Used to bass fish all the time when we lived in Texas, but moved to GA years ago and just never got really back into it. Even bought and sold a Skeeter while out here...

Anyway, coming back in May to fish Amistad with some guys and wondering what the opinion is on clear water Fluorocarbon versus braid.

Last time, we all fished 25lb power pro, but now they are all talking about going Flouro...Doesn't actually make complete sense to me....

What am I missing?

Fluoro, mono and braid are 3 distinct fishing lines. Mono =/= fluoro.

Mono is nylon and is the standard fishing line the world over. It stretches, it floats, it retains its strength relatively well when nicked. Thicker than braid obviously lb for lb on breaking strength. For bass fishing it is good on moving baits and treble hook lures. Typically preferred on topwater hardbaits. Won't set a hook on a fish as well as braid or fluoro. Handles the best (on baitcasters) in line sizes typically used for bass fishing, but the breaking strength won't be nearly as good as braid.

Fluoro: About the same diameter to breaking strength as mono, but it's typically a little stiffer. Clearer than even mono. Stretch is about right in the middle of mono and braid, making it a good choice if money isn't a concern because it's way more expensive than mono. Typically preferred for deep diving crankbaits and hardbaits that you expect to make long casts on. The sinking can mess with (or desirably change in some cases) topwaters. Also preferred for hook set lures where braid is not desired. It doesn't handle as well as mono, and kinks will make weak spots in the line worse than mono. Has more problems with line breakage at knots than mono. Many of the newer products are getting better all the time with the negatives, and fluoro is most pro fishermen's everyday line.

Braid: Least stretch and by far the strongest for its diameter. The line can be visible in crystal clear water and limit use. The no stretch (and thus sensitivity) can be good for lures that require hooksets and fishing in matted grass where the line has more of a tendency to cut through grass as you're setting hooks or fighting fish. Has tendency to break easier than mono if you're fighting fish over things like shell beds/rocks where rubbing of the line is expected. Knots holding can be problematic. Lowest diameter for its breaking strength, though when you get under about 10 lb test mono diameters, the abrasion issues may keep you from seeing those strength advantages in practice. Some handling considerations, as the line will dig into the spools of casting and spinning gear after you put a decent amount of pressure on the line. Can handle like a dream, but baitcaster backlashes and windnots in spinning gear can be worse than the other 2 lines when you do have issues.

I only ever used it for leaders. It is very low vis in water so there is that but It has some weird casting and abrasion properties.

I use braid on my trolling rods and mono on my casting/spinning rods. I've found it is rare for a fish to be that distracted by the line to a lure or bait but I guess it might make a difference occasionally.

mono and fluoro have good abrasion resistance. fluoro is more clear and supposedly better for pressured fish. mono floats, making is favorable for some topwater presentations. mono is also usually cheapest.

braid has smaller diameter relative to the pound test. makes it easier to cast far. zero stretch so very sensitive. very visible underwater though

i have not been to amistad but i have heard the water is very clear. you could always tie fluorocarbon leaders to your braided line with a uni knot. if you do not need the advantage of far casts, and are fishing heavy cover, fishing straight fluoro will give you advantage of not having to tie an extra leader knot, and give you good abrasion resistance if your fish wraps up the line around cover

good luck

'20

I mostly use braid with flouro shock leaders these days.

I fish Nanofil with a mono shock leader. BUT, I'm fishing saltwater. The sensitivity on the Nanofil is unlike any line I've fished.

I will just conquer on what's been said.
I set up my rods for my baits. Sometimes you want line that stretches so you don't pull the hooks through the mouth.... so I use monofilament.
I use floro when I want a line to sink and/or a bit more feel in finesse fishing.
I use braid for horsing them out in heavy grass or timber or around docks and out of large rock formations.
I still use monofilament more than braid or flouro.

When I was fishing lake Austin back in it's hay day, I only used 20lb fluoro on my bait caster for pitching docks.

I'm more getting into braid backing with fluoro leaders for drop shots on northern bass in Montana. I have a grass rod that is a spooled with 60lb braid.

Things have changed a lot in the last 20 years.

