Any V8 will get him in trouble in that truck!
Insert LS Here.
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Last: 5 yr ago by CATAGBQ04
If that's the case, I suppose it's a matter of where you choose to be locked up. County, state, or federal
I was going to post this to your RACETRUCK thread for you, because you never insta... but since you're here,
How do you feel about square body chevy's?
https://instagr.am/p/Bj3RApzAHA3
How do you feel about square body chevy's?
https://instagr.am/p/Bj3RApzAHA3
Gahdam
It's funny how the little things that seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of a project can be the ones you fret over the most.
Since this launch control solenoid hit the doorstep I have fretted over where to mount it. We didn't want to use the fender because, well, the I'm not even sure that the inner fenders are going to work without some modification. We didn't really want to go all the way back to the firewall with the brake lines and afraid afraid it would be too much of a heat sink if it was bolted to frame. Once I set the master cylinder and booster, though, it came clear where it should go. Marking up a piece of 3\16" flat iron I drilled a mounting plate for each hole pattern and boom; it fits like a glove tucked away next to the proportioning valve.
Next ticky tack project - securing this fuel fill nozzle and permanently attaching the cap so that someone can't jerk it off and start pumping gas into the cab. (this is just the fuel neck cut from the tank, the last 6" and the cap for nostalgia, fuel goes into an aluminum tank under the bed)
Since this launch control solenoid hit the doorstep I have fretted over where to mount it. We didn't want to use the fender because, well, the I'm not even sure that the inner fenders are going to work without some modification. We didn't really want to go all the way back to the firewall with the brake lines and afraid afraid it would be too much of a heat sink if it was bolted to frame. Once I set the master cylinder and booster, though, it came clear where it should go. Marking up a piece of 3\16" flat iron I drilled a mounting plate for each hole pattern and boom; it fits like a glove tucked away next to the proportioning valve.
Next ticky tack project - securing this fuel fill nozzle and permanently attaching the cap so that someone can't jerk it off and start pumping gas into the cab. (this is just the fuel neck cut from the tank, the last 6" and the cap for nostalgia, fuel goes into an aluminum tank under the bed)
JB weld that ho
I will. That's a good idea.
Got most of the wiring hooked up to the engine with the exception of the starter, crank sensor, and transmission. I need to find my taller jack stands and cut some boards to go under the tires so the air bags don't hang in tension (they're not supposed to do that for long). Too much 'moar low' for me to scoot around under there and my little buddy has some tractor work to do.
We are making progress!
https://instagr.am/p/BljXQ-sgmWj
We are making progress!
https://instagr.am/p/BljXQ-sgmWj
$1,000 LS swap?
Hahahahaha.
Try $1,000 radiator! *
* not really, close though with the fan controller board and harness.
Hahahahaha.
Try $1,000 radiator! *
* not really, close though with the fan controller board and harness.
CP it looks awesome. Love how clean it is.
Thanks Jrod. If by clean you mean 'hey, that's clean, or tight, or really coming together well' then yes, I think it's pretty clean too.
If you mean it's clean as in 'not dirty' then that's just camera angle. We work in our farm shop and get a LOT of dust and dirt. I am constantly sweeping the barn and can't keep up. No way we can keep it out of every nick and cranny of the truck. I am very jealous when I see guys work in shops that look like operating rooms in town or that are closed in/insulated. This is improved shade tree mechaniching here.
I wanted to get the exact position of the radiator support so we could start shopping for radiator hoses & install AC condenser so we put a fender on to steady it. That was motivating because it added a recognizable piece to the puzzle and made it look more like a truck. Today my partner & I are going to try and get the transmission cooler lines in and finish some more wiring now that the truck is high enough to get under.
https://instagr.am/p/BlzBtCMAtFr
If you mean it's clean as in 'not dirty' then that's just camera angle. We work in our farm shop and get a LOT of dust and dirt. I am constantly sweeping the barn and can't keep up. No way we can keep it out of every nick and cranny of the truck. I am very jealous when I see guys work in shops that look like operating rooms in town or that are closed in/insulated. This is improved shade tree mechaniching here.
I wanted to get the exact position of the radiator support so we could start shopping for radiator hoses & install AC condenser so we put a fender on to steady it. That was motivating because it added a recognizable piece to the puzzle and made it look more like a truck. Today my partner & I are going to try and get the transmission cooler lines in and finish some more wiring now that the truck is high enough to get under.
https://instagr.am/p/BlzBtCMAtFr
CP, I meant clean as you don't have extra long spark plug wires and it all seems thought out. Just meant a very clean engine bay. My workshop is filthyyyy
Sorry for the quick bump, but this was a big day today, we got the battery in and wired up. We aren't quite ready to energize the whole truck harness yet, but the Accuair Elevel is standalone we fired the compressors up and aired it up. This was the first time we've done this without being tethered to the shop air tank.
Progress is picking up speed. This is getting very exciting.
For everyone who didn't get it on snapchat.
Progress is picking up speed. This is getting very exciting.
For everyone who didn't get it on snapchat.
Make em say guh
Guh!!!
