Insert LS Here.

49,032 Views | 299 Replies | Last: 5 yr ago by CATAGBQ04
Centerpole90
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AG
Got the C notch installed in the frame today. I didn't much like the idea of notching originally; but everyone does it so I guess I'm in the crowd now. This should give the suspension more travel at our desired ride height so we aren't always bouncing around on the bump stop. The kit included a template to cut the rough opening then it was just grinding here and there until it dropped right in.



Kind of reminds me of a glider kit for a truck tractor in this shot.



I've had a WTB an on Corpus Christi CL page looking for a dealer stamped bumper from my uncle's Robstown dealership but haven't had any hits. I was looking through some old pictures this evening and saw this one of dad and one of his horses... wish I could see the rest of the truck - or had that bumper from it.



Next up - take the cab back off and run brake lines, fuel lines, and air lines. That and engine work.
helloag99
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Almost looks like that horse is about to kick
Centerpole90
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Probably the last update with the cab on for a while. I reattached the axle today and now it's time to set the cab off and run all fuel/air/brake lines while I wait for wiring. Very glad I put the notch in. This is sitting on the bottom in the rear and just a tad of air in the front to level it.



#keepitsimple

https://instagr.am/p/BZPd6Kjjwx9

I just can't get enough of those '67 caps with the red. So hot.

Aggieangler93
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In!
Class of '93 - proud Dad of a '22 grad and a '26 student!
Centerpole90
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CPjr & I won't be able to work on the Red Baron this weekend but while we've been waiting for the wiring harness there has been progress... Removed the cab one more time; as promised

https://instagr.am/p/BZUeSF3j7Lm

Then using a little Comet bleach, 3M compound & polish, and a lot of elbow grease we got the inside of the cab looking much more like home. Far side - a good scrubbing with Comet takes away all the gunk and even some of the dead paint; near side - lightly compounded but not yet polished.



Much better. No repaint, no faux-tina - just bringing what's there back to life.



https://instagr.am/p/BZpDmfvDVNg

This week we made up the 6AN fuel lines, mounted the regulator, and ran the hardline in the frame to the engine. Probably best we wait until the cab is in place before we do the final flaring up there. I think we've finally settled on the location for the Accuair Vu4 valve (behind the fuel tank) so up next, brake lines and air lines.



agwrangler2001
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Man those fuel lines look way better than mine!

Where did you get the black braid?
Centerpole90
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You are very kind to compliment our fuel lines, and with all sincerity... I don't believe you.

I'm 99.9% sure that I got the black braid from Summit Racing. I'd have to go look through my order history because I did buy some fuel line parts from Speedway, but most came from Summit.

If you don't mind me asking, what did you do about brake lines? Did you bend your own or buy a kit? I did one of the 49 AD Chevy trucks I had a few years back and enjoyed it. I was thinking since the truck is naked we might just do it all ourselves instead of buying a kit (I *******ized some of it anyway because the front crossmember is from an 84 C10).

For now we are keeping the drums in the rear (but want to keep the disc option open) and discs in the front and going power. the old manual brake lines are TINY TINY.

Any suggestions on size/material for brake lines ? I am not sure that I want to undertake stainless - so lets just keep that option Z.
agwrangler2001
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Centerpole90 said:

You are very kind to compliment our fuel lines, and with all sincerity... I don't believe you.

I'm 99.9% sure that I got the black braid from Summit Racing. I'd have to go look through my order history because I did buy some fuel line parts from Speedway, but most came from Summit.

If you don't mind me asking, what did you do about brake lines? Did you bend your own or buy a kit? I did one of the 49 AD Chevy trucks I had a few years back and enjoyed it. I was thinking since the truck is naked we might just do it all ourselves instead of buying a kit (I *******ized some of it anyway because the front crossmember is from an 84 C10).

For now we are keeping the drums in the rear (but want to keep the disc option open) and discs in the front and going power. the old manual brake lines are TINY TINY.

Any suggestions on size/material for brake lines ? I am not sure that I want to undertake stainless - so lets just keep that option Z.
No really, my fuel line set up was on the cheap. I went with all nylon lines, so it's all function, no form.
I expect I will go back with black braid at some point, mainly because the looks bug me, and the proximity of nylon fuel lines to exhaust pipe bothers me.

