TheOC16 said:

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FTAco07 said:

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My two personal favorites from W&W 2023, neither of which I will likely ever get.

1- VC Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date - still the best blue dial in the game and now with a cool retrograde date and perpetual moon phase with day counter. So freaking beautiful, cool, and more unique than most of the standard Holy Trinity sport watches


2 - Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection SBGZ009 - 38.5mm platinum case and paired to a silver dial. Each case is polished to a distortion-free sheen via the Zaratsu technique, after which it's hand engraved with individual grooves by engravers at the Shinshu Watch Studio. A silver dial in the brand's beautiful birch pattern is joined by 14K white gold, diamond-cut hour markers, plus a handset with curved minute and seconds hands and a minute track that's carved into the dial periphery. It's accurate to an incredible one second per day.

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I agree on the VC.

While that SBGZ009 certainly is a masterpiece in terms of the work that goes in - I just don't know that that detailed engraving is really my style. Certainly impressive in what they accomplished but it's just not for me.

The one they released that I think would have to be stunning in person is the rose gold shunbun (previously a part of their Season Spring Drive collection.)





That subtle pink dial (looks white a lot of the time) has to be a perfect marriage with rose gold. That's what I want out of a dress watch - something that's reserved and elegant under the cuff, but when you expose the dial it's going to blow people away. Add in the sweep of a Spring Drive movement and you've got a stunning timepiece.

Dang it. This complicates things...

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It's in the Elegance Collection now and is only $27,500.

Beautiful watch. I'm a big fan of Grand Seiko and they are on my short list.

Oh my goodness. Wish I could get this.

My 50th is later this year. Originally, I was going to go big and get the Glashutte Senator or the Chronograph Panorama (assuming I can even get one which is likely a pipe dream and never going to happen), however the discretionary budget this year is heavy on house improvements.

Therefore, I'm dropping my budget to about $5,000. What say y'all on your favorites in this range? For context, my current watch collection is quite small. I own a Rolex Milgauss (black face) and a Garmin fenix 5 (I count it since I wear it alot!).

I'm really leaning more dress watch or just not a sports watch or steel bracelet watch just to diversify. I can't seem to get away from wanting a blue watch, so I'm digging the two below as my starting point.

I'm not well versed on movements so not sure how these match up with one another on price point.

Feel free to suggest others!


Longines Master - $2,625


RGM 207-EB - $5,450

5K MSRP or second hand?

Eta Nomos is a strong suggestion. Good chance my next watch will be one of theirs.

Actually had the Nomos on my list and forgot to list it. That's definitely a front runner.

I like the RGM as well and it's made in the USA which appeals to me. Not sure of quality of those though.

I'd rather wear my Seiko Mods than a Nomos

CharlieBrown17 said:

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5K MSRP or second hand?

Eta Nomos is a strong suggestion. Good chance my next watch will be one of theirs.

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$5k either way. I just don't have any experience dealing with second hand market.

YouBet said:

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CharlieBrown17 said:

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5K MSRP or second hand?

Eta Nomos is a strong suggestion. Good chance my next watch will be one of theirs.

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$5k either way. I just don't have any experience dealing with second hand market.

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Color? Style? Use?

In that range I'd personally be looking Tudor, Omega, Breitling, Panerai, Grand Seiko, IWC, Zenith depending on if you are okay with used or have to have new. All of these have varying styles form dive watches to dress watches. If you really want more formal, probably Grand Seiko, IWC, or Zenith. I like watches that can go more dressy or casual so I'd probably lean Tudor, Breitling. More depends on what direction you want to go. Formal events and important client meeting only? Or something that works for that and around the house with jeans as well.

Nomos isn't my thing, but it would also fit this budget.

I'd suggest going to Chrono24 and setting the filter for the dial size and price between $4K and $5K and taking an hour over a cup of coffee and scrolling. Open a word file and copy in images of watches you like and their price. Come back a couple days later and scroll through the word file to whittle it down to 5-10 watches. Then make your choice. Keep in mind Chrono24 prices will be a little cheaper than brick and mortar because of the added fees and shipping.

Also hit up our guy on here with a couple you narrow it down to and see what he can get.

I've had my eyes on these in that range.

Tudor Black Bay 58 529 grey
Should be able to get it under $4K
or
Tudor Pelagos

Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M or Speedmaster
About $4.5K

Breitling Superocean Heritage I or II 42
About $4.5K

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection

It's not a blue dial but do you like the cartier extra flat steel? You can get the santos with blue dial but it's a little more and i like the extra flat better

AgLA06 said:

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YouBet said:

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CharlieBrown17 said:

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5K MSRP or second hand?

Eta Nomos is a strong suggestion. Good chance my next watch will be one of theirs.

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$5k either way. I just don't have any experience dealing with second hand market.

