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Finally Climbed Guadalupe Peak

3,749 Views | 43 Replies | Last: 2 hrs ago by milner79
Windy City Ag
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This hike has been on my bucket list for awhile so me and a few guys scaled it this weekend. We came in from El Paso and stayed the night in Carlsbad prior. They have a strange kink in the time zone out that way with El Paso and all of New Mexico being on Mountain Time but the National Park itself being in Central time. Just an FYI for anyone heading there as it can screw up your start times.

The drive in from El Paso is just absolutely beautiful. The ranges start well before the park and you find yourself just taking in the beautiful backdrop as you drive in.





We hit the trail at 8 the next morning, which was actually 7 per the time zone change. I was warned about the leg burning nature of the first third of the hike and it is really true. The switchbacks are very steep and just go on and on and on and are rather repetitive. The view of the parking lot keeps getting smaller while you repeat the same process over and over and over again. Also. it is not the cleanest of trails. The grade is pretty steep already and you have to step up over rocks that can be a foot or more in height.







But eventually (mercifully) you get to the flatter stretch that is marked by more of an evergreen forest and much more trail room. My buddies and I were observing that there is no way to even take a piss much less a deuce if you had to on the trail. There were decent crowds and no private space whatsoever. This changed on the wooded section which still was primarily a climb but at least had flatter stretches. This section had what I considered probably the most dangerous conditions as you would be humming along and then step by a sheer drop of 300 feet with little warning.





Eventually the flatter forested stretch gives way to a bridge over a very steep gorge and then a bend around the lower mountain peak. You reach the camping site for the mountain and past that you start the final ascent to the top. This is the turn back point from what I was told by the folks on the trail as there is a deceptive lower peak that blots out the actual peak and you think you are there and then learn you have another hour or so to go.

That last hour was actually the most challenging for me as I was starting to get tired and the trail kind of vanishes and gives way to just tricky, slippery rock that you have to climb up. There is also a final stretch to the top where you lean against a rock wall with a really sheer drop to your left. It did not seem alarming at the time but looking at photos later I realized that it was something I should have paid a lot more attention to. The actual peak surprises you. You are wondering when you will get there and then your turn a corner and the steel pyramid is right there.





The bummer was that cloud cover was ruining the view from the top in every direction when we reached the summit but thank the Good Lord that the clouds burned off about a minute before we started to head back and we got to see that iconic view of El Capitan from the peak.





And going back I got to see much of the beautiful backdrops that were shrouded by the clouds on the way up.





We made much, much better time going back down but then we hit the damnable switchbacks and that really stretched out the last few miles back to the finish line. I have pretty weak ankles and had to focus to make sure I didn't roll one or both of them. Also, those foot high rocks mentioned stepping over coming up meant jumping down and after about a hundred of those jumps my lower back started really yelling at me.

The various profiles I read before the hike painted a fairly accurate picture of the trail with the exception of the last mile or so. I initially thought he 6-8 hour time range estimate for the hike seemed way too long, but we indeed finished it in 6 hours and 30 minutes. There are too many obstacles to just burn through the thing, from crowded and narrow stretches of the trail to the necessity of going pretty slow on the downhill stretch of the switchbacks to avoid hurting yourself.

We each packed a gallon of water and we drank it all through the hike. There were a ton of day trippers trying to walk the thing with no water and tennis shoes and most everyone of them ended up turning back. It is doable hike for sure if you take your time and take breaks, but it is also a challenging leg burner that is not for the couch potato just out to try something.

So that is that . . .bucket list item crossed out and I would encourage everyone to do this for the sheer beauty out that way.







BreNayPop
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AG
It's a great hike! I try to do it every year. Should've stayed and done mckittrick canyon in the fall- color change is gorgeous
Windy City Ag
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I did McKittrick and took in Carlsbad Caverns as well. It is really cool out that way.

By the way, no one told me you have to walk down 75 floors to get to the caverns. That was more leg burning after a pretty long day.
BreNayPop
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Yeah… hot mid summer is the time to do the caverns and that walk. Although bat flights at night are awesome if you stayed for that!
MouthBQ98
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Pretty cool up there, isn't it?

Been to the top twice. I think next time weather permitting I am going up either early and watching sunrise or in the afternoon and watching sunset. If you are familiar with the trail it's nothing to hike it with a headlamp.
bobeag
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Congratulations! I did GDP last October with three buddies from the Class of '70. I have run 16 marathons but this was the hardest thing I have ever done. The strange thing is that the trail peters out before the summit.

The downhill/switchbacks were challenging.

Glad we did it.

We just did four hikes in Big Bend. Spectacular!
AggieOO
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i love the guads. I've done a decent amount of (ultra running) training in those mountains. If you get a chance and can get back into the bowl, its pretty incredible. I prefer that part of the park over the peak trail. Only time I've ever seen a mountain lion was in the backcountry in GMNP.

And yes, the park is technically central time, but they just observe mountain time. Or at least they have every time i've been out there. Its been a couple years at this point since I've been, so maybe its changed.
DVM97
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I made the hike about 4 years ago with my son on a scout trip. Damn hardest thing I've ever done as we camped so we had 40# on our back most of the way up. Beautiful view for sure. I'd consider doing it again.

DVM
SanAntoneAg
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Definitely worth doing that hike at least once. I packed crocs and wore them for the ascent, they were wonderful.
Gig 'em! '90
Matsui
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Awesome review. Thank you for sharing this.
Naveronski
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Congrats OP! It's definitely not an easy hike but not many make it to the highest point in Texas!


suburban cowboy
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this is a super easy hike, no?

what's the total mileage and elevation? how long to go up and then down?
Hearne_Ag
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It's beautiful, if you haven't backpacked Big Bend that should be on your list as well!

