I don't even need a truck right now and I would have bought that from him for more than the Stealership sold it for.
First Gen Tundra 4x4 purchase/build
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Last: 9 mo ago by water turkey
That's crazy!!! I bet they get what they are asking for it at the stealership. Still not a terrible deal 10k honestlycledus6150 said:
Unfourtunately over the christmas break my boss decided to trade in his 2001 tundra 4x4 that only had 125k on it and had no real issues. The dealership stole it for 4500, i wish he would have told me about it before he traded it in!
Right!
I always enjoy reading build threads. You get to see things get fixed in seconds with no problems. Today I gave the door lock actuators a run. Ended up snapping a plastic rod clip for the door handle. I had it off the rod, but in the middle of fighting the assembly to get to the screw on the backside I think it slipped back on it and snap a lapped:
Luckily a bus dropped off a helper for the passenger side door card
Looks like the original actuators were still in it. I'll keep these as there is a way to replace the small motors inside and make them like new. That way I'll have spares on hand if the new ones don't last.
Disconnected the battery and decided I better add some high level security for the drivers door handle until I get some new plastic clips
Looks like the original actuators were still in it. I'll keep these as there is a way to replace the small motors inside and make them like new. That way I'll have spares on hand if the new ones don't last.
Disconnected the battery and decided I better add some high level security for the drivers door handle until I get some new plastic clips
The day was not lost though, I was able to place some backer rod between the window and dash to try and stop a rattle. Would have taken it for a drive to test it out, but didn't want to pull a Walter Sobchak and go flying out the door at speed.
GIG 'EM
The 1st gen Tundras were extremely overbuilt. Toyota wanted to make damn sure when they entered the heavy duty market their truck would hold up with zero doubt as to its capability.
Good find if you can get it
Good find if you can get it
They're both Toyotas but it's funny to see how similar Toyota's designs were between your truck and my 00 Celica.
Also yes, those door lock actuators do suck! The motor is replaceable but there's something attached to the output shaft that I've never been able to transfer from an old motor to a new one. Without it they're useless.
edit: It's the brushes on the motor that wear out so if you wanted to get really crafty you could just remove and replace those by cannibalizing a good set of brushes from a new motor. The other problem I've run into from opening up the power door lock actuators is that the assembly is glued together. There's probably a better way of putting them together to make them more serviceable in the future but I haven't come up with one yet.
Also yes, those door lock actuators do suck! The motor is replaceable but there's something attached to the output shaft that I've never been able to transfer from an old motor to a new one. Without it they're useless.
edit: It's the brushes on the motor that wear out so if you wanted to get really crafty you could just remove and replace those by cannibalizing a good set of brushes from a new motor. The other problem I've run into from opening up the power door lock actuators is that the assembly is glued together. There's probably a better way of putting them together to make them more serviceable in the future but I haven't come up with one yet.
Looks like someone snapped up that Tundra in Abilene
Yup, I saw that. I looked into it some, only problem I had with it was it did not have power windows or locks. Some might see that as an advantage though. I have a truck to pickup in midland towards the end of the month and was going to offer them something a bit lower if it was still available around that time.maroon barchetta said:
Looks like someone snapped up that Tundra in Abilene
GIG 'EM
I talked to my son about it to replace what he drives which is still functional but has much higher mileage. H
He was interested. Would take some time to make the trek to Abilene but would have been worth it
That boss is not good with financial decisions.
He was interested. Would take some time to make the trek to Abilene but would have been worth it
That boss is not good with financial decisions.
Cool one on bat right now: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2002-toyota-tundra-10/
GIG 'EM
8000 miles??? That's it?
Hammered at just under $40k!!MTTANK said:
Cool one on bat right now: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2002-toyota-tundra-10/
GIG 'EM
Good grief. That's a lot for a mostly brand-new 20 year-old truck, if that's a thing. And yet still cheaper than a new Tundra.
Dang, y'all are making me want to switch from my first gen Tacoma to a first gen tundra. I guess I'll start looking haha
Changed out the gas cap the other day. I noticed the old one did not make a sound when I took it off at the gas station. Next fill up with the new one you could hear the pressure release when I opened it.
