Jack Boyett said:

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Is there anybody out there still doing 3000 mile oil changes because "cheap insurance"?

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I change at 7,000 miles or when the computer says it's time, if the vehicle has the functionality. If I get teleported to Western Auto and have to choose between Sinclair and Gulf motor oil, then I will probably go back to 3,000 mile changes.

Most dealers "works" coupon is 59.95 to 64.95.

I'm still DIY-ing.

Jack Boyett said:

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Is there anybody out there still doing 3000 mile oil changes because "cheap insurance"?

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Only on my tractor!

I can't get my car on ramps and you have to remove the skid plate to get to the oil filter so it's well worth It to have my company pay for the $160 oil changes.

21 F250 6.7
Local oil change company in my town
Oil Change is around $120 and if I bring my fuel filters it is a total of $145.00 out the door. They also replace the oil plug every other time.
In and out in less than 15 minutes. Great service and never try to add anything on.

Jack Boyett said:

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Is there anybody out there still doing 3000 mile oil changes because "cheap insurance"?

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Well does it count if I change it before every track weekend and the oil never sees 1000 miles? If I was ever forced to daily this car, (EVO X) I would do 3000 miles because of the turbo. Gets Motul Excess 5W40.

All my NA vehicles go 5000 miles between Mobil-1 changes. But I absolutely would change any boosted vehicle at 3000 and I wouldn't even call that cheap insurance.

Sweet Kitten Feet said:

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Ag for Life said:

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I just did the math and my 2015 5.0 is $51.49 per oil change. Basically 3 yourself vs 1 for the quick lube guys.

I find shade tree mechanic work therapeutic though, so there's a benefit there as well. Also gives me a chance to inspect other things while I'm waiting on the oil to drain.

Also, I know exactly what products are used so I don't get scammed and if I screw up, it's on me.

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My problem is my driveway is inclined and I have a really small garage. Can't fit my truck in there. ANd disposing of the old oil just became a hassle. But jeez, I might have to go back now.

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Not sure if I'm missing something, but if the auto parts store is a hassle or they're charging you, most small airports have an unlocked oil drum you can put your used oil in.

Lifetime 75 dollar changes for my 2012 f350 from the dealership. Wonder how long they will keep honoring it to be honest.

Pinochet said:

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Sweet Kitten Feet said:

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Ag for Life said:

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I just did the math and my 2015 5.0 is $51.49 per oil change. Basically 3 yourself vs 1 for the quick lube guys.

I find shade tree mechanic work therapeutic though, so there's a benefit there as well. Also gives me a chance to inspect other things while I'm waiting on the oil to drain.

Also, I know exactly what products are used so I don't get scammed and if I screw up, it's on me.

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My problem is my driveway is inclined and I have a really small garage. Can't fit my truck in there. ANd disposing of the old oil just became a hassle. But jeez, I might have to go back now.

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Not sure if I'm missing something, but if the auto parts store is a hassle or they're charging you, most small airports have an unlocked oil drum you can put your used oil in.

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City of College station used to take oil and filters. Just drive up and drop off.

I took my Expy and F250 to my local small town Ford dealership for oil changes right up to 90k miles in each of them. Conventional oil change started at $55 per and then gradually increased to $85 per the last time I brought them in. I went back to performing the service myself and synthetic motor craft oil and filter is roughly $48 per oil change now.

I always serviced my son's Tundra with the exception of an oil change at our local quick lube due to a packed schedule. The $110 oil change made me plan better the next time around.

One other point that I know most everyone is aware of; don't buy filters and oil form O'Reilly or AutoZone. Their price markups are insanely high when compared to Walmart.

Jack Boyett said:

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Is there anybody out there still doing 3000 mile oil changes because "cheap insurance"?

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I might do this on my KLR 650 that I bought a few months ago. Every 5k for the Tacoma and every 10k for the Prius.

The filter is a pain in the ass on my ram 5.7

Once the warranty is up I will get the oil filter relocation kit

AgsWin2011 said:

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When we lived in College Station a few years ago I would take our vehicles to CS Ford fast lane for my F150 boost and my wife's expedition (at the time). It was called "the works" and included oil/filter change, tire rotation, top off fluids, and battery diagnostic. It was about $60 out the door.

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It's still that way.

Jack Boyett said:

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Is there anybody out there still doing 3000 mile oil changes because "cheap insurance"?

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I do on my classic cars, but I take the moderns in when the computer tells me to.

YouBet said:

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Dr. Doctor said:

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Look into getting an oil extractor. My pacifica says to remove oil that way (through the dip stick) and the filter is top located. So if I'm good, I can do it all with a single latex glove and not get dirty.

Just need an air compressor to run the extractor. Bought the one from Harbor Freight. Literally a steel drum with tubes. Works better if you have a bigger-than-pancake compressor. About 2.8 CFM @ 90psig or so rating.

Takes about 30 minutes or so. Since compressor is out, can check tires as well once done.

~egon

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Im more surprised someone has a running Pacifica than I am the cost of these oil changes.

Impressive!

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Thanks for the jinx! Driving to work i got a cylinder #4 misfire. If things are bad, it's all your fault.

~egon

Dr. Doctor said:

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YouBet said:

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Dr. Doctor said:

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Look into getting an oil extractor. My pacifica says to remove oil that way (through the dip stick) and the filter is top located. So if I'm good, I can do it all with a single latex glove and not get dirty.

