What do you mean by seat connections? The mounting bars in the floor? Or are there power connections in there like a 200?

As for not having power, looks like there's a power block fuse and an inline fuse. Would check both

'03ag said:

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What do you mean by seat connections? The mounting bars in the floor? Or are there power connections in there like a 200?

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Yeah, all the bars and stuff in the floor. We have a minivan and will never use that awful third row. Plus my wife and daughter aren't really into camping so this is mainly just me and my son. I had the idea of building a drawer box with a mount on top using those seat connectors and turning my 3rd row into a garage couch with added storage on casters. Use the drawers for extra LC stuff I acquire. Seems like a better use for it (I think it has never been used) than taking up room in my garage apartment closet.

Yeah seems like they could go, except in mine I was planning to use those to anchor a drawer setup.

Got the lights working, but didn't bring out the tester to check the rear fuse box. Loose connections on the cluster*** on the terminals under the hood.

Light bar has water in it, and the brand is AutoFeel, so dozens of dollars down the drain.

Bonus picture of the rats nest of wires zip ties to the rack. Actually a nice rack by FrontRunner.


Also, I tracked that wire that goes between the rear seats up to under the center console, but am not taking that off at the time, so that's where that stopped. Another project for another day.

I have doubts that whoever wired those accessories knew what they were doing. They have an inline fuse right after a fused connection coming from the accessory fuse block. I also see larger gauge wire going into the fuse block, but only see 3, smaller gauge wires coming off the positive side of the battery. The best use for the existing wiring would be to help fish new wiring in its place.

What is your plan for accessories beyond a fridge? I would separate the plans into front accessories and rear accessories as well as always powered and powered with ignition. Depending on what all you anticipate, there are a few different approaches to wiring.

TxAg20 said:

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I have doubts that whoever wired those accessories knew what they were doing.

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You should see under the hood. This is the tip of the ice berg. I just want to try to sort this part out as best as possible now because I want to get drawers in the back before camping season.

Quote:

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They have an inline fuse right after a fused connection coming from the accessory fuse block. I also see larger gauge wire going into the fuse block, but only see 3, smaller gauge wires coming off the positive side of the battery.

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That battery has two side terminals as well as those posts and I'm sure those side posts are where the wires are coming from.

Quote:

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The best use for the existing wiring would be to help fish new wiring in its place.

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Yeah, I may end up doing that for sure.

Quote:

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What is your plan for accessories beyond a fridge? I would separate the plans into front accessories and rear accessories as well as always powered and powered with ignition. Depending on what all you anticipate, there are a few different approaches to wiring.

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I am fine on the front right now. I am probably going to put some USBs in the back seat, the fridge hook up and then probably a 12v and USBs in the wing of the drawers. I might wire up some amber lights out the back for when I am cooking and stuff from the fuse box.

I do have a 100AH LiFePo4 battery I am not using that was for my sailboat that I might repurpose back there as well. I kind of wouldn't mind putting it in the back and putting a couple solar panels on the front rack over the sun roof (I disabled the sunroof and siliconed it shut) just for that 100AH battery. Triple battery system? Who knows. But main thing is to get this stuff safe and out of the way so I can install the drawers.

careful with that lifepo battery. You'll need a DC-DC charger and sometimes those don't play nice with the new smart alternators(I don't THINK you have one of those but maybe you do).

TxAg20 said:

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They have an inline fuse right after a fused connection coming from the accessory fuse block.

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I was wondering about that but I suspect it's just in the name of expedience. lots of those accessories will come with that inline fuse already on the wiring. They probably just didn't want to cut it off.

'03ag said:

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careful with that lifepo battery. You'll need a DC-DC charger and sometimes those don't play nice with the new smart alternators(I don't THINK you have one of those but maybe you do).

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Yeah, I don't think I would add it to the current system. That seems way too far out of my wheelhouse. But putting it on its own with a solar input is doable.

The current system is on one of these to keep both batteries maintained.

Spotted in Bastrop

Lots of devices out there made manage charging via alternator and solar. They've already done the hard part and ran the battery cables to the back for you. If you don't have a smart alternator(I strongly suspect you don't) that simplifies things even further because you could have the charger in the rear without having to run the ACC trigger wire to your alternator.

With that wiring already run straight from your battery, seems to me it's pretty much the same amount of work to enable both charging sources.

https://www.litime.com/products/litime-12v-40a-dc-dc-battery-charger?currency=USD&variant=43997509615836&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=a05d7c18f02e&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw8fu1BhBsEiwAwDrsjJhGQMKIzcXQ75qdErR9O9aoTu4OwiCIgj2fFjlEMZHCUqBePqZwfRoCdFkQAvD_BwE


This one has an optional bluetooth module.

https://www.renogy.com/dcc50s-12v-50a-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/?Rng_ads=5621ffa71bc4ee66&kw=&ad=&gr=&ca=16171176472&pl=ga&gclid=CjwKCAjw8fu1BhBsEiwAwDrsjG_PBLbSDMT_qcFEtDXdSts-taccga-CQtNa-wBAil1WQknmtVCDRRoCWZ8QAvD_BwE&r_u_id=6302007725&gad_source=1

Awesome Thanks for posting these!!!