GIG 'EM
Just finished rebuilding the front end, suspension, and steering on the Tundra. I went with a 3/4 inch driver side, and 1/2 passenger side top hat spacer to make the rake not so drastic and fix the notorious Toyota lean. If I were building this for myself, I would have gone Bilstein 5100's to lift it. For my Dad, I decided on the softer riding KYB's that should be closer to stock.
So here is a list of the parts I used for my front end/steering rebuild:
KYB front stuts: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=503804&cc=1357938&pt=7584&jsn=437
KYB rear shocks: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=503697&cc=1357938&pt=7556&jsn=418
3/4 inch top hat spacer on drivers, 1/2 inch on passenger side: https://wheelersoffroad.com/shopbyv...95-tacoma-96-4runner-99-06-tundra-07-fjc.html
Longer top hat studs: https://wheelersoffroad.com/shopbyv...d-length-top-plate-stud-set-2-bu-bu30000.html
OEM Toyota upper and lower ball joints
JUNK-Moog end links: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1832184&cc=1357938&pt=7580&jsn=466
OEM Toyota steering rack and bushing
OEM Toyota outer Tie rods
PS return hose: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7659224&cc=1357938&pt=7324&jsn=485
PS res to pump hose: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10039492&cc=1357938&pt=7323&jsn=491
Axle kit- I planned on rebooting the originals, but in Aggie form I ordered one kit and didn't realize it was only for one side. Had to call an audible and just put some brand new cardone's in for about $50 each. I will keep the original's and rebuild them when the time comes.
I planned on having the PS high pressure line rebuilt locally, but it looked to be in good condition and won't be hard to get to if it ever needs done.
So here is a list of the parts I used for my front end/steering rebuild:
KYB front stuts: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=503804&cc=1357938&pt=7584&jsn=437
KYB rear shocks: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=503697&cc=1357938&pt=7556&jsn=418
3/4 inch top hat spacer on drivers, 1/2 inch on passenger side: https://wheelersoffroad.com/shopbyv...95-tacoma-96-4runner-99-06-tundra-07-fjc.html
Longer top hat studs: https://wheelersoffroad.com/shopbyv...d-length-top-plate-stud-set-2-bu-bu30000.html
OEM Toyota upper and lower ball joints
JUNK-
OEM Toyota steering rack and bushing
OEM Toyota outer Tie rods
PS return hose: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7659224&cc=1357938&pt=7324&jsn=485
PS res to pump hose: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10039492&cc=1357938&pt=7323&jsn=491
Axle kit- I planned on rebooting the originals, but in Aggie form I ordered one kit and didn't realize it was only for one side. Had to call an audible and just put some brand new cardone's in for about $50 each. I will keep the original's and rebuild them when the time comes.
I planned on having the PS high pressure line rebuilt locally, but it looked to be in good condition and won't be hard to get to if it ever needs done.
GIG 'EM
Some tips on the job:
-Soak everything in kroil or pb blaster a week ahead of time, especially the steering intermediate shaft
-Buy new top hat studs even if you don't plan on using a spacer. About half of them broke while removing:
Do not buy the cheap press kit off eBay for Honda's, it doesn't work. Either fight a free rental or buy the expensive one.
Remove the entire spindle to press the upper ball joints in and out. I used a vise as well as the press. Be sure to remove the Snap ring before trying to press it out:
-The steering shaft only fits on the rack splines one way, the flat part goes into the expandable joint part of the shaft.
-The funny looking nut facing down on the steering rack is welded on, do not hit it with an impact. Ask me how i know.
-Soak everything in kroil or pb blaster a week ahead of time, especially the steering intermediate shaft
-Buy new top hat studs even if you don't plan on using a spacer. About half of them broke while removing:
Do not buy the cheap press kit off eBay for Honda's, it doesn't work. Either fight a free rental or buy the expensive one.
Remove the entire spindle to press the upper ball joints in and out. I used a vise as well as the press. Be sure to remove the Snap ring before trying to press it out:
-The steering shaft only fits on the rack splines one way, the flat part goes into the expandable joint part of the shaft.