They are all worthless in a lake with zebra mussels. I suspect Amistad has them so inspect your line carefully after the line rubs against anything solid.

This is interesting. I switched to braid about 10 years ago and only fish it for all types of topwaters,jerkbaits, plastics etc inshore saltwater. Never regretted getting away from mono. I can say that we used to miss 40 percent of winter subtle bites on mono when fishing deep in wind.

I would say that if you really haven't fished the other lines then just stick with the mono and you'll be fine. Having said that I still use mono for rattle traps, crankbait, spinnerbaits and topwater. I used to use a lot of braid for worm/jig fishing as I hated some of the properties of fluorocarbon and I still caught a lot of fish on the braid. I recently in the last year or so have been using Seagar invisix fluorocarbon and it does reasonably well on the things I used to hate about fluorocarbon. For what it's worth every double digit fish I've ever caught including a 15.45 pound bass all came on good old fashioned stren monofilament line. And all but two of those fish were on Texas rigged worms.

MouthBQ98 said:

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I use braid on my trolling rods and mono on my casting/spinning rods. .

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I think you have this backwards…

Braid on everything and a floro leader on the end.

Like a lot of these outdoors things.....it's going to come down to personal preference. Some say certain applications need certain line (i.e. topwaters use mono) and there's some truth in each. But it all boils down to what are you most effective and comfortable with.

For both bass fishing and saltwater fishing I've tried it all....mono only, fluoro only, braid only, braid and fluoro leader and used those from topwaters to cranking to finesse fishing both salt and fresh.

what I've settled on is mono backing on reel then braid. The only change I add is if I'm finesse fishing in freshwater I'll use fluorocarbon LEADER...not just fluoro line but actual LEADER specific line.

And another key factor is matching the rod to the fishing application. I'm not someone who believes you need 20 different rods like the big time bass dudes do. The weekend fisherman is likely going to do just as well with 3 rods as 20. If finesse fishing it's important to have one that gives you great feel.

Then you can boil it down to what reel features for each application. But again, is it going to make THAT much difference for a weekend warrior? Depends on how much time you spend fishing. I've gotten to the point where I understand what I'm able to do with braid amongst the different techniques. For example, with topwater and no stretch braid I've learned how to work it so the lure has appropriate action. Then when setting hook I know I need to give fish just an extra second with the lure in its mouth and then I don't have to hammer the hookset like I might with texas rig in 20 feet of water.

Back to your original question since I didn't really answer the question, I think a lot depends on what you plan to be using. If it's just general weightless plastics, Texas rigs, Carolina rigs, dropshots, normal cranks, spinners, and top waters, and you're comfortable with braid, there's no big reason to change.

Now if you throw things like Alabama Rigs, I'd want heavier braid than 25 lb. (I like 65-80 personally for A-rigs, because if you get snagged you wanna break some **** deep down to get the bulk of your rig back). And if you're throwing big swim baits or glide baits I'd prefer 20-25 lb fluoro.

But, this is America, and we can have it all…

I'd be going there with rods rigged with:

12 lb mono (smaller topwater)
15 lb mono (treble hook lures fished around a little wood)
20 lb mono (spinnerbaits in any timber, larger topwater lures)
14 lb fluoro (mid cranks fished in mainly open water)
17 lb fluoro (10-12 ft deep cranks or jerkbaits)
20lb flouro (deep cranks)
25 lb fluoro (swim baits)
40 lb braid (weightless plastics, Texas rigs, jigs, Carolina rig main line, drop shots)
60-80 lb braid (heavy cover flipping, A-rigs)

It's interesting the differences in just being out of the game for a while. Once I fished power pro for the first time, I loaded it on everything and fished it on everything. It was like throwing dental floss and aside from it being a bit of a PITA(cutting, binding down after a fight, etc) it casts well and seems pretty invisible.

Like someone mentioned above, I've caught 10# fish on mono when we fished Comadero many years ago.

Not sure what we'll be throwing yet. Likely mostly soft plastics and spinners. Maybe crank a bit, but generally, that's just a change of pace for us.

Just fish what you are used to and you'll be fine. Sometimes we get too hung up on the "invisibility" of our fishing line I think. I mean there are big honking treble hooks hanging off a lure that are clearly visible and the fish will bite it anyways.