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Color? Style? Use?

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Blue watch that is dressy or isn't a sports watch.

Maybe Nomos is just popular with the crowd that can read

Anyone looking for a Tudor? All come complete set.

This wasn't exactly answering those. Only definite was no steel bracelet which can be swapped on any watch. So not really an answer either. Is sport only dive watches or anything not dressy? The RGM would be considered sporty to many.

"I'm really leaning more dress watch or just not a sports watch or steel bracelet watch just to diversify. I can't seem to get away from wanting a blue watch"

https://chrono24.app/omega/constellation-co-axial-master-chronometer-13133412103001-belt-not-included--id27993284.htm?SETLANG=en_US&SETCURR=USD

Though this particular listing would ship without the strap I believe since it's crocodile and it looks like the seller doesn't want to bother with CITE paperwork.

YouBet said:

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CharlieBrown17 said:

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5K MSRP or second hand?

Eta Nomos is a strong suggestion. Good chance my next watch will be one of theirs.

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$5k either way. I just don't have any experience dealing with second hand market.

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I or FTAC2011 (he's got more clout) can definitely help you out with the second hand market.

My first three luxury watch purchases were new watches, but knowing what I know now I can say I will probably never again buy a brand new watch for my personal collection, unless it's Rolex or some very special occasion.

Having had double digit pre-owned watches come through in the past year I can say that for me, the only value of buying a brand new watch is the enjoyment of having an AD salesman schmooze you for a half hour, sit in some fancy sitting area and maybe have a cocktail. If that's worth however many extra thousands to you I totally get that. But I'm not at a financial level where that's where I'm going to put my extra thousands.

Just wear a nice or interesting watch into an AD on a slow day and you can get the same 30 minutes of attention.

Then let someone else take the hit on buying new.

I genuinely feel guilty walking into an AD trying on watches to see what I'd consider buying on the second hand market. I just hate to waste someone's time if I have not intention of buying one, or give the indication that I might be a buyer when I know I'm not.

TheOC16 said:

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I genuinely feel guilty walking into an AD trying on watches to see what I'd consider buying on the second hand market. I just hate to waste someone's time if I have not intention of buying one, or give the indication that I might be a buyer when I know I'm not.

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Sure. But they'd actually have to have something available to buy and be willing to sell it to you for that to be a problem.

Either you utilize their time or they're spending the time on their phones wasting their own time.

Irish 2.0 said:

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Either you utilize their time or they're spending the time on their phones wasting their own time.

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And there's no chance they convert a walk in to a sale if there's no walk ins.

Plus I'll still need whatever I own serviced, if you're cool and willing to talk watches you have my business with that.

I'll play with a quick scan of Chrono24 for non diver and blue.

https://www.chrono24.com/omega/omega-de-ville-prestige--id25309885.htm or https://www.chrono24.com/omega/de-ville-prestige-coaxial-chronometer-power-reser-42413402106002--id9443686.htm

https://www.chrono24.com/omega/omega-43113425103001---de-ville-co-axial-chronograph-42mm-automatic-blue-dial-mens-watch--id22131099.htm

https://www.chrono24.com/montblanc/star-legacy-full-calendar-119955--id26609479.htm

https://www.chrono24.com/grandseiko/grand-seiko-grand-seiko-gmt-limited-edition-hodinkee--id25972153.htm

https://www.chrono24.com/zenith/elite-032272615051c700--id27422871.htm

https://www.chrono24.com/cartier/ronde-solo-xl-42mm-wsrn0023-stainless-steel-mens-watch--id27594786.htm

https://www.chrono24.com/breitling/breitling-premier-chronograph-42--id27325091.htm

TheOC16 said:

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I have (what seems like) a somewhat against the grain opinion - I don't mind the power reserve indicator on Grand Seiko's dials on their "sports" models. I don't like it as much on what I'd consider a dress watch, but if that doesn't bother you and the light blue speaks to you, since we were discussing GS, you might look at this one:





I have seen it used within your budget. You might have to be patient to find one come around at that price though.

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I love this watch.

Thanks to everyone for responses. I'll check out some of these links over the weekend and come back with an updated candidate list.

https://feldmarwatch.com/product/alpina/alpiner/extreme-regulator-automatic/?utm_source=Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Just+In%3A+This+Week+s+Hot+Watches&utm_campaign=Hot+List+130

what do you guys think about this? I like Alpina, I like the dial and I think the satin finish to the minute and seconds hand looks nice, but it doesn't seem to work together.

I agree on the Grand Seiko. Very very nice watch

I tend to agree.... looks a little too busy or too much for me.

Horribly balanced.

I like some of their pilot watches and chronos but that's pretty rough.

looks like a wannabe Nautilus.

Damn, that's pretty.


I want that, with the blue face.

I can make that happen