-The funny looking nut facing down on the steering rack is welded on, do not hit it with an impact. Ask me how i know.
GIG 'EM
Some in progress pictures:
Lucky to have a good friend with all kinds of cool equipment. He was able to make some parts with some pipe and the lathe to get the ball joints pressed in. We were roommates in college and he always wore flip flops when we worked on stuff. Welding or anything. You can see in the picture some things don't change!
For over 20 years old and with 150k miles on them, the shocks were still functioning and surprisingly good condition. Bushings did not even look bad:
Lucky to have a good friend with all kinds of cool equipment. He was able to make some parts with some pipe and the lathe to get the ball joints pressed in. We were roommates in college and he always wore flip flops when we worked on stuff. Welding or anything. You can see in the picture some things don't change!
For over 20 years old and with 150k miles on them, the shocks were still functioning and surprisingly good condition. Bushings did not even look bad:
GIG 'EM
The Fife said:
They're both Toyotas but it's funny to see how similar Toyota's designs were between your truck and my 00 Celica.
Also yes, those door lock actuators do suck! The motor is replaceable but there's something attached to the output shaft that I've never been able to transfer from an old motor to a new one. Without it they're useless.
edit: It's the brushes on the motor that wear out so if you wanted to get really crafty you could just remove and replace those by cannibalizing a good set of brushes from a new motor. The other problem I've run into from opening up the power door lock actuators is that the assembly is glued together. There's probably a better way of putting them together to make them more serviceable in the future but I haven't come up with one yet.
I have seen liquid electric tape work to fuse them back together
GIG 'EM
maroon barchetta said:
I talked to my son about it to replace what he drives which is still functional but has much higher mileage. H
He was interested. Would take some time to make the trek to Abilene but would have been worth it
That boss is not good with financial decisions.
Ran across this 2006 limited double cab 4x4 with 115k miles.
https://www.ancirachev.com/used-San+Antonio-2006-Toyota-Tundra-Limited-5TBDT48156S530024
Lived in texas and only 2 owners. Not sure if you could give your son yours and you get this?
GIG 'EM
That is a good find! Surprisingly low miles for that old a vehicle.
I wonder how much they would come down if any.
I wonder how much they would come down if any.
Only if it sits a month or so. At that price, it will be gone in less than a week. Hard to find them like that. This one has the VVTI motor with more hp, steering wheel audio controls, leather, the limited trucks are loaded. I like the access cab version better in the first gen's personally, but I know you are in a vehicle predicament at the moment so thought I would post this one.maroon barchetta said:
That is a good find! Surprisingly low miles for that old a vehicle.
I wonder how much they would come down if any.
GIG 'EM
I'm still driving my 2003 Tundra with 65k miles. My father was the original owner. It's solid, but needs a new paint job. A couple of times someone has left a note on my front door asking to buy it.
shiftyandquick said:
I'm still driving my 2003 Tundra with 65k miles. My father was the original owner. It's solid, but needs a new paint job. A couple of times someone has left a note on my front door asking to buy it.
Username does not check out.
I would like to leave a note in the door to ask to buy it.
Been working steadily on the old girl, a couple of updates. Valve covers were leaking so tried to run some at 205 and then tighten the bolts. Still could smell and see oil, so went ahead and replaced the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals. This should have been an easy job, but like everything it ended up being a nightmare. A bolt broke in the same spot on both sides, and after kroil oil, a map torch, and mig welding nuts on the studs I ended up having to drill them out.
Here some pictures in process and of the bolt:
And here is what the valve covers looked like when I pulled them:
And here is what they looked like after I cleaned them up. I used some oven cleaner and then gave them a hot dawn bath. What little bit of discoloration you see is flash rusting that I cleaned up with some vinegar before installing:
Here some pictures in process and of the bolt:
And here is what the valve covers looked like when I pulled them:
And here is what they looked like after I cleaned them up. I used some oven cleaner and then gave them a hot dawn bath. What little bit of discoloration you see is flash rusting that I cleaned up with some vinegar before installing:
GIG 'EM
I just did valve cover gaskets and a pcv valve on my 2uz last weekend! Really makes you think…
Did you get new rubber for each of the bolts?