'03ag said:

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Lots of devices out there made manage charging via alternator and solar. They've already done the hard part and ran the battery cables to the back for you. If you don't have a smart alternator(I strongly suspect you don't) that simplifies things even further because you could have the charger in the rear without having to run the ACC trigger wire to your alternator.

With that wiring already run straight from your battery, seems to me it's pretty much the same amount of work to enable both charging sources.

https://www.litime.com/products/litime-12v-40a-dc-dc-battery-charger?currency=USD&variant=43997509615836&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=a05d7c18f02e&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw8fu1BhBsEiwAwDrsjJhGQMKIzcXQ75qdErR9O9aoTu4OwiCIgj2fFjlEMZHCUqBePqZwfRoCdFkQAvD_BwE


This one has an optional bluetooth module.

https://www.renogy.com/dcc50s-12v-50a-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/?Rng_ads=5621ffa71bc4ee66&kw=&ad=&gr=&ca=16171176472&pl=ga&gclid=CjwKCAjw8fu1BhBsEiwAwDrsjG_PBLbSDMT_qcFEtDXdSts-taccga-CQtNa-wBAil1WQknmtVCDRRoCWZ8QAvD_BwE&r_u_id=6302007725&gad_source=1

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Thanks for the links. I was looking at the Renogy 200W solar panel kit (looks to be about 41" by 41" side by side) and comes with a 20A MPPT controller for $250. I didn't know if I would be able to run that into that side connection from the secondary battery and have it work to charge both batteries. I dont know a lot about those systems, I've only done much more simple things.

It won't charge both batteries because they're different chemistries.

I was talking about just the two under the hood without even bringing the LifePO4 in.. Both are lead acid and linked with that balancer thing. I posted above.

Remember, I'm just a humble AgJournalism major.

ahhhhh I somehow missed that this was a 2nd battery.

That controller he has is used to make sure that the starter battery is charged and healthy before it attempts to charge the aux battery. I think, I don't have any real experience with them. Looks like it also has the ability to use the aux to start the car if needed.

https://sleeoffroad.com/products/bat006/

it all depends on what your needs are. the aux battery will probably run a fridge for a long time if you're moving the car every day. especially if you've got some solar to supplement.

and yeah the MPPT that comes with the Renogy kit should charge the aux

Someone selling their FJ40 on classifieds board

https://texags.com/forums/50/topics/3481896

I knew the owner when I was a student and he's an honest guy

That's a great truck. GLWS

Gamiviti speaker grille mounting solution.

Happy with it so far. Will eventually add more arms for a radio and maybe some camera stuff. Still sorting out wiring stuff but I plan to have a 12v socket, wired connection to my Vline in the glovebox, and some extra USB power.

Update: Sold

1997 one owner Texas truck untouched barn find

40th anniversary triple locked diffs

216k miles original

as is for $15,000

We unfortunately are not in a position to purchase another LC at the moment but he is ok with me sharing the info here.

Please only serious inquiries- you can contact him

I'm not able to upload pics but can send them to someone who is able - thanks

You can send to me at email in profile.

Thanks for posting those photos. What's the year of the four door LC in the last pic? I'm in Costa Rica and the FJ series is still common down here. Lot's of FJ 45s on the road with some very nice restorations. Lot's of fj 40s in service as tow trucks. There is at least one long framed fj 40 that is at least a couple feet longer than a typical fj 40. It's restored and really neat to see in the neighborhood.

That's an FJ45LV. Rarest of the rare and built mid-late 60s.

Thanks. I'll look into that one. Very neat to see one.

This is an old article about the LVs that stuck with me. It speaks to how unique they were amongst FJs.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a27721/shopping-with-colin-toyota-land-cruiser/

Thanks for that. I've never heard of that model. I try to get photos of the old LCs down here when I can. I'll try and post them sometime. LC's of all years and models are everywhere down here.

So many LC versions we never fee ir at least can't for 25 years.

Centerpole90 said:

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That's an FJ45LV. Rarest of the rare and built mid-late 60s.

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Yes they are super rare and there is a unique subcult of the cruiser world that revolves around these. This one followed us down black bear pass which I probably wouldn't have done but to each their own.

csnole said:

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We are having work done on our 2000 Landcruiser with Alex at Yota Ranch in Austin. He called to ask if we were interested in buying this

1997 one owner Texas truck untouched barn find

40th anniversary triple locked diffs

216k miles original

as is for $15,000

We unfortunately are not in a position to purchase another LC at the moment but he is ok with me sharing the info here.

Please only serious inquiries- you can contact him at:

Nine two five 336 five two three 5

I'm not able to upload pics but can send them to someone who is able - thanks

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Just realized that I never posted the pics you shared for anyone else interested.