I bought mostly kits for my brakes. I also originally thought I would only do discs on the front, so I bought a A-Body disc swap kit that had 2" drop spindles, S-10 style rotors and calipers, lines and a master cylinder with booster. Works fine, but wish I would've gone the 4 wheel kit route, so I wouldn't have to piece things together.
For example, I currently have no e-brake because I need a custom solution to go from A-body pedal to late 90s F-body discs.

CPP has quite a few kits available, I hear different review on their quality though. They do carry big names like Baer and Wilwood though.

Check out Kore3 (Tobin is a big help) and also Inline Tube. The latter should have anything brake line needed you could possibly want. I think I picked up the rear line kit from Inline and went with the zinc plated steel. Don't remember the size, but I'm running rear discs so maybe not apples to apples.
Centerpole90
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Suffering from 'paralysis by analysis' right now. I'm still not completely happy that we didn't switch rears to discs, but the main thing is trying to decide if we're going to bend our own brake lines or try for a kit. I am really thinking that a kit is going to lead to a lot of frustration because:
  • There are a bunch of boosters out there, no way a premade kit is going to nail it.
  • Somewhere in there we want to install the line lock, another modification.
  • Our front crossmember is from a later truck and the lines don't terminate in the same place as stock.
That in combination with wanting to change the rear brakes is causing some soul searching. Bending your own lines for a whole truck is another world of frustrations.

IF we bend our own lines I want to buy a really nice flaring kit (I'm already jonesing for) and to justify that methinks I'll hardline some of the air too....

ETA

Okay, Screw all that. I was going down a rabbit hole that was getting us off track. I just ordered us a 73-80 2wd C10 brake line kit because I read it will fit our truck - for the $150 I believe ENOUGH of it will work out of the box to make it pay; any modifications shouldn't be world ending.
Centerpole90
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Late October update.

Brake lines are going about as fast as you would expect brake lines to go. I sent Inline tube their kit back because there wasn't enough of it that fit my application to make it worth the price. So it's tubing bender, the old flaring kit, and making coat hanger patterns every evening.

https://instagr.am/p/Bahc0mkj8G8

Speaking of evenings, I replaced all the shop light bulbs so I can see again - or at least as well as I can. Projects like this should be done if that portion of your life where cheater reading glasses aren't always slipping off your nose.



This week I got a couple boxes in the mail from Modern Vintage Systems with all my wiring harness. John @ MVS made me a married harness from his own LS harness and a brand new American Autowire 68 C10 wiring harness. This rewires the whole truck new, less the original engine harness that has been replaced with the LS harness - so the truck will be wired like it had LS from the factory. No extra wires on either harness to do away with and no duplicate wires running around.



https://instagr.am/p/Bam53pRjqrw

Hopefully November produces more visible results.
agwrangler2001
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Wow I like the sound of the harness package...may have to check that out for my next project that I keep looking for!

Sorry I steered you wrong on the Inline products, sounds like you've got quite a bit more custom stuff going on.

Centerpole90
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You didn't steer me wrong my friend! I started with the wrong set - and got the notion to do that from 67-72 forum, not you. When I backed up and looked at it I realized it just not that hard. Patience is all it takes so I just went to work.

I made a command decision last night based on some experienced advice that should add a little zip to the build. As with most course adjustments - it involves undoing some stuff - but it will be worth it in the long run. Suspension related. I'll tease w/ that.
agwrangler2001
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Centerpole90 said:

it involves undoing some stuff - but it will be worth it in the long run. Suspension related. I'll tease w/ that.

Aggieangler93
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Man....I wish I had the room and the time to take something like this on. I love the thread and can't wait to see her up and turning heads!
Class of '93 - proud Dad of a '22 grad and a '26 student!
Centerpole90
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Aggieangler93 said:

Man....I wish I had the room and the time to take something like this on. I love the thread and can't wait to see her up and turning heads!
Thanks, and I can't wait to see it up and running myself.

There is no doing it without the two things you mentioned. The truck is currently in 3 places at once: half of it is in a barn here at the house, half in the shop, and cab floats around depending on where we decide to tinker with it. Time is always at a premium; I don't think that ends until we stop breathing.
Centerpole90
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December Update.

