I know there are a ton of discussions on this but i searched and didn't find specific info. Please feel free to direct me to other threads if needed. I would love to hear from anyone who has gone down this road.

We are looking at Class C and want to Haul a 2004 Jeep Wrangler TJ on a trailer (not flat tow). We want to use the trailer for 2 reasons - 1) Overall I think hauling on a quality double axle trailer with heavy duty trailer brakes on both axles is safer than flat tow, and 2) Our Jeep is an off-road rig with big lift and big (expensive) tires - have heard off-road rigs can get squirrely in flat tow and it eats up those expensive tires.

Here is what I THINK I know (correct me as needed please).

1. The units we are looking at are all 28' or under and on the Ford E450 Chassis with a GVWR max of 14,500# and a GCWR of 20,000#. This gives me ability to haul 5,500# of Jeep/Trailer.

2. The V-10 drivetrain is a well proven truck based setup that can handle the loads.

3. I have weighed the Trailer/Jeep (fully loaded with all gear while on actual Jeep Trips) several times on commercial scales. Those weights for the Jeep/Trailer ranged from min of 5000# to max of 5,300#.

4. I have not checked the tongue weight but has been estimated at 500# to 600#. I understand that the tongue weight must be included in the GVWR of the motorhome.

5. Based on the above if I do the following I can safely and legally tow the Jeep/Trailer:
Install a Class IV Hitch with proper Frame reinforcement if
needed.
Verify and manage the tongue weight.
Do not exceed the 14,500# GVWR on the Motorhome and do not
overload the Jeep/trailer.

Has anyone gone down this specific rabbit hole and what did you find/decide. If so what exact modifications did you do to reinforce hitch/frame or on any other components (brakes, additional cooling etc.)?

I know there is much debate on this topic. I have years of experience hauling trailers and understand the risks of any towing done at the max limits of the tow vehicle. However it is my impression that the tow ratings placed on Motorhomes are based on the original Chassis as supplied by Ford (or Chevy), not taking into account what the final manufacturer puts on that chassis. Leads me to think that if we stay with a smaller unit (28' or under with no or just 1 slide) and manage the additional payload (gear, water, etc.) we can stay well under the GVWR/GCWR. I know that "other people are doing it" is not a good benchmark, but there are a huge amount of folks hauling bigger loads than I am proposing behind Class C's. I am hoping those folks will chime in with their thoughts.

Fire away. Any and all polite info/advice greatly appreciated.

You will be under the max towable weight - provided your hitch set up is correct. Some say "don't exceed 80% of max tow amount" but I think the manufacturers set these with some built in safety - I wouldn't hesitate with your setup to tow 5500.

You are aware of the need to stay under max GVWR and that hitch weight contributes to GVWR of the RV.

You will have brakes on the controller, that is appropriate at that weight.

The v-10 is a commercial use engine that is capable of pulling this around.

It comes down to MPG and perhaps not being able to maintain speeds up hills, but you are within your limits, have experience, and should be fine.

Have been considering this setup alot lately as well. I just pickup a stock 97 TJ and plan to flat tow it behind our F250+slide-in to Colorado in a few weeks. Want to see how it does. Have been looking at Class C's quite a bit lately. Curious how the V10 would handle the mountain passes.

I used to haul a 14K pound trailer with a 2004 F250 V10 (2valve). The newer 3vavle V10 is supposed to be quiet an improvement. The V10 had plenty of power for pulling that trailer. It's a very torquey motor for a gas engine. It's evident when you floor it and there's not really any additional power high in the rev range, that it's built for low rpm torque. I'd probably get an OBD wifi dongle and use OBD fusion to monitor engine coolant temps if you're hauling up mountains, but otherwise you should be okay.

I actually overheated the transmission on mine, when the gooseneck got stuck in a low spot. I was trying to pull it out and the trans fluid boiled over. The fluid dumped on top of the Y-pipe which proceeded to catch on fire. I put the fire out with a water hose. The truck was fine after that. Sold it a few months later still driving great.

One thing I'd recommend on your trailer is putting brakes on both axles. A lot of trailers only come with electric brakes on one axle. Good working trailer brakes are the best thing you could have while towing a heavy load. As I'm sure you know placement of the jeep with weight biased forward of the axles is imperative. A rear heavy trailer is extremely dangerous.

JB said:

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Have been considering this setup alot lately as well. I just pickup a stock 97 TJ and plan to flat tow it behind our F250+slide-in to Colorado in a few weeks. Want to see how it does. Have been looking at Class C's quite a bit lately. Curious how the V10 would handle the mountain passes.

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From what I have heard Flat Tow with a stock Jeep is a piece of cake. Word of warning - I have heard that auxiliary brakes may be required on the Jeep (Lots of diff opinions on this depending on State etc.). That said most folks I have talked to do not run Aux. brakes when towing behind trucks or Class A motorhomes. They have some pretty slick Aux. brake setups - mechanical (surge brake style) and electronic, but the are expensive....

