably go ahead and use up what I have and if it does not succeed then try and determine how to move on to this program and see what happens.

This is the first year I am getting involved with my St Augustine. Below are the products I plan to use over the next year:

Pre-Emergent
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/prodiamine-65-wdg-generic-barricade-p-2495.html

Fertilizer: shop around for milorganite...seems walmart is showing $21 for the bag now. When i purchased it was $6 per bag
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Milorganite-Organic-Nitrogen-All-Purpose-Long-Lasting-Fertilizer-36-lbs/16794889

Fungicide:
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/eagle-20ew-specialty-fungicide-p-1359.html

Pesticide: I have a bad case of the chinch bugs and been trying to take care of them with Demon WP and I think it has worked on the adults but the eggs seem to keep hatching so I am going with granules so it stays in the soil longer without second/third applications
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/bifen-granules-p-227.html

Rest of lawn:


Weed Control:
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Atrazine-Augustine-Killer/dp/B007259YS0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472516695&sr=8-2&keywords=atrazine

I'm having Bermuda sod laid this Wednesday (Hill Country). Neil says don't apply pre-emergant to a lawn less than 4 months old. Other than watering like crazy what other steps should I take? any feterlizer?

when should be the first time to mow?

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I'm having Bermuda sod laid this Wednesday (Hill Country). Neil says don't apply pre-emergant to a lawn less than 4 months old. Other than watering like crazy what other steps should I take? any feterlizer?

when should be the first time to mow?

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I'd wait until about a month after it's down to fertilize. But get a high count (39-0-0) with slow release nitrogen and spread it at the beginning of October. At this point, you just want the grass to really take root and be settled before it goes dormant in the cold weather.

Bermuda grows best at under 2", but you may have to let it grow a little longer until the sod is really attached to the soil. If you grab a piece of sod and can pull it up easily, it's not rooted into the ground yet and you probably shouldn't be mowing.

Once you can start mowing, don't cut more than 1/3 of the length of the blade off at one time. You may have to mow, wait 2 days, mow again, wait 2 days to get it below 2"...but once you get below 2", you'll see it really take off.

I don't know what your soil is like, but my grass always looked a little yellowish brown even with regular watering until I put milorganite on it. I think the iron in there helped get me over the hump and really green up the yard. Each bag is designed to cover 2500 sq ft, so do the math on how much yard you have to figure out how much to put down. I put it down at the same time as my fertlizer and within about a week I saw a huge difference!

Home Depot sells the same. $21+tax for 50 lb bag. Saw it today.

I'm in San Antonio with st augustine. How long should I wait between putting down fertilizer and pre emergent?

Anyone know where to buy Gallery or Halt or Dimension in the Round Rock area?

http://neilsperry.com/2013/01/what-is-the-right-time-for-preemergents/
This gives a difficult to understand (at first) rule of thumb.

Dallas with Bermuda in the front and St Augustine in the back.

Put out my 2,4D two days ago and Spectracide Atrazine in the back (both from Home Depot).



This morning did my Fertilome with Gallery (Bruce Miller Nursery $22/2000sqft)



Also put out Bonide with Dimension (Brumley Gardens $25/5000sqft)


Plan on putting out some Image for the nutsedge on Monday.

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Dallas with Bermuda in the front and St Augustine in the back.

Put out my 2,4D two days ago and Spectracide Atrazine in the back (both from Home Depot).



This morning did my Fertilome with Gallery (Bruce Miller Nursery $22/2000sqft)



Also put out Bonide with Dimension (Brumley Gardens $25/5000sqft)


Plan on putting out some Image for the nutsedge on Monday.

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I have a similar yard in DFW - bermuda in the front and St. Augustine in the back. I used some of the same stuff, and wanted to point out that Strong's Nursery on 35 in Carrolton has everything on your list, at competitive prices.

I think I may have overdosed 2,4 d on a section - my wife didn't realize that I had a more concentrated refill bottle, and didn't water it down before refilling the waterhose sprayer.

Would Scotts Halts and Green Light Amaze be fine to use together and have me covered?

I am in College Station with St. Augustine.

Gallery is tough to find. Took some time to find fertilome with gallery online, could not find it locally in Houston. You can get some concentrate for like $140 online

Any advice on inheriting a somewhat neglected lawn in late OCT is appreciated.