First, I really thought we would be further along in this than we are now. The progress really slowed down once school started more than I anticipated. Football season took a couple weekend, prospect steer shows took a couple, and a whole bunch of other smaller things; but the more than likely the real reason was just small distractions piling up. So; we still don't have the cab on the frame as of today, but the checklist to do that is getting shorter.
  • Install torque converter
  • Install corner height sensors and wires
  • Driveshaft

I've measured for the driveshaft and have the slip yoke; so that should be quick. The TC is on order and should ship tomorrow. The tabs to mount the ride height sensors are on backorder - but if they don't arrive soon then angle iron will have to do.

I alluded to a change in plans on the suspension. I gave in and purchased the Accuair E-level system now instead of putting it off because it's easiest installed without the body on. The E-level system used electronic ride height sensors located on each corner and through its own controller maintains that height at varying load conditions. This eliminates air gauges to 'set' the height desired and also returns it to the same position within a fraction of an inch every time greatly helping tire wear issues air rides are known for. The system also has 3 preprogrammed heights that can be selected with the touch of a button AND can be programmed to lay the truck out when the key is removed and raise it ride height when the engine is started.



One of the things I'm learning is that no matter HOW many people have done this before or how much internet research you do - things are going to creep up that require you to 'make it your own' and do some degree of fabricating. Case in point: I ordered compressor mounts from Porterbuilt and the tanks were backordered. I didn't sweat it because I wasn't to that point when I ordered them but as we started on suspension we learned that the tanks used for the mounts we had were discontinued. Great. Porterbuilt was in a holding pattern while they thought through their solution - but we trudged on and with he help of a MIG and some angle iron designed our own mounts for the tanks we could get our hands on.

https://instagr.am/p/Bb0WaoCjQXU

With that done it was on to running the air lines and mounting the VU4 valve and controller. I had to tough choice here: Diet Coke or Beer. Beer or Diet Coke. I opted for both.



https://instagr.am/p/Bb5Q48ODH65

I wanted to mount these where they A. wouldn't be near exhaust because of nylon air line B. could be attached to the frame so I could remove bed without having to dismantle air ride and C. weren't in direct line of road debris. To meet those requirements I opted for the very rear of the truck attached to the last crossmember. I angled the valve and cut a widow for the air lines to pass through. This way the lines don't kink and it is all serviceable without removing the bed.



We started working a little more in the evenings. The purple sky over the shop is really pretty some nights.



When agWrangler started looking for another project I decided to the contribute to his delinquency - this is one of 100 candidates I've shot his way...



That and in case you haven't heard, we hired a coach. That was a distraction.



Work does go on with the cab. We did some sanding on the inner firewall to shoot it with some base coat when the weather clears up. The outer firewall area won't be painted - just the protruding part. I'm all about patina, but just don't like where the brake fluid completely took all the paint off the firewall.



The weather. What the actual F? So this happened as close to the equator as you're going to get in TEXAS.



Once the snow melted and the temps got back to about 70 it was time to do al little engine work. CPjr and I recruited a little help for a couple extra hands when we stabbed the cam in. 80 year old eyes find timing marks about as good or better than mine...



HELLLLOOOO DOWN THERE.... Hahaha. No lifters were dropped in this exercise!



This Brian Tooley Racing LS valve spring compressor is my new best friend. Just about the time we got real good at it we ran out of valves to do! Black viton valve seals on INTAKE, Brown seals on Exhaust. Black on intake, brown on exhaust. Don't forget.



I guess that's where we stand for now; the engine is buttoned up (cam installed) and I expect torque coverer/driveline in by Christmas. Hopefully we will be wiring shortly after the New Year rolls around. This may be taking longer than I planned, but so far the enthusiasm hasn't waned on my part or CPjr. Sometimes though my attention does get drawn away....

Have I mentioned I have to drive by this 2-3 times a day. Hmmmmmm.....



Merry Christmas Auto Board.
Complaint Investigator
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still going faster than mine.


agwrangler2001
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Yesssss.
Looking good! Need more frequent updates!

(side note, if I order that green C-10 today, when can I expect delivery??)
Centerpole90
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HAPPY NEW YEAR! jk.

Hasn't been much progress in a while and like I said in another thread, I'm tired of posting pictures of just the frame, but I hope we are turning the corner so let's update... Forgive using IG for image hosting- it's just a lot easier.