Keep the GV and GC weights within the limits and you'll be fine.

I've flat towed both a TJ and JK behind our Class C ('15 Winnebago 27Q, E450 V-10) and you can't hardly tell they're back there. Not as heavy as a Jeep, but I've also hauled a Yamaha Wolverine on a 16' aluminum trailer more miles than I want to think about...again, the power to tow isn't a problem, but your TJ and trailer is going to be at least a couple thousand pounds more than my trailer/UTV combo

Not always, but I generally used a Brake Buddy for the flat tows. The trailer has brakes and I wouldn't even consider doing what you're talking about doing without them.

Other than the above, I don't know what else to tell you except that those V-10's love gasoline and the Class C mentioned above is for sale.

Might be Interested in the motorhome. Send me a PM if still available

Can't PM. Email is xxxtom@maddoxac.comxxx

Brake Buddys are expensive. I am all for brakes on whatever you are pulling, but I am not all that concerned with just a little flat towed Jeep. I have a car hauler, but am trying to avoid that extra 2500lbs and then having to deal with where to park it when I get where I am going.

On flat ground, flat towing a Jeep, where is the V10 comfortable? Can it hang at 70?

JB said:

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Brake Buddys are expensive. I am all for brakes on whatever you are pulling, but I am not all that concerned with just a little flat towed Jeep. I have a car hauler, but am trying to avoid that extra 2500lbs and then having to deal with where to park it when I get where I am going.

On flat ground, flat towing a Jeep, where is the V10 comfortable? Can it hang at 70?

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With nothing but a jeep behind you and a clear road, you shouldn't have any problems. What causes a stopping problem, at least in my experience, is the other jackasses that'll sooner or later cause you to stand on the motorhome's brakes...a Class C is heavy enough to begin with for the equivalent of an ambulance drivetrain and stretched chassis, and there have been a couple times I was glad to have all the stopping help I could get.

Then there are all the states that have pretty light weight limits before brakes are required. If I recall correctly, you're limited to 3000#'s in LA, AR, OK and NM....pretty sure you're going to bust that limit with a Jeep.

Anyway, like I think I said, I've towed with and without brakes. Just knowing the brakes are back there provides some peace of mind to me - your mileage may vary. I started without them and added later.


Just my personal preference probably as much as anything, I find towing (or just driving without towing) with the Class C "comfortable" anywhere between 65-70 and still feel like I'm getting somewhere faster than I could walk. Above that, road and higher RPM noise starts to get irritating and crosswinds seem to have more effect. Not sure how you define hang, but I've driven the speed limit on the 130 tollway above I-10 a couple of times with the cruise control on while towing the UTV/trailer combo...the machinery did it just fine, but sucked gas and I most certainly wasn't "comfortable" driving what felt like a flying tank at that speed.

JB said:

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Brake Buddys are expensive. I am all for brakes on whatever you are pulling, but I am not all that concerned with just a little flat towed Jeep. I have a car hauler, but am trying to avoid that extra 2500lbs and then having to deal with where to park it when I get where I am going.

On flat ground, flat towing a Jeep, where is the V10 comfortable? Can it hang at 70?

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I had the same attitude about the brake when flat towing, but since have done a ton of reading and probably changed my mind. The problem with a Class C is the rig is on the top end of weight the chassis was designed to carry and stop - thats without the jeep in back. I can't quote the math, but basically you have an extra 3000#s to 4000#s rolling behind you. If you hit the brakes in a panic stop, that extra weight is "multiples" more force, based on whatever speed you are traveling, trying to push you forward. This is going to add significantly to stopping distance.

For me, it took me using my truck pulling my trailer with the Jeep loaded. I just got in an empty parking lot and did some braking with the trailer brakes engaged, and then without. Even at slow speeds I could really feel the difference - and this is in a truck with a 11,000# towing capacity. I know the trailer adds some weight - in my case it is all aluminum so maybe 1300#'s added to the 4000# Jeep. But even if without the trailer the push was only half what I felt, it still made me think.

All that said, I feel you on the cost of the brakes. I have about decide to use the READYBRUTE tow bar which has a brake system built in - total cost around $1200. Your going to spend $800 anyway on a regular towbar.

Just my 2 cents. I already own the trailer, but will have to upgrade MH hitch and install electric brakes, and still be at the top end of MH towing capacity. Or flat tow so I am well under tow rating, but drop $1500 rigging lights and buying tow bar????

I am still casually looking at this on CL and on PPL.

On the V10, the 3v came out in 2005 per Wiki, replacing the 2v. I know 2004 was a changeover year. My 04 F150 new body has the 5.4 3v. Any chance some of the 2004 V10s got the 3v motor?

2v was rated for 305/420
3v was rated at 320/460

Going to go look at a few tomorrow.