1990AG said:

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Not sure what we'll be throwing yet. Likely mostly soft plastics and spinners. Maybe crank a bit, but generally, that's just a change of pace for us.

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On Amistad, I use fluorocarbon line for soft plastics, spinnerbaits (assume that's what you mean by "spinners") and cranking. The water is quite clear in most parts of the reservoir. Good luck.

Nope. I use very heavy braid top shots. Thin braid doesn't like abrasion, but heavy braid does OK. I like how braid works as a top shot and it's much less likely to break off larger lures or trolling planes, without having ridiculous diameters, and easier to work snags loose with the heavy braid, like 50-65lb braid. You can bend open hung hooks with it.

1990AG said:

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It's interesting the differences in just being out of the game for a while. Once I fished power pro for the first time, I loaded it on everything and fished it on everything. It was like throwing dental floss and aside from it being a bit of a PITA(cutting, binding down after a fight, etc) it casts well and seems pretty invisible.

Like someone mentioned above, I've caught 10# fish on mono when we fished Comadero many years ago.

Not sure what we'll be throwing yet. Likely mostly soft plastics and spinners. Maybe crank a bit, but generally, that's just a change of pace for us.

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We switched to 30lb braid in the 8 strand, and it doesn't bind up on the next cast after a fight. You also need to make sure that they spool it on under tension when it is being loaded on the spool. I used to stand on a phone book with the line between my feet inside the phone book. About my only complaint with braid, and I fish it with topwater, subsurface plugs, plastics, and everything in between, is that on a really windy day, it has a tendency to get wrapped around my rod tip, when I am working very high in the water column. That is probably because I am using very limp Power Pro Super Slick V2 and on occasion I am pausing my retrieve to mess with the ipilot etc. I love the sensitivity so I deal with it some, but I am going to experiment with suffix 832 and see if it is less prone to getting around the rod tip. I can't imagine ever fishing with mono again. No need for that.....

Amistad is very clear water, go with 10lb mono.
Stop by Kerlens bait shop on the way. pick you up a pack of zoom super fluke in the sungill color and Texas Rig it, or order online, as this pattern is not typically sold in stores.

Also take you a a few shad colored crank baits with with the yellow stripe in both shallow and deep diving versions.

Work up all the way in the coves.

tight lines!

Aggieangler93 said:

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1990AG said:

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It's interesting the differences in just being out of the game for a while. Once I fished power pro for the first time, I loaded it on everything and fished it on everything. It was like throwing dental floss and aside from it being a bit of a PITA(cutting, binding down after a fight, etc) it casts well and seems pretty invisible.

Like someone mentioned above, I've caught 10# fish on mono when we fished Comadero many years ago.

Not sure what we'll be throwing yet. Likely mostly soft plastics and spinners. Maybe crank a bit, but generally, that's just a change of pace for us.

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We switched to 30lb braid in the 8 strand, and it doesn't bind up on the next cast after a fight. You also need to make sure that they spool it on under tension when it is being loaded on the spool. I used to stand on a phone book with the line between my feet inside the phone book. About my only complaint with braid, and I fish it with topwater, subsurface plugs, plastics, and everything in between, is that on a really windy day, it has a tendency to get wrapped around my rod tip, when I am working very high in the water column. That is probably because I am using very limp Power Pro Super Slick V2 and on occasion I am pausing my retrieve to mess with the ipilot etc. I love the sensitivity so I deal with it some, but I am going to experiment with suffix 832 and see if it is less prone to getting around the rod tip. I can't imagine ever fishing with mono again. No need for that.....

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A couple of thoughts here as i fish braid just like you. I use suffix 832 exclusively. I have the same issues you do with it getting around the rod tip. Although it doesn't take much for me to just quickly undo it by half rolling the rod with a slight little bounce.
As for getting it spooled on tight. I have found the easiest thing to do is to just go ahead and spool it on with a little tension. Then I go outside and tie the line onto a light post and then open the bail and walk until I pretty much pull myself then I set the drag accordingly and reel all the line back on. Gets it nice and tight