Just after the first of the year we were putting what we thought were the finishing touches on the chassis before setting the cab. The last thing was setting the driveline angles and that's where things got dicey. As it turns out the engine was a little steeper than ideal. A lot steeper. The fuel injected LS would be okay with it, but because everything is so low the driveline is horizontal and the tolerances are pretty close. To get the initial angle to 5* we needed to shim tailshaft up 1". The problem is that adjustment pushed the driveline up into the crossmember hoop. To get the tailshaft down where it needed to be means lowering the front of the engine - something I couldn't do with the 302-1 Holley pan because of steering link clearance. So... we needed to make some changes and that started today. We pulled the engine and changed to the F Body pan that is 1.25" thinner over the steering link.

https://instagr.am/p/Bg9x_oOjzrB

Tomorrow we are changing LS adapter plates, motor mounts, AND engine stands. All of the new stuff is thinner to try to get the front of the engine as low as possible. I'm not sure the headers will fit in the frame rails if we get as low as we'd like - but I KNOW the Camaro manifolds will work so we can always resort to them.

Progress has been slow - but now that I've got a bunch of work behind me I think we will have more opportunity to get some stuff done. The good thing about having a pickup completely torn apart and scattered all over the shop is that it give a mental escape from any situation. If I'm worried - boom, thinking about the truck. Bored - the Truck. CPjr has too much homework - talk about our truck. Pissed off about something - yep. Truck. If the truck isn't escape enough; the friendships are. CPjr enjoys wearing his C10 club T-shirt a friend in AL sent him

https://instagr.am/p/BgY0p5YlB1U

#soon

https://instagr.am/p/Bfr3yKsDtu3

ETA - just got a response from a guy on a FB as for a 71 GMC truck that was rocking a Smash Hit grille guard. "You want to buy this piece?" Yep... "Deal." Finally. That'll be a cool addition, one I've been On the hunt for.

Duncan Idaho
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2 weeks ago, I would have been impressed with the progress. Now i have to believe that You must be lazy or dumb.

I was told just last week by a new poster on this board that you should be able to do a frame off in 4 months if you have a few cousins helping you.
Centerpole90
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I was sympathetic to the new guy in that exchange... because.. new guy.

But as I'm putting my tools away you have literally made lol - so blue parachute for you. And I vote that I'm more dumb than lazy.
Centerpole90
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Since the cab is back on the truck I guess I can update again. The last few days have been pretty productive in fact. We put up a couple pieces of posterboard in the shop to post checklists on ( ala Roadkill Garage) and it's been great for improving production and morale.



The cab set back on and luckily the compressor mounts, bell housing, driveline, and engine all cleared just like the measuring tape said they would. That was encouraging. The new center crossmember moved the anchor point of the truck arms up from their original location. That improved the geometry of the rear suspension but also meant we had to reposition and realign the rear air ride sensors. I don't have any pics of that but it was something that got scratched off the list.

The only 'rust through' on a VERY solid truck was right at the bottom of the door sill. This is at the bottom of door opening and there is supposed to be a small lip that the door seal goes on. Over the years dirt collected there and with a little moisture the thin lip rotted away.



The old seal laid there out of habit, but there was nothing to hold the new one on. Otherwise the old rockers were solid as could be and it would be a shame to replace them since they are totally OG and have OG paint - so we decided to just cut a patch out of the replacement rockers and patch in the little bit that was rusted out.



I posted in the auto endeavors thread that we replaced all the windows seals and cat whiskers on the door. We also put a new regulator in the drivers door, a new door handle on this door, and still have to re-key it since we are hoping to road-trip the truck and don't have a door key for it. Sometimes when in the shop its rewarding to sit and think. It's hard to tell sometimes how much is done and all I can see is what is left to do - but it does make a nice looking roller.



If sitting and looking isn't enough then grabbing the remote and 'hittin' the switches' will darn sure refuel the tank...



yes, the video is vertical, it's a Snapchat post. Those switches are just temporary. I bought a generic switch controller to use through construction; but the eLevel system uses an iPod sized touchpad for when you want to change the ride height.





The yellow coiled up air line gets a lot of laughs from my friends because it's in all the pictures. Since we don't have power to the compressors the truck is on 'shore power' and we use shop air to work the suspension. The hope is that when it's operational the truck will actually get farther from the shop than that length of air hose.