GTBullitt68
Joined:
Sep 9, 2011
Posts:
792
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Such a *****'n build!
A running engine is a yuge milestone. Congrats!
Oh yeah
Many thanks guys. What a pick-me-up that was for CPjr and I. All the fluids stayed in the engine, none of them mixed together, pressures were all good, none of my valve seats popped off (yet) - and it went without a hitch.
The first time I bumped the key nothing happened and I looked at CPjr knowing he was looking to gauge my response; my mind was racing and in less than a second it stopped - neutral safety switch. I sent him to fetch a jumper wire while I dug around behind the dash (we don't have steering column in yet) and and found the pigtail. Next bump and it cranked right away.
It's not going to make the first day of school; but we won't miss it by much.
The first time I bumped the key nothing happened and I looked at CPjr knowing he was looking to gauge my response; my mind was racing and in less than a second it stopped - neutral safety switch. I sent him to fetch a jumper wire while I dug around behind the dash (we don't have steering column in yet) and and found the pigtail. Next bump and it cranked right away.
It's not going to make the first day of school; but we won't miss it by much.
The hell you need a neutral safety wire for?
School started this week, but not before CPjr and I achieved another benchmark on our 'getting shorter by the day' list of stuff to do.
First he de-spidered the bed for me. Ya, I'm that guy. One of those big black house spiders falls out on me and I'll be looking for another project to work on. That's the original bed floor, solid as Sears.
After a good wash job and cleaning we set it on a trailer and hauled it to the shop where put in the new wiring harness. 1968 was the first year that side reflectors were required. Later these became marker lights, but on the 68's they're just reflectors, so not much to wire the bed. This is one of the very subtle differences between 67 & 68 trucks: side markers and the disappearance of the small rear window after 67.
We did squeeze in a fishing trip the next day. Look at that concentration and line haul. The Gulf was beautiful.
The next day we finished the wiring on the truck itself and built the connector plug to hook to the bed. We also rechecked all our fuel fittings and connections. Lastly we cut some rubber hose and made chaffing guards for all the air line bends. Then we recruited one of his more hefty buddies to come over and we reunited a signature component with the Red Baron...
That was a big step. Wheel clearances are all good and we later centered the axle; #winning.
Now, question. Tuning this beast. We've got some transmission lines to make up, brake lines to finish, and with a little more wiring it will be ready to roll. It has a bench tune in it - but I'm presuming that I'll need to take it somewhere for someone to tune it.. on a dyno? Anyone have experience with this in San Antonio? That's closest - Unless someone has a tip in the RGV, I don't know of anywhere here to take it.
First he de-spidered the bed for me. Ya, I'm that guy. One of those big black house spiders falls out on me and I'll be looking for another project to work on. That's the original bed floor, solid as Sears.
After a good wash job and cleaning we set it on a trailer and hauled it to the shop where put in the new wiring harness. 1968 was the first year that side reflectors were required. Later these became marker lights, but on the 68's they're just reflectors, so not much to wire the bed. This is one of the very subtle differences between 67 & 68 trucks: side markers and the disappearance of the small rear window after 67.
We did squeeze in a fishing trip the next day. Look at that concentration and line haul. The Gulf was beautiful.
The next day we finished the wiring on the truck itself and built the connector plug to hook to the bed. We also rechecked all our fuel fittings and connections. Lastly we cut some rubber hose and made chaffing guards for all the air line bends. Then we recruited one of his more hefty buddies to come over and we reunited a signature component with the Red Baron...
That was a big step. Wheel clearances are all good and we later centered the axle; #winning.
Now, question. Tuning this beast. We've got some transmission lines to make up, brake lines to finish, and with a little more wiring it will be ready to roll. It has a bench tune in it - but I'm presuming that I'll need to take it somewhere for someone to tune it.. on a dyno? Anyone have experience with this in San Antonio? That's closest - Unless someone has a tip in the RGV, I don't know of anywhere here to take it.
Depends on the bench tune, biggest thing that will have an affect on drivability now is the cam. Spoke with my tuner for a RGV rec, he said Josh's Performance Tuning.
You'd be fine just sticking with a street tune and not paying for dyno time.
You'd be fine just sticking with a street tune and not paying for dyno time.
Thanks for the lead Silvy. I found them on FB and when we get there that's where I'll start.
I had in mind originally that I would haul it to Dallas in October for a couple reasons: first I was going to get the guy I bought most of the speed stuff from to tune it, I was going to try and make C10s in the Park, and I had someone picked out that I was going to have buff and polish the body out.
Then I had a change of heart. The guy I wanted to tune it has kinda blown up and I don't think he's in my budget from what I'm hearing. I forgot to pre-register for C10s in the Park. Lastly, CPjr and I have done all this ourselves, every bit of it, and I don't want to do all this and hand it off to someone to put on the finishing touches. So when we have it all together we'll compound and polish it ourselves and live with the result. That and Dallas ain't getting closer.
I had in mind originally that I would haul it to Dallas in October for a couple reasons: first I was going to get the guy I bought most of the speed stuff from to tune it, I was going to try and make C10s in the Park, and I had someone picked out that I was going to have buff and polish the body out.