We are closing on a house in North Dallas in mid-late October. The bermuda yard already has a decent amount of crabgrass and other weeds so I doubt current owner put out pre-emergent. Would it be worth putting pre emergent out this late? I thought about putting out the Bonides Crabgrass Plus that also kills existing weeds (it has Quinclorac, Dithiopyr, Dicamba and 2,4-D)

Either way come spring i have a feeling I will be walking the yard many nights with a beer in hand and pulling weeds.

bunlundun said:

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Any advice on inheriting a somewhat neglected lawn in late OCT is appreciated.

We are closing on a house in North Dallas in mid-late October. The bermuda yard already has a decent amount of crabgrass and other weeds so I doubt current owner put out pre-emergent. Would it be worth putting pre emergent out this late? I thought about putting out the Bonides Crabgrass Plus that also kills existing weeds (it has Quinclorac, Dithiopyr, Dicamba and 2,4-D)

Either way come spring i have a feeling I will be walking the yard many nights with a beer in hand and pulling weeds.

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Crabgrass will die off when it gets cold. Preemergent this fall will knock out the broadleaf bull**** thats coming. Preemergent in the spring will keep crabgrass from coming back.

Bumpity bump bump

To update my above post. The house we purchased last OCT was primarily over run with Dallisgrass, not crabgrass like I had originally thought. Not fun at all. I killed off about a 400sqft portion that was Dallisgrass only, and spot treated the rest of the yard. We have continued to dig up surviving clumps over the winter. Almost as bothersome as the grass itself is the uneven surface left over from digging it up.

Question: Should I fill holes from digging with sand or some type of topsoil (most are 3inches deep). I would really like to do some grade work/leveling for the kiddos sake, but see little reason knowing we might be battling Dallisgrass for another year or so.

bunlundun said:

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To update my above post. The house we purchased last OCT was primarily over run with Dallisgrass, not crabgrass like I had originally thought. Not fun at all. I killed off about a 400sqft portion that was Dallisgrass only, and spot treated the rest of the yard. We have continued to dig up surviving clumps over the winter. Almost as bothersome as the grass itself is the uneven surface left over from digging it up.

Question: Should I fill holes from digging with sand or some type of topsoil (most are 3inches deep). I would really like to do some grade work/leveling for the kiddos sake, but see little reason knowing we might be battling Dallisgrass for another year or so.

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IF the dallisgrass is still dominant you should look at the KILL TILL AND FILL method ( the NUKE option). D-grass is a monster that is very hard to control. Left untreated for years it will take over a yard and leave you with large bare spots IF you are able to kill it.
At some point it is easier and even cheaper to use the NUKE option.

I might as well update on progress as well.

In my front yard I had the exact same situation. I inherited a complete yard of Dallisgrass. Bermuda was pretty good in a few spots but generally just a giant weed patch that was hard as rock. In 2015 I ordered 3 yards of "top dressing" delivered by city of plano and spread it pretty thick. Other than pulling a few D-grass each time I went to the mail box I did not try and do much else that year. Things improved slightly but still dominated by D-grass and weeds of all kinds where the D-grass was not present.

In 2016 I spent March - July solving major drainage issues with a huge dry stream bed, stone patio, large flower bed project. This eliminated grass in about 1/3 of the front yard. After some time off I posted here in August since I was finally ready to take the remaining lawn seriously. I decided to follow the Burmuda Triangle plan and ordered the Celcius and Certainty products exactly as recommended. I applied per labels. I had great results and all weeds were gone except D-grass, and even the D-grass was dramatically knocked back. By fall my front lawn was looking pretty good but not perfect. I applied the LESCO Dimension I paid $40 bucks for. As of today I have weeds everywhere so I am giving up on the drop spreader Pre-I type products and order the Prodiamine65 which should arrive any day. I will put it down when it gets here.

In the back yard I had the same problems except no D-grass. Biggest issue was nutsedge. The Certainty wipped it out completely in one application. 2-3 weeks later the nutsedge was gone. Today may back yard is basically beautiful dormant Bermuda with almost no winter weeds showing.

So, I am going to keep following the Burmuda Triangle and will report back this summer. I am also going to have a local guy that posts on Nextdoor do core aeration this spring.