Yesterday we did some painting to some select piece for reassembly. The steering wheel had some cracks so CPjr filled those and I painted it. The defrost vents were out an new ones come black, so they had to be painted, and the metal piece is a mount that I found online to install an LS DBW throttle sector and perfectly position it where the factory accelerator pedal was. Win. Win.

https://instagr.am/p/BiakKhPAwGG

Some days I get pretty discouraged; it seems like there is so far to go. Why didn't I just leave well enough alone, make kickass little six-banger road warrior and roll with it? Then I remind myself that getting there is half the journey ( I didn't say fun ). The pressure to finish stems from the desire to have it on the road so CPjr can enjoy it some while he's still home; he's just finishing his Jr. year. It think that's doable but we will need to keep at it.

https://instagr.am/p/BhfSmB7Aorp

Up next is wiring. The LS harness is laid out on the office floor like a spiderweb... Time to slay the LS dragon.
Complaint Investigator
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Some days I wonder if my wheels will ever come in so I can start doing more. I am at a standstill other than floor pans. You are way ahead of the game!!
Centerpole90
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Little victories. I got a little work done on Friday afternoon. CPjr was away on a FFA trip so I was missing my extra set of hands but it was a productive afternoon, even if it started off with a surprise.

The LS engine harness is a new custom harness built in Indiana by Modern Vintage System. John has been a very good resource on several things with this project and I've been excited to finally get his product into the mix. We purchased the entire harness for the truck from him and with that he modifies the American Autowire harness to eliminate wires unnecessary after the LS swap. He cuts everything to length for your intentions and bundles all the wires going to the Dakota Digital dash. Unfortunately while I was studying the LS harness I came to the realization I was looking at a drive-by-cable harness instead of the drive-by-wire we needed. At the crossroads I thought about just changing the throttle out but I'd already purchased adapter plates, accelerator, TAC module, everything we needed for DBW - so with one call John apologized and said he'd have a us an new engine harness this week and for us to start on the cab wiring... so I did.



The first thing was to modify the firewall for the new fusebox that utilizes modern blade fuses, then route wires to the various switches and install the mounting plate for the Dakota Digital VHX control module.



With the FatMat down I had a clean floor to work on and started installing dash items from the top down. I installed a new wiper motor and the newly upholstered dash pad because those are the things the dash is 'built' around. That also meant cutting the dash for the center A/C vent so I went ahead and drilled the holes for the 2 side vents as well. Thats' a DBW accelerator pedal out of a pu, tahoe, or suburban and with the adapter plate it's placed in the exact position as the old factory pedal. I did away with the clutch from the steering sector.



I popped the buddy buckets in to help me position the Lokar floor shifter for the 4L60E. This is the park position. Drive is a little lower, if you've got your sweetie ridin' next to you then 1 is the place to be. It get's down pretty low to the center seat. If 3 dudes are in there then Drive will have to do. After positioning this and drilling the mounting holes I took it all back out to work in the cab - and those OG covers are Adios very soon....



A few days back I got this in an email from the very kind Mrs. Donna Ford @ Rick's Custom Upholstery in TN. She's the sweetest lady to talk to on the phone - even though I always feel like she's got a 6" PalMal cigarette between her lips and a mason jar of moonshine right by the phone. These are our seat covers. Not an internet stock photo - but ours on their seat blanks in her shop. They arrived this week in a box and I need to get them put on. They're glorious. However, they need to air out a day or so - first, so the wrinkles from shipping can stretch out, second... remember that PalMal cigarette? ask me how I know.



Lastly, remember that ugly rocker from a few posts back? How about this? This is after we split the rocker down the middle of the footwell lengthwise and replaced the rusted out lip that holds the door seal. The original outer rockers we're solid and we didn't want to mess w/ the patina, so we used a cutoff wheel and just cut a patch from a new rocker footwell, welded it in, a little filler after sanding, and then some 514GM Medium Red paint that matches like the BOMB. After a we get through working in the cab I'll bet the scratches and nicks have the patina well on the way to matching excellently.

Slowly, we're getting there. Slowly.

https://instagr.am/p/BjDjj0aAGar
Silvy
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Baller progress
Jrod05
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Anndddd now I'm going to follow your IG awesome progress
Centerpole90
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Miniaturization Beam. Engage.

https://instagr.am/p/BkbNs1Hg2LS
Centerpole90
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Progress. Most of the wiring above goes under the hood but a part of it and the ECU have to go under the dash. To know where the no/no-go areas were we put in the air conditioner unit first. Yesterday we set to pull some wire.