Did you get new rubber for each of the bolts?
I did, I ordered using a land cruiser part number that comes with both the bolts and the rubber. Its also cheaper than buying just the rubber for each bolt. Here's the part number- 9008010330TSJ said:
I just did valve cover gaskets and a pcv valve on my 2uz last weekend! Really makes you think…
Did you get new rubber for each of the bolts?
GIG 'EM
Bump for OP so he can get us some more pics on updates
UPDATE FROM FRONT END WORK-When we went to install the moog end links, the threading was machined incorrectly and you could not get the nut on them. This was once a good company, that now sells garbage. The factory ones are not known to be very tough, that's why I went with the Moog. I put the old ones back on to get the truck back together. I ended up ordering some suspension Maxx ones and finally got them installed a few weeks ago.
Here is a picture of the old ones I pulled, one was shot:
Here's a link to the suspension maxx I replaced them with, much heavier than stock: https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/SMX-122260T
Here is a picture of the old ones I pulled, one was shot:
Here's a link to the suspension maxx I replaced them with, much heavier than stock: https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/SMX-122260T
GIG 'EM
Moog certainly is trash. I've had great luck with Mevotech, I've done three front end rebuilds with their parts
After changing my serp belt a few months ago, I still noticed a chirp on startups. Eventually it was squealing in the cold, even after warm up. Decided I needed to change the tensioner out, get a new belt, and replace the Idler pulley. Tensioner was the only OEM part I used for this job. Here's some info on the parts I used, as I was able to save a little money.
Tensioner- OEM Toyota. I use Mcgeorge most of the time for OEM Toyota parts.
Belt- Last time I used an OEM one mfg by dayco, and was unimpressed with the quality. This time I used a green gates fleet belt and it seems to be more heavily constructed. Link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1269362&cc=1357938&pt=8900&jsn=993
Idler pulley- Bought an NSK one from Rockauto and saved about 50 bucks. Made in Japan and they are the OEM supplier. I will have to link it when they are back in stock.
Tensioner- OEM Toyota. I use Mcgeorge most of the time for OEM Toyota parts.
Belt- Last time I used an OEM one mfg by dayco, and was unimpressed with the quality. This time I used a green gates fleet belt and it seems to be more heavily constructed. Link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1269362&cc=1357938&pt=8900&jsn=993
Idler pulley- Bought an NSK one from Rockauto and saved about 50 bucks. Made in Japan and they are the OEM supplier. I will have to link it when they are back in stock.
GIG 'EM
This job is way harder than it needs to be. To change the tensioner you need to pull the fan, fan shroud, alternator, power steering pump, and two timing covers. I tried watching some youtube's of it being replaced to pump myself up, but almost all of them were only replacing the pulley on the tensioner. When I compared the old idler pulley there was no difference between it and the new one. It spun freely. The tensioner pulley did not spin as freely as the new, but did not sound or feel like the bearings were going bad. The old tensioner itself was just as strong as the new one spring tension wise. In retrospect, I believe I would have tried changing just the tensioner pulley before going through all this trouble. What I did ended up fixing the noise, and is hopefully good for another 160k miles.
Here is a link to the pulley I would try replacing on the idler if I could do it over. Mfg uses a japanese NSK bearing as well: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10171988&cc=1357938&pt=10346&jsn=1016
Here is a link to the pulley I would try replacing on the idler if I could do it over. Mfg uses a japanese NSK bearing as well: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10171988&cc=1357938&pt=10346&jsn=1016
GIG 'EM
Need to get this thread updated. I have done a couple of things here and there to the truck, but my dad has been pretty busy enjoying it. He retired recently and somehow has gotten himself into furniture wholesaling. Picture of the Tundra putting in work on Fort Hood today, she's a little over payload. He spent the day switching between those two trailers, hauled an entire complex worth! I have some new leafs, airbags, and shocks for the rear in my garage waiting to be installed.
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