Just need an air compressor to run the extractor. Bought the one from Harbor Freight. Literally a steel drum with tubes. Works better if you have a bigger-than-pancake compressor. About 2.8 CFM @ 90psig or so rating.

Takes about 30 minutes or so. Since compressor is out, can check tires as well once done.

~egon

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Im more surprised someone has a running Pacifica than I am the cost of these oil changes.

Impressive!

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Thanks for the jinx! Driving to work i got a cylinder #4 misfire. If things are bad, it's all your fault.

~egon

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My apologies!

Jack Boyett said:

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Is there anybody out there still doing 3000 mile oil changes because "cheap insurance"?

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I do every 6-7k with synthetic. But I'm changing the oil in my wife's van at 5k this weekend because she didn't tell me she had gone almost 1500 miles over last time and the oil was dirty dirty when I changed it. I guess it's partially my fault as well for not checking the mileage.

aTm2004 said:

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Jack Boyett said:

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Is there anybody out there still doing 3000 mile oil changes because "cheap insurance"?

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I do every 6-7k with synthetic. But I'm changing the oil in my wife's van at 5k this weekend because she didn't tell me she had gone almost 1500 miles over last time and the oil was dirty dirty when I changed it. I guess it's partially my fault as well for not checking the mileage.

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Yep, with the wife involved, it's always your fault.

When my wife got lubed up by Jiffy Lube to the tune of $150 for an oil change and a "air filter" replacement early in our marriage, it was definitely my fault, despite explicit instructions to go to a particular business she didn't go to.

Bad injector. Worked from home and had ordered some parts the night before. Got it changed out and back on the road.

So you're good for now.

~egon

Ag for Life said:

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Looks like the Raptor R 5.2 V8 takes 11.5 qts of 5W50 oil

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Yeah, that was a humble brag there.

Random question, and not to derail, but for those of you who change your own oil, do you ever "flush" with a fresh quart after it's drained to clear any remaining dirty oil?

I never have, on any machine, and was just wondering if it made any difference over the long run of the engine? I'm at about 270k miles on my truck and have never done it and it seems like it isn't something of concern. Although with my truck burning a little more oil as it gets up in mileage, I'm thinking "flushing" it to clean out extra gunk and buildup wouldn't hurt.

civilized05 said:

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Random question, and not to derail, but for those of you who change your own oil, do you ever "flush" with a fresh quart after it's drained to clear any remaining dirty oil?

I never have, on any machine, and was just wondering if it made any difference over the long run of the engine? I'm at about 270k miles on my truck and have never done it and it seems like it isn't something of concern. Although with my truck burning a little more oil as it gets up in mileage, I'm thinking "flushing" it to clean out extra gunk and buildup wouldn't hurt.

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actually, that's exactly how you hurt old mechanical stuff. just say no.

I never have, and given you have 270k miles on your truck and haven't, I'd say it isn't needed.

civilized05 said:

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Random question, and not to derail, but for those of you who change your own oil, do you ever "flush" with a fresh quart after it's drained to clear any remaining dirty oil?

I never have, on any machine, and was just wondering if it made any difference over the long run of the engine? I'm at about 270k miles on my truck and have never done it and it seems like it isn't something of concern. Although with my truck burning a little more oil as it gets up in mileage, I'm thinking "flushing" it to clean out extra gunk and buildup wouldn't hurt.

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You've built up a quarter of a million miles on that engine, and apparently without issue.

Don't change now. Just check it more frequently and top it off as needed.

My old 2004 GM 5.3 would burn almost a half quart every 1000 miles. I'd top it off and keep going.

That's more or less what I figured. No reason to mess with it if it's gone this long.

Just something I thought about as I was patiently waiting for the oil to drain last time I changed it.

I paid $125 for an oil change on my 2019 Silverado (5.3 gas V8) at a 15min oil change place.

Then I realized the local Chevy dealer charges $75 and rotates the tires, to boot. And they often have coupons. If they're full, the same owner has a Buick/GM dealership next door, and their service dept will do the same.

I do my own, fumoto drain with the nipple on each vehicle, hook rubber hose to container and drain. Then a zip lock around the filter for minimal mess, Valve synthetic and napa gold filters for each, takes 10 mins in my driveway.

big ben said:

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I do my own, fumoto drain with the nipple on each vehicle, hook rubber hose to container and drain. Then a zip lock around the filter for minimal mess, Valve synthetic and napa gold filters for each, takes 10 mins in my driveway.

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Leaves you more time for toolbox shopping!

TxAg20 said:

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big ben said:

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I do my own, fumoto drain with the nipple on each vehicle, hook rubber hose to container and drain. Then a zip lock around the filter for minimal mess, Valve synthetic and napa gold filters for each, takes 10 mins in my driveway.

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Leaves you more time for toolbox shopping!

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I know I'm missing a joke in here somewhere, but toolbox shopping is a fulfilling and worthwhile hobby. Can you really go into Lowes, Home Depot, or Harbor Freight and not go over to the toolboxes to look at them and spend 5 minutes talking yourself out of upgrading because that one has 2 more USB ports than yours?

joke





you

https://texags.com/forums/34/topics/1491350

Paid $50 for 6-quarts of full synthetic and an OEM filter yesterday. DIY in the driveway tomorrow for free in 10 minutes.

TxAg20 said:

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https://texags.com/forums/34/topics/1491350

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Oh yeah. I was thinking a toolbox for the garage. Not a truck.