Then I had a change of heart. The guy I wanted to tune it has kinda blown up and I don't think he's in my budget from what I'm hearing. I forgot to pre-register for C10s in the Park. Lastly, CPjr and I have done all this ourselves, every bit of it, and I don't want to do all this and hand it off to someone to put on the finishing touches. So when we have it all together we'll compound and polish it ourselves and live with the result. That and Dallas ain't getting closer.
Looks great.
Hook it up to that skiff and complete the picture...
Hook it up to that skiff and complete the picture...
Thank you.
There are two things that would look really, really, good behind it...
I can't find a pic of a little Miley one-horse bumper pull.. but shotgun would work too.
There are two things that would look really, really, good behind it...
I can't find a pic of a little Miley one-horse bumper pull.. but shotgun would work too.
3 day weekend. Almost finished. No pictures. What the hell.
Well, it was a 2 day weekend because I gave everyone off Saturday, but that was it; Monday we were back at it.
We did get some done on Saturday though... like finally finishing those pesky transmission lines I've been agonizing over for a while. We did 5/16" steel from the trans up to the front of the engine and then transitioned to AN to follow the front crossmember across to the cooler. I'm happy with them.
There's actually a lot of wiring out of view here for the AC controls. The Vintage Air system uses potentiometer sliders that attach to the sliders on the heater controls. One lever will control temp, one fan speed, and the other the defrost/vent blend door. These are new controls but we chose to retrofit heater only because it's more the spirit of the truck vs factory AC. I've said it on this board before - Vintage Air is quality stuff; the instructions are well done, it's packaged well, and it works. I recommend it.
There are big wins, like starting the engine or putting the bed on - but sometimes it's the smallest things that give can be a kick - like hooking up the dome lamp...
https://instagr.am/p/BnNBQKxAlne
I have to put things away a day or two; it's time for Aggie football. Have to get this loaded and hauled to College Station this Friday for some tailgating! BTHO Clemson,
#tailgateszn
We did get some done on Saturday though... like finally finishing those pesky transmission lines I've been agonizing over for a while. We did 5/16" steel from the trans up to the front of the engine and then transitioned to AN to follow the front crossmember across to the cooler. I'm happy with them.
There's actually a lot of wiring out of view here for the AC controls. The Vintage Air system uses potentiometer sliders that attach to the sliders on the heater controls. One lever will control temp, one fan speed, and the other the defrost/vent blend door. These are new controls but we chose to retrofit heater only because it's more the spirit of the truck vs factory AC. I've said it on this board before - Vintage Air is quality stuff; the instructions are well done, it's packaged well, and it works. I recommend it.
There are big wins, like starting the engine or putting the bed on - but sometimes it's the smallest things that give can be a kick - like hooking up the dome lamp...
https://instagr.am/p/BnNBQKxAlne
I have to put things away a day or two; it's time for Aggie football. Have to get this loaded and hauled to College Station this Friday for some tailgating! BTHO Clemson,
#tailgateszn
Good stuff!
I'm currently high centered waiting for a $2.50 brake adapter from Summit because nobody in the RGV either has or cares to go back and look for a 9/16-18 tube nut for 1/4" inverted flare. Anyway, while it's on the way I'm working on a few other things like finishing the AC wiring and starting to tuck stuff away under the dash. I got the steering column in and hooked up over the weekend.
Anyway - before long I'll have to haul it to town and put exhaust on. Suggestions? We want it to have a deep tone and sound cool, not like open headers. I kinda like the sound of the Borla exhaust in the video.
I'm not sure where we are going to wind up dumping the exhaust. There is no way to go over the rear axle like traditional trucks. That space is full of panhard bar and fuel tank. So, that leaves dumping it in front of the axle, which we really aren't big on... or trying to snake it out right in front of the rear tires on each side. The air compressors and air tanks are there but we might can go under them. The hard trick is getting outside the frame because the trailing arms have so much travel on the air bags.
So... exhaust suggestions....
Anyway - before long I'll have to haul it to town and put exhaust on. Suggestions? We want it to have a deep tone and sound cool, not like open headers. I kinda like the sound of the Borla exhaust in the video.
I'm not sure where we are going to wind up dumping the exhaust. There is no way to go over the rear axle like traditional trucks. That space is full of panhard bar and fuel tank. So, that leaves dumping it in front of the axle, which we really aren't big on... or trying to snake it out right in front of the rear tires on each side. The air compressors and air tanks are there but we might can go under them. The hard trick is getting outside the frame because the trailing arms have so much travel on the air bags.
So... exhaust suggestions....
Definitely Borla or Magnaflow, or something close. I had a Dodge D150 with a 318 Magnum 5 spd, with a Borla knockoff dumped just before the rear axle, 3" single pipe. That was my favorite sounding truck I've had, very distinctive sound, deep but raspy.
You should buy some 1-7/8" longtubes.
I've got the damn eBay speed engineering on and a set of Thorley Tri-Y that don't fit any more. I don't need any more. I feel like a header salesman.
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