Naveronski
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I tracked:
8.73mi
3,665' ascent
Almost 6 hours, including waiting for the sun to come up.
2,343 calories burned
suburban cowboy
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What were your relative splits on the ascend/descend?
GIJOE
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One of the more strenuous hikes I have made. But well worth it
Windy City Ag
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One thing I forgot to add is that the Park Service has established somehow a pretty strong cellular signal at the very peak so you can face time or video call your family and friends to share the view. That was a pretty great.

We had no signal the entire way up until that point.
Hearne_Ag
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Windy City Ag said:

One thing I forgot to add is that the Park Service has established somehow a pretty strong cellular signal at the very peak so you can face time or video call your family and friends to share the view. That was a pretty great.

We had no signal the entire way up until that point.
Yup I was able to FaceTime my family back in 2019 from up there.
Naveronski
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suburban cowboy said:

What were your relative splits on the ascend/descend?

Don't have exact, but here's the elevation v time graph.


Hearne_Ag
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I did 6 hours up 4 hours down, and that was in decent physical shape!
Burdizzo
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Did this hike about 30 years ago. It should be on the bucket list for all Texans.

I thought we were making decent time until a couple of German army guys on vacation blew past us. There was not an ounce of fat on them, and they were almost jogging. Impressive.

I found out how important good shoes are. On the hike back down my big toe was repeatedly getting pushed into the front of my shoe. About a week after getting home my toenail came off.
AZAG08
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Burdizzo said:

I thought we were making decent time until a couple of German army guys on vacation blew past us. There was not an ounce of fat on them, and they were almost jogging. Impressive.


Been on hikes where I felt like I was doing OK, pretty tired but making progress, only to have a trail runner sprint past me and then see them go back down and up again...its humbling
AgEng06
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AZAG08 said:

Burdizzo said:

I thought we were making decent time until a couple of German army guys on vacation blew past us. There was not an ounce of fat on them, and they were almost jogging. Impressive.


Been on hikes where I felt like I was doing OK, pretty tired but making progress, only to have a trail runner sprint past me and then see them go back down and up again...its humbling
I hiked Pike's Peak (up and down) on Labor Day. There were a number of trail runners that apparently drive/ride to the top and then run the top 3-4 miles back and forth for training. We got passed by some of them multiple times as we finished the last few miles on the way up and they were running "laps" up and down.
MouthBQ98
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It's fairly steep of a climb in sections but isn't that bad.

Last year I did Mckittrick canyon to the hunter's shack past the grotto and back in the morning, then drive back over to Pine Springs and had a lunch, then hiked to the peak and back in the afternoon. Started about 1:30 and was back down before dusk.

I was moving, though, I think I stopped to rest maybe 3 times for a few minutes each way. On the way down I was racing a thunderstorm and lightning for the last couple of miles.

This was 7 months after my ACL/meniscus surgery so I couldn't really go any faster but I was going steady at a brisk walk both ways.
AgGrad99
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Quote:

Eventually the flatter forested stretch gives way to a bridge over a very steep gorge
Do you happen to have a picture of the bridge?
Hearne_Ag
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AgGrad99 said:


Quote:

Eventually the flatter forested stretch gives way to a bridge over a very steep gorge
Do you happen to have a picture of the bridge?
I have some from 2019




AgGrad99
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Thanks. I thought that was the one.

I havent done that hike yet, but want too soon, and have scouted it out. Im a chicken when it comes to heights...and that bridge will be the one part I'll want over quickly
Windy City Ag
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The bridge was not really that cringe inducing. It is hard to see over the side when crossing.

There is a stretch just before the summit that will give you pause. It is a narrow crossing with a steep drop off to the side that makes you lean on the rocks to get over.

Check the 6:57 mark of this video to see.

AggieOO
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AZAG08 said:

Burdizzo said:

I thought we were making decent time until a couple of German army guys on vacation blew past us. There was not an ounce of fat on them, and they were almost jogging. Impressive.


Been on hikes where I felt like I was doing OK, pretty tired but making progress, only to have a trail runner sprint past me and then see them go back down and up again...its humbling
As one of those trail runners. Don't sweat it. We are all out there for different reasons. The fact that you are simply out there doing it is what matters.

And even as one of those trail runners, I feel the same way when I'm hiking and someone blows by me. I was huffing and puffing up Wheeler Peak at about 11K ft and some girl blew by me running up. I still felt humbled. I've run up/down guadalupe peak and I've hiked it multiple times. Its not easy running or hiking.
AgGrad99
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Windy City Ag said:

The bridge was not really that cringe inducing. It is hard to see over the side when crossing.

There is a stretch just before the summit that will give you pause. It is a narrow crossing with a steep drop off to the side that makes you lean on the rocks to get over.

Check the 6:57 mark of this video to see.

Yep! That'll do it.
AggieOO
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AgGrad99 said:

Windy City Ag said:

The bridge was not really that cringe inducing. It is hard to see over the side when crossing.

There is a stretch just before the summit that will give you pause. It is a narrow crossing with a steep drop off to the side that makes you lean on the rocks to get over.

Check the 6:57 mark of this video to see.

Yep! That'll do it.
my wife has a crazy fear of heights and made it through that without too much trouble. it was a little worse for her on the way down than the way up.
AgGrad99
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Yeah, i'll still do it. I'll just plan ahead for when I poop my pants.
ccard257
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that video makes it look way worse than I remember. I don't recall ever giving a second thought to exposure on that route.
Windy City Ag
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Quote:

that video makes it look way worse than I remember. I don't recall ever giving a second thought to exposure on that route.
I was the same way . . . . .I was looking at the photo someone took of me crossing it and was like "Crap! How did I not see that."

suburban cowboy
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Thanks much!

Just added this to my bucket list.
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