After holding the ECU up a million times at different angles we decided on where we thought it would be best. Everything is a compromise. It's not a certainty that everything will fit in the dash so decided if we had to sacrifice it would be a dash mounted head unit. With that in mind we got out the chop saw and some scrap metal and got to work.



We didn't even wait for the paint to dry good before we went to the drill press.



This is where CPjr made an emergency run to Lowe's because headspace issues...



Once he got back and we could drill behind the dash... success.



Stand on your head long enough and you can't believe how blurry 1/4" bolts & nuts will become. We finally got it though. It's unclear if there is enough depth for a radio and we can't gauge because we don't have on on-hand. Our plan is to finish up the dash wiring, install A/C controls, and then pull all the air conditioner ducting before worrying about it.





A word of warning for anyone LS swapping a vehicle.... Don't accidentally throw away your TAC module and harness. It'll cost you $90 to get another one on eBay and then you'll have an extra accelerator pedal you don't need. Ask me how I know.

https://instagr.am/p/BklmqfygeiP


barney94
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This thing is going to be so badass...
AggieGunslinger
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I am hoping to start on a '52 later this year, it will take years, but my current plan if I run into issues is just to go with a bluetooth adapter straight to the amp and skip the radio since 99% of my music is from Spotify anyway.
Centerpole90
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Thank you barney. I know these updates are overkill and not very exciting for the tiny amount of progress, but each one represents a big hurdle to us. I agonized for weeks over mounting that thing because I try to plan for every contingency -I hate doing things twice (ala our driveline). Someday, though, I'll look back on this thread and it'll be the story of the whole truck from beginning to end. So far the only bolts left un-turned are taking the doors off and removing the front windshield and rear window. Everything else has been disassembled.

I don't know how I let this get so out of hand.
Centerpole90
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AG
If you are talking about a '52 Chevrolet or GMC, there is a cavern under that dash big enough to put a second engine. In fact, the radios that originally came in those trucks were the size of a 10# baby and outweighed one; it was an integral tube unit with the speaker built in. The only thing to 'conflict' with the radio is the mechanism/handle for the center cowl vent. I actually have a brand new in the box modern radio that fits that truck somewhere. I kept it when I sold my '49 for some reason, I need to see if I can find it.

I completely agree with you about Bluetooth and spotify. That is 100% the way we intend to listen to music too. My obsession with trying to shoehorn in an original style headunit is because we've added the A/C I feel like the dash looks funny with a radio delete plate. 'Who orders a pickup w/ AC and skimps on the radio?' kinda thing. I have no problem doing exactly what you intend to do - and that's likely where we end up! post pics of 52


AggieGunslinger
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It is a Chevy, I am going to add air so good to know about the room under the dash. I am still trying to decide on more important things like which motor. LS or LQ, build it myself (I have no idea what I am doing) or buy it. The great thing about the internet is that it there is so much info, the bad thing about the internet is there is so much info.

The truck.runs right now with the straight six but it needs a few mods for me to be okay driving it around town, brakes, move the fuel tank, lights. Once they are complete it will be engine build time then suspension. My goal is to build something that I can drive to Dallas and back for a work trip on a pretty day.
Silvy
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Engine choice depends on how fast you want to go. In a truck as light as yours, a bolt on 5.3 w/ mild cam & decent torque converter will be enough to get you in trouble.
Centerpole90
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This was our last Advanced Design Chevy, a '49. I traded through 3 of them over years upgrading to nicer ones each time. I sold this one to buy a '69 a years ago, but the point is I speak Advanced Design pretty good, so I'd sure love seeing your project. For this truck I built a 261 and took out the 216; it had Offenhauser split manifold and dual 1 bbl carbs. I was into hop-up six cylinder stuff then and with some little glass packs it screamed... it would make a flathead Ford run for cover. I disguised the valve cover and at causal glance it looked just like the 216.

The best mod I ever did to it though was put in a 3.55:1 rear gear from Patrick's Antique Cars That's a closed driveline that you'll do away with when you go V8 - but if you ever have a change of heart and decide to stay with the 6, you would really like that gear. Runs 70mph without breaking